free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
And so the awful puns, like our holiday must come to an end. Here's the final instalment soundtracked to The Pet Shop Boys...
As we were sitting on the ferry back to Uig I was still trying to determine what we were going to do for the remaining five days of our holiday. I'd thought that if the weather was to be so-so we'd go to Torridon, where there was much to be done. If, on the other hand, it was to be better than so-so then we'd head up to Assynt which is just such a favourite place. Checking the forecast on the boat it appeared that the weather was to be excellent...as in full sun excellent. This agitated me - like a wee boy in a sweetie shop that sees all these things he wants but can only have some of them...would we go to Assynt, or further up to the land of Foinaven...aaargh - not a position of choice I often find myself in.
Ultimately we decided there was enough to be done in Assynt without venturing further north-west and settled down to narrow our options down. Off the boat at just after 6pm, we stopped off at Portree's Co-Op again to get lunches for the next few days and maybe another bottle of whisky. Allison was starving, I didn't have much appetite, and made do with sharing a box of pakora by the roadside, then, giving in to her hunger pleas, stopping in the car park of the Raasay Ferry and cooking up some ravioli. I was focussed on getting up towards Ullapool tonight. It was a glorious evening for a drive, as we went up by Attadale and Achnashelloch. Not much traffic on the roads, most of the vans having parked up for the night, taking up almost every lay-by we passed (perhaps a slight exaggeration but not by much). We stopped in one of our usual spots before Ullapool and watched the fiery glow in the sky behind An Teallach.
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Al, on Flickr
We were wakened early by glorious birdsong - a particularly talented starling winning the award. When we got out the tent we were a little alarmed to see a van of bird spotters nearby, with long lenses trained - not on us but awaiting a red throated diver which had apparently been spotted nearby. We left them to twitch in peace and continued up the road. I was doing a little twitching of my own, and not the birdy kind. Our first port of call was to be Stac Pollaidh. Readers with long memories may recall that on my first round of Grahams I'd decided to enlist a guide to manage Stac P - that was where we first met with Paul Tattersal - and I did feel uncomfortable about not having climbed it myself. I'd been reading various accounts of how to deal with the "block" at the summit - the most helpful being one by a young Malky from 2010 when he's little more than an embryo:
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6887I'd not slept particularly well due to mulling over my fear of falling vs embarrassment if I failed to make it up. It didn't help that today was day 13 of our holidays, nor that it was May 31, which is 1 and 3 reversed. Or that I had 13 Grahams left in this round. Think positive!! We arrived quite early at the car park, which was already busying up. Midges were out, though in a muted manner. There was a guide with proper climbing gear taking a young American couple up for some action on the south crags: we followed them up much of the approach until they abruptly disappeared. On to the steep gully leading right to the summit block...me doing a lot of self-talking but saying very little aloud. We halted at the top of the gully, removed rucksacks and sat looking at the block whilst munching on a bar. Allison had done the direct route herself previously, so she wasn't really much bothered about doing that again. I didn't really like the look of it - or more accurately I didn't like how it might feel having to come back down that way. Whilst we were pondering, a lithe chap appeared from the ridge. He was a climber, having been up over the weekend on An Teallach with his climbing club, and fancying a bit of Polly before driving back to Glasgow. He went up the block making it look so easy - I should have taken pictures as illustrations of how to do it (assuming you have long arms and legs
). Now it was time for us. Allison started off up the direct route whilst I went down to my left to investigate "the squeeze" option. I hadn't looked at this before and was delighted to find that it was really easy - protected from exposure, with straightforward holds and not even any need to squeeze anything, unless you were quite a chunky person I suppose. Anyway I went up like a weasel up a rabbit hole, and waited for Allison to come over her way. I chatted to the climber guy while waiting - he chivalrously offered to wait around until we had come back over.
09863C7E-B64E-4914-8E09-FCBEEC637722_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
EEDC62BF-4A8F-4795-9351-B5F2C2FCEC2F_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Up the gully
AE98F824-5E2C-491C-9821-BE0BB00F7387_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
The block
A95DE880-B665-4203-8B3B-5CEE49157B97_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
713B157B-E7B7-443C-917F-DEA855BC510E_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Allison descending the squeeze
64433B39-7FF6-4726-922B-9C8FC93B3CC3_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
climber guy going up it
BC45133A-700A-4255-BBB2-35C85E611131_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Polly, thank you for your gentleness
A32D1D39-2E98-4497-A357-D685124E6214_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
I had a good feeling of achievement - something I'd been concerned about now having been resolved. And although I need to do Stac Pollaidh another time for R3, now that I know I can manage the few required moves, I think I'll be much more relaxed about it. Allison came down "the squeeze" after me - although she said she'd have preferred to go back over the block. I found that turning in to face the rock once you're sitting on the bit she's on in the photo, made the descent much easier. Back down to the car park - which was now coaching as everyone and their dog seemed to want to be around Stac Pollaidh now the sun was out.
We drove back up the road a little, noticing all the verge parking, the passing places crammed with parked cars near Stac Pollaidh car park...would we get in where we needed to park for our next hill? Fortunately things eased off the further away from Polly you drove and we were able to park in the lay-by with some quarry/gravel near to the start of the route into Beinn an Eoin. We ate lunch then got the overnight packs on. I\d seen a couple on Insta camp by Lochan Tuath and thought this would be an ideal way of combining Beinn an Eoin with the two Grahams on Ben More Coigach. It would involve going up what looked a very steep gully underneath Sgurr an Fhidhleir but again, an early Malky report described this being much easier than it looked on the map. We walked down the road for a bit to the head of Loch Lurgainn and descended to the rough path through the "forestry" (of which there's very little) and followed the Allt Claonaidh towards Lochan Tuath. Boggier than Eaval, that's all I'm going to say
We reached the end of the deer fence and started looking for places to pitch. There was very little - everything flattish was also very boggy, everything else was tussocks. Eventually we decided to pitch on a semi-flat spot near or on the path which had the advantage of being dry at least (but was the lumpiest pitch we've endured for a while). Tea or Eoin? I asked Allison - she opted for food, which was just as well the way the weather was, hilltops now disappearing under cloud.
EB670E16-2853-4C05-977E-E6A8772C3BB6_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Thinking about gld73
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Al, on Flickr
4CA6B678-AC4B-4E72-9304-903CA99D0D6F_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
The fiddler
B529A0F8-C29E-4C02-9F30-1618827F157B_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Beinn an Eoin
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Al, on Flickr
Lumpy pitch
C44F1271-80DA-4BF2-B887-FDDB06A3D3F3_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
After Huel and coffee it was time to get up Eoin. We took a fairly direct route up steep grassy/heathery slopes, making use of deer tracks. We sat around for a bit at the summit and the clouds began to lift, the sun emerged from hiding, and it was a lovely evening to be up a hill in this part of the world. Back down before we started to get too cold, a few whiskies to celebrate the day.
Jaunty
BA5EF0C5-DA72-4F2D-8810-3B30EDB8ABB4_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
FD622607-3A65-4D29-A6FA-490A58A83E31_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Polly
F783922A-39C1-44EB-B263-0F35CB051C1E_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Clag on Thursday morning covering the mountaintops. We left the tent and most of our kit and set off to the west end of Lochan Tuath making for the gully. There's actually a path climbing up, with the odd cairn marker or two and the ascent was - just as Malky had promised - much less brutal than it appears on the map. Up to the top of Fhidhleir first, where we were greeted by a raven fly-past in the clag. Left a small pile of nuts at the summit for it then headed down to the bealach with Ben Mor Coigach. Last time we'd had clag and no view from up here, today it was pleasing to see the cloud lifting as we climbed. We sat at the summit, in the shelter of the cairn, having lunch and watching a walker with two dogs coming over the ridge towards us. On the way down I almost stepped on ptarmigan chicks - tiny ones - whilst the mother attempted to lead us away. She kept this up for way too long - we were telling her to fly back and find her chicks - did she listen? Back down the gully to the tent, where we packed up and prepared for the walk out. If you were going to do these three in a single day that would be possible - just come of=ver Beinn an Eoin in the usual way and possibly consider traversing Beinn Tarsuinn on the way out, which we couldn't do as we needed to collect the tent.
gully
6784B08D-B37E-473A-ADB5-78AE584B846F_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
AFF7CF88-D79E-42E3-A251-CF0C77210E8E_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Fhidhleir
F1AE7C03-9607-44EC-88CC-82F15B7AD448_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
DD20A0DD-448C-4FBF-8C54-4B4C66F3BFC2_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Lochan Tuath
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Al, on Flickr
A14F68EB-44B6-4487-9816-CDD1059848ED_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
I'd switched off my GPS at the tent, assuming we'd have no difficulty seeing the path we'd followed in, but it was more difficult in this direction for some reason. About half way along, an eagle flew low past us then started slowly to rise in spirals up to the level of Eoin. We reached the car around 4pm. I had Canisp and Suilven scheduled for the next day and thought we could do a bit of the walk in tonight. I knew - with the beautiful weather - that we'd have no chance of getting parked at Inverkirkaig at the moment - though we might if we went along in the evening. I spotted a route into Suileag from Little Assynt and thought we could try that - it wasn't much longer than the route in from Glen Canisp Lodge (although as Allison pointed out the track was a very good one there, and this approach was likely to be boggy). Anyway, we parked at the lay-by at Little Assynt, which will hold 3 cars. I made dinner by the roadside once more and we had that with a glass of wine before heading off.
861217F5-B388-4AA8-A605-5F2FD3773DA4_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
A truly gorgeous evening, Quinaig behind us spectacular against blue skies. The path is an old stalkers one and was certainly boggy in places. Allison said it was the longest 5k she'd ever done and was not enthusiastic about the bit of ascent required to get to the saddle at Cnoc an Leothaid. Once you do hit the highest point however, you come face to face with Suilven full broadside on. I had planned to camp somewhere between the two footbridges on the way to Canisp, but as time passed I became dubious about there being anything except tussocks when we got there. We began to descend towards Suileag, which we could smell before we saw it - the woodsmoke reaching us maybe a kilometre from the bothy. there was one tent pitched outside - but I noticed a perfect camp spot a little further away and we secured the tent upon this with a sigh of relief.
Off to a good start - dodgy bridge
D7CF736A-D42E-41E4-B452-32B6D52F2EE8_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Stepping stones
3C800858-40FB-43D8-8F21-2B3D50467058_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Quinnaig/Cunnieag
D385C90C-05A7-429A-AD9F-8BAD004F9104_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
39829337-4B27-4316-A72C-72E6819AFA79_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Oak eggar moth
7C2F620E-1C52-4E15-A412-DA5C4A16B07C_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Suileag
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Another splendid evening - we watched the moon pass over Suilven in the course of the evening. Morning was bright initially but became more overcast as we set off for Canisp, leaving the tent behind. Ive always associated these mountains with each other, since their names were drummed into me on childhood holidays, and it was good to be climbing them both on the same day. This route up to Canisp is far better than the route in from the east, and although longer, it is on good track for much of the way. We arrived at the summit to find we had it to ourselves, and had lunch in the huge wind shelter. As we were heading down we saw a figure approaching from the east, but no-one else came past us on our descent.
Moon and alpenglow
5FD70760-55CF-4A5C-8729-1F8776CF5E11_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
8CF7E824-042E-4552-8044-E0090FB1866E_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
canisp
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Suilven from Canisp
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
688E4379-2522-40B5-A6A2-E106AC10E87D_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
It was quite a different matter when we reached the path for Suilven. Still fairly busy at 4pm ish. we stopped to chat to an Englishman who had a bi-annual pilgrimage to the NW and was intending to head up to Sandwood Bay the next day. While we were chatting a guy with a big black GSD comes down and says that he recognises us, handshakes and chat - this is Scott and Jäger the dog, who have walked in from Elphin, which is hardcore. onwards and upwards for us - passing quite a lot more hillwalkers on their way down. To the lochan at the foot of the steep climb - the path which was still under construction when we were last here has now been finished but already sections are in disrepair - I guess due to sheer numbers accessing it. The climb is easier than it really should be given the steepness of the hill up to the bealach. We left our packs by the wall and continued up to the summit, reminiscing about our summit camp last time with the wonderful inversion.
EA62974A-E776-431C-8E9B-2E88D7545C1E_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
8A71E957-061E-44E1-8CC8-2546A9814ECF_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Sitting behind the cairn I almost get hit in the face by a merlin sweeping round hunting some small birds further along the summit of Caisteal Liath. There's actually a pair of them and they swoop round once more. Brilliant. As we start to descend we pass a couple with camping gear planning to spend the night - he's carrying a large hunting knife on his belt and says it's been a 20 year wait to to this.We wish him well for good weather overnight. On the way back to the tent we pass another couch of guys who looked like they had the same idea. There are more folk in the bothy tonight, including a barky dog, and during the later part of the evening another tent gets pitched behind us. There's a crazy semi-inversion and full-moon scenario.
75890BF3-E902-415B-8365-D53EE8AAFB2D_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
7CEF4C52-B233-42A3-A21D-2EF311FA0300_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Midges are out as we wake up and start to prepare breakfast. A group of 6 folk walk in past us heading for the bothy - presumably to have breakfast there out of the way of the midges - glad I'm not in there wanting a lie in! We gather up the tent and start back on the path to Little Assynt, which is a bit easier from this side, less ascent. What are we going to do today? Part of me still wants to drive up to Foinaven, but I know that would be daft when we've to drive home on Sunday. Glas Bheinn is the one Corbett I have left to do in this area, so seems a sensible, if maybe a bit boring, option. We're going to do the shorter approach from Loch Gainmhich, which we did last time in clag. Might be similar today.
We park at the far end of the loch and set off, being followed by a couple of young German guys. I ask if they're off to the falls, which they say they are, but don't really know where they're going - I see they've got OSMaps on their phones but haven't downloaded the detailed maps when they had signal, and now there's no signal to do so. I show them where to go and suggest they'll get the best views if they descend below the falls and look up. We continue on our way, reaching the scree/boulder covered upper slopes after a while. We meet an English guy at the summit who now lives off-grid in Rosehall and is concerned about his water supply given the on going lack of rain. He loves these hills and now has them on his doorstep. Living the life...
Clag over Glas Bheinn
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
1ADEE5EE-2062-4222-B8EB-E4E2C3AF4E58_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
CC832817-5561-4591-BCAF-5E9D45B61B66_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
We sit at the cairn for a bit and hear a drone, then see a familiar figure with a big black dog getting nearer. Its Scott and Jäger from yesterday - he's as surprised to see us as we are him. We have a long natter then head back down the way we came up. I'm unsure what to do / where to camp. It's about 5pm now, warm and sunny. Should we go to the beach as it's our last night? I'm tempted to head to Achmelvich but I know it'll be mobbed. Instead we manage to find a suitable camp spot near where we're parked, with views of the hills and sit by the car having a cooked meal before heading to put the tent up and retire for the night. Forecast for full sun tomorrow, and indeed for the rest of the week. I joke about maybe I'll put Allison on the bus home and stay up here myself - maybe only half-joke - ho great to be up here in perfect weather.
58B3AF8C-3916-4888-BBE7-FAF6C9F32F5C_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
038B6AA5-C1B2-48FC-854D-04EF48A78105_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
8CD4B25C-F080-48A9-826D-D48391CC3E82_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Of course it isn't perfect weather in the morning - it's midges and clag. We have discussed what to do - Allison wanted to do Cul Beag which I agree to as long as we can go up from the Achiltibuie road. We get up early and park about half a km west of the path, where there's a layby. Buff over the ears to protect against the midge beasts we walk back along the road and onto a nice path heading to the lochans. I'm using my phone to look at the route and trip over a boulder on the path going flying, but fortunately not hurting myself. I get more of a shock when my Apple Watch tells me I've had a hard fall and do I need to call emergency services. The wonders of technology... I don't really know what to expect of the path up Cul Beag, which isn't on the OS map but is on the WH planner map. It turns out to be really good, obviously a commonly used approach. Steep but I'm really enjoying it. I've only climbed Beag with Mor before but would definitely recommend this route over the one from Knockan Crag if you are only doing Cul Beag. Sadly the clag remains down when we reach the summit, although we can feel the sun trying to burn its way through. Back down the same way, this midges having largely cleared off.
AD4530A0-6DE7-4155-AA42-7C4E832DF4DA_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
5E50F2DA-19CE-4FF9-A985-815D6A718DC1_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
We call into Tesco in Ullapool for something for lunch, noting it has been refurbed but prominent Gaelic signage and stop at Corrieshalloch to have lunch. It gets steadily warmer as we drive south. Allison is dozing in the passenger seat as I pull off the A9 at Lynebeg - it's way too early to head home yet...we can just nip up Carn na h-Easgainn en route. It's all track and only 4 miles with 300m ascent - a skoosh! The place before the cattle grid now has a no parking sign, so I drove back down the road a bit - however you can drive over the grid, past the houses and park at the Scottish Water enclosure where there's sign saying no unauthorised vehicles beyond this point, if you want to make a short walk shorter...
Not much to say about the route - it's a heathery lump of a hill, we didn't even put on boots, just wearing our Vivibarefoot shoes, did meet a young guy coming down with rucksack, poles etc. It was very hot indeed. As we headed home the heat increased, reaching a high of 27 degrees past Stirling. I'm glad not to have had temperatures that high on the hills - just too much. Roadworks north of Perth are a pain in the butt and look like they'll be ongoing for a while - oh joy!
43F8FEDF-8654-4819-B910-0C63F7634854_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
So the end of another holiday - reasonably happy with the weather and the overall lack of midges thanks to the wind. Got a number of things done that I wanted to, although there's always more. Liked the Uists and would spend some more time there, confirmed my liking of Harris too.
