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The following description starts with The Saddle and Sgùrr na Signe and then following the ridge in reverse direction.For this walk I was looking forward since I my walks of the Sisters and Brothers in Glen Shiel in 2020 and I waited the whole week for the best weatherforecast. And two days before I had to go back to Germany the time had come:
- Early morning at Loch Alsch on my drive from Plockton to Glen Shiel
At 6:45 I set off for the stalkers path towards the col.
- Inversion over Glen Shiel towards Loch Cluanie
Considering the long walking day I bypassed the Forcan ridge but there was still some scrambling for a little warm up. 2 hrs later I reached the upper part of the Bealach Coire Mhàlagain.
- Looking up towards The Saddle from the upper part of Bealach Coire Mhàlagain
From the Bealach the skyline looked a bit awkward and I wasn't sure which top to target. But a short chat with a young man coming down form The Saddle solved the problem. He pointed to the dome-like top to the left. Strange I thought, it looked much lower than the other rocks to the right.
However, I left my Rucksack and started the ascent. From time to time I heard voices and noises from a campsite of a group of people down Lochan Bealach Coire Mhàlagan who were packing. But the higher I got the quieter it became and the sweatier I got. It was a steep path upwards over some scree and some muddy sections.
When I reached the summit with the trigpoint I still had the impression that the next peak looked definitely higher.
- Trigpoint-summit of The Saddle
So I scrambeld over just to make sure and took my first trophy-picture of the day and enjoyed the great views around
- Summit-Selfie on the Rocks :-))
Soon I resumed my walk. At the Bealach the camper-party was ready to go, the little Lochan was very calm and steep slopes were rising above.
- Little Lochan at Bealach Coire Mhàlagain
From time to time I lost the path and had to manage some tough scramble over heather and rocky crags

, but finally I reached the plateau and from there it was a more gentle walk to today's second summit: Sgùrr na Signe with breathtaking views around and towards the ridge ahead.
- reaching the plateau
- Summit-Selfie number two: Sgùrr na Signe
- The Saddle and Forcan Ridge
- Summit View
I thought I was well prepared for the travers over to Bealach an Toiteil and up Sgùrr a Bhac Chaolais
- Bealach an Toiteil, Sgùrr a Bhac Chaolais and the South Glen Shiel Ridge beyond
I had my map, the description of Steve Fallon and his gps-record. But the gps record didn't really work. It always got overlaid by stupid and misleading garmin- instructions. So, I couldn't find the exit from Sgùrr na Signe which was supposed to avoid Coire Toiteil at the east side
- Looking down from Sgùrr na Signe to Coire Toiteil. I didn't like the look of it :-(
I had a little chat about my problem with another walker but of course he couldn't help.

after all it is not a frequent route.
Annoyed and disappointed I tried at least to figure out whether there was any chance to get over this uninviting ground of Coire Toiteil before I would give up. And the further I got the less I was willing to turn around. And while I plodded over rocks and zigzagging over this unpleasant ground to avoid the most boggiest parts, slowy, slowy it dawned on me that I must have misunderstood the term ,,right off" in the description which probably means: go left?
Finally I reached the foot of the slopes of Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais. Looking back I clearly could see the wall which Steve Fallon has mentioned and even traces of a path below the impressive cliff of Sgùrr na Signe coming around the west side crazy:
- Wall below the cliff of Sgùrr na Signe
- Looking back from the far side of Bealach an Toiteil to the cliffs of Sgùrr na Signe
Then I made a another the mistake: I ignored the recommandation of Steve Fallon to stay further down and going up the more grassy slopes. Instead adamantly I stuck to the line of fence posts (don't do it!) which meant again some very tough and partly hazardous and breathtaking scramble.
But with each obstacle I have managed I became more determined to continue. I definitely wanted to finish this crossing and to get to the start of the ridge - no further thinking than this.
Finally I reached the cairn of Sgùrr a Bhac Chaolais - shame that it has been demoted as a Corbett after all this slog!
I stopped for a short time to get a little breather and to took in the views. My heart was still beating after the adventurous scrambles - just look at my gps-record...
- Summit View towards the ridge from Sgùrr Bhac Chaolais
Now, while I was following again the line of fence posts along the gentle undulating path towards Bealach Duibh Leac I started caculating.
- Following the line of fence posts down to Bealach Duibh Leac
Not that I would have been able to calculate anything for this walk but I tried to estimate the time and distance trying to work out when I should and could be at the last munro. Would I reach it still during daylight? Of cours it was tight but the result I received with my unprofessional calculation was reassuring, felt convincing and most of all was encouraging
It was about 12:45 when I reached the junction which obviously is the last exit from the ridge when you come from the South. Seeing the steep and grassy slopes nothing could have convinced me to finish my walk here after all the struggle!
- Last exit for walkers coming from Loch Cluanie
Meanwhile I was pretty confident that I would finish this ridge. I couldn't imagine what could hold me back now. But very soon and before the first munro of the ridge I came to a sudden stop at a very steep rock which is described on WH as
a real trial for worn-out limbs for those coming from the south.
- shock
My heart dropped. A little party was down below and a woman tried to scramble upward but finally she gave up and the party started to take the route down the road which gives an earlier exit from the ridge.
I was very uncertain about the climb down with my rucksack on my back. It was awfully steep, deep and partly very narrow and no path at the beginning. A walker suddenly appeared in front of me and out of sheer desparation I asked him if it was difficult to get down. His confirmation encouraged me despite the obvious contradiction. So I started, holding my breath, gliding down from one foothold to the next in slow-motion and taking a deep breath when I finally reached safe ground - uff.
- Exit from the ridge: the party is descending
- looking back to the rock
While the thought passed my mind, that this would probably be the last opportunity to leave the ridge I already continued walking towards the first munro, respectively the third of the day.
Meanwhile it has become relentlessly hot and I was very happy that I went south with the sun in my back.
- The two cairns of Creag nam Damh, first Munro on the ridge
- View from Creag nam Damh
Time and again I met walkers coming towards me. It was nice to have some contact and little chats in between.
Nothing could hold me back now
- Sgùrr an Lochan coming next while bypassing Sgùrr Beag
- Coire an Lochan between Sgùrr an Lochan and my third munro on the ridge: Sgùrr an Doire Leathain
When I remember right, it was at the cairn of Sgùrr an Doire Leathain that I took my rucksack off for a break while another party came up from the other side. We chatted a little bit and they offered me bars and cakes when they heard about my plan and what I have done so far

.
But food was not my problem, water was more my concern. I had only one and a half littre left out of my four littres because it was an extraordinary hot day. However, it would get cooler during the next hours and I hoped that I would not run out of water again like I did on the Beinn Dearg Circuit in 2020.
While having my late lunch I was looking around and wandering what was expecting me in the distance were I saw the ridge riven by some pinnacles. Was there I bypass
- looking over the ridge from Sgúrr an Doire Leathain
A little bit nervous about this outlook I resumed my walk soon.
- View towards Loch Cluanie from Sgùrr an Doire Lochain
But first, the following part to the Maol Chinn-dearg was very relaxing although the bypass of Sgùrr Coire na Feinne was quite long, I thought, but it offered nice views down Glen and Loch Quoich.
- Loch Quoich
- Walk from Sgùrr an Doire Leathain to Maol Chinn-dearg
I reached Maol Chinn-dearg around 7pm - a bit more than 12 hours later since I have started my walk.
- Cairn of Maol Chinn-Dearg - the sixth munro of the day
That would leave me one hour for each of the last three munros in average in daylight and may be, with a little luck, still daylight for a little while on my descent, I thought.
The atmosphere has changed meanwhile. It was not so hot anymore, the light became softer and it was a very enjoyable walk form Maol Chinn-dearg towards Aonach air Chrith until I reached the rocky part.
- Looking back to Maol Chinn-dearg
The decribed bypass for those coming from the South wasn't easy to find, so I had some scramble to do before I discovered it finally.
Already from the distance I have seen people on Aonach air Chrith and for quite a while I could hear their voices - it is amazing how far voices are carried in the mountains sometimes.
- Camper party at the summit Aonach air Chrith
It was a group of walkers preparing an overnight camp.
Again I had a little chat, they told me about their plans and assured me that there were no further obstacle for the rest of the walk. They told me that they have seen my bike which I have left at a bench overlooking Loch Cluanie the day before, well wrapped in tarpaulin. That made me happe: my bike, still there
One of the guys offered me to take a summit-picture with the last two munros in the background, thanks for this.
- summit picture: quite knackered but happy
- outlook towards the last two munros.
It was a shame that I had no time to enjoy the beautiful sunset and this lovely evening! I definitely have to learn camping, I thought.
- Cairn of Aonach air Chrith
- view towards Loch Cluanie form Aonach air Chrith
- ... and sunset over Skye in the opposite direction
Still, I enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere during the rest of my walk which was very very pleasant along the gentle undulating route over the last summits and to the end of the ridge.
- the last two summits: Druim Shionnach and Creag a' Mhaim
With the last fading daylight I reached the summit of Creag a' Mhaim.
Ten minutes after I have started the descent it was pitch dark.
The path was narrow but with the help of my torch I could follow the zigzags very easily.
I felt safe but I haven't expected that it would be such a loooong descent.
However, while I was descending I saw an impressive spectacle of nature: Suddenly a red light appeared in the distance and I remembered that I have seen a similar light and shape once which finally has turned out to be a tent. But this time it was really moving and growing and after a while I finally saw the reflection of a perfect full moon over Loch Loyne rising more and more in an amazing orange-red. What a sight! and no real equipment to take a propper picture! What a shame!
- This picture hardly shows the spectacular colour and impressive sight of the rising moon - howeve the memory is very vivid :-))
Finally I was on the old road. And again the walk to my bike was much longer than I had expected. According to the information on my map it should have been much closer, but it wasn't: 3 more kilometers but in a starry night with an amazing full moon
Then I reached my bike, another hour later I was at my car which I almost missed due to intensifying fog during the last two kilometers along the A87 and I nearly lost my nerves at the end of this day
As much more I felt relieved when I finally saw some reflections from the other side of the road and discovered that they came from my car.
- the cairn at the old road, bike wrapped up in tarpaulin, cottage light
I got rid of my luggage, mounted my bike and off it was, back to my cottage in Plockton for the last day of this year's summer holidays with an incredible finale!
I am so thankful for these holidays after last year's break and especially for this day and all encounters, impressions and experiences I have had! LOVE
