free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
Torridon’s Finest; Eagles & Views In March 2022 it was four months short from being three years since I had last convinced Eilish it would be a good idea to join me up a Munro – tragic statistic really... I tend to schedule hills to coincide with her weekend shifts, but with a beauty of a forecast there was no chance I was missing out on this weekend.
I knew parking up Torridon was often limited, so the alarm was set for 6am, which with the clocks changing was really 5am – grim. We were off driving north just 30 minutes later. It was an exceptionally foggy drive up towards Inverness and someone had crashed on the A96, so an almost immediate detour was on the cards. We took Eilish’s car which was continually steaming up… combined with lack of sleep this caused some delightful early morning tension. After pulling over it turned out to be user error of the heating system. No further comment your honour. Writing this nearly a year after the event, it’s remarkable what sticks in your memory.
Quick stop at my usual Tesco outside Inverness for some breakfast before arriving at Coulags and managing to just about get the last acceptable parking space. There were a few big groups setting of at roughly the same time as us.
See what I mean about the forecast – too good to miss!
Looking back towards the car
The footbridge after about 2.5km
Coire Gionnaraich Bothy
Lovely saltire
The walk in along down the glen was lovely and peaceful and on a great stalkers path, but I was a bit concerned with the awaiting scree, Eilish’s arch nemesis… We had a pre-departure briefing and I was assured I needn’t worry, but as an eternal pessimist, worry I did.
After a quick tour around the bothy, we remained slightly ahead of the larger group heading up towards Bealach a’ Choire Ghairbh but they were making exceptionally quick progress.
First view of An Ruadh-Stac peaking over the bealach
We opted to stop and get a bite to eat and something to drink whilst we let the larger group who it turned out were heading up Ruadh-Stac pass us. Inevitably they passed us before stopping almost immediately for their own break, and so began what felt like the annoying (in my opinion) continual leapfrogging over the next kilometre or two.
If I had been on my own there is every chance I would have altered the route to also include a jaunt up Ruadh-Stac. I would most definitely return – plus a swim in Loch a’Mhadiadh Ruadh on a nice summers’ day looks very appealing!
An Ruadh-Stac in all its glory
When we reached the 587m marker, just below the scree, we stopped for our main lunch. Backs intentionally towards the scree whilst we enjoyed the view southwest.
I then saw what I assumed was a raven, who frequently appear on first rustling of sandwich wrapping. Only to quickly realise that the ‘raven’ was in actual fact significantly further away – bit like the Father Ted cow sketch.
I thought I may have seen an eagle in the past, but the saying of “you will know when you have” is most definitely true. The size was astonishing.
Some photos
I didn’t have the camera in the right settings to get any good snaps, but rather than fart about with technology I gambled that one or two of the photos would be enough to identify the birds later, and I would be better placed enjoy nature as intended.
Another solo walker joined us soon after the birds disappeared who suggested it was either a Golden or Sea Eagle. I had assumed they were Golden Eagles, based purely on the immense size, but later online research suggests they were both White Tailed Eagles (or Sea Eagles – don’t want to offend any ornithologists but there was a lot of strong opinions on correct naming on the world wide web).
Conclusion fully white tailed = adult
White/brown tailed = juvenile.
Either way it was quite a remarkable encounter given they were so close. In the 3-5 minutes the glided overhead I don’t think we once seen them flap their wings, rather effortlessly scanned the ground below – hopefully not at my sandwich… When they did depart the speed that the soared off was equally impressive – gone from sight within seconds!
Sort of surprised it had taken me so long to Sea (get it) an Eagle in person, but well worth the wait.
The excitement was enough for us both to make light work up the relatively minor* (*subjective) scree section from the 587m to 757m.
The scree
A bit higher up now
View towards the summit
Looking back
Beinn Damh framed nicely
Now over the scree all the remained was a boulder field of some description. Thankfully all the rocks were bone dry and Eilish made light work, and we were now at the vast summit.
This Munro must be one of the finest summit viewpoints available. The views from west through north, to east are sensational. The view south isn’t half bad either!
Some snaps
Zoom of Torridon
We spent a good 30 minutes at the summit. It was warm enough for shorts as there was hardly a breath of wind. I tried not to bore Eilish by recalling too many stories from previous outings, or future planed trips. However, I couldn’t resist pointing out Beinn Alligin and the scramble over the Horns where I had dragged her back in 2017. She was far too polite back then to tell me to f off back then… Baptism of fire. Not a chance we’ll do that together again in the future.
It would have been easy to stay at the summit for hours, but the long return journey was looming, so we finished the Jelly Babies, packed up and began retracing our steps.
The return
Once comfortable with relaxing and letting yourself slide or surf down scree it’s far easier than going up. A nervous alternative is to lock your knees, slowly bum slide and make painstakingly slow progress where no good intentioned suggestions for improvement will be accepted or even worse appreciated.
The promise of an Inverness McDonald’s appeared to ease any potential bad feelings, as if it was ever not a guarantee. I put away the camera for now and we made the gentle stroll back towards the car in the glorious afternoon sun.
Nearly back at the car
I didn’t have the mental capacity to tolerate the monotonous A96 through Nairn, Forres, Elgin, Keith, Huntly and co. on route to Aberdeen, so opted for the more mentally stimulating, but slower, Lecht road.
Acknowledging my backlog of Walk Reports I have started keeping brief notes to remind myself of key events. Eilish found out the hard way that a burger and McFlurry don’t travel well inside one’s stomach.
I wouldn’t care to count the number of times I’ve now been over the Lecht but I’d safely say I know the road quite well. Some of Eilish’s quotes:
“I’ve never felt so anxious of a road”
“At least I don’t get thrown about on the A96”
“It’s good to get some g force every now and then”Back home at 21:30 – amazing what you can cram into 15 hours! I was gubbed at work on Monday, always a good sign!
Thanks for reading
Andy
