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The only part of the forecasts that aligned for this Saturday related to predictions of 30mph+ NE winds unfortunately accurately although this was less of an issue once the clouds cleared later in the day.
Starting in the southeast it was raining and grey, though once up towards Perth unbroken sunshine. Up the A9 and that MWIS phrase (so often in their forecasts) that it’ll be cloud-free ‘except west of the A9’ was apt today. Parking at Balsporan cottages in the sun, the clouds covered A’Mharchonich and seemed to be moving in from the NE in the direction of the moderate winds.
From the car parking area towards the hills there’s a railway crossing that suggests it’s private and only for authorised users. Authorising myself, I crossed the line and carried on up the track.
With the wind picking up I was too lazy to get the map out and ended up too far down the track rather than turning towards the hill. This necessitated a rather more direct route to the top though it’s straightforward enough.
The day’s weather had yet to decide what to do:
- unbroken sunshine to come…nearly
Reaching the flat plateau towards the top of Geal Charn the wind was picking up a bit and visibility fairly poor - I slogged across the top to the ‘summit’, and immediately carried on down to the bealach above Coire Fhar.
- Top of Geal Charn, or possibly the ‘false’ cairn on Geal Charn
I had in my mind to do the 4 hills here though was undecided at this point with the cold NE picking up -so far it was nowhere near forecast though thankfully. A quick ascent up an obvious path to a fence post and I stopped to sort my layers out. I was a bit sweaty and quite cold in the wind and as I was later to discover from a selfie attempt, somehow managed to have my buff, hat and fleece hoodie all up at the same time, looking like a 14th century man at arms.
Towards the top of A’Mharchonaich there is an odd patch of what looks like a miniature graveyard for honourable rodents. Helpfully from this forum a poster flagged that it was actually an attempt/experiment in replacing vegetation.
The clouds still impeded all views so I turned round and in quick time was down at the 861m point above Fraoch-Choire. At this point the sun decided to show itself and the weather looked to be on the up.
- The ascent towards Beinn Udlamain
The cloud was blowing through though opening up across to Sgairneach Mhor.
It’s another relatively small ascent up to around 960m before heading SW towards the top of Beinn Udlamain. Approaching the summit the clouds had mostly gone and I saw my first person of the day, a young guy at the cairn.
After exchanging pleasantries I carried on southwards, and by now the views across Loch Erich were phenomenal, the tops of Ben Alder, Beinn Bheoil and Carn Dearg now partly visible through the clouds.
- Over towards ben alder and co
Reaching the burn at the 809m low point at the bealach I started to pass more people, some in shorts and summer gear. In my several layers and hat I wasn’t sure whether they were mad, or if I was. I later noted back at the car that much of a cereal bar had stuck to my beard - to the group of three women walking, and the couple of guys after that I passed, my apologies I don’t usually wear breakfast snacks in my beard.
The final ascent of the day up to Sgairneach Mhor was a fairly gentle gradient, though I think easiest just to pick a line towards the higher point and stick to it with the hill having a tendency to pull you north (leaving a steeper ascent or the potential for descending slightly before having to reascent).
Once reaching the track at 950m that leads to the top the views across to the hills southwards under a hazy blue sky distracted me for quite some time.
- View from the flat slopes towards Sgairneach Mhor across to (from left to right) Schiehallion, Carn Mairg and friends, the Lawers range, Meall Nan Tarmachan..
I reached the top of Sgairneach Mhor and without the shelter or other hills in the way, the wind was getting up so I didn’t stop for too long. Straight over the top and allow the top of Coire Creagach I descended towards the Sow of Atholl.
- Remains of cornices above Coire Creagach
I had time on my side, though having made a fairly last minute decision to get out hadn’t sorted my bike and the walk back along to the car looked fairly unenticing from here, given it was on a hard -surfaced cycle track.
- Balsporran cottages looks a long way away - stash a bike!
I declined to climb the Sow of Atholl and instead walked northwards down towards the Allt Choire Dhomhain. There are a series of paths that run in all sorts of directions and then disappear so it was easiest to choose a line and follow the grooves eroded by streams down towards the bridge.
On crossing the rest of the day is on tracks and paths - whilst welcome for a bit after the heather bashing to get down to the footbridge, i was cursing not bringing a bike by the time I was back at the car.
- Sgairneach Mhor with the sun now belting down
Following the track towards the A9, through the underpass, I was up on the cycle track. The wind was blowing directly down the pass as I stottered up the cycle path fighting against it. When it dropped, the sun was pretty warm, before a fresh burst of polar maritime wind immediately cooled me. This would’ve been a doddle on a bike but at the end of the day 3km of asphalt bashing next to a busy road is not exactly a highlight.
I reached the car in just under 7 hours from when I set off (and I’m neither terribly fast nor terribly fit) - so I’d assume just over 6 hours for someone with a bike. These were hills some people were not very enthusiastic about when I discussed them, but they are pretty characterful and give excellent views across to the nearby (and not so nearby) hills. Best of all, this was the third weekend in a row I’d had a good bit of sunshine in the hills and 3rd time lucky, I escaped with no sunburn.
- Sgairneach Mhor
