Two highly-prized Knoydart hills in a day

[DaveSan]

Two_remote_Corbetts_in_Knoydart_Sgurr_a_Choire_bheithe_and_Ben_Aden_epic_day_in_great_weather.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

After climbing 16 Corbetts in 3 trips earlier in the year, I was now on 219, and had just Sgurr a’ Choire-bheithe and Ben Aden in Knoydart and Beinn Chuirn left to get a full-house. I’d read all the trip reports for these two hills several times and must have spent hours perusing maps to work out the pros and cons of all the various options. I ruled out doing each in long day-trips – a circuit to include both in one journey had far greater appeal, although it would mean backpacking in and wild-camping for at least one night, probably two. Finally, I settled on this route, which would require a six-mile walk-in and setting up camp near the dams at the western end of Loch Quoich with a traverse of the Druim Chosaidh to Sgurr a’ Choire-bheithe, then a west to east traverse of Ben Aden.
In preparation for this off-grid solo trip, I decided to buy a Garmin Inreach so I could keep in touch with my wife (and if things went seriously wrong, contact mountain rescue) – quite a large outlay for something I probably won’t use that often, given the widespread coverage of 4GL in most areas.

The day before
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Leaving home at 8am, I reached the large parking area off the Kinloch Hourn road, a mile or so beyond the start of the route up Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich and was fairly surprised, given the forecast, to find no other cars there. Shouldering my old and uncomfortable Karrimor pack, I tottered down the track, then left for a bit and right until reaching the remains of an old bridge across the only water channel leading out into Loch Quoich.

The filled-in area across the mouth of the loch at the start of the walk-in

Maps still seem to show a very wide stretch of water across this section, but in reality, at least when I was there (which was after a few weeks of little rain), the channel is only about 10 yards wide and was so shallow, I could step across on dry rocks.
The walk along the coast was a mixture of remnants of the old road and a narrow path contouring above the loch.

An hour into the walk-in, not far until the first potential problem – crossing the Abhainn Chosaidh

Progress was steady and as I approached the outflow of the Abhainn Chosaidh, I was delighted to see it was only a few inches deep and could cross easily on half-submerged rocks. The path then became rather indistinct for a while until the old road re-emerged, which, although frequently boggy, made for easier walking. The views across to Sgurr Mor and Sgurr nan Coireachan and the eastern end of the Druim Chosaidh were a welcome distraction from the squelchy track, and rounding a corner, Ben Aden came into view, peaking over the shoulder of Meall an Spardain.

The old road with Ben Aden off to the right in the distance

The two dams now came into view and soon I was crossing the first one and heading out onto the large raised grassy area above the loch, looking for a good place to camp. A flattish area just above the rocks looked good enough and with relief, I dumped the rucksack and pitched the tent. It had taken just under 3 hours for the walk-in.

A campsite with a view - Sgurr nan Coireachan behind

There was a useful breeze blowing to keep off any midges as I cooked up a pasta meal and feeling exhausted after the long drive and walk, I retired to the tent and was asleep by 8:30, despite the sun still shining brightly!

The big day!
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After a good sleep, I was up at 5:15, stoking up on tea and porridge. Cloud was swirling around and covering the higher hills, but the forecast was for it to lift within a few hours, so I wasn’t too concerned. At 6:20 I set off back towards the dam and onto the old road for a few yards before heading straight up the hillside. The gradient wasn’t as steep as it had looked from below and the route up to the Bealach an Fhuarain was pretty easy with only the occasional small crag to wend around.

Arriving at the Bealach an Fhuarain after an hour from camp – the cloud beginning to thin

As expected, the views from the ridge were stunning, with shafts of sun breaking through the clouds and reflecting off the distant eastern end of Loch Quoich and high peaks rolling away into the distance on both sides.

The sun beginning to break through the early morning clouds

Progress along the complex ridge was initially easy with a few minor ups and downs and some steep rounded pinnacles that appeared to block progress but were in fact easily bypassed. The large bulk of Sgurr Airigh na Beinne then loomed ahead but this presented no problems and I passed directly over the top of it.

Sgurr Airigh na Beinne with shafts of sun beginning to lighten up the minor tops beyond

The peak of Sgurr a’ Choire-bheithe now came into view for the first time, although still quite a way off and with several minor tops in between.

The view along the ridge to Sgurr a’ Choire-bheithe with a few rocky tops on the way

The next obstacle now appeared dead ahead – an imposingly steep and craggy top with no alternative but to go over the top. This was, however, easily overcome with a gentle descent down the far side and the easier slopes leading all the way up to the summit and the welcome sight of the summit cairn.

The last main obstacle before the pull up to Sgurr a’ Choire-bheithe

The summit cairn looking west

Looking east from the summit

It had taken just 3 hours from leaving the tent – quite a bit faster than I had estimated. Sitting down for a rest, I was amazed to find I had a decent mobile signal – the first time since I’d left the car the previous day. I messaged my wife and we ‘chatted’ for a bit and making the most of it, I did my daily dose of Wordle and then a Duolingo Gaelic lesson to keep up my long run of consecutive days (it was over 170 at the time!!). I wandered over to the slightly lower cairn on the edge of the summit plateau, took a few photos and on the way back to my pack, was surprised to see someone else who had just come up from Barisdale.

Looking down the west ridge with Luinne Bheinn behind and Ladhar Bheinn away on the right

My next objective – Ben Aden

We chatted for a bit – he said he was off to Ben Aden next as well, but I didn’t ask which route he was taking and we didn’t meet up again anyway! I then set off down the west ridge to the flatter section and began dropping quickly down the steep grassy slopes to the south. It looked like a straight run down, but a number of hidden drop-offs forced me to steer a route further east following long grassy runs between the crags.

Looking across to Ben Aden from halfway down to the Mam Undulainn

The going became easier once I’d lost a lot of height and I could see the path over the Mam Undulainn not far below, but there was still a disheartening lot of height to lose to get down to the River Carnach. On reaching the path, heavily churned up in places, I could pick up the pace and turning right at a tiny cairn, was soon down at the river. As I’d descended, the huge complex rocky peak of Ben Aden loomed majestically ahead and at the river, the scenery, with trees, cliff-faces and river had the air of the land that time had forgot.

River Carnach at the base of the NW ridge of Ben Aden

I met only the second person I saw all day coming the other way, a lady who was attempting the Cape Wrath Trail – we chatted for a few minutes and wished each other well on our respective journeys. Traces of a path followed the river down and on reaching a wooded area, the glen narrowed, forcing the path up the hillside, opposite the foot of the huge NW ridge. I had thought there may be a way onto that ridge from this point, but even if I could cross the river, cliffs and steep crags barred any further progress up. Past the narrowing, the glen opened out and the high path became somewhat indistinct.
I made a gradual descent back down to the river and looked for a crossing point.

The view up to the NW shoulder of Ben Aden from the point where I crossed the river

Although it looked fairly benign, I could sense the water was over a foot deep in places, between slippery boulders, so I put on my custom-made rubble-bags and waded across. Now began the hardest part of the day, the ascent up to the NW ridge, a 600m height gain on relentlessly steep but mostly grassy terrain, with a few rock steps to clamber up or around. I was beginning to feel quite weary by now and stopped several times to enjoy the expanding vistas.

Looking across to Luinne Bheinn and other peaks leading round to Meall Buidhe

After 90 minutes of energy-sapping climbing, I finally reached the flatter ground of the upper part of the NW ridge, turned to the right and headed on much easier ground up to the summit.

The easier ground just 5 minutes from the summit

Finally at just after 3pm, with huge relief and satisfaction, I reached the top with its dip in the middle. This was my 221st Corbett but it really felt like the final one (no disrespect to Beinn Chuirn!). It was just after 3pm and I only had to get down to my tent, so spent far longer on top than I usually do, eating, taking photos and gazing at the views all round. The view across to the relatively close Sgurr na Ciche was particularly striking.

The summit cairn on Ben Aden, looking west to Meall Buidhe and Luinne Bheinn

The north face of Sgurr na Ciche

I took a 360 degree video as a reminder of this special place and then began to list the highlights of my Corbett journey, which had started back in 1995 with Am Bathach, at the end of a day of Munros in Glen Shiel. My top 10 days, in no particular order:
This one
Askival & Ainshval on Rum
Paps of Jura
Meall Horn, Foinaven & Arkle in one long day
Beinn Dearg Bheag and Beinn Dearg Mor
Beinn an Eoin & Baosbheinn
Ben Tee with a cloud inversion followed by Sgurr Innse and Cruach Innse
An Sidhean, Bac an Eich followed by Meallan nan Uan and Sgurra’ Mhuilinn
Ben Loyal
Breabag

Looking across to Sgurr a’ Choire-bheithe

The view down the NE ridge with Loch Quoich way below

With one last look around, I set off down to the east and headed for the start of the Allt Coire na Cruaiche. Following the stream down was a lot harder than I’d been expecting, with numerous crossings as it went through small ravines and down some steep drops. Eventually, the gradient eased as the glen opened out and veered round towards the dams.

Looking back up Coire na Cruaiche from near the bottom

At last, feeling very weary, but elated with how the day had gone, I reached my tent and got a brew on. The strong mug of tea went down a treat as I sat and enjoyed the early evening sunshine. Another pasta dinner and I was ready to crash soon after.
Bha latha sgoinneil!


The day after
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Another good sleep and I was up early with the low sun already lighting up the hills.

Early morning sun to greet the day

Looking due south from the tent

I was away by 6:30 and striding along the old road. The walk back felt easier than on the way out and I was back at the car just before 9:30. Perhaps I could get used to this backpacking lark – but I’ll need to get a more comfortable rucksack first!
I then drove the short distance to the small car parking area by the bridge and went up Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich – unfortunately the early morning sunshine had given way to cloud which held steady at 800m, so I didn’t get any views for a third of the walk – I couldn’t complain though after the previous two days!

[Plug]

Very impressive, big day out in great scenery. Lots of excellent detail to consider for when I attempt these hills. Thanks.

[Malcolm Nash]

Thanks very much Dave for your very informative post and I'm hoping to follow in your footsteps next year 2024, Thanks Malcolm.

[prog99]

I’ve done this loop but in reverse. Descending Ben Aden was thought provoking at times, in the end we followed a deer off of the hill
Looks much better and safer your way round.

[DaveSan]

Thanks very much Dave for your very informative post and I'm hoping to follow in your footsteps next year 2024, Thanks Malcolm.

Thanks Malcolm - I look forward to hearing about your experiences on this route - I hope you get some nice dry weather for it - all the best.

[DaveSan]

I’ve done this loop but in reverse. Descending Ben Aden was thought provoking at times, in the end we followed a deer off of the hill
Looks much better and safer your way round.

Yes I would imagine doing it in reverse would be 'interesting' in places - not only dropping down the SW side of Ben Aden, but also the numerous rocky lumps heading east from Sgurr a' Choice-bheithe which are probably a fair bit easier going east to west.