The Girl is Crying in her Latte

[weaselmaster]

Sparks' new single is this week's title tune - if you haven't seen the video for it, check it out - Russell and Ron being themselves whilst Cate Blanchett dances around insanely. Cool and catchy.

We had another extra day tagged onto this weekend, the last of Allison's annual leave to be used up by the end of the week. A complication, however, was that we also had a gig to go to in Edinburgh on Sunday night, so the would have to be fitted in somehow. Would it be nice weather or would it snow? Would Allison's various skeletal problems hold up to another weekend away - especially as she reported a new problem with her knee midweek. Challenges, challenges...

I decided that something involving a lot of track would be good and that we could head up Glencoe way and do the awkward Graham pair of Creag Ghanach (which sounds like a chocolate filling) and Beinn na Cloiche. We'd done them, about a year ago, along with Glas Bheinn and Leum Uilleum, which had been a thoroughly enjoyable outing. Not needing the Corbetts this time would make it a less demanding round and allow us to make use of the track running alongside Loch Eilde Mor, which would be a new place for us. I'd managed to get our kit dried off on Wednesday - everything had been really wet after our Mull experience and with only 1 day spare before we headed off again, to have a good drying day was more than useful.

We set off on Thursday as usual, making for a pitch we often use near Kinlochleven. A lot of rain overnight - we wakened to pools of water all around the tent. Plus there had been some aquatic creature engaging in horseplay overnight, splashing in and out of the water, sounding like it was having a great time. Allison thought otter, I thought orca. We packed up and headed to the Ice Factory, where we left the car and with our overnight packs it was once again into the breach. Or something.

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Off to the Grey Mare's Tail route up to Loch Eilde Mor, no-one else around. Any other time we've been up here it's either been head up to Sgurr Eilde Mor or cross to the other side of the loch for Glas Bheinn. Here we were just going straight on, the stony track leading off into the distance. Quite a bit of water running off the hillside after last night's rain - did make me a little concerned about crossing the Abhainn Rath. In between Loch Eilde Mor and Beag is the substantial ruin of a building - thicker walls than one might normally expect in a dwelling, I thought, but no idea what it once was. Now it serves to collect various unsavoury items of litter from those walking by . We paused for lunch on the side of the track just past it.

31D25321-39FD-47FC-A1E3-CABCC581F515_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

1843D3C4-7B0C-4AB1-BEE4-89CA450A9E85_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

The track continues, with many deep puddles across it - many filled with amphibian life rejoicing in spring - until we'd left the lochs behind and turned towards the Grey Corries. Ahead we could see Luibeilt - minus its roof. I guess this must have been a lodge in the old days - two stories, quite imposing and a great location. We nosed around, found a worryingly enormous bird box on one of the pines and then prepared for the river crossing. We'd crossed this last time on the stepping stones at Staonaig, which was alright. There's a "ford" marked on the map by Luibeilt and luckily today the river was neither too deep not too fast - we used our water shoes and it wasn't over knee height. Not one to try crossing in spate though. From here the plan was to walk along the north bank of the Abhainn Rath until we neared Creag Ghuanach. I couldn't resist having a wee nosey into Meanach bothy. I'd imagined this would be a relatively rarely visited place, with Staonaig and A'Chiarain getting the majority of the traffic but no! There was someone's gear already in there, and from the bothy book, 3 other visitors had been today already, and it was only just after lunch time

F2D8949A-C747-4805-9B12-C804730A4FCC_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Grey Corries
D349903E-2BC1-4051-BA41-706AB891571C_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Luiblelt
7D5D62FE-0D01-4082-9277-BACD21654F02_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Bird box for big bird...
9D97D6EC-E53D-4706-8990-464A88E01A32_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Crossing the Abhainn Rath
CD4BAC09-8AF2-40C7-8B3B-56AEAD15F658_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

1C35B0BC-31AB-42E8-810E-3F277E417462_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Meanach bothy
F99EEE9D-8F11-45B6-9BE1-8402F57F9C79_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

We squelched along the path by the river for a while, getting nearer to where I'd determined we'd head up to Ghuanach. I couldn't remember where we'd camped on our last visit, but I do remember there were not that many options due either to heathery tussocks or wet ground. We found a small hummock which we reckoned would do and pitched the tent, dumping all the gear we didn't need to take up the hill inside, then set off up the fairly gentle heathery slopes. As we gained height we could see the flat grassy area we'd camped in last time - where the Allt Gleann na Ghuibsachan joins the Abhainn Rath. Maybe we'd move the tent there when we got back. Anyway, the ascent was unremarkable apart from the scenery which kept improving as we climbed. The long sweep of Stob Coire Easain ahead of us, Loch Treig, The Ben still looking mean and wintery. Up to the rocky summit, drink in some views then descend.

B8D810CB-F30A-4C88-80BC-5B8AFB1D4936_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

3046EAA3-6787-4825-A18A-6A9F2FF48420_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

White topped Binnien Mor
9CF2F9A2-D834-4EE7-A91B-0CCD355F6A92_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Not a very inspiring view of the way up Ghuanach
83A81FCD-1F97-4A95-9CB6-9DAA677C2A8F_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Stob Coire Easain
46710A5E-DDB4-400D-BE99-A93C7076A1DB_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

EF3E13E7-1206-460A-979C-F0CDEAC2127F_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

E5A5433E-7573-48A6-A468-A20113750251_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

71234E66-C5A5-45D4-B2B5-F9DD7F60393E_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

E7BB9DC7-726F-4326-96CB-50B354AD0D28_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

We decided we would move the tent, not least because we were right on the footpath where we were and given the number of people that seemed to have been about already today (judging by the bothy book) we didn't want passers by. So we packed up and set off along the river a bit, finding a shingly spot to cross. My was it cold and faster flowing here, but again easy enough today. We found an ideal spot on the south side of the river and set up camp, enjoying our meal out in the open air until it became too cold to sit any longer. A nice quiet night, no aquatic creatures paying visits tonight.

D791CF8D-01CA-440E-A669-9D49B3E44156_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Crossing the Abhainn Rath again
9139C92B-E41E-4F43-BC12-E753C109BF73_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

59BA62BF-95DA-4B61-9340-50D33FFF16A8_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Next morning we considered what to do. We could leave the tent and climb Beinn na Cloiche, then return along the south bank of the river to join our outward path by Loch Eilde Mor. Or we could stick to the original plan and head over Beinn na Cloiche making for A'Chiarain and take the long path back to Kinlochleven via Blackwater Reservoir. We decided on the latter, which I think was right. There was some marshy ground to cross before the slopes up Beinn na Cloiche began. I picked up and ATV track which helped ease the journey a bit until it headed north rather than south. Summit reached, the wind had got up with a chill factor, so we hunkered behind some slabs for a bite to eat before heading off the hill to the SE, aiming for A'Chiarain bothy. I would like to stay there sometime - in the upstairs room with the wood panelling, but both times we've been here in the mid afternoon. Carried away some rubbish someone had thoughtfully left in a poly bag hanging under the shelf and joined the path south, which isn't bad for the most part until you near the reservoir. You do have the option of the path that splits off to Coire na Cruaidhe, but that involves some considerable ascent, something we were not looking for today. So it was back along the pipeline path. We met a Dutch couple enjoying their day out, with plans for Bidean nam Bian tomorrow. Then we met several motorbikes from the Lochaber DMCC who were preparing for the race tomorrow - glad we didn't time it so that we were walking amidst the 180 bikes...

Towards Beinn na Cloiche
34496D31-2A9A-41B6-A074-F0DF691DB23C_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

A6C62FBF-307B-447B-BDA2-4AECA6715E24_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

9E062AC9-4E68-4BBE-A97F-946DA0A1E17E_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

57647C91-3E5F-4B68-B4D6-F9E11680BFDB_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

2308F450-B93A-4098-BA9E-11C285FDEDFE_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

A"Chiarain bothy
960DE08C-E424-42A8-90F7-42FBC844F5CC_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

BEM
8CB542C7-CBCA-47BA-A97B-576424107739_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

B01BAF96-D269-499D-963C-6C5D30911B34_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Allison commented that no matter where you are walking to Kinlochleven from, it alway s seems to take forever - over the Devil's Staircase; from the Mamores, from Blackwater - it always takes longer than you think. It was gone 5pm when we got back to the car. Now what? We needed a quick hill tomorrow and I thought Beinn Mhic Chasgaig would fit the bill, so why not head down Glen Etive? Well for one reason - it was a Saturday night and I hate camping anywhere down the glen. But we could look and see if the spot we had in mind was free...near the sheep transporter...We saw a couple tents pitched higher up the glen, which didn't fill us with hope, but yep - spot free. The rain was starting and the dark falling, so we pitched quickly on soggy ground and had our tea. Never that quiet in the glen - cars going up or down til late and then again from early morning. I'd made the mistake of drinking a can of coffee stout before bed, which didn't assist sleep. It had also been pretty cold, with a covering of new snow having fallen on the hillsides around. This approach to Mhic Chasgaig is by far the easiest and quickest - the only caveat being that you have the River Etive to cross. Last time we were here Allison broke a toe on the crossing. I'd been planning on this hill for a couple months now, but the river had always been too high when we'd considered it - I'd also drawn a nice loop route including two Simms, but that would have to be scrapped today because we needed to get to Edinburgh by mid/late afternoon. I sat and changed into my water shoes, Allison meanwhile was going to give it a try with boots and gaiters on...

2023-03-26_0901.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

B1C0C2F8-4F0E-4EB1-9C9A-AA16E4F49CD2_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

The water was really cold, the stones on the river bed rounded and sometimes slippy, but I was over with the water coming just over my knees. As I sat drying off my feet and putting my dry socks and boots on, I watched Allison venture into a deeper part that went up to mid thigh...then pull her boots off and wring out socks, liners etc. Not happy... The ascent itself is straightforward, following the north-east ridge up to the summit. There are some slabs to avoid lower down, then it's just easy going up to the top. A light covering of new snow meant we'd have our own footprints to follow on the way back down. The Buachaille behind us was looking superb as indeed were the other surrounding mountains. A fine morning, in some ways a pity we didn't have a longer hill day for today. But it was back to the car, via another cold crossing of the Etive and down the road.

376135A5-956C-467B-85B3-BB0CD6C12240_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

27EE1603-3CBF-4750-BE8F-9E0F0074A066_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

D2263C04-0026-45B6-A854-F338EA1EA1BA_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

5A0E66DE-2588-48C0-A871-41465B51B1FA_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Starav group
E6C7E955-97DB-4F8E-9EE2-3B2876E2B915_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

B73E7CF3-1B73-4A5B-A345-0D239AF13EE2_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

C607B0CA-2019-43A4-B7EE-C26F2E8A2884_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

08488C57-4CA3-4D46-A7A9-CF7864BD8C1E_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

1D0FBED7-90D0-4E4E-9F85-3C9A7D63DB60_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

0705D445-E24A-44B2-8BFE-A7B5BC7973F8_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

We reached Mortonhall campsite - our usual "home" in the Capital, for about 3.30, time to get the tent up and have a lovely hot shower before heading into town. Sunny when we left the campsite and waited for the bus - sleet by the time we got off and walked over The Meadows, planning to eat and have a pint in the Meadow Bar, which has a vegan kitchen. Or had...it has dematerialised, replaced by another bar altogether that didn't appear to do food, vegan or not...OK, what now? T'internet suggested a Malaysian vegan place over behind Surgeon's Hall - Soul Vegan. Very tasty, I'd recommend, if you like Asian food. And most of the other diners inside were Asian, which may also be a vote of confidence.

Back out into the intermittent drizzle, heading to The Voodoo Rooms to see Lisa O'Neill. A quick Guinness in the Abbotsford Arms then a lovely evening of entertainment - just the perfect venue (seated) for someone as quirky and fey as Lisa O'Neill. Something very "other-worldly" about that lady, in the nicest possible way. Back up in the bus, freezing but dry evening. Very cold overnight, ice on the tent in the morning. But sunshine!

With the clocks going forward and with having a late-ish night, we weren't up that early. Sat thawing out in the sun having breakfast at a picnic table listening to the birds - there had been owls last night, this morning there were woodpeckers, thrushes, corvids of varying type and other pretty birds neither of us knew what they were. Off into the icy sunshine, heading for Glasshouse Reservoir and a Moorfoot Circuit. We'd planned to do this back in December last when we were also in Edinburgh for the night, but heavy snow prevented us getting to the start of the route that time. No such problem today. We parked up in the "Private Car Park - For Hillwalkers Only" and set off into the sun, both wearing sunglasses, not expecting we'd have them on the full day. The first time I'd been here, back in 2016, there had been heavy snow on the hills and it was very hard work - "Scunnered in the Moorfoots" was the title of that report. The second time, just a few weeks later I had a really bad hangover and wanted to die whilst going round. So today was a good tonic for those two unhappy memories from seven years ago. We walked through the houses and up past the remains of Hirendean Castle, following the WH route. This brings you to a barbed wire fence, which has very long, sharp barbs, and which tore my Paramo trousers...damn stuff. There may be another path to take that does not involve having to cross the fence - if so, I'd suggest using it. We climbed up The Kipps, stopping to chat to a keeper on a quad machine. Then lunch before the boggy section over to Blackhope Scar. Although the ground had been frozen overnight, it was now thawing quickly in the sun. At the top of Blackhope we met a couple that had pulled into the car park as we were leaving - so they had clearly found an alternate and faster route up. And didn't have barbed-wire tears...

F9C27311-2094-4616-AE2D-EECC3691B173_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

C086F8E7-F768-414B-9CB4-B7167D131580_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

3B452CC8-291F-45E7-971B-8E9531D6FAA9_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Blackhope
2DAAEDE8-32FF-4A05-8D58-9FABB59F1AC1_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr


From here we continued over to the wind turbine populated Bowbeat Hill, enjoying lovely views back to Edinburgh and the Forth estuary. A very fine day indeed. Then onwards to Dundreich where we met a chap sitting at the cairn enjoying the weather and the views. We chatted for a time then descended back towards the reservoir. My GPS had experienced a malfunction, so I don't have the usual stats for today - but it took us about five and three quarter hours to get round, much the same as last time. The sunshine continued all the way home and it was lovely to have the lighter nights on their way back

Bowbeat
E55D917B-EFD6-4824-BCCD-6F5F0FEACD10_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

CB1DCD00-C30A-43F0-A11B-511C0951FFF2_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

Combination of snow and light make this clearing look metallic
BA4DBD5B-ABE6-4CF1-BE4F-E757AE52F1FB_1_201_a by Al, on Flickr

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