I guess it's an excuse to climb them again

[Christopher Pulman]

I visited the northern area of Wester Ross for the first time in 2020. Anyone who has driven the A835 towards Ullapool knows there are two points in the journey, less than a kilometre apart, where on a clear day the mountain views take your breath away. The first is the initial view of An Teallach, appearing over the horizon as you reach the Loch Glascarnoch dam. Although I had never seen it before, I immediately knew the peak ahead must be An Teallach and I promptly climbed it the day after. The second view comes soon after and is scarcely less spectacular: the magnificent Coire Granda between Beinn Dearg and Cona' Mheall appears off to the right.

The Beinn Dearg group from the A835 in better weather

I had been saving those Munros for a later trip and the opportunity came in 2022 while staying in Ullapool. Coire Granda and Cona' Mheall still looked enticing across the valley while climbing the eastern Fannichs earlier in the week.

The Beinn Dearg group from the Fannichs

The end of August 2022 had beautiful weather. MWIS suggested 30th August was going to be another clear day; perhaps a little overcast. But there were warning signs. The Beinn Dearg peaks, clearly in view from Ullapool all day, attracted a thin layer of cloud as the evening of the 29th approached.

The Beinn Dearg group from Ullapool

Cloud blanketing the peaks

Would MWIS let me down? (Spoilers: yes. And it seemed to be wrong for the rest of September. In fact, I'm recently back from Dalwhinnie (the March-April 2023 weekend) with a camera full of pictures of clear peaks despite MWIS saying there was nil chance of cloud-free Munros.)

30th August 2023 opened to sunny skies. I left early, hoping to complete a route that would take me over the five Munros of the Bienn Dearg group that I had not yet climbed. (I bagged Seana Bhràigh during the 2020 trip.)

Beinn Dearg route.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

Unfortunately the midges were out in force on the wooded path up Gleann na Squaib, so I powered upwards stopping as briefly as I could for the occasional picture. One of the shots came out pretty well, however, looking ahead over the trees to cloud rolling over Beinn Dearg, the grass white with spiderwebs.

Spiderwebs and cloud hugging the mountains

The midges began to disappear as I gained height, but the cloud grew closer. I was hopeful it might break later in the day, yet I was enveloped in mist as I reached Lochan A' Chnapaich. The water was barely visible only a few meters from the path. Nevertheless, the route was clear up to the bealach above the lake. At this point, I expected to find an unmarked path coming down from Eididh nan Clach Geala, but none appeared. I struck off cross-country towards the summit, picking around outcrops and occasional gully. At the summit, I could see clearer skies higher in the sky, but the mountain remained stubbornly coated in cloud. After waiting some minutes to see if I would get a break, I left. The views to Assynt would have to wait for another day.

Returning to the bealach, the air grew lighter. Then the cloud suddenly opened up around the ramparts of Meall nan Ceapraichean. For the second time in a day with few views, I got a photo which came out well.

The flank of Ceann Garbh suddenly appears

Without a visible path and thinking I might plunge back into cloud again, I took a direct line from the bealach up the side of the mountain. This was an error. If climbing the peak without a visible path, I strongly recommend walking further east and climbing the eastern ridge, rather than directly assailing the flank. Very steep grass, outcrop, slabs, gullies, loose mossy ground, big drops, pits full of midges: I was relieved to make the top of the ridge.

Meall nan Ceapraichean was swirling in and out of cloud. There was not a lot to see, however, as the surrounding peaks remained in cloud. I got my last summit views of the day from the top, looking at more mist swirling over the cliffs above Coire Mathair Lathail, then plodded down the slope towards the greyness of Beinn Dearg.

Final view of blue sky on Meall nan Ceapraichean

There's not much to report about the climbs up Beinn Dearg and Cona' Mheall. There are paths -- sometimes a little tricky to find in thick cloud. There's a fair amount of ascent over the day as a whole, so my legs were grumbling, particularly on the steep path up Beinn Dearg. But no views of Coire Granda; just the occasional sense of a great void over towards my right. I would post a picture, but you can achieve the same impression by simply closing your eyes.

I will have to come back on a clear day. Fortunately, it looks as if the climb up Cona' Mheall's south ridge, followed by a loop of Beinn Dearg, the Corbett and the Graham would make an excellent walk and bag a couple of peaks I have yet to climb.

Additionally, the walk was not yet over, and the route from Cona' Mheall to Am Faochagach was going to be interesting notwithstanding the weather. In the cloud, I couldn't plot a route down to Loch Prille from the top, and so set off in a straight line off the peak. The descent was a little hairy (although it would probably be easier in ascent and certainly would be easier on a clear dry day). The top of the mountain had very steep grass and outcrop, but soon I was descending a series of excellent slabs. Care is needed, however: some can be walked down; others are a little too steep and would result in a long slide and unpleasant landing.

I dropped below the cloud at around the 800-meter mark. Given the conditions, I have no pictures of the entire side of the mountain, but some of the photos I took from near the lake looking upwards give a sense of the terrain.

The side of Cona' Mheall

Zoomed

Once the difficulties of the descent are over, the ascent of Am Faochagach from Loch Prille is an excellent route up the mountain. There's an easy crossing point on stones above the waterfall that drops into Coire Lair. While there are a couple of steep slopes and a bit of outcrop on the far side of the lake, the remaining ascent is gentle, on short grass with little bog. In fact, there's a deep, clear stream that zigzags down the back of Am Faochagach cut into the grass, which provides good drinking water if you need a refill.

Approaching the waterfall from Loch Prille

Coire Lair

The crossing point

Some initial steepness on Am Faochagach

The peak of Am Faochagach stayed in cloud and I didn't linger. I was thinking about taking the long route down, walking all the way along the ridge to the Loch Glascarnoch dam. There's a good track along the top of the ridge. But I was tired after 2000 meters of ascent and decided I would take the usual path down. It's not a nice route, slippery and boggy the whole way, even after a dry spell. At least I dropped back out of the cloud again.

Ah, that's better. Endless grey gets a bit tiresome.

Loch A' Gharbhrain

I was a bit nervous about the river crossing at the end of the day. I didn't have a pair of sandals with me, and wanted to get across in my boots dry-shod if I could. The path seems to split close the river. One branch seemed to go off towards the stretch of river that enters Loch A' Gharbhrain. The other branched off to the left and cut the corner of the river, heading to the point where the river splits with what looked on the map like a small island. I took that left branch, thinking the island might make for an easier crossing. The path I was on met a wet patch of bog, around 5 feet wide. I tested the depths with a walking pole, which all-but disappeared. Wandering up and down, there did not seem to be any narrower crossing point. Eventually, I took a run up and went for the jump and barely made it. At least the portion of river I was heading towards turned out to be an easy crossing on stones. The island was not an island as the other branch of the river had largely dried up.

My crossing point

After a few further bogs, I was back at the road and my lift was waiting.

This was a fine walk, all things considered. But these peaks deserve another visit in fine weather and now I have the excuse for a second excursion.

[Verylatestarter]

Chris

We walked the BD4 on the 24th August and it started out claggy and midge infested but turned into something wonderful. A couple of photos:- The waterfall you walked above in Coire Lair and the big coire. For your information we met a group who had walked up the South ridge of Cona Meall and were returning to the 'public road' via Beinn Dearg; they said it was very boggy in the low lying areas. We walked out along the South ridge of Beinn Dearg, parallel to the wall, which I can highly recommend.

Thanks for another great report.

John

[Christopher Pulman]

Thank you for the pictures. I am definitely going to explore the southern ridges when I'm next in the area (ill-health, sudden death, unexpected bankruptcy or deportation, etc, allowing).

[Verylatestarter]

Deportation? Are you planning a free trip to Rwanda as part of an East African walking holiday?

John