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I had originally planned to do these two, along with Carn na Nathrach, in one big day, but in early March and on a cold day with potential for ice high up, I settled for doing this pair and hopefully the other one the day after. On hindsight this was a good decision!
I managed to get to the Corran ferry in time for the 06:50 crossing and drove to Strontian and then along bumpy, minor roads to the car park in Ariundle Oakwoods. At 7:30am I set off along the good track through the woods with the Strontian River down below on the right. A good day was forecast, and as I reached the end of the woods, there were good views ahead of Sgurr na h-Ighinn and Sgurr a’ Chaorain.
- First views of the hills ahead
Out into the open, the path soon reached the old lead mines and then it was a case of gradually climbing up to the crest of the Druim Leac a’ Sgiathain. The cold north-easterly wind strengthened as I gained height, although with the sun shining, it was tolerable. Sgurr Dhomhnuill came into view for the first time as I reached the top of the ridge.
- Sgurr Dhomnuill from the crest of Druim Leac a’ Sgiathain
Just after a couple of small tarns, I contoured round to the left of Sgurr na h-Ighinn and made a beeline for the narrow bealach on its northern side. A wide grassy gully led up to a flat section, with a tiny tarn and the imposingly steep and craggy final section dead ahead. I stopped to take a few photos, although the wind was making it hard to hold the phone steady.
- The steep craggy section
At the foot of the crags, the slanting grassy rake was easy to spot and led steeply up, under some crags and onto the final ridge. Although there was no snow or ice to contend with, the rocks and grass were coated in thick hoar-frost and a bitterly cold wind blew as I reached the large summit rock pile. I sought shelter on the south-facing side and sat down to enjoy a cup of coffee.
- The rime-encrusted summit of Sgurr Dhomhmuill
- View SE with Beinn na h-Uamha in mid-distance
- A pano looking south
- View west with Beinn Resipol prominent
Just time for a few photos before heading back down to the bealach where I decided to climb over Sgurr na h-Ighinn rather than attempt to skirt round to the left as the slopes looked a tad too tricky for the conditions. I couldn’t see any signs of a path heading south down to the next bealach, so I decided to head down the SW ridge for a bit and to hopefully find an easy way down to the bealach. Things were going well until I was forced into a narrow gully and soon reached an impasse – a slimy drop of several meters that was just too dangerous to attempt. I could see easier slopes around to the SE, so began a rising traverse that required a few scrambling moves. I then reached another dead-end and I headed back up very steep ground, almost to the summit – this also required a few hands-on moves! At last, with much relief, I made it to safer ground and quickly crossed over to the easy-angled slopes that I’d seen earlier. There were no further difficulties down to the bealach and within 30 minutes I reached the top of the highest Fiona, Sgurr a’ Chaorain, and stopped for some much-needed sustenance and a rest.
- View west from summit of Sgurr a’ Chaorain
- View across to Garbh Bheinn
The next target was Beinn na h-Uamha, which was about 2 miles due east. It was now 1:15pm and I estimated an hour to reach it, plus an hour to return and two and a half hours to get back to the car – just about doable. The drop between the two hills was less than 200m but it seemed much more as I descended mixed ground to the long and lumpy bealach. The ascent of the Corbett was a bit tedious, with a few false summits and I reached the top in just under an hour, so my estimate was bang on!
- Summit of Beinn na h-Uamha looking SW
- View down Glen Gour with Loch Linnhe beyond
- View back west to Sgurr na h-Ighinn, Sgurr Dhomhnuill and Carn na Nathrach
A quick rest and a drink, then I was laboriously reversing tracks, all the way up to the summit of the Fiona and then dropping down to the bealach. I should really have climbed across to the Druim Leac a’ Sgiathain ridge, but had had enough climbing for the day, so decided to contour round well below, but aiming for the old lead mines. This was ok to begin with and I was making good progress until a series of gullies and crags forced me to climb up and down some steep slopes to overcome. At last, with a big sigh of relief, I made it to the mines and soon after into the woods as the light was beginning to fade and I got back to the car at 5:45pm.
Back at the Red Squirrel campsite, I decided to treat myself and strolled to the Clachaig for fish and chips and two thirst-quenching pints of beer brewed in Ardgour – a good way to end an amazing day!
