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- The route, copied from rockhopper - thank you
Many months in the planning. The excitement and worry building. What would the weather be like? Would my Achilles hold out? Will the midges be hellish? Will we get any water on the hill. Well it all came together beautifully with perfect weather, hardly any midges (on the hill), no injuries and my first camp out up a mountain proper like. Oooh at my age too. Nice to know there is still time for firsts in your fifties.
There were nine of us, meeting up at various times and doing bits of this but I'll stick with the main group whose plan it always was to do all three with a camp out up top somewhere.
We'd sneaked in an extra day in the campervan at Arisaig just to soak up the sun and wilderness, especially as our youngest was undertaking his rite of passage with his post school, end of exam boys' trip to Magaluf!!! With lists made, ticked off, maps checked, rucksacks packed, calorific pasta meal cooked and frozen in ziplock bags we got the 2.30pm boat on the Thursday in utterly sublime weather with three others. On arriving at Inverie, the boat crew then got us working for our passage as we formed a chain gang to off load all the luggage, supplies, food, parcels etc. up to the waiting residents. Nice to be part of the community.
At the last minute we'd taken our bikes over and were very glad we did so. It's a good stretch of the legs from the ferry round to the campsite (where the other three were staying) and the bunkhouse (where we had booked into to avoid potential bad weather and midges). We wheeched round wobbling a bit with the packs and checked in. We were in a very warm dorm of 8 with no midge nets on the windows
A sense of foreboding overcame me - I can't sleep in a stuffy room and I hate midges coz they seem to love me.
Anyhoo, we wandered round to campsite to help the others but they'd already gotten set up. They'd brought in two tents, one to remain at base camp and lighter ones for up the hill.
- A very pleasant evening at base camp
As we sat enjoying a beer, the ranger came round to chat to us. He was a very pleasant chap with lots of good local knowledge. Forewarned us of the bracken though said there would be a path through and that there would be no water up the hill (he was right).
There was a nice breeze keeping the midges away and we gazed at where we were going in the morning, not wanting to set off too early and get to camp too early. We went back to the bunkhouse and had a cuppa in the common room which, with it's high ceiling, was pleasantly cool. The dorm however was unpleasantly warm, with a poor kid worse for wear with a stinking cold. No windows open coz of the midges outside so my night was hellish and almost wished I was in the tent.
Still had a good breakfast, retrieved frozen dinner, loaded up the flapjacks and proceeded down to the camp to see how the others had fared - better than us it turned out.
We headed off just after 9am and enjoyed the glorious morning. Easy walking along the track, past the bothy, across the wee bridge then we hit the bracken. I'd kept my longs on - can't be bothered having to slap sunscreen and insect spray on constantly. By the time we'd waded through my trousers were covered in the tiniest of ticks. Bleugh.
- The bracken - tick central
The going was pretty easy, even with the packs on. We all got into our stride fine and got onto the ridge for the final pull up to the summit of Meall Buidhe and I'm afraid I can't remember how long it took exactly but about 4 hours seems a fair idea. For some reason we never took that many pics here. We were thankful that it was a bit overcast at this point so we weren't under the burning heat yet, which would have made it all the harder.
- Somewhere on a mountain
As we plodded on the Luinne Beinn the sun finally broke through and it was time to remove some clothing.
- Clothing removal time
It's only when you're up there you realise the distance between the two. On we plodded and still enjoying it.
- Lyns wins biggest backpack prize
Conscious of the ranger's words when we got to Mam Barrisdale (just after 1700) we decided to just camp there right at the top of the pass, mainly because the breeze was good so would keep the midges at bay and hydro engineer hubby had sussed out where the water was. Off he and Rob trotted over the pass armed with every bottle and all the water bladders. They came back about 30 mins later having found a great spot and had a wee wash there as well as drinking their fill and filling up all the vessels.
Tents erected, our frozen pasta proved to still be slightly frozen so I sat it out on a rock to thaw a bit more. It also did a great job of keeping enormous bars of chocolate from melting.
- Camping at Mam Barrisdale
- Awaiting dinner
- A mighty fine camping spot
- Another camp pic
Dinner scoffed, tea and chocolate consumed there was nowt to do but hit the sack early. Think it was about 2040 when I crawled into my sleeping back and was happy to just lie and chill. I knew I wouldn't get a solid sleep but at least lying horizontal for a while would do me good for recuperation.
It also meant up bright and early for the next day and we set off about 0720, leaving no trace.
- It's 0718 and we're ready for the off
- A big baw face as my mother would say
The way up Ladhar Bheinn had a few scramble bits, made all the more difficult with a big pack on but nothing too hellish.
- Scrambling with full pack
No mist today and the sun was out and the views sublime.
- But the views make it worth it
- The ladies enjoying a different view
The walking once on the ridge was easy and we were all having just the best time.
- Cheeky wee clouds
- This is just magic
- Mair views
Got to the top about 1100 feeling very chuffed with ourselves. Lazed around up there for a bit just drinking it all in.
- Ladhar Bheinn no.200 for me!
- Dramatic final shot
Then it was the big walk out. It wasn't too bad coming off the hill, it just seemed to go on a bit. Once we reached the road it was just a yomp until the bridge where we bathed our tootsies for a bit before the final hike back to Inverie, getting in about 1430.
So 8hrs walking the first day and 7hrs the second day. Kudos to anyone who does it in a oner.
We chilled a bit at the Table (set up as a gathering spot by the locals when the unpopular previous owner of The Old Forge was still in residence). The pub itself was still undergoing renovations since the local community buy out but it was looking good. Fortunately the wee shop was open for buying beer and cider.
Some went for a swim, we returned to the bunkhouse for a shower. No breeze so midges everywhere. Worst part was the ladies shower. There are three doors to get through but as folk kept leaving them open I found myself in a confined space, naked, with hunners of the wee b$%^&s accessing areas they never should. How utterly unpleasant and hurried.
Some of our party were getting the 3pm ferry back to Mallaig, and the other two we finally met up with (they were only climbing Ladhar Bheinn having come over on the boat on Friday).
The remainder of us had booked dinner at The Lookout that evening and would recommend - it was a great way to round off this adventure and the haggis nachos were delish.
Back to the bunkhouse for yet another unpleasant, hot night, this time with two snorers. Noted poor hubby just leaving room in middle of the night with duvet round him to go sleep on the sofa in the common room.
But let's not dwell on the negative. This was a brilliant weekend and will remember it for a long time.
