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“We’re heading to Beinn Udlamain for an overnight camp on Saturday, do you fancy it?” My mate Monty had messaged me with an invite and I’d been itching to get out. I enjoy a bit of company on the hills andwas up for it, even though I was nightshift the night before. I would get a break during the night and it would be a later start, and as Monty was kind enough to drive I could relax on the way north, so I said yes. I prepped my gear and looked forward to the trip. I had done these hills before, both solo and with Glasgow HF. I’d visited in summer and winter, but always as day walks, and had never camped here. Both Monty and his friend Gaz have Youtube channels and do like to push themselves and their gear to their limits – often in pretty extreme weather, so I did wonder if I and my gear would be up for the challenge.
The first fly in the ointment came on Friday night, when one of my workmate called off sick, and with no one to cover their shift I’d now be working 12 hours without a break. Not a great start. Still, I felt up for it, and next morning saw me rush home, shower and change and wait for Monty to collect me. We had just set off when Monty realised he had left his sleeping mat – which meant diverting back to his house to collect it. We finally hit the road and the journey up the A9 was relaxing, but I didn’t nod off as I’d hoped, and we arrived at the cap park at Balsporran Cottage to see no sign of Gaz. A quick check back on Whatsapp messages showed he was actually parked at Drumochter. We about turned and headed back down the A9 again. Having finally linked up with Gaz, we grabbed our gear and got ready to depart. It was here that Monty discovered that he had left his boots at home! It was looking like it was not going to his day…
Not this bridge…
This one!
Getting the start of the walk right can make or break a walk, and after a bit of confusion as to how to get under the railway line (as opposed to over it) we found the right bridge and were soon rounding the Sow of Atholl and heading up Coire Dhomain. We were following a route from Walk Highlands, and after around 3km we began ascending the west side of the burn. Weighed down with gear for an overnight camp, this was a bit of a slog and we were glad to finally to breach the slope and emerge on to the wind battered flatter ground above Fraoch Coire. Looking westwards we caught sight of the great hulk of Ben Alder looming over Loch Pattack, and a slim section of Loch Ericht, with it’s great granite lodge tucked in to the shore. The wind was relentless and before the chill took it’s toll we were on the move, ascending again, into the grey gloom.
Coire Dhomain
Loch Pattack
Soon we were upon the cairn, as always accompanied by the twisted remnants of olf fence-posts. We tucked in against the stones to gain respite from the wind, taking the opportunity to grab a bite to eat, before bracing ourselves for the next leg. We went south. following the line of an old fence, before deviating down into Carn ‘Ic Loumhaidh. By this time Monty was in pain with a few strains and for him it was a slow and unpleasant descent, followed by a slow and unpleasant ascent. I could only sympathise. I’ve been there. It was a relief to finally see the trig point on top of Sgairneach Mhor. Visibility was still poor, which probably accounted for the fright a lone walker got as two Youtubers armed with cameras caused him to launch himself skywards from his sheltered spot tucked in against the trig point!
The Descent to Carn ‘Ic Loumhaidh.
Our Campsite above Coire Creagach
The top of Sgairneach Mhor is fairly flat and we surprised to find how easily it took a peg. We had thought we would have struggled, but the tents were pitched quickly, despite the tearing wind. I was thankful that I had some assistance though, and was soon ensconsed inside, listening to the wind battering outside. I prepared my gear for the night, ditching wet gear for dry, hanging my lantern and having a hot drink. The day however had taken it’s toll. A 12 hour nightshift plus commute, the trip here, ascending two Munros and a lack of sleep finally caught up with me, and I was quickly out like a light, even though it was just past 6pm. I awoke briefly at 1am and then slept through again until sun-up, where I was rewarded with cleared skies; I watched as red lights slowly crawled northwards on the A9 towards Dalwhinnie, before getting out of the tent to explore. We were pitched just metres from the lip of the corrie, and around 30 metres from the trig point. Gaz joined me there and we spent some time playing “spot-the-summit” with the far-off peaks of Glencoe.
The Black Mount and Rannoch Moor
Homeward Bound
Bridge over the Allt Coire Dhomhain
My Firepot dehydrated breakfast was disappointing and I crunched through it for the sake of warmth and energy. We were soon packed up, and with a bitter wind battering us there was no reason to linger. A sweep of the area confirmed we had left nothing behind, and we set off down the wide ridge towards the Sow of Atholl. The night’s rest had not helped Monty, and he soldiered on, clearly in pain, down the heathery slopes, across the bridge over the Allt Coire Dhomhain, and back to the car. For me, I had enjoyed it thoroughly, even though I was absolutely knackered at times. I really need to thank Monty and Gaz, whose online content has inspired me to get back outdoors more often than I had of late, and has kept me entertained in between those times. There may be more to come, who can tell?
