Graham Bagging for Softies

[Sgurr]

THIS IS ANOTHER REPORT SALVAGED FROM THE OLD DAYS ON SCOTTISHHILLS.COM

What? An Stac
When? May 25th 2013
Who? Sgurr and R. (with a guest appearance by Cuillin)
Weather? Blue sky, little wind, not too hot. Wonderful
Distance? 6.2 miles Ascent? 2496 feet
Map? 30

As the number of Grahams we had yet to do grew smaller, the problem of An Stac loomed ever larger. I had questioned so many people on possible ways in that they must have been getting fed up with me. I had considered and reconsidered so many plans that as we would be walking up a totally inoffensive Marilyn I would come out with “I know how we could climb An Stac!” and a range of collapsible kayaks, multiple day camps and overnight light-weight dashes would be disposed of.

Plan A. The standard Dempster route had been discarded (9-13 hours). Since we had already done Meith Beinn with which he combines AnStac. “These two wild and inaccessible hills are set in some of the grandest scenery in the Western Highlands. Together they make a formidable challenge for the fit walker, and An Stac in particular can be regarded as one of the remotest Grahams.” Herein lay the problem. We are not your average “fit walker”, we are over the hill walkers (possibly over many hills).

Plan B, or Plan Bagger as it came to be known, was simply Beyond Belief. Twelve hours for Bagger that formidably tough ex-teacher only five years younger than us, would probably be eighteen for we two.

Plan C, or plan camping was a possibility. I had even bought an extra sized rucksack so I could carry my fair share of the gear. I had found it so easy to advertise for a student to teach me how to use my Android smart phone, that I toyed with the idea of recruiting students to sherpa us in…but who could tell in advance that they could do it, and what would their parents say if they came to grief? We had as an emergency back-up the offer from a couple of Shillers to do some portering. Thanks to you two guys, it might have come to that, and we were very touched that you would think of helping us out.

Plan D via Glen Pean bothy might just as well have been christened Plan Glen Pain. The 14 miles round trip from the bothy plus the ascent was looking on the long side.


While we were summoning the strength to give camping a go, Providence, in the shape of Hamish Brown loaned us a hand. We read in Tips for the Tops in Marhofn News that a boatman could take us the length of Loch Morar: Tel. 01687 462388 I was on the phone immediately, and when I had a tentative agreement, got in touch with Cuillin who had tried in vain to contact someone around Loch Morar who would hire out a boat. He was game to come too (though I maybe didn’t make it clear enough that it was £70 each way per person, not just £70 all-in, for the boat, )
We watched the boatman (Viv DeFresnes of the Loch Morar Association) getting ready,



But it wasn’t until we were all in the boat that R. and Cuillin could really believe we had pulled it off, and were away.


We sped up Loch Morar, and half an hour later were approaching the Oban Bothy with An Stac on the right.


We dumped all our food and sleeping bags in the bothy and set out immediately telling Cuillin, who wanted Meith Bheinn as well, not to wait for us.



We walked just over 1.5 miles up Gleann Taodhail



to the foot of the western ridge of An Stac, and then began to climb. Below, An Stac from the following day’s descent of Druim a’ Chuirn


Dempster says “from this point the west ridge of An Stac rises up in tiers of sound rock providing some entertaining scrambling if the best crags are hunted out”. We found that the crags had a tendency to hunt US out, and the problem was avoiding the scrambling. On the whole, sticking to the left until we could not manage, and then crossing to the right seemed to avoid most of the trouble. Below, some rocks were easy enough to avoid


After this, I tended to keep my hands for getting upwards rather than for taking steep photos, which was a pity. I hoped Cuillin had the nerve to keep clicking, but never managed to save his photos from the CURSE of PHOTOBUCKET.

Looking back, Meith Bheinn on the left, then Druim a Chuirn then Loch Morar
r

Looking ahead


R. approaching the false top


The top at last (and I had disovered how to operate my self-timer). Looking east towards Loch Arkaig


Looking westish


Looking west


Looking north
]


Two looking east




Looking west (zoomed) from the descent, towards Meith Bheinn




We made our way slowly and painfully down, as R’s knee was not getting any better.


Between a third and half way down, we met Cuillin coming up, having already cracked Meith Bheinn. He overtook us as we walked back along the track as well

It seemed far further walking back to the bothy than it had setting out



There was no one else in the bothy, so we could choose which of the several rooms and camp beds we would like for the night.

We lit a fire and settled down to start celebrations on Cuillin’s wine until it was time for bed, since next day we had Druim a’ Chuirn to climb.





What? Druim a Chuirn
When? May 26th 2013
Who? Sgurr and R.
Weather? Overcast with low cloud and then clearing
Distance? 5.75 miles Ascent? 1994 feet
Map? 30


Having done An Stac the day before, we felt little inclined for another day’s walking, but realised that we were unlikely to be so close again for a long time, so got up at 6.30 and were off by 8 a.m.


As for An Stac, we followed the path up Gleann Taodhail and crossed the river around NM 848886. After the previous night’s rain, there seemed little chance of getting across without wet socks, so I had brought a spare pair.


We followed the northern bank upwards through sparse deciduous trees


Then we entered the pass, which would take us over to Meoble had we gone a lot further on.

There were crags on our right


So we went along until we could see a good grassy way up
[url=https://flic.kr/p/ZfB5CT]

Looking towards the summit area


We could see over towards Rum


The top must be somewhere around here


The top, a tiny cairn


Looking towards Rum


Zoomed


Towards Skye


Clouds playing around the summits




And Meith Bheinn


Skye clearing a bit (zoomed)



We just had a snack and soon set off down, as we were worried about meeting our water-taxi at 5 p.m.
Looking towards the bothy




And further down


Hardly any wild-life today. We heard a peregrine and met these two frogs




Descending towards the river
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On the way back, we had no better luck with the crossing than on the way up. The water running past hypnotises me until I almost keel over


The bracken has started to grow, another week or so and it will be everywhere.

We saw some sheep near the bothy. It is a mystery who thinks it worthwhile to keep them so far from any dwelling, but maybe they have just made a bid for freedom.

We had time to sit and chat to Cuillin back at the bothy…he had a more relaxing day fishing after his heroic efforts on Meith Bheinn and An Stac the day before.


When we left, the clouds came in and it started to rain on the Oban Bothy. Who could have had a luckier weekend?


Oh, and Druim a Chuirn was my 400th Scottish sub 2k. 🤣

EDIT 2023. Since we did this trip Viv de Fresnes’ bosses, the riparian owners of Loch Morar, have told him they do not wish the loch boat to be involved in these enterprises. So this "softies" route is no longer possible unless you take your own Kayak. MalkyC tried this and had a nasty accident.

Sadly Cuillin, the elder statesman of Scottishhills (though considerably younger than us), who never fell out with anyone and whose wise advice was willingly given to all, started to feel bad around the time of his Graham Compleation. He mailed me that he had almost cancelled and that he couldn’t quite put a finger on what was wrong. What was happening was early dementia, and he is now in a Care Home. None of his wonderful trip reports survive, so this is dedicated to him in memory of the amazing times he had solo and in company on the Scottish Mountains.

[Roundfella]

I enjoyed (re-)reading this - and the weather looks good. I love that time of year. Thank you for more Crusoe-style salvage work from the wreck of Shills.

[Graeme D]

I understand that not everyone may agree, but I would always welcome the potential for what Mr Dempster refers to as "entertaining scrambling" even if it may often be something of a euphemism!

An excellent report of what is an outing into extremely rugged and remote hillwalking territory. I remember reading of Malky's misadventures on Loch Morar when attempting a similar exploit and I know my mate John attempted the same as you under his own steam a few years back but after kayaking in and doing the Sub2K, he was too gubbed to tackle An Stac itself. I still have it to do, as well as Meith Bheinn and the other one across from Sgurr an Utha, and have often pondered the various options for a future assault on all or some.

Good work too on the salvaging of old historic reports and keeping some of Cuillin's adventures in the spotlight now that he is sadly no longer able to do this himself. I too made the mistake of using the dastardly Photobucket for a period of time a few years back but thankfully also kept back ups of everything so have lost (almost) nothing stretching back to the beginnings of my own hillwalking exploits 15 years ago.

[Sgurr]

I still have it to do, as well as Meith Bheinn and the other one across from Sgurr an Utha, and have often pondered the various options for a future assault on all or some.
.

You could probably just walk both on a long summer day. We had intended adding it on to Meith Beinn, but R was already beginning to slow down, and I didn't feel much stronger. I am sure you are younger than 74,,, the age at which we did them.

[Graeme D]

I still have it to do, as well as Meith Bheinn and the other one across from Sgurr an Utha, and have often pondered the various options for a future assault on all or some.
.

You could probably just walk both on a long summer day. We had intended adding it on to Meith Beinn, but R was already beginning to slow down, and I didn't feel much stronger. I am sure you are younger than 74,,, the age at which we did them.

I am indeed younger than 74 although if they could talk for themselves, I have a funny feeling my knees would claim to be considerably older than the rest of me. It is my sincere hope that should I be spared to the age of 74 and indeed beyond, my knees and the rest of me will still be willing and able to undertake exploits such as these!