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The secret is out: for a day trip to the Fisherfields, the path from the destitution road along Loch a' Bhraoin is hard to beat. It would be possible to climb four of the Fisherfield Six, from Beinn Tarsuinn to Beinn a' Chlaidheimh, or to tackle a smaller round, perhaps by climbing Sgùrr Ban via its excellent eastern slabs. But I wanted to tackle the Mullach's east ridge -- two scrambles, the first up the buttress of Tom an Fhiodha, and the second along the ridge of Sgùrr Dubh. The route is given two stars in Highland Scrambles North. It would mean skipping Beinn Tarsuinn. But having seen that peak from the Mullach, I think it might be worth saving for a special trip, perhaps exploring a route up the buttress of Creag Glas Mhòr, or climbing its impressive northern cliffs.
I was following in the footsteps of "past my sell by date", in his excellent report "East ridge of the Mullach"
(
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?t=43303 ), the only differences being the weather and the fact that I was going to
try to follow the Highland Scrambles route up Tom an Fhiodha.
1st September 2022 was perfect climbing weather. Warm, sunny, but with a pleasant breeze that kept the midges away in the morning. I set out around 8am from the destitution road where my partner kindly dropped me, and made quick progress along the excellent new track to Lochivraon (built a little higher up from the loch than the path shown on the OS map). The western Fannichs looked particularly inviting, and Slioch was clearly visible peeking over the hills at the end of Loch a' Bhraoin.
- The glen below Sgùrr nan Clach Geala
- Slioch in the distance
- A'Chailleach
There were a few bikes chained up at the lodge; I was to meet their owners later on. Beyond Lochivraon, the path becomes a bit boggier (although it is still easy to follow). As I rounded Creag Ruigh à Bhràghad, the cliffs of Tom an Fhiodha came into view, followed by the sparkling quartzite summit of Sgùrr Bàn. The top of the Mullach remained hidden for later.
- Tom a Fhiodha, Sgùrr Dubh and Sgùrr Bàn
I had taken some pictures on my phone of the scrambling route up Tom an Fhiodha from the new edition of Highland Scrambles North. But when I arrived under the cliff, I couldn't see where the intended route was supposed to go. The diagram from the old edition of the book is probably easier to use. Looking back at my photographs, the proper route is now clear. But I started too far to the left. The "official" route is shown in red below; my route is in orange.
- Red route (from the book); my route shown in orange
The route on the left involved quite a bit of walking up steep, heathery slopes. I can't say I enjoyed it; my legs were tired from climbing the Beinn Dearg four plus Am Faochagach a couple of days previously. It would have been possible to follow it with minimal scrambling, but I diverted to any bits of outcrop I could see. In fact, I think I ended up doing some harder climbs than would have been involved had I found the right line from the beginning. Certainly I remember thinking about how far away I was from help as I climbed an especially smooth rock face. Later on I met the intended route, but didn't divert to the left at the top. The easy slabs leading to the summit looked too inviting.
The pictures below may give a sense of the climb. Although tiring, it gave some superb views of the valley floor below and the path I had taken to walk in.
- Optional outcrop
- Slabbier scrambling near the top
- Loch an Nid, with An Teallach behind
- The valley floor below
The gradient eases considerably at the top of Tom an Fhiodha. There's no path, but it's a pleasant walk along short grass and stones. I headed north to the line of cliffs leading up to Sgùrr Dubh. They're well worth a look if you have a head for heights.
- Along the ridge to the Sgùrr Dubh cliffs
- Pinnacle at the end of the cliffs
- Looking back to the top of Tom an Fhiodha
- The side of the Sgùrr Dubh ridge.
I'd possibly missed the best bit of the scramble up Tom an Fhiodha, but the Sgùrr Dubh ridge by itself makes this route worthwhile. It feels similar to the Aonach Eagach, although considerably shorter.
- The ridge
- Looking back at the end of the ridge
- Meall Garbh, with Beinn Tarsuinn coming into view. Slioch in the background.
I've seen Fisherfield before on a sunny day, both from the top of An Teallach and from the top of Slioch and it is undoubtedly one of the most spectacular sights in Scotland. Even so, I wasn't prepared for just how good the views from the top of the Mullach would be.
- Beinn Tarsuinn
- Zoomed in. Gah! What a peak. One day, I'm climbing it from this side. And from every side.
- Beinn Lair and A'Mhaighdean. On my hit-list for 2023.
- Glenn na Muice
- The ridge I ascended
The descent down the Mullach is very steep, so much so that it is hard to keep from slipping. I was glad not to be climbing it. But at the bealach between the Mullach and Sgùrr Bàn, I met Fife Flyer and companions (who turned out to be the owners of the bikes left at Lochivraon) doing a round from Sgùrr Bàn to Beinn Tarsuinn. (Their report:
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=114583 ) Speaking of Beinn Tarsuinn, the views continued to be excellent. I really should find a route up this side of the mountain.
- Beinn Tarsuinn again
- More Beinn Tarsuinn
The climb up Sgùrr Bàn from this direction is relatively easy. The top of the mountain is covered in white quartzite boulders, but they are small and compacted at the top (in contrast to those on the descent). The views were again superb, although not quite as good as on the Mullach.
- The Mullach and the Sgùrr Dubh ridge
- An Teallach and Beinn a' Chlaidheimh over the Sgùrr Bàn boulder-field
The descent to the bealach with Beinn a' Chlaidheimh is increasingly difficult. The small, compacted boulders become larger, looser boulders, although they're admittedly beautiful in the sun.
Additionally, the further one gets towards Beinn a' Chliadhiemh, the better the view of Beinn Dearg Mòr becomes. I remember being unable to look away from its north face from the top of An Teallach. It turns out its south and east sides are just as impressive. I think it may be the best looking mountain in Scotland. Here are an annoyingly large number of photos of it. If I could upload more than 40 pictures in total, there would be more of Beinn Dearg Mòr.
- Beinn Dearg Mòr
- Zoomed
- Loch Beinn Dearg and Loch na Sealga now visible
- And again
- Wider shot
The climb up Beinn a' Chliadhiemh would have been straightforward, were my legs not already spent. I made what pace I could, and spent a while visiting all of its summits, enjoying the views of Fisherfield.
- Looking back at Sgùrr Bàn
- Crazy rock architecture
- Gleann na Muice with the Torridon peaks behind
- An Teallach and Beinn a' Chlaidheimh
The descent from Beinn a' Chliadhiemh to the east is surprisingly easy. Return to the smaller bealach below the summit (rather than the main bealach with Sgùrr Bàn) and head off east down the mountain's steep, but grassy and easily manageable, flank. I perhaps made the descent a little harder than it needed to be by veering south to get a better look at the (north-east) slabs below Sgùrr Bàn. They are steeper but probably more impressive than the south-east slabs often used as an ascent route. I took a photo from the path in the valley (see below). The lower slopes are rockier and heatherier, although easier ground than many slopes one encounters in the Cairngorms. I hopped across the Abhainn Loch an Nid on rocks, refilled my water bottles and trudged on up the obvious path in the valley.
- Grassy descent from Beinn a' Chlaidheimh
- The north-east Sgùrr Bàn slabs which no one climbs.
- An Teallach and Beinn a' Chlaidheimh above Loch an Nid
At the head of the valley, where the path turns towards Lochivraon, I passed Fife Flyer and others, who'd finished their alternative round of three peaks. They caught me on their bikes just as I was reaching the destitution road. I had been spurred on along the path by the lake by the appearance of midges as the wind had dropped. I risked stopping for a few last photos, however, before escaping to my waiting car and patient partner.
- The Fannichs in the evening sun
- Looking back along the route out
The Fisherfield Six may be a classic walk, but I wonder whether it is not more worthwhile to break the peaks into chunks. Time will tell; I'm planning to tackle A'Mhaighdean from Poolewe next year, exploring the north-west ridge, and maybe Red Slab and Beinn Tharsuinn Chaol as well. Or I might take a run at Kids' Ridge to the south instead. Or both. Let's see.
