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I didn't have my Grey Corries very well organised. Most people do the main ridge with either Stob Ban or Sgurr Choinnich Mor tagged on. Or if they're super fit like gld73 they do all four together. Not me. I did Stob Ban and Stob Choire Claurigh together, then Sgurr Choinnich Mor from Glen Nevis, leaving Stob Coire an Laoigh high and dry in the middle. In my report on Sgurr Choinnich Mor I wondered if I'd be better approaching my last Grey Corrie from the pot-holed Corriechoille track or from Glen Nevis. Sunset tripper came up with another option. He suggested taking the minor road a bit south of Spean Bridge, opposite the road to Highbridge, which ends at a small car park from where tracks head into the Leanachan forest.
28th August 2021
His suggestion looked good. It meant a shorter drive than the other two options and no pot-holes on the approach road. So I rounded up a few pals who like an adventure. Ian and Linda had climbed the whole ridge before but not by this route and Alex hadn't previously been on the Grey Corries. They were up for it so on 28th August 2021 we met at the road end and had a choice of which track to take. The one to the left was signed to "The Cour", which looked possible, but the more direct route was straight on, so that's the one we took. It was a gentle start on tarmac with fields on either side, low lying mist and hills appearing just enough to get our juices going.
Morning mist
Between Ian's sat nav and the paper map we picked out a route on paths which would take us to join the WH descent route from the Grey Corries ridge. What the map didn't show was that these paths are little used and overgrown. We started on easy ground between tall pines but the way became increasingly uneven and jungle-like. It was meant to be a cycle route but didn't seem much like it. I doubt many humans on bike or otherwise had recently passed through and ticks would have lived entirely on deer and rabbit blood until we happened along! Between us we notched up a fair number.
About to enter Leanachan forest - let the commando training commence!
Where we spilled out with log left to mark the spot for our return
We crossed over that track and went off piste a second time, aiming for the track that would connect us with the WH route.
River Cour crossing - or one of its tributaries
By the time we eventually stood at the sign pointing up the firebreak to the Grey Corries we agreed we'd find another way back to the car, even if it was a longer distance. We were hot and bothered already before the climb had started so decided to moderate the plan. I think Ian might have gone on but the women were agreed we should stay on the track we were on as far as the Cour waterfall. Knowing the Cour was signed from where we had parked we could then follow the signs all the way back to the car. The pressure off we had a relaxed walk to the dam, sat in the sun for lunch and returned by following the Cour signs in reverse. It covered a longer distance than our outward route but was much easier underfoot and we now knew the way for the next time.
On dam wall near Cour waterfall
28th May 2022
The next time didn't come until May 2022 when the same group plus my grandson set off from the same parking spot, this time taking the track to the left signed for the Cour.
Alex had brought her terrier Nugget to join the fun
Took right fork off track which led to path alongside river
Where path joins track signed to Grey Corries
Another helpful sign
The walk in was straightforward and we made good time to the start of the firebreak path up to the ridge.
Up the firebreak
It was muddy in places but there was a clear path all the way to a gate leading out to the grassy ridge up Beinn na Socaich.
Gate
Once through the gate it was just a case of walking up the grassy ridge. Nothing difficult about that, except that I was making heavy weather of it. Following a bout of Covid a couple of weeks earlier, I thought I'd recovered. But a routine medical had picked up that my blood pressure was too high. Knowing it was high as I slogged up that ridge with a pounding head, rang alarm bells. Maybe I shouldn't push myself feeling like this and risk becoming a potential statistic for MRT to deal with. I also knew I was slowing the rest of the group which wasn't fair on them. So I did something I've not done before and persuaded the others to go on without me. They weren't keen but I was determined, pointing out that I had a map, visibility was good and I knew the way back to the car. I asked them to take some photos for me and waved them off.
View north down the grassy ridge
I sat on a rock and waited until it felt okay to keep going, but with no intention of catching them. I'd watched them disappearing over Beinn na Socaich but I took a traversing path to the west with great views of the Aonachs. Walking at a slower pace I felt fine or I wouldn't have gone any further.
Traversing Beinn na Socaich towards Aonach Mor
Where Grey Corries meet the Aonachs
Zoomed to Aonach Beag
Sgurr Choinnich Mor and Beag (last taken before I turned back)
I won't deny I was disappointed. I'd wanted to climb my last elusive Grey Corrie since doing the western one and to find a group who were up for it was a chance not to be missed. But it was the right thing to do. I even enjoyed soaking in the atmosphere of the place and not seeing another soul. Meanwhile the gang of four made good progress and were soon at the top of Stob Coire Essain.
Cliffs of Stob Coire an Laoigh (Ian's photo)
Ascent of Stob Coire Easain (Ian's photo)
Grandson on Stob Coire Easain (Ian's photo)
Stob Coire Easain summit with Aonachs and Ben Nevis behind (Linda's photo)
Linda sent a group selfie when they reached the Stob Coire an Laoigh summit and said after they'd eaten they'd be heading back. I received it while texting them from the gate at the top of the firebreak. I then walked as far as a junction in the tracks where I set up temporary camp on the stump of a tree.
A wistful look back
I didn't have to wait all that long before I saw them coming and jumped up so quickly to go and meet them I forgot to pick up my red folding seat from the tree stump. It was good to hear how they'd got on and to have the last hour of the day walking together again. We were back at the cars by 4.30 whereas I think if I'd struggled on it would have been more like 6.30 and would have messed up any evening plans they might have had.
It had turned into a beautiful afternoon
21st July 2022
The day I pulled out of the climb I assumed I'd not be back. It was disappointing but I'd never planned to climb all the Munros so it wasn't essential that I ever did. But two months later, with blood pressure at a healthier level, I started to think about it. What was to stop me having another go, just me and the dog? There had been some very warm days which wouldn't be ideal for a dog, but a forecast of high cloud might work. On the day I chose MWIS was 70% but there was to be high cloud and no rain. So off we went down the Great Glen to park at the same road end as before. It was overcast and dull but I was feeling positive. I've discovered late in life I enjoy solo walking (which I suppose isn't really solo as I've got the dog). We followed the now familiar track, then path, then track, to the point where I left my red folding seat, had a good search for it but it was gone. Someone must have claimed it which was fair enough.
The firebreak path was muddier than the first time and it started drizzling. It turned into a bit of a jacket on jacket off kind of day and in the palaver of taking rucksack off to extract jacket then off to pack away jacket I must have dropped the dog lead, which I didn't notice until we encountered sheep going up Stob Coire Easain. I realise that having admitted losing my folding seat and now the dog lead I'm coming across as a ditsy person. That's probably a fair conclusion. I did keep my eyes open on the way down but didn't find the lead so am now guilty of inadvertently discarding one red folding seat and one blue dog lead somewhere on the lower reaches of the Grey Corries.
Not looking too promising
Seeing sheep I automatically went to put Keira on the lead and found it was gone. This posed a problem until I found a bum bag in my rucksack which could work as a lead. She walks well on the lead so didn't put much strain on it and problem was averted.
Sheep on way up Stob Coire Easain
It's an easy ascent up Stob Coire Easain and I felt completely different from the day two months earlier. That day had been much better for visibility and views but I didn't mind that. There was something atmospheric about the shifting clouds and I had a clear path to follow.
Stob Coire Easain summit 1080m
Heading for Stob Coire an Laoigh
Before I spotted him my dog heard/smelt/saw (take your pick) another walker descending the ridge towards us. Normally when we're out she ignores other walkers but it's another matter when I'm solo walking with her on the hills. She then appoints herself my protector and becomes quite vocal about it. I put her on the bum bag to reassure him and apologised for the barking. He fortunately understood dog psychology and we stood and chatted for a while, as you do.
Reaching the summit the views weren't as good as they would have been on either of the two previous days. It didn't matter. Today we had done it. After two failed attempts it meant something. I think it was Robert the Bruce who is meant to have said "If at first you don't succeed..... try, try again".
Stob Coire an Laoigh summit 1116m
The dog didn't know it but it just happened to be her fourth birthday - so she got half my sandwiches as well as a good long walk to celebrate!
Happy dog
East along Grey Corries main ridge
Zoomed to Stob Ban
Descent and reascent of Stob Coire Easain
SW to pointy Sgurr Choinnich Mor
Our return ridge between Stob Coire Easain and Beinn na Socaich
Crags of Stob Coire Easain
South beyond Sgurr Choinnich Mor to Sgurr Eilde Mor (left) and Binnein Mor (right)
Down the broad ridge towards Beinn na Socaich
Zoomed to Loch Lochy
Down the firebreak for the last time
So that's my tale of climbing Stob Coire an Laoigh after two failed attempts. Each day was different but each enjoyable in its own way. The hills have so much to give and with changing weather each day is unique. This is why I've no regrets about doing the Grey Corries in a disorganised way. I've so many memories of this ridge from coming at it from different angles and am indebted to Sunset tripper for his route suggestion.
Stob Coire Easain and Stob Coire an Laoigh from Sgurr Choinnich Mor (October 2020)
