Brothers, Sisters (Wee Fun Day) Above the Clouds Thang

[Shevek17]

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Part 1 BROTHERS

After returning from Torridon earlier in the month my round was almost done. Any technical manouvres left on the hills were now complete. Four seperate day walks remained, the North Glen Shiel Ridge being the most demanding due to my decision to do the whole east to west traverse as one hike. When a fantastic weather prediction appeared for my Birthday we planned an early start and set off. I knew this particular walk was not one to waste on a mediocre forecast, yet I couldn't have anticipated just what a fantastic day was in store. This outing became one of my great experiences on the hills. Truly unforgettable.

Arriving at Cluanie in good time for an 0645 start I passed the 'Bakehouse' that I'd anecdotally described to friends as a new 'Bunkhouse' when it was still under construction. No such luck in the modern Highlands. Despite my anticipation it was a bit murky contrary to expectations and I set off somewhat concerned that this might yet turn out to be a walk through the clag.

Cluanie

The first hour was a fairly standard grind up the side of Coire nan Each. The thought of an inversion crossed my mind and I started to get my hopes up however disappointment had struck in previous walks so for now they remained tempered. My mind wandered back over past trips to Kintail, one of my favourite areas of the country, particularly camp outs on the summit of Sgurr nan Conbhairen and Sgorr a Doire Leathain the previous year across the A87, the latter indeed providing a great vista above the cloudline in the early morning light.

Sun just above

Soon it became clear that my luck was in today, the top of the mist was already close at point 843 on the beginning of the ridge and with nearly 200 metres ascent still to spare I would surely climb above the layer.

Almost there

Looking west

Above the clouds

Upon reaching the first Top, Sgurr an Fhuarail, nearby Munros spread out like Islands before me to the east and north.

East to A 'Chralaig

It was still early and wagering that these conditions would continue for a while I settled in for a morning stroll along the ridge dipping up and down out of the cloud. Brocken Spectres and Fog Bows appeared and disappeared before my arrival at the summit of the first Munro of the day, Aonach Meadhoin.

Aonach Meadhoin summit

Brocken Spectre

Taking in the panorama I shook my head and muttered some swearwords under my breath in tribute to Scottish hillwalking on days like this.

Before long it was back down again into the mist briskly moving along the ridgeline in keen anticipation of making it back up and above for the next viewpoint.

Sgurr a Bhealaich Dheirg lay slightly off the main path to the north. After clambering up the surprisingly large summit cairn I then doubled back and rejoined the main drag glancing around to observe this promontary, facing the south sides of Bheinn Fhada and Sgurr nan Ceathramhnan across the cloud chasm.

The inversion was finally beginning to clear in parts, Glen Shiel and Glen Lichd were visible far below beneath gaps in the wisp. Upon reaching the cairn on Saileag, the summit was still in cloud but it wasn't long before the view west along the ridge started to properly open out under clear blue sunshine and a superb clarity of light on the mountains

Saileag summit

The Five Sisters of Kintail now started to appear to the west looking more and more fantastic as I eventually descended down to the normal connecting point of the two walks on the Bealach an Lapain.

Starting to clear

Down to the A87

Looking west to rest of the walk.

Part 2 SISTERS

After pausing for a bite to eat I set off again up towards Sgurr nan Spainteach turning around to take in the magnificent view back along the Brothers Ridge. It was surprising just how quickly the clouds had disappeared altogether.

Looking back to Brothers Ridge

The north-west swing of the ridge was clear ahead with the rollercoaster of the three remaining Munros looking mighty in the distance.

Spainteach

The next section involved the hardest work since the intital pull out of Cluanie and it took some time before the summit of Spainteach was reached with Sgurr na Ciste Dubh looking magnificent underneath the blue sky.

Jagged outline

Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe

It was rough and rocky to ascend to the top but I was rewarded with yet another stunning viewpoint. The Forcan ridge and The Saddle were prominent to the south over the road with row upon row of hills opening out to Sgritheall and the Cuilins in the distance.

The Glen looking magnificent

Back east to Spainteach

After applying another layer of Factor 50 I started the final rough climb up to SnCD and reached the top where I paused for a spot of lunch watching the cars whizz far below on the A87. It was a real perch up on this corner of the ridge where Loch Duich and the sea now came prominently into view.

The descent down to the Bealach na Craoibhe was straightforward and I was soon clambering up Carnach making a little ground up on a group of walkers ahead. The Loch was nicely framed by Sgurr an t-Searraich above and I wondered if this bump was classified as a Marilyn but after checking when I got home it didn't appear to be. It must hold a fantastic view nonetheless.

Loch Duich appears

Loch Duich below Sgurr an-t Searraich

Coming down off Carnach made for the rockiest section of the day and I took my time, the little remaining shade left in the middle of a hot afternoon was helpful at this stage in avoiding the heat and glare. The steep, impressive 200m south face of Fhuaran now loomed in front from the Bealach na Carnach.

Sgurr na Carnach

I comforted myself with the thought that most of my ascent for the walk was complete and this last Munro was the final work of the day. Without further ado I got on with the task in hand and picked my way up. It was mostly straightforward and I arrived at the cairn feeling elated and chatted for a while to a group of friendly hillwalkers form Inverness taking in the epic vista from this, the highest point of the whole ridge.

On SNF summit

SNF summit

View back along the Sisters Ridge

The Munros for the day now complete I coasted downhill amongst the lengthening shadows of the late afternoon toward the east face of Sgurr nan Saighead, yet another sight to behold.

Sgurr nan Saighead East Cliffs

I saw something stir on the cliffs above and initially thought it was some deer up to escape the clutches of the awful August keds. On closer inspection however they looked more like goats which made more sense in such a rocky environment.

Goat?

To be a purist I should probably have summited SnS but instead I halfheartedly followed the path flanking round its south ridge and began the final descent proper. Turning around Fhuaran still looked magnificent from below.

SNF from below

Coire na h-Uaighe NE Face.

It was a straightforward trudge down to the Allt a Chruinn stream in the glorious evening light. Crossing I joined the path on its north side and was grateful for how well constructed it was, stopping above the waterfall at the Bidean Dubh to gaze down at the causeway and Loch Duich before a final amble down to the road.

Looking down into Allt a'Chruinn and the causeway.

My friend had spent the day bagging in Skye and we timed the pick up on the A87 to within fifteen minutes. Not bad but still not as good as the Coulags Bridge two years earlier when we'd synchronized it to within 10 seconds. He'd climbed Beinn Damph and I Maol Chean-Dearg that day. A decent Silver Medal position nonetheless.

One solitary crisp Birthday beer in the still warm sunlight of the day tasted good before we set off for home. Feeling elated I reversed sight lines glancing up from the road toward this wonderful set of hills, and after about twenty minutes drive we passed the walk start point at Cluanie. All the Munros west of the Great Glen were now finished.