North Pennines: Nag's Head, Dead Stones on to Viewing Hill

[Rodhumphreys]

This walk over 6 Hewitts in the North Pennines is a really big adventure, notable for its lack of established paths and the solitude you are likely to enjoy on this long-distance circular journey. Firstly, my starting point was not the wisest of decisions, more of that, and an alternative recommendation later in this account. I parked in a large space on the top of the moor, off the A689 just over a mile to the east of Nenthead. Given that I was already at 623 meters, it meant that the journey across the hills to Dead Stones and Burnhope Seat involved only gentle undulations. I followed the fence (right-hand side) all the way to Burnhope in good visibility. The underfoot conditions were challenging, in that there is no path, only an occasional light tread, mainly over grass tussocks and exposed peat. There was also a lot of broken wood laid down over the peat and I would expect that in wet or winter conditions you would be up to your ankles and possibly worse on several of the more difficult sections. The views across to Cross Fell are spectacular from Burnhope and they remain a constant, albeit from various perspectives throughout the walk.
From Burnhope Seat, there is a choice between dropping down to the cattle grid on the B6277 and then heading for Round Hill, but I had decided to turn this into an all-day affair and continue across Scaud Hill towards Great Stony Hill and then on to Three Pikes. On a clear day the route is obvious and continues to follow a fence on a high line. Just be warned that the nature of the terrain means that the going becomes increasingly slow as your legs tire. The isolation experienced up here is a quite amazing experience, particularly after the more formal footpaths of the Lakes and much of the southern Pennines.
The route planning really starts from the top of Three Pikes. You can now see civilization below you in the valley and you have to pick a line down to the road. I aimed for the mast shown on the OS map at Hill Top. Having successfully and quickly dropped off the hill, I expected to find a straightforward footpath heading across the fields to the minor road below my next target, Viewing Hill. However, although there is a footpath sign directly across the road from Hill Top, the actual path made me conclude that I was the first to attempt to walk it in years. Indeed, there are two new 1.2 metre fences across the line of the path which I had to clamber over. (I have reported these obstructions). Anyone following this route may prefer to turn left along the road at Hill Top to join the minor road 600 metres south at Peases Cottage.
I made a decision at this point to use the minor road northwards for 2km and then breakout on to the moor at the sheepfold at the end of the paved section of road. This was fine but perhaps a better if longer alternative may be to use a more southerly route onto West Common and ascend the ridge to Viewing Hill via Bleak Law. The route I chose more or less followed Greencomb Sike, initially through long grass but soon becoming more tussocky as the gradient eased. The top of Viewing Hill is a broad expanse with a series of grouse shooting stands. The top is marked by a small pile of stones, and although not spectacular, it is a pleasant enough top with good views on a clear day. It is interesting at this point to look to the east to spot the distant line of the ridge which was followed earlier.
From this point I struck west heading for Metalband Hill which is a small top lying to the south of Bellbeaver Rigg. I was aiming to cut a bend in the River Tees which would lead me to the start of an old mining track. Again, the going underfoot is uneven and slows progress without ever becoming unpleasant in these dry conditions. Sure enough, the mining track appeared on cue providing a welcome period of mostly level and easy walking. The route turns north and joins the River Tyne Trail, with Round Hill, the next objective rising clearly to the northwest. There is a small stile across the fence which allows good access to the ridge rather than delaying for a more direct climb up the western flank of the hill. As you approach the summit, Cross Fell now appears much closer, rather than the long-distance view from Burnhope earlier in the day.
The top of Round Hill was marked by a very small pile of stones within an enclosure of three walls and fences. The stones and the location rather understate the hill which certainly has prominence, again with clear views over to Cross Fell which now appears even closer.
From Round Hill I followed the ridge descending north to Noonstones Hill and then cut right down to the line of the small wood at Dorthgill. The lower reaches of the slope are covered in long grass and I expect this may be a little wet underfoot in winter. The trick now is to make your way over to the River Tyne Trail which parallels the river a few hundred yards to the east of the minor road. Initially I planned to go down the track to Tynehead but there was a big no entry side on the gate with dire warnings of unsafe structures. None of which I suspect affects the right of way. However, given that I was now in an advance stage of tiredness, I chose to cross at Hole House, about a kilometre further north and made my way with some trepidation through the farmyard and up the track (east) to the B6277.
This is where I own up to the error I referred to at the start of this route description. Basically, never start a very long walk by parking at the top of a hill. I took the number 7 cycle route from Mid Ashgill past the woods at Mount Pleasant continuing past Priorsdale. I then cut the corner across the moor just above the disused reservoir to join the A689 at an acute angle to return to the layby at the top of the hill. This final uphill 5km was absolutely no fun. Now, what I should have done is found myself a parking space on the road leading up to Mid Ashgill in the morning, and then strike east off the cycle route just after the woods at Mount Pleasant aiming directly for the first major top, Dead Stones. So, if you decide to follow in my footsteps on this quite epic route, spend a little time at the start parking more wisely than I did.
One final footnote, in the final stage of this walk there is an additional hill designated as a Hewitt named Flinty Fell. Whilst I had covered most of the height gain on the cycle route, I had absolutely no desire to take a 3km there-and-back to take in the Fell. That can wait until I visit the hills above Nenthead on a future journey. This is a magnificent if lonely route, a true adventure, but best done in clear conditions, otherwise the route finding and the solitude could be an issue.