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This is my second walk report from Arran, where I spend some of May trying to complete three classic scrambles/climbs. The first report covering the A'Chir ridge (completed as part of a round of Glen Rosa) can be found here:
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=119094 . This second report covers the Witch's Step, as part of a traverse of Caisteal Abhail.
While there are a few online accounts of people completing the A'Chir traverse solo and without ropes, the impression given by many online discussions (here, and on UK Climbing) is that the direct ascent of the Witch's Step is harder. It's rated "Very Difficult" (the slightly misleading classification for a definite rock climb rather than a scramble, but towards the lower levels of difficulty). Comments online suggested it is an awkward, insecure climb, towards the top of the Very Difficult classification or possibly under-classified.
Additionally, I was not sure of the ascent route. There are many photographs of the "crux" section of the climb (which comes near the start), including the following picture of old-timey climbers in Highland Scrambles South. But I had not been able to find any pictures showing the route taken during the upper sections of the climb. (Please see the body of this report, however: I have provided a route photograph and description. Looking back at the Highland Scrambles description, I am sure I followed the right route.)
- The climbers are far better dressed than me.
Given my research, I was not at all sure I would make it up the direct route. But I was resolved to have a look at the climb and, if it proved to much, I knew there was a bypass path plus an alternative grade 2 scrambling route further round to the left.
So what was the outcome? I actually found the Witch's Step to be a superb, reasonably secure climb, with one difficult move but not at a point that felt especially exposed. I thought it was easier than the A'Chir ridge, but still utterly thrilling. Additionally, the walk over Caisteal Abhail was probably the highlight of my holiday -- astoundingly good views, and lots of optional climbing on the summit tors, also pictured below.
But note that I was climbing the Witch's Step in dry, sunny, still weather. It might well be a very different story in the wet. I also had the advantage of being quite tall (which helps in reaching the main handhold at the crux), and the disadvantage of carrying a large rucksack with poles. It got stuck at a couple of points. Opt for a small (or no) rucksack if you can.
Anyway, let's get to the walk. The 17th May was a sunny day, with light wind and a little bit of haze. On a crystal clear day, the views from this mountain might be unparalleled. The traverse of Caisteal Abhail is an excellent walk, regardless of whether one tackles the Witch's Step. It starts on a good track alongside the pleasantly wooded North Sannox Burn. The path becomes a bit less distinct above the tree line, with a few minor boggy patches, then becomes better during the ascent of Sail an Im. Approaching Caisteal Abhail from this angle has the benefit that the entire ridge can be seen from the start, with the Witch's Step appearing as a very obvious (and steep) cleft in the skyline.
- North Sannox Burn
- The Witch's Step, looking ominous
The climb up Sail an Im and then on to Creag Dhubh and Càrn Mòr is not too steep and comes in stages. It would make a nice descent route, especially if knees are acting up. From the shoulder of Creag Dhubh it was rapidly becoming clear that this was going to be a superb day. The full ridge was spread out on my left, while to the right, the Paps of Jura appeared on the horizon over the Kintyre Peninsula.
- Looking across the full Caisteal Abhail ridge
- The Paps of Jura appear. More on them later...
A gentle ridge walk leads towards the top. At the shoulder of the summit of Caisteal Abhail, Beinn Tarsuinn appears followed by the jagged A'Chir ridge, seen edge-on. The flat top of Caisteal Abhail, with its tors, looks like it has been transplanted out of the Cairngorms. And still the views over the sea to Kintyre and the Paps of Jura were stunning.
- The A'Chir Ridge has some serious "wow" factor
- Zoomed out, with lonely Glen Iorsa
- Approaching the summit tors
- Gods, what a view!
As I wasn't in a rush and it was a beautiful day, I took the time to climb the tors. The first (that provides the gateway to the plateau) is an easy scramble, both up and down the other side, although there are some sizable drops requiring care. The rear (steeper) side of it is visible in the first photograph below. I'm not sure I have a good photograph of the second, free-standing tor, just a photograph taken from the top looking towards the summit -- see the second picture below. It is climbable (with a little difficulty) on large blocks on the further side (the eastern corner). The third tor is climbable without using the hands, but reveals a deep cleft between it and the summit tor. It provides a great viewing platform for the rest of Arran's Corbetts.
- The first tor
- Towards the summit from the second tor
- Just wow!
The usual route to the summit is to pass the penultimate tor on the left, cross the wide grassy gully between it and summit, pass the summit on the left via a path, and then loop back to climb the summit from the other side via a short, easy scramble (see the fourth picture below). But looking at the summit tor, I reckoned there was a fun route up the steeper side. And there is, traced in red below. It's probably a grade 3 scramble (and an excellent one on firm rock). There are no tricky moves, but the exposure is quite high and there is a little bit of inching around ledges. The third picture is taken from the top of the climb.
- The summit
- The optional scramble
- The top of the optional scramble
- The usual route to the summit
The ridge from the top of Caisteal Abhail towards the Witch's Step is quite rugged, with plenty of optional and some unavoidable scrambling. Throughout the walk, the views of Cìr Mhòr are incredible. I thought it looked impressive from Glen Rosa, yet the north side is even better. The peak seems so close, over an impossibly deep gulf in between. I couldn't resist photographing it from every lump on the ridge.
- Lots of scrambling on the ridge down from the summit of Caisteal Abhail.
- Cìr Mhòr. Feels like a stone's throw away.
- Goat Fell is quite impressive too.
- Cìr Mhòr again
- And again.
The Witch's Step doesn't come into view until the top of the cleft in the ridge on the other side. But from the cleft, nearly the full climb is visible. The descent to the base of the cleft is a steep scramble (I'd say, high level grade 1), but, handled with care, is not too bad. It is not loose.
The other side is another matter. A path is visible going off on the left, down and around the cliff, but might be difficult to spot in mist or rain. The direct route starts clambering up the rocks where the two women are standing in the old picture and on to the rock where the man with the rope is standing. This initial section is actually very straightforward in the dry. And the steep drop on the left is further away than it looks; it doesn't feel as if one is standing near the edge. I stood a meter or two onward from where the man in the picture was standing, on a comfortable ledge. However, the next move onto the flat rock ahead is challenging, and explains the Very Difficult rating.
I could reach a good handhold in the middle of the slab. But there is no foothold -- hence the difficulty. I wasn't sure initially how to progress. One can wriggle a bit into the crack on the right, but my rucksack was blocking me. So I posted my bag up onto the slab ahead and over to the right; the slab is steep but extends further round to the right, so once a person is standing on it they can just rest their back against the cliff and have a rest. Then I stuck my right shoulder into the crack (chest against the slab, should blade against the cliff) and used it as a lever to step up onto the slab. It was a bit strenuous, but not too bad, and didn't feel exposed.
Once standing on the slab, I retrieved my bag, and ascended the slab with a careful two-step. There is enough purchase (just about) in the dry, but these moves are much more exposed than the prior crux move. Above the initial climb, the route heads upward in a pretty straight line, climbing a series of cracks with small but solid footholds. I've provided a diagram of the rest of the route in red (in the photograph below).
Near the top, there is a choice of route. The yellow line continues up a very steep crack, which would be possible to climb, but at least a Very Difficult rating (probably somewhere in the Severes). The intended route goes right at the point the red line ends (following the red arrow). It involves some exposed moves of about Moderate level, and then squeezes between two huge rocks at the summit. My rucksack got stuck again and I had to take it off.
- The Witch's Step in all its glory
- The route (red line, turning right at the top; the yellow line would be much more challenging)
- The start of the route
- Above the crux, looking down at the slab, the crack, and the wall you can rest your back on.
- Climbing cracks in the gully (final long section leading to the right turn)
- Looking down near the top of the climb shortly after the right turn (enjoy the shoes)
- It's quite steep at the end. The yellow route would go up the crack shown
There are some vertiginous rocks to inch around and then the actual summit is approached from the other side (via a step up across a deep gap, rather like the summit of A'Chir).
- The summit of the Witch's Step
- The views are still excellent
The rest of the ridge over Suidhe Fhearghas leaves the rocky drama behind, but I kept feasting on the views, enjoying the steep drop into Glen Sannox on the right.
- The ridge over Suidhe Fhearghas, with Glen Sannox to the right and the mainland over the sea ahead
- Looking back at the ridge
- Looking down to Glen Sannox
The path back to North Glen Sannox drops very steeply down slippery rock and heather on the nose of Suidhe Fhearghas and is occasionally difficult to follow. But it has the benefit of directness and views of the sea.
- Heading back to the sea
The sea seems like a good place to finish. Leaving Arran from Lochranza days later, Caisteal Abhail and the Witch's Step remained silhouetted against the sky, a reminder of one of my best days in the mountains.
- The Witches Step and the tors of Caisteal Abhail still visible leaving Arran
- A final look at Arran (for now)
