free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
Sorry about the Sham 69 song pun - I got it in my head when thinking about a title - these things sometimes happen
Anyway, there was a bit of urgency to our trip to Harris as each of the Grahams had to be climbed twice (R2 and R3) - to enable this and have some allowance for weather conditions I had decided to give us four and a half days on the island: arriving Tuesday lunchtime and leaving on Saturday evening for Uist.
Queuing up for the ferry on Tuesday morning gave a bit of time to sort out the kit in the boot, make up some sandwiches for the next few days ahead, that kind of thing which is all very useful when living out of a car/rucksack. The ferry wasn't particularly busy and wee spent a very smooth crossing reading or looking out of the window at the mist covering the island. Disembarking was fun - we got the call to return to our vehicles and when I went to look for the Yeti it was nowhere to be seen...I recognised other vehicles in front of it, but the place I'd left it was occupied by other cars...it took a little time to understand that after we'd left the car it had been lifted up to the mezzanine deck, with other cars coming in on the lower deck underneath. So we waited a bit longer and sure enough, after all the other traffic had left, the upper deck lowered back into place and there she was along with a handful of other people's cars.
It looked like we wouldn't be getting any views today - but at least it was dry - that is until the rain started
I'd reckoned we could do The Clisham today then head over to the western hills and find somewhere to camp. We sat in the car in a lay-by on the way to The Clisham and ate our lunch, hoping that at least the rain would subside, which to be fair it did. I think the best way to appreciate The Clisham is to come over on foot and walk along the trail from Tarbert to the mountain - preferably in better weather than we were getting today. The horseshoe, which we'd done the first time, is also well worth doing, but again when conditions permit. Today it was going to be a straight up and back - dull but efficient.
Parked at the beginning of the walk, wrapped up and set off over the boggy grass following the course of the river upwards into the mist. For much of the walk there's a path to follow, although this does get posted missing in some of the central boggy/grassy sections and we couldn't always see the cairn markers because of the clag. Once you reach the rocky lower slopes of the mountain the path is clearer, although you quickly realise there are a number of them. In any event we made it up to the summit ridge, posed for the obligatory, but claggy photo, and headed back down. We could hear the voices of other walkers somewhere near us, but couldn't see them. It was a shame, because this mountain deserves better and this was the second time we'd seen nothing.
780CEF6A-0C00-4987-B7AF-749155104524_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
For the three Grahams I had not really drawn up definite routes. It would be possible to do the three in one loop, but that would mean a long road walk back to the start. It looked as if it would be possible to combine two of the three easily enough. One of the advantages of OSMaps is being able to construct routes on the go, something I've been trying out recently.
Back at the car we drove round to the Abhainn Mhiabhaig with the intention of walking a way up the glen with the tent. We had to sit and wait for a parking space to become free - despite the weather this was a busy place today, ut eventually we got the car parked and picked up our packs walking in the direction of the eagle observatory. To be honest, there isn't a lot of choice when it comes to tent pitches - we wanted something that would allow access to Oireabhal and Uisgneabhal Mor and we ended up on a small grassy area right beside the path just north of the footbridge. Not ideal, not discrete, but it would do for the night.
A789D31A-8186-4369-A2A7-D515D8F74E15_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
3141399B-2EED-4DB2-AD0B-71BE3C553C54_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Wednesday morning was still cloudy, but at least the hilltops were almost visible. I reckoned we should leave the tent where it was and set off for Oireabhal via the eastern coire. It did look steep on the map, but eyeballing the top of the coire suggested we'd be able to avoid the crags and find a grassy way up. We crossed back over the footbridge and set off through the heather and tussocks, following deer paths high up into the coire. It was hard work, but nothing particularly difficult and the exit from the coire was, as hoped, easy enough on grass rather than rock. From the summit of Oireabhal we continued along over Bidigidh, cut down before the summit of Cleiseabhal and followed the line of Glas Smearasmal round the crags. Again, deer paths were handy - we came across remains of stony buildings - I couldn't work out whether these were really old or a more modern mock up - nothing marked on the map for them. We got back to the tent in time for lunch and sat by the river enjoying a brief rest before packing up the kit and setting out on the other side of the glen for Uisgneabhal Mor.
8AFF70A0-C05F-4F70-B641-E597386F6A03_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
17486125-AF8B-4A3E-94C2-E3258E7A5207_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
D48F3522-3C0E-432D-92F8-61AC90C47592_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Tiorga mor from Oireabhal
33F995B4-8535-46FA-BAB9-ADF3C273174B_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Uisgneabhal Mor from Oireabhal
9A0453A5-13DB-47CD-88BD-04E413C8121A_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
0A9C27F7-43F8-4739-9787-067507D67755_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
This involved some swampy moves along the deer fence, then steep and pathless ascent around Uisgneabhal Beag into Lag Garbh, from where we were able to climb onto the back of Uisgneabhal Mor, leaving the head packs behind. The cloud was slowly lifting and our views improving by the minute. There's a path to follow up to the surprisingly rocky summit for where we could look over at Teileasbhal, probably on the cards for the next time we were up here, but today we reversed our steps to where we'd left the packs then headed down through the new plantation back towards the car. We did take a bit of time to repair as many of the tree protectors around the little trees as we could - so many were damaged - whether by weather or deer - but the green plastic mesh protectors aren't up to much and using two cable ties instead of three or more is false economy imo.
14F9912E-DA8B-42E7-9934-E5F03C0CC391_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
CD424C03-C8C8-435D-9C99-D3457951911F_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
The Clisham
9C0BBC02-D3FB-481D-819E-5223EE1E65E4_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
28DD61A4-07D0-4E57-8E49-9C5C9D828488_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
D8DC1B8E-C3A1-446F-933E-759E43802A7D_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Having done our good deed for the day, we stuffed the gear into the car and headed off further up the road towards Tiorga Mor. Again I wasn't sure where to camp - most of the ground here is boggy or tussocks - but I had seen a patch of promising looking green around the dam when we were up on Oireabhal in the morning and decided that would be worth a try. We parked a little way up the track, where there's a bend in the track just before the locked gate. It was coming up for 6pm now, but sunny. The track actually drops height as you walk in past the power station, then climbs up to the dam. Allison was pretty tired and not keen on going any further, but fortunately, as I had hoped, there was a useable spot of dry grass just beside the dam. We pitched and tucked into our Huel.
A77B6636-3C4F-45F0-96D6-DE0E6ACC9D7F_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
BC69213A-DD90-42E7-A232-B5A617480D75_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
822F92E8-ABBA-4A20-8AC4-EC145E665A4B_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
A dry night, snipe winnowing and cuckoos going at it from about 3.30am. We left the tent door open, and were surprised b a Yorkshireman coming up the track as we were getting breakfast at about 7am. My plan for today was to summit Oireabhal again, from the west then continue along the ridge, dropping down to climb Tiorga Mor, following what is, pretty much, the WH circular route for that hill. I was also keen to re-climb Tiorga Mor after we got back to camp, although I didn't broadcast the idea to Allison early in the day. We left the gear in the tent and walked into the western coire, over heather, finding the odd deer path that was going the way we wished, approaching Oireabhal round the crags from the west. From there we continued north along the ridge to Ulabhal, where we met the Yorkshireman we'd seen earlier. He had been over doing Beinn Mhor on Uist and was now doing the Harris Grahams, guided by a list of "other hills" in the SMC Corbett guide, which I thought was rather sweet. He'd retired to Orkney, and had much to say on the subject of CalMac ferries
Oireabhal
9FD5DEF0-931C-45FC-B51D-E963A46CDCD4_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
6D5F8ABA-1E5F-4F07-AE74-C839516B7D85_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
0824133A-CE16-4DAB-9FB2-7B34322015CA_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
We continued down the broad back of the hills to the northern end of Loch Aiseabhat. There's plenty of camping options up here. There was a large, mixed party of about 10 folk who'd walked up from the dam and were going to be climbing up Oireabhal. We continued up the slopes of Tiorga Beag following a vague path. From that summit we crossed over to Tiorga Mor, which has the mossiest trig column I know of. We took a line NW along the ridge (there's a bit of a path) then weaved between some blocks to reach the bealach with Ceartabhal, then down to Loch Bhraigh Bheagrais. It was very warm and sunny as we followed a loose course down between the two streams making for the track marked on the map. A bit sketchy in places, but mostly well defined path - possibly an old peat cutting track? We followed it down to the river, intending to join up with the power station track at the bridge - but the path we'd been following just disappeared. We did take the opportunity of fixing some more saplings that had been left bereft of their protection, or flattened underneath it.
D5C38265-E6A2-47E0-A97C-8EF49AD76231_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
3377B9EB-C524-4A9D-983F-E812D07370F4_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
69872761-2F9D-4B8F-B449-BDA4E7F5AE48_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Tiorga Mor from Beag
921772A4-F338-4C19-8FE5-7EF9235E1106_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
B1875F01-B458-4159-9A2B-A63D6BAFFD83_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
E78D3239-9BE5-4840-A340-37ECEA1178E5_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
05CE2F54-AC8F-4CEA-A8DC-5C2A2C0C0D27_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
8F3FF84C-7FC8-4FB9-A896-377C213D779C_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Tiorga Mor
E7B21482-646C-46D8-8323-DEB007CA5144_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
I mentioned to Allison my plan to do Tiorga Mor again tonight, using the "quick route" straight up and back on the SE shoulder from the dam. I emphasised that this would give us more time to do Uisgneabhal Mor and it's outlying Marilyn Stulabhal, which we'd failed to climb the first time we were here. I got a "we'll see" which I took as a yes. I felt quite clear about the validity of doing Tiorga Mor again without going to the car, as the bridge on the track which we arrived at is lower than the starting point where the car was parked. Back up to the tent, Allison left her rucksack behind and we crossed over the dam and picked up a faint path through the heather and bog after the dam, then moved onto slabs and boulders of the rough shoulder. We'd come down this way the first time we did Tiorga Mor and remembered it as quite a good way to do the hill, although it's easier to spot where to go on ascent rather than descent. There's a path of sorts - probably deer - which weaves in and out of the crags. The sky became more and more blue as we neared the top - a pretty enjoyable wee romp. Coming down was a little trickier - I'd left some small cairns to mark the key directions to take, which helped. Back at the tent we could now enjoy our meal, knowing that the bulk of the Harris hills had been completed.
E7AD4116-4D1A-472F-A870-9436B169F6D4_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
B72437AD-0D58-4259-9E19-93BEF160F288_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
A8C520C4-A8D3-4751-AC77-0FBD1A127F7E_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
C11CC13F-9DF0-48DB-8551-2289F4C691C6_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
001FFBE5-7157-4985-A56C-6A2CC99DDFE8_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
It was just as well we'd gone up Tiorga Mor on Thursday evening as it rained a lot overnight and the morning was damp and very claggy - it wouldn't have been fun scrambling about on the crags with poor visibility. We dismantled the tent and set off back to the car, intending to drive round to Gleann Mhiabheag again for the second ascent of Uisgneabhal Mor. Not as busy this morning - we spoke to another Yoikshireman who was going off to the hide hoping to see an eagle, telling his wife, who was remaining in the car that he'd be at least an hour. I suggested his chances of eagle spotting in weather like this would be low - indeed we'd seen very little birdlife all week apart from a pair of cuckoos flying into one of the coires on Oireabhal (often heard but rarely seen in flight, the cuckoo). We walked along the road a bit and started up the hillside where there's some agricultural buildings. Steep heather until we reached Braigh an Fhais then a vague path which became more defined the higher we went. The drizzle had ceased and the mist was clearing too, giving us reasonably clear views over to The Clisham by the time we reached the summit of Uisgneabhal Mor.
DA776AA8-B8DB-439D-A391-195AA4AE67C0_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
0221C6ED-4CBC-4D55-82C1-EA38B32D2BE2_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
CC69B421-8F9A-46D1-BC79-9FE7D539ACFD_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
From here we descended to the bealach with Teileasbhal then climbed towards that summit. There's a craggy block (which the WH route does a sharp "V" around to the west - we tried the eastern side but it was into a steep grassy gully. If you were coming the opposite way (as the WH circuit suggests you do) you would find yourself suddenly at the top of this feature with no warning it was there - I recall reading one report where the poster had been injured trying to scramble down these blocks. Anyway, from Teileasbhal we wandered NW along its broad back making for Stulabhal. On our first visit we'd been too tired to bother climbing the 220m back up Stulabhal and had a miserable boggy time walking out from Loch Stulabhal to the track. It is quite steep going up the hill, but better than bog! From the summit we found ourselves in clag again which made the business of descending the NW ridge time consuming. Eventually we could see the good track below us and eventually got there, heading for Loch Bhosimid and back onto the track leading south down Gleann Mhiabheag. Sron Scourst dominates the walk down here. There is a posh fisherman's bothy (locked) at the southern end of Loch Bhiosimid. Progress is reasonable on good track, but it did feel like a longish way til we reached the eagle observatory. We had a peek inside - no eagles spotted for quite a few days: little surprise with the wind and clag. We pressed on back towards the car, wondering where to pitch tonight. If nothing better came up we could walk the mile back up the glen to the spot we'd used by the track on Tuesday but neither of us was especially keen on the extra mileage.
Teileasabhal
9616D57B-95D4-439E-9873-3082374EFB1A_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Stulabhal
4D153347-4DE9-4120-8B48-5F019E8A66EF_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
8F4C6F07-048F-44A6-83DE-0C839BC743A8_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
2A3BE527-20DA-440F-82C0-1747FF42783B_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
19D48D2B-C32F-49E5-AC60-53E6DDB18D17_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Sron Scourst
B5546E04-6216-4EB5-92D9-C498F0608B94_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Eagle observatory (no eagles)
5C7B24E8-A53C-4D06-A85F-96839766CBB7_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
We decided to make our tea before sorting out where to pitch and used the low wall at the parking area as a kitchen worktop. Something more substantial than Huel tonight - I had the stove out, plus a bottle of wine. Afterwards we found a spot by the sea which would do us alright and didn't involve much extra walking. More rain overnight and indeed the rain continued in the morning. I had nothing set in stone for Saturday - we were getting the late afternoon ferry over to Berneray, so had most of the day to use as we wished. We headed into Tarbert and had a wee wander around in the rain. There isn't much to Tarbert apart from cafes and coffee shops, although we did find one of those old fashioned haberdashery/random things shops run by a very dapper Asian man. After that we headed round towards the beaches on the west coast. I had thought we could do a couple of quick Marilyns, although hadn't really researched the matter sufficiently for my liking. I'd decided we should do Bleabhal and Greabhal, mostly as I thought their names were so funny.
By the time we'd arrived at Sgarista the rain had stopped and the sun was threatening to shine. We ate our sandwiches in the car parked by the golf club, which has pretty special views that might put you off your stroke. We sat looking out at Ceapabhal, with its sandy union with Taobh Tuath - I would have liked to climb it too, but I didn't think we had time to do all three hills before the ferry. One for next visit, maybe? I chose a route up Bleabhal that made use of the Hebridean Way for a short section then followed a fence line up. Passed several dead sheep as we followed the course of the stream uphill, making for Mheabhal, then Bleabhal...I think that Eabhal Kinneabhal would have gone down a storm here
The grassy summit of Bleabhal would make an excellent camp spot with great views over the surrounding lands in all directions. We retraced our steps, meeting a Scottish couple who were a week into the Hebridean Way. They'd been enjoying itched made some use of hostels and commented that shortage of drinkable water could be a problem. Allison has an interest in doing the HebWay in the future, so she was keen to listen to their experience.
Ceapabhal
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
3F04A501-F8D5-4FCB-98FE-D1FE2152A138_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Bleabhal
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Al, on Flickr
F95E3C47-B3AA-4886-98B9-89912C2558DD_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
We returned to the car and drove round to the visitor centre car park which gives direct access to Greabhal. Although only a mere 280m high, it is a steep bugger to climb from this direction! There's a gate leading into a field with young cows and sheep, then it's straight up the heathery hillside. From the top there were good views north to Ceapabhal, with dark clouds coming in behind it. We could also see the ferry pot at Leverburgh, where we were headed next.
72B1BD69-BA52-4FD9-9266-DDECA9696AE8_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
19EED8C7-C77C-4FD8-8607-ED8CB6E4D4E1_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
8D676A1E-7B42-4A74-99D0-3FD5BB82371A_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
A3052386-2F0B-4E69-BD1C-B2D2DFA5B602_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
4171CE30-4C61-4BCF-B247-7F6E1F316087_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Returning by the same route we reached the car more or less intact and drove round to Leverburgh, past the "Artisan Mustard Maker" which I'm a little sorry we didn't stop at (it was just too weird to have a mustard shop on Harris). The cafe and other facilities were shut, although there was a fish & chip van plying its trade as we waited in line for the ferry to arrive. I reflected on what had been quite a successful trip to Harris - sadly there hadn't been any "beach weather" to enjoy what must be among the finest beaches anywhere, but our mission was at least completed.
