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The forecast was very promising from the start of the week, indications of a blocking high pressure system situated on the Northwest of Scotland. This tends to be one of those spells of weather that is spoken of in the weeks to come as a memorably rare nice period. I didn't quite know how memorable it would become due to those clear overnight skies. My parents hill bagging dream hub location near Spean Bridge was free due to grandchildren commitments so a plan was formed and thanks again Mum and Dad if you read this. I naively thought the midweek snowfall would have stuck on the higher tops so for me a sunrise traverse of the Devils Ridge from Sgurr a'Mhaim with a planned descent route of Stob Ban's North Ridge would be a bucketlist winter mountaineering day.
- Our previous visit to the Ring of Steall on a hot April's day
As we drove through Glencoe the light and visibility on display indicated a beautiful sunset to come. I couldn't help but notice the complete lack of snow, but I still had hope for the larger tops of the Mamores. We stopped off near Onich for a dip in Loch Linnhe and the skies continued to clear as we made it to my childhood home.
- Loch Linnhe Sunset on Saturday evening
The stars were out and an aurora notification meant we rushed to the north facing back garden and could see the glow of the northern lights which my Mum amusingly refers to as fish farm light pollution, just a regular occurrence on a clear winters night.
- Just light coming from the fish farm
I set off from the Lower Falls car park at around 4am, ice axes and crampons packed with hope. No wind meant a sweaty ascent despite the minus temperatures. As I got higher it became more and more apparent the winter tools would not be required for this outing.
- From the summit of Sgurr a'Mhaim
Just after 6am and I was on the summit of Sgurr a'Mhaim. I knew fairly early the complete lack of cloud meant no cloud inversion but I also suspected the tropical orange band in the horizon associated with such clear mornings.
- Looking towards the Kinlochleven munros
- Ben Nevis holding the last of the snow
The snowy traverse I had in my head was not manifesting but instead a perfect Spring day in February! I couldn't be too disappointed as the weather was perfect - this was no hyperbole.
- Pre-dawn on the Devils Ridge
There was barely a breath of wind, the visibilty was pin-point clear and the surrounding peaks of the Mamores and Lochaber traverse felt like a stone's throw because of the clear vistas.
- Lochaber traverse
- Distinctive Stob Ban and the Grey Corrie's looking NE
I started making my way across the not so devilish 'Devils Ridge' with very few difficulties but lots of incredible views of Glencoe, Bidean nam Bian the stand-out mountain in sight, so often I find this the most impressive peak in skyline views.
- Bidean looking impressive
By around 7am I had made it to the top of relegated Munro of Sgurr an Iubhair and hung around for the sunrise here. An exceptional viewpoint as now the hidden Ben behind Sgurr a Mhaim comes into view and a broader scope looking South emerges.
- Looking back to Sgurr a'Mhaim
- Another amazing perspective of Ben Nevis at Sunrise
The sun rose behind the steep sided Munro of Am Bodach and provided some beautiful orange light illuminating the once intimidating landscape into an unseasonally bright and dry place.
- Sunrise behind Am Bodach
- The route along to Am Bodach from Sgurr an Iubhair
I lingered for quite a while here as it was so idyllic, quiet and peaceful.
- Glencoe in the morning light
I looked across to Stob Ban and considered my original plan of descending the North Ridge and although the morning was perfect I also wanted to get back to the other half who along with her sister planned on seeing the 'Hogwarts Express' at the Glenfinnan Viaduct due to be seen around 1045am. I thought I could probably make it, the original plan being to meet them for lunch in Arisaig.
- Glowing sunrise
A poor sleep (or lack of) and my unwillingness to reascend up to Stob Ban made my decision. I thought it best to leave it for a snowier outing altogether, perhaps with an ascent of the South Gully of Stob Ban. Rather than feeling like an unfinished outing it created a new one. The great paths in the Nevis Range area made the descent particularly straightforward and I could enjoy the windless stroll in the crisp winter air.
- Stob Ban (Mamores) looking spectacular
Down by 930 I knew I could make it to Glenfinnan in time to meet the girls. We arrived and met at the designated Viaduct viewpoint. With the trampled slopes of a hundred thousand footsteps, the enormous carpark and man-made constructions it was not my cup of tea but Chelsea was keen to capture this photographers 'must capture' moment on a bluebird day. 1058 comes and the regular two-carriaged ScotRail service to Mallaig hastily travelled over the Viaduct. Hilariously, the driver gave out a 'haar haar' toot that resembled Nelson Muntz from the Simpsons. Us along with the 30 or so tourists and photographers sat bemused at our failed expectations. Only for me to realise the Jacobite Express runs seasonally. So although it looks like a summers day it wasn't on the train timetable.
- ScotRail service to Mallaig even manages to look aesthetic on this fine day
Lunch in Arisaig then a visit to Traigh beaches. A tropical paradise under blue skies which is normally so impacted by campervans was surprisingly empty. An old firm contest and Scotland in the Six Nations I suspected helped this. We had the rugby on the radio, the paddle board on the water and soaked in the sun. A trait I've picked up from my mum and grandad, from Caithness it's no surprise that any sun was taken full advantage of.
- Actually managing to stand on Chelsea's Stand up Paddleboard
The sunset was sensational, the Rum and Skye Cuillin outlines looking other worldly on the blank multi-coloured cloudless canvas. On learning there's no chippy open in Mallaig we headed on home.
- Outline of Black Cuillin
- West is Best
On our way back down the road, Chelsea was getting aurora notifications specifically 'run to the hills' and along the lines of it was going to be special. We were heading towards Drumochter and the elevated road before Dalwhinnie seemed like a no bad shout to gaze North.
- This most definitely wasn't just light pollution
This blew any previous aurora sightings we'd seen out the water, even the Beinn Achaladair summit camp sighting we had did not come close. The swooping, swishing and dancing shapes of green, pink and red continued across the sky for the entire time we spent roadside with the phone camera set up. An incredible weekend that will live long in the memory for the three of us.
- Surreal experience in a layby near Dalwhinnie