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After almost five years of bagging at the start of the new decade I climbed my 100th Munro in the snow on Mount Keen. The year then took its unprecedented turn and I found myself content with the thought of escaping the city for a short wander never mind climbing another big hill. The months passed and I spent time reading about and planning very hypothetical walks.
As always with my round I had to consider how I would deal with the Munros I couldn't easily reach by car. I concluded that despite my experience of really not enjoying camping (the last time I even spent a night out was in August 2009) I should force myself to get into it. Before I caught the hill bug I loved my long distance treks so why not try and combine the two.
No-one could travel abroad much in 2020 and I had an intuition that a fair few others would have the same plan as me. Like the purchase of bikes, lightweight tents would probably be the next great objects of desire or so it seemed. I didn't hesitate any longer and after a bit of amateur research I bought all the gear I thought I'd need.
As life started to open up again I still had a good amount of hotel/public transport walk options to keep me occupied and I again delayed the responsibility of being out in the wilderness alone.
2020 had cemented the idea of finishing in my mind and I knew I didn't want The Cuilins or the Aonach Eagach hanging over the end of the round and for the rest of the year I concentrated on these signature hills, gaining confidence and a sense of achievement after climbing them. Focus and intensity had increased by about three fold and all of a sudden I'd hiked sixty hills instead of my previous average of twenty per year. Eventually as I began to draw some overly ambitious lines on my maps I realized 2021 would have to be the year of the remote Munros. I'd have to go for it at some point or not at all.
As the travel ban was finally lifted late the following spring I arranged a hike and camp with my friend out on the banks of Loch Arkaig with the tent near Invermallie Bothy. Our intention was to climb Gulvain from the wrong side over Mullach-Coire nan Geur-oirean. We pitched by the river then headed off for a enjoyable day in the sun not meeting another soul and arriving back in the twilight to polish off some dinner and rum. I turned in and had a very restless and somewhat cold night. We packed up the next morning and headed back to the car. A nice introduction and things had more or less gone to plan.
- Invermallie
Another one night camping trip followed soon after in Glen Kinglass.
A couple of weeks later I had a few days off work and a corresponding good forecast. My friend on his Corbett round suggested accompanying him back to the west of Loch Arkaig for another climb together. I took the plunge and asked if he'd mind as an alternative dropping me off at Strathan and I could go for a big wander for a few days on the Rough Bounds. My planning was a bit optimistic looking back in terms of the height and distance involved (I didn't bother to calculate)
Despite all my lightweight gear, as a tent novice I wasn't yet confident enough to consider carrying my pack over the big peaks (although this would happen later in the year through Monar and on most subsequent multi-day hikes).
On the first day I'd pitch in Glen Dessarry then walk the Loch Arkaig Munros and hopefully be back at the tent by dusk. Then I'd climb Sgurr Mor early next day and after packing up my pitch would walk south along the Cape Wrath Trail to Glenfinnan where I'd find a spot to put me in place for Sgurr nan Coirechean on its own. Sgurr Thuilm had been my 4th Munro years ago and it left SNC awkwardly unclimbed. Hopefully I'd manage this the following morning after which I'd hike south past Corryhully and towards Glenfinnan station where I'd catch a train home 'sometime on Wednesday.' I might as well jump in at the deep end.
Monday 31st May 2021.
After a slow and undulating drive along one of the Highlands real roads to nowhere we arrived at Strathan and said our goodbyes. I promised to text location updates over the course of the next couple of days. It was about quarter past twelve so I'd have just enough time to get to Sgurr na Ciche and back by dusk. As I turned north into Glen Dessarry I caught my first glimpse of its rather intimidating Lodge further west. I knew I'd better choose a pitch spot fairly quickly and as close to the start of tomorrows hike up Sgurr Mor as possible made sense. A fairly decent site was found over a couple of streams next to a bend in the river more or less at the head of the valley.
- Camp spot by the River Dessarry.
The load on my back now substantially lightened I made good progress along the Glen and arrived at the turn north and the first slog of the trip up SNC. This trio have a reputation for remoteness and ruggedness and so it proved with only a vague track up. I knuckled down and steadily climbed before eventually the views started to open out.
- Garbh Chioch Mhor
GCM with its rock and (what I presume) famine wall loomed large and setting off again quickly I got ready for another grind in the afternoon sun west along the ridge. The hours drifted by and I finally caught a glimpse again of the actual summit from Garbh Chioch Bheag. The light became really stunning as the evening took hold and I finally made the cairn at the top of GCM with Sgurr na Ciche now clearly ahead and the Small Isles silhouetted against the sky. Spectacular and not a soul around. I realized most of the uphill work was done estimating that SNC's top was perhaps only an hour away.
- Ciche
Due to its distinctive outline I always thought the trek up would be hazardous but there was only really some steep loose rock to contend with before arriving on the surprisingly spacious summit. The views were jawdropping all the way around. The rough stone of this area almost glinting in the evening sun.
- Loch Quioch and Sgurr Mor
Loch Nevis stood out below and I thought of a return one day climbing up the west ridge.
- Loch Nevis from Sgurr na Ciche summit
- Ben Aden
View back east to GCM
- Inner Hebrides and Loch Nevis
- South to Bidean A Chabhair
It was a fantastic 360 degree panorama and I stuck around for a good twenty minutes taking it all in. I'd lost track of time slightly and realized it was after seven o'clock and that I'd better get going and return to the tent nearly 6 miles to the east. The descent down between the last two Munros proved to be fairly steep and I took my time as the path followed a stream over greasy rock before I finally arrived into open ground at the very west of Glen Dessarry. It was a straightforward tramp back after the intital section and I arrived safely at my camp spot in the growing darkness disturbing the red deer who had gathered sporadically in numbers around the riverside. It had been a great day and I lay down finally feeling a bit tired.
Tuesday 1st June 2021
Not really being used to sleeping outdoors I had a pretty rough night. A too tired to sleep feeling mixed with inevitable Vit D overload woke me up regularly. Shortly after first light I thought it better to just get up and on with the days plan (a big one!). The earlier the start the better.
The River Dessarry wasn't appealing to drink from so I filled the water bottle at the Allt na Feithe and began my climb over the Feith a Chicheanais. I must have been more tired than I realized or half asleep as I laid my collapsible poles down between the knobbly rock near a faint path before a comfort break. Returning I couldn't find them anywhere no matter how hard I looked. I then stupidly laid my backpack down to undertake a wider search of the area and almost lost its location as well. Better to quit while behind. So the poles were gone. Strike One. I became wary afterwards to ensure this would remain the only mishap. A kind walkhighlands member did return them a month or two later after a lost notice on the forum but it seems they were jinxed as I broke the same pair after falling on Sgorr Ruadh the following spring.
I tried as best I could to put the poles out of my mind and descended into Glen Kingie where the south wall of Sgurr Mor and Sgurr an Fhuaran presented itself steeply ahead. There was little sun to lift spirits as the Glen opened up and I crossed the river once again refilling as I knew it would probably be a while before another opportunity.
- Glen Kingie
The slog was painful but I eventually topped out on the ridge, a fantastic sight, clear even in the cloudy gloom. Inspecting Sgurr an Fhuaran I felt minded to leave it for another day but it would be a long arduous trip to get back anywhere near this hill so I dumped the bag at an unmistakeably clear spot on the ridge path and headed east to the summit and a bonus Corbett.
- Sgurr an Fhuaran summit
- Sgurr Mor
The detour was worth it for the developing views of SM contrasted with the distinctive silhouettes of its western neighbours in the background.
I retraced my steps to the summit of Sgurr Mor and felt satisfied at having made it to the top of such a remote peak.
After descending and reascending Sgurr Beag further west along the ridge I glanced back and noticed two specks behind on top of SM. The first walkers nearby since the previous afternoon. The outline of the Rough Bounds looked magnificent even in the relative murk. Lochan nam Breac stood out elevated above Loch Quioch.
- Loch Quioch with Lochan nam Breac
- SNC and friends
I was close to the previous days section of ridge and it seemed marginal whether the effort involved to walk without the tent outweighed all the extra miles meandering back around to these hill lines. I appraised the situation for future reference.
- Sgurr na Ciche
The stalkers path was picked up on the south and it zigzagged comfortably back down to the Kingie where I paused for another rest. Then it was back over the bealach and a final futile search for the lost poles (extra 20 minutes) before the final descent back into Dessarry and the tent.
I zipped its side up and once again attempted to sleep without success so I decided on just a rest for an hour or so and a cup of tea while attempting to judge the time it would take to walk the Cape Wrath Trail into Glenfinnan.
The pause did me good and I packed up to depart feeling the extra weight again on my back. As I walked back round to Strathan I started to pass people going the opposite way, one starting out for Sourlies. Back at the farm I checked my route and cut down south to cross the Dessary. I ended up stepping through some fairly serious bog and before long decided to abandon this area for a forest track and a crossing of the River Pean a little further to the west.
Once over I started to meet a few enthusiastic CWT walkers heading north while I gradually took the incline into Gleann a' Chaorainn. The going was extremely rough and eroded despite this being a trail of sorts, a result of its growing popularity and no actual pathwork.This bogtrot wasn't much fun even in the reappearing evening sun and the Bealach a' Chaorainn looked more imposing than I'd expected a few kilometres up ahead.
I knew that if I was serious about climbing the last Munro tomorrow morning it would have to be made straightforward by camping right at the foot of the path despite my weariness. I hauled my way up to the Bealach passing a couple who seemed a bit lost on the way and as I dropped into Glenfinnan I attempted to pick out the summit of Coireachean against the sunset convincing myself that it wasn't really that high and wouldn't be too tough a hike before picking up a track on my descent, finishing the day at a nice site at the covergence of the River Finnan.
Wednesday 2nd June 2021
I awoke early again and really feeling it by now the temptation struck once more to leave the last hike and just make my way to the station for the early train. I came to my senses and concluded this would be unsatisfying given the walk as a whole and I estimated how long an up and down on Sgurr nan Coireachean would take. 4 hours I decided. Normally yes but very optimistic given my sore legs. Setting off straight onto the path it was an unrelenting climb not unexpected as I'd been told by friends it was a good but rough hill.
The trip had given many memorable moments yet the one that etches itself in my mind most clearly was the orange disc of the sun coming up over the side of Sgurr Thuilm on that third morning. Its heat helped me regenerate some energy. The dawn seemed to symbolize something epic and intangible about this wild area.
- View from Coireachan down to 2nd nights camp spot.
I gained the ridge of Sgurr a' Choire Riabhaich and after a short walk was presented discouragingly with the sight of the true summit looking very imposing in front. I dipped back down again amidst bare rock and tiny pools before the final climb. Startlingly given how early I'd begun, a buoyant fell runner bounced passed me seemingly on an anti-clockwise hike of the Horseshoe. Shorty after I reached the trig point of SNC and surveyed the view down into Glen Pean and beyond in the morning haze. The trip ascent now complete I took advantage of a clear phone signal to make a call and text saying all was okay.
- SNC Glenfinnan summit view north
- Summit view north
- Above Loch Morar and Glen Pean
The day was developing into a scorcher and I'd misjudged my water supply so I headed down to the Glen briskly trying to spot the tent on the way.
- Tent a speck below in Glenfinnan
A pleasant breeze got up and as I had a bit of time left before the final walk to the station I lay down for a while next to the river with a cup of ginger tea and relaxed in the sunshine.
- Glenfinnan
After packing up I started down the road south and passed Corryhully fairly soon after. Before long the familiar sight of the viaduct came into view and I sat down for a break in its shade away from the glare. A few tourists were taking pictures and the bodies increased as I arrived at the neaby carpark
- Viaduct
- Reaching Journeys end
Still with time to spare I set upon the idea of a lunch at the Hotel and despite smelling like a dog they kindly let me in and sensibly seated me slightly away from everyone else. I thoroughly enjoyed my chicken dinner washed down with a pint, my eyes virtually rolling back in my head.
Satisfied I made my way along and up to the station. I'd spotted a slight shortcut on the map and willfully made for what should have been a path. A kindly southerner appeared in his back garden and asked just what it was exactly I thought I was doing. In no mood for debate I retraced my steps and rejoined the long route round before arriving at the Station and enjoying another lie down before the train home.
