Dangerous Boss Monster on the loose around Ben Lawers

[zatapathique]

Our last day of hiking for this year dawned beautifully with a clear blue sky and a positive weather forecast. Fourteen Munros bagged so far, but none of the Ben Lawers group of Munros, even though we had our accommodation in Killin, right next to it. I had been pondering about how to combine these Munros during all our stay in Killin, and even before leaving for Scotland. The summits are so close together, there had to be a more "efficient" way than to do three separate walks. For this reason, I had avoided the Ben Lawers group so far during our holiday, but when Reinhold announced to me in the morning that his knees wouldn't allow any further hiking, I instantly knew what to do. The thought had been in the back of my head for the past ten days: Do. Them. All. In one day.

With Reinhold driving me to Lawers Hotel and then spending the day exploring sights of the area with more or less level walks, there was no need for me to get back to my starting point. We agreed that I'd message him to come to Ben Lawers car park when I had climbed either five or seven summits, depending on the time of day, my fitness, and the state of my boots, which was pretty sorry by then.

The sole of the right boot had come loose up to almost a third of its length, and was kept in place by some MacGyver tape which I had bought the previous day. The cavity under the heel of the left boot had grown ever larger and caused my foot to incline inwards with every step. Not healthy for the knees. When going uphill, this was not a problem, as my weight would be on the tip of the shoe anyway. Going downhill was an altogether different question, this meant double strain on the knee.

Boots, taped and ready. Maybe.

From Lawers Hotel, I walked along the road, which was still empty at 8:30 in the morning, to the bridge over the Lawers Burn, behind which I turned left to follow the burn upstream on a track, then a path beneath the trees. A stile led me over the fence and onto the open hillside. The first Munro of the day, Meall Greigh, and its southern summit Sròn Mhòr were well visible. At this point already, I noticed that the quality of my taping was not good, the tape already started to come off.

Start in beautiful weather

Meall Greigh in view

The path climbed steadily upwards, revealing more and more of Ben Lawers, until I finally could see Lochan nan Cat below An Stùc. The east ridge of Ben Lawers, which then curves towards the north and the lochan, looked very fine to walk as well. It was one of the options I had considered before deciding to go for maximum. Two hours after setting out, I reached the summit of Meall Greigh. Time for a second breakfast while enjoying the magnificent view. A very nice man from "behind Aberfoyle" soon joined me, and we had a little chat before he left first. Beneath the higher cirrus clouds, some cumuli had already begun to form. It wouldn't rain today, would it?

On Meall Greigh. Ben Lawers, the top Creag an Fhithich, An Stùc, Meall Garbh, and Lochan nan Cat

The ridge to follow

The walk along the ridge to Meall Garbh was pure joy. Easy going, good views, finally warm enough to walk in short sleeves after the past quite cold nine days. At Meall Garbh's small southern summit, I had caught up again with the Aberfoyle man, and we had another chat on the real summit before he again left first. While I was having a sandwich, a fell runner whizzed past, telling me he'd be right back after a brief visit to the southern summit. Said and done, he was back in no time, and on his way back to An Stùc. For me, this was not back, but onwards, and I soon followed him. Slowly.

On Meall Garbh, An Stùc ahead, Ben Lawers to the left, Beinn Ghlas and Meall Corranaich in the back

Bild5640 - Bild5710 Pano by Henry Volt
Panorama from Meall Garbh, stretching from Ben Lawers to Meall Greigh. This is almost 270°. Click to see large.

Behind Meall Garbh, the path dropped down for 120 m or so, and from down there, An Stùc looked quite intimidating. However, the path wound its way up to the summit without difficulties. For the last time, I caught up with Mr. Aberfoyle, who would return back to Lawers Hotel via Lochan nan Cat. There were also two ladies on the summit, but apparently in no mood to talk, and they soon left. As usual, I spent too much time on the summit, giving the clouds over Ben Lawers ample time to grow into genuine rain clouds. It was already half past noon, and I had to hurry a bit if I wanted to complete all seven Munros. Especially when looking West, over to the ridge with Meall Corranaich and Meall a' Choire Lèith. The latter seemed so close, just opposite from An Stùc, but I had to follow the long horseshoe via Ben Lawers and Beinn Ghlas.

Looking back to Meall Garbh from An Stùc

Aussie hat on An Stùc, Ben Lawers looming behind

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Lochan nan Cat and Ben Lawers. Click to see large.

After sending the third summit photo of the day to Reinhold, I finally left this beautiful viewpoint and tried to make good some time. Behind the Bealach Dubh, ever more people came pouring down Ben Lawers. It had been a long time since I had seen so many people in the hills, but the "worst" was yet to come.
I made sure to go over the tiny Munro top summit of Creag an Fhithich before pulling up the north ridge of Ben Lawers on a well-trodden path.

Lochan nan Cat with An Stùc, Meall Garbh, and Meall Greigh behind

Ben Lawers summit and the crowd ahead

Already from the distance, I could see quite a crowd on the summit. I wasn't sure if the cairn or the trig point were the summit, so I touched them both.
There was definitely no privacy for my secret summit ritual up here, so I went some distance along the east ridge to perform it. At the occasion, I also re-taped my right shoe, for maybe the third time already until then. I had merely sat down when the shower I had been anticipating for quite a while already finally started. Time to leave.

Busy Ben Lawers summit

The highway up Ben Lawers

On the way down the path to Beinn Ghlas, there were so many people coming up and going down, it was almost like in a city. And I thought "What strange people these are! The topics they talk about! Their looks! And why does this guy very visibly pee on a rock with me approaching not far behind him?". Of course it soon dawned on me that these were perfectly normal people, just not people who go to the hills every possible free day. Ah, the path to prejudice is so awfully short, and well entertained. So was the Ben Lawers path, and a lone path worker saw to it that it got even better by carefully placing new stones.

Behind the bealach between Ben Lawers and Beinn Ghlas, things got calmer, as most people returning from Ben Lawers bypassed Beinn Ghlas to the right. Going up Beinn Ghlas did not feel like climbing a Munro, and I thought the summit with its tiny cairn was a bit of a disappointment, too. Hardly noticeable. The rain had gotten stronger again, and I was looking for a sheltered place for my summit ritual, when a man approached wearing the exact same Aussie hat as me. "Nice hat!" I said. "I am inclined to say the same thing." he replied. We both agreed that is was perfect to protect our heads from the rain, the sun, anything. After he had gone on, I finally found an almost sheltered space to sit down, squeezed between two rocks a bit below the summit, and ate my last sandwich.

Ben Lawers from Beinn Ghlas. And yes, the tiny collection of rocks in the bottom center of the photo is the summit cairn

Meall Corranaich and Meall a' Choire Lèith from Beinn Ghlas

Now what to do? Go to the Ben Lawers car park, not too far away, or go for the last two Munros? My mood could have been better at this point, after the crowd on Ben Lawers, disappointing Beinn Ghlas, the rain and the low temperatures that came with it (No more short sleeves since Ben Lawers - pullover and rain coat!), and wait! Is that actually sleet pattering on the rain cover of my backpack?! It is!
Oh well, the heck with it! It was only 3:30 pm, my legs felt as good as ever, so why stop now? I informed Reinhold that I would go for no. 6 and 7, and that I would still be out in the hills for a few more hours.
As if my decision to go on had had an impact on the weather, it soon stopped raining (and it would't rain anymore for the remaining day), and I went on down the west flank of Beinn Ghlas. This was quite steep, and my left knee began to hurt because of the awkward inward inclination due to the broken sole. There was no way of taping that one, although I had briefly considered filling the gap with small pebbles, than tape it shut to support the heel. It was a relief when I finally arrived at the lowest point.

On the way down Beinn Ghlas. From right to left: Beinn Ghlas, Ben Lawers, Meall Garbh's double summit, An Stùc

Now up Meall Corranaich, the last relatively steep ascent of the day. Persistence is key, I thought, and mechanically set one foot before the other ("stomp"), and used the one pole I carried with each second step ("click"). The tape on my right boot was gone (I had given up taping it after the fifth or sixth time, my trouser pockets were full of torn and dirty tape), and the sole flapped with each step. Stomp, stomp, click, flap. Stomp, stomp, click, flap. Stomp, stomp, click, flap. Aussie hat, sunglasses, determined (= grim) face.

This is how I went up the hill, approaching a young couple going up a bit ahead of me. In my imagination, I felt like the boss monster in an old computer game. You couldn't escape it, even if it was slower than you, because it persevered and just followed you no matter what. The couple was doomed, at least the woman. That much was clear. Her partner was ahead of her, going at a rather constant speed, probably out of reach for the monster. But she was easy prey. She made some few quick steps, got out of breath, paused. And again. Quick quick quick, pause, breathe. And again. It almost looked as if she was fleeing from me. From Zata the Blue Wanderer with his Aussi Hat of Shelter, his Black Sunglasses of Hidden Eyes, his +1 Walking Stick of Persistance, ... and his -2 Boots of Doom. When I was only a couple of steps behind her, she gave up, left the path to the side, and stood there motionless, fearing the worst. Was she trembling, or was it just my imagination? I couldn't help but grinning when I passed her, and told her to try walking more slowly, but constantly.
When she finally came to the summit to join her boyfriend and me, and heard that Meall Corranaich was my sixth Munro of the day, she said I must have Legs of Steel. Yes. I clearly forgot to mention these in my list of equipment.

The +1 Balancing Pole of Summit Decoration on Meall Corranaich. In the back from ltr: An Stùc in front of Meall Garbh, the top Creag an Fhithich, Ben Lawers. I had come from afar with my legs of steel...

The last target of the day in sight. Don't go too far left, the nice ridge in the center of the photo is not the one you want to follow, even though it seems to point directly to Meall a' Choire Lèith.

An older couple joined us on the summit as well, and we had a nice chat. Then, as usual, everybody else but me left. After having feasted my eyes enough with the panorama, I drank some of my Potion of Stamina and ate a couple of Cookies of Leg Boosting before going on. It's almost a stroll from Meall Corranaich to Meall a' Choire Lèith, but you need to pay attention not to go too far left. I had read about that in the walk description, but the terrain almost tricked me into following the wrong ridge. I think this will inevitably happen in bad visibility. When I almost feared that Meall a' Choire Lèith would be as harmless a Munro as Beinn Ghlas, the path steepened, and after a little and welcome effort, I found myself at the summit of the seventh and final Munro not only of the day, but also of our 2022 trip to Scotland. The nice older couple was just leaving, and we exchanged a few words about the best way down.

On Meall a' Choire Lèith

Bild6240 - Bild6300 Pano by Henry Volt
The Lawers range from Meall a' Choire Lèith. Click to see large.

Bild6340 - Bild6390 Pano by Henry Volt
The Lawers range from Meall a' Choire Lèith, a bit closer. Meall Garbh, an Stùc, Creag an Fhithich, Ben Lawers, Beinn Ghlas, Meall Corranaich. Almost all the summits of the day, only Meall Greigh is hidden behind Meall Garbh. Seems far, but no match for legs of steel, despite Boots of Despair... Click to see large.

One thing is sure: my route down was definitely not the best way. I went over pathless ground, which was hard on my hurting left knee. There was a kind of worn path, but I did not find it. I only saw it later when I was already down at the Allt Gleann Da-Eig. I went straight for the concrete water intake, and for quite some time, it looked as if crossing the burn there was possible. It wasn't, as the intake did not extend to the other side. However, the crossing was easily possible a bit upstream from the intake.

The water intake not quite all the way across the Allt a' Chobhair

A perfect place to cross, good to find with the boulder

From here, it was uphill again to reach the road behind the last ridge of the day. This last section was very boggy, and bog occupied my mind. I dubbed a white butterfly with black spots which landed in the squishy muck "mudflap", and I thought of the Burn of Edramucky, which flows down Ben Lawers, as "Extramucky". When I finally reached the road, it was a big relief, and I almost kissed it. It had a freshly made surface. The road had been closed for the past weeks, causing us the odd detour on our way to the starting points of various walks. The road being closed was also the reason why I had arranged to meet Reinhold at Ben Lawers car park, as the road was open up to this point, and closed beyond.

It's rare that I am happy to see a road, but I'd really had enough of bog at this point

Soon, two bikes approached - the older couple I had met on the last two Munros. They were on their way to Glen Lyon, intending to pitch up their tent somewhere. Tents. There were many of them, and I wondered how all these people had managed to get here with their cars despite the closed road. When two cars actually passed me, coming from Lawers Dam, I realised that the road must be open again. Reinhold could have picked me up where I hit the road! However, as the evening was nice and the surface good, I decided against calling him and continued to Ben Lawers car park, where he was already waiting for me.

Lochan na Lairige and Lawers Dam in the evening light

I took off my worn and damaged boots, and thanked them for holding out until the end. Well done, boots!

Epilogue: Zatapathique does not throw anything away easily. Mrs. Zatapathique can tell you a thing or two about it. I took the sorry boots back home, and even though I thought them beyond repair, I brought them to my trusted outdoor shop. They said "no problem" and sent them "home" to Bavaria. A few weeks later, they were as good as new and are now eager to be strapped on again in Scotland, in June 2023, on the Isle of Skye. Everything is already booked by the time I am writing this, including a guide for the In Pinn. Now I only hope the weather gods will be with me...

Boots, before and after. Ready to go again!

Altitude profile

[Graeme D]

I took the sorry boots back home, and even though I thought them beyond repair, I brought them to my trusted outdoor shop. They said "no problem" and sent them "home" to Bavaria. A few weeks later, they were as good as new and are now eager to be strapped on again in Scotland, in June 2023, on the Isle of Skye.

Vorsprung durch Technik for boots!

Nice wee bagging trip to Scotland. Good luck for the 2023 version.

[zatapathique]

I took the sorry boots back home, and even though I thought them beyond repair, I brought them to my trusted outdoor shop. They said "no problem" and sent them "home" to Bavaria. A few weeks later, they were as good as new and are now eager to be strapped on again in Scotland, in June 2023, on the Isle of Skye.

Vorsprung durch Technik for boots!

Nice wee bagging trip to Scotland. Good luck for the 2023 version.

Thank you!

Yes, it's good that the manufacturers offer this service so that you don't have to buy new shoes. And it saves rescources as well. However, I was quite scolded at when I picked them up in my trusted outdoor shop after the repair. The lady at the cash desk made it very clear to me that from now on, these boots are to be waxed regularly, or else!

I admit I was a bit negligent on that point , and they do look much better when they are waxed.

[Mal Grey]

That's quite a trip, even with working boots! Fair play

I like that you always seem to manage to spend time on summits. Its a lovely thing to do, but I have a nasty habit of getting to the top, taking loads of pictures, briefly having a snack then heading down. I've been making an effort to spend more time just sitting and looking instead.

[zatapathique]

That's quite a trip, even with working boots! Fair play

I like that you always seem to manage to spend time on summits. Its a lovely thing to do, but I have a nasty habit of getting to the top, taking loads of pictures, briefly having a snack then heading down. I've been making an effort to spend more time just sitting and looking instead.

Thank you. Yes, I love just sitting on a summit and enjoying the view. However, sometimes it is maybe not so clever. When you have planned to climb seven summits, spending half an hour on each summit means 3.5 hours extra...
For example, I hadn't thought of that when I walked the Fisherfield 6 in one day, which really was almost a whole day in the end (22 hours), in part due to me spending more than half an hour on each of the six summits...

[dogplodder]

Love that the ailing boots made it over all those summits.... and have now been restored to fight another day. In our throw away culture that's so good to hear.

[gammy leg walker]

Lovely write up, looking forward to reading your Skye 2023 TRs