Scotland's Watershed Part 16 A837 to not very far

[rohan]

I’m very good at excuses and here are my top 5 for avoiding getting back on with completing the Watershed
1)Weather, its either too hot or too cold
Too wet or too dry (well maybe not the latter)
Too windy or too still (think midges)
Too thundery
2)Beasties ..midges or cleggs or both (later combined with heat drives me insane)
3)Buses or lack of them on the right day.
4)Systems failures (mainly connected to battery and phone charging and mean I have to leave the Watershed earlier than planned all down to my failure to prepare properly)
5)Me failures, most notably an accident on a non-watershed outing which involved @ 20 m tumble, a head injury (now I have a permanent dent), a mountain rescue call out and 23 staples in my head. Thank-you to all who assisted me and to Killin MR who stretchered me off the hill.
I have also acquired a bit of a hip problem.
Just like actually continuing my walk I’ve been putting off writing this rather pitiful report but as my memory of it starts to fade, I feel the need to press on with it however short it is on progress.

In 2021 I left the Watershed where it crosses the A837. I had had a brilliant few days crossing from Braemore Junction, my TR can be read here https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=106089
I did muse then that it may take another 4 years for me to complete the Watershed and here we are another 2 years on. Ah well. From the A837 the Watershed climbs up over various knobbles and through some forestry before heading over the bulk of Breabag dipping down to cross Bealach Trallgill and climbing again up the S.E. shoulder of Conival, the final Munro on the Watershed
Previous Watershedders had described this latter ridge as a “airy scramble”
Walkhighlands description of climbing Conival includes the words “A continuation to Breabag involves extremely steep and difficult ground to the bealach below Conival - perhaps better attempted in ascent.”
Cairngormcreeper’s account (the only people on WH that appear to have taken this route and written about it) cheerily introduces it as “We found a description for the route in Highlands Scrambles North Which graded it as 2/3 scramble, so we decided to give it a try.”
I found a photo on flickr
Pinnacles on Conival SE ridge by alanp6, on Flickr

My research suggested that I needed some assistance and planning so I called on my wee brother, Angus, who I knew was a calm, reassuring voice. His interests were mainly climbing but with age his thoughts had turned to walking and climbing the Munros he hadn’t reached as yet.
My fall put paid to our plan to tackle it in May 2022. We had both been marshalling on the Stuc a Chroin hill race when I had my tumble.
Here I am still putting off writing this damn report, confessing to being reluctant to put one foot in front of another so cut to 20th April 2023 when we finally we made another plan Angus would go off and Climb Ben Hope and Klibreck whilst I walked over the Watershed to meet him below Conival but now I had decided that with a dodgy hip (I am struggling when I cross stiles or fences) and an increased fear of exposure that I would miss out the SE ridge and meet Angus at the path on the usual route up the side of Allt a’ Choinne Mhill.
First problem was that I misread the bus timetable and almost got stuck in Ullapool. It took a couple of hours of hitching before I was picked up and I am ashamed to say I have forgotten the name of the lovely woman who gave me the lift. In between times I had found out that even midweek accommodation in Ullapool was extremely expensive and in any case there were no vacancies (NC500 effect). I only had my bivvy bag so I didn’t think the campsite would take me.
This meant that I started walking around 7.30 pm (from Ledmore Jumction) which is 4 miles NW from were the Watershed crosses the A837. The evening and the views were spectacular but the miles seemed long.
First sight of Breabag from A837 by Seal54, on Flickr

Suilven and Cul Mor and Cul Beag from A837 by Seal54, on Flickr

The late start meant I fell far short of my intended camp at the top of Cnoc Chaornaidh. I wanted to avoid fence crossings as these aggravated my hip so stuck to the track that heads up to Benmore Lodge and camped just off it. Second problem was water with very little in the streams and I knew I would need to fill up before tackling Breabag. Third problem was I slept badly.

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21/04/2023
Next morning, I headed up to the trig point on Cnoc Chaornaidh . There were remnants of cloud inversion but the sun was well up. Cloud obscured the distantly remembered Seana Bhraigh and Beinn Dearg Hills from my last outing 2 years ago.

Early morning traces of cloud around Cul beag by Seal54, on Flickr

Cloud wreaths around Breabag by Seal54, on Flickr

Trig point at Cnoc Chaornaidh by Seal54, on Flickr

Trig point Cnoc Chaornaidh with cloud wreathed Breabag behind by Seal54, on Flickr

Looking over trig point at Cnoc Chaornaidh to Watershed already completed by Seal54, on Flickr


Returning to the track I dropped my bag at a fork in the track where the Watershed goes off to the left (NC 304 091). I walked on ½ mile to the River Oykell and filled up my water. Time was rushing on, faster than the water flowing down the Glen and dominating the skyline ahead of me was the great mass of Breabag. Back at my bag I hoisted it on and plodded on, feeling as if I had Breabag itself on my back. The OS map hasn’t caught up with the recent fellings and I had been looking for a firebreak through the trees but with no trees this was not so obvious. However, as I headed through the tree stumps to the next unnamed bump on my route, I realised that I was in the old firebreak. The ground had been cleared of brash as well making for relatively easy passage. That is unless it is your first big hill outing for a year.

I reached the 357 bump, sitting above Loch a’ Mheallain. I could see Ben Klibreck in the distance, waved to my brother and posted a video to the family Whatsapp group. and, despite having covered only 4 miles,I felt sorely in need of a rest and next minute I was fast asleep in the pleasantly warm sunshine. When I woke (probably only a few minutes later), Breabag was still looking as massive and as distant as ever with the Watershed route looking exceptionally steep and grassy. I continued wearily on over a couple more bumps struggling all the way.

Klibreck in distance, Loch Ailsh behind my walking pole by Seal54, on Flickr

Loch a' Mheallain and a very pleasant spot for a nap by Seal54, on Flickr


I had a deer fence in front of me. I could see an easy route down to the A837, I had hit a wall unused to being off piste I had done very little off track and was struggling already. It was midday and I felt overwhelmed with what was ahead. I could see no way of getting to the meeting point with my brother tomorrow in time to climb Conival the same day, then I would waste his day and also fail to get to the A838 in time for the Monday bus (the next one not due to Wednesday). I whatsapped my brother. After some back and forth and some confusion (on his part) regarding whether it was Ledmore or Braemore junction, we arranged for him to pick me up at Ledmore (phew!) that evening. I was pleased that I then managed to climb the deer fence without too much difficulty though I was annoyed that I was once again tramping up the road to Ledmore Junction. If (and it was a big IF) I returned to the Watershed I would have to walk this stretch of road again.

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On the way back to Inverness we stopped overnight in the Fannaichs and Angus climbed Beinn Liath Mhòr Fannaich the next day while I dossed about feeling sorry for myself and vexed for Angus who had missed out on two Munros. The weather was in fact turning and he missed out on views from the summit of BLMF.

07/06/2023
Things went from bad to worse over the next few weeks. My hip played up, I stopped doing my exercises, I stopped enjoying walking and my hip got worse. I resigned myself to my serious walking days being over and tried not to dwell on it. Eventually, after some gentle prodding from my sister and some visitors, I restarted my exercises, my hip improved, my walking improved, my mood improved and following a successful 11 mile walk over the Hill of Cat and a good forecast, a spur of the moment decision and I was back on the bus to Inverness, this time in time for my connections with the Ullapool, then Ledmore Junction buses. On the way I texted my brother and confessed that I was away without him. Ever amenable he reassured me that he, himself wasn’t up for it and was happy for me to go ahead without me. This outing I had no pressure of time. The weather was good for the week ahead although possibly with thunderstorms at the weekend but by then I would be just about finished my planned section at A838. The Durness Bus to Lairg was on the summer timetable so if I missed the Monday bus there would be one on the Tuesday, I just needed to phone the company the night before to ensure I had a seat.
Amongst the other passengers heading for Ullapool was another obvious walker. We swopped details of our plans. He was heading for the Beinn Dearg group and Seana Bhràigh. He had heard of the Watershed and in researching his own trip had recently read a blog of someone walking it who had reached Braemore Junction a few weeks ago. He couldn’t remember their name. They would be well ahead of me and if doing it in a continuous journey, finished. I mentally wished them well and would look them up when I returned home. I mentioned that I updated my own Watership trip on WH and gave him my name.
My journey continued without incident. I wasn’t looking forward to yet again tramping down the road from Ledmore Junction, at least this time I had filled up my water in Inverness (Asher’s café) and could also cut the corner to where I had left the Watershed just my side of the deer fence.

Rejoining the Watershed and looking to the spear of Suilven by Seal54, on Flickr

Looking over the deer fence to the knobbles of the Watershed that had finished me on the last outing by Seal54, on Flickr


In fact, in fine weather with a cooling breeze I made reasonable (for me) progress and found myself back where I had left in April. Ahead the steep slope of Breabag looked intimidating but not as huge as I remembered. First there was another deer fence to cross just before Ruighe-Chnoc (369m)

It was a rather dishevelled barrier, with the strainer post supports looking ready to break. I unpacked my bag as much as I could, feeding the contents through the rylock and then tried to climb up. My first attempt failed with fence wobbling alarmingly and I felt stymied until a bit of loose rylock to my left caught my attention. There was a huge gap just a few yards away. I had a good laugh at myself, walked round and repacked my bag. Ruighe Chnoc was far less of a barrier than it had seemed last time out when everything appeared huge. I was distracted by looking at the Breabag slope ahead… steep, heathery and grassy, steepening as it neared the broad ridge that was my objective for this evening. I looked at alternatives and decided that I would contour round to the broader S.E. ridge of Sgonnan Beag. I had set off a group of deer and they barked at me as I started up the lower slopes of Breabag. I stopped to fuel up with water and a snicker to give me a boost before the climb. This seemed to upset the deer who continued to bark at me... “Calm down, deer”.

Just step through here, the broken deer fence by Seal54, on Flickr

Vaguely thinking that I should try and tackle the steep route, it’s always better on the way up. I set off again and almost stepped on a sleeping fawn that had been mere feet away from me. I retreated a little and was able to take a very quick photo before moving as fast as I could, uphill and away from it to try and reduce the distress to the mother who was agitating above me. The fawn remained asleep and was oblivious to the threat. I continued the direct, Watershed route which was not too bad. Imagined demons put aside for now. The wild flowers were firing on all cylinders but I resisted temptation to photograph them.

Fast asleep fawn by Seal54, on Flickr

I reached the gentler slopes and started to look for a camp site before the vegetation turned to the shattered, stoney ground that gave Breabag its grey appearance. I had been slow but my hip was fine and I had put the first intimidating slope behind me. Ahead the Watershed twists and turns, up and down over the great mass of Breabag but with most ascents less than 200 m and nothing too steep, I felt confident. I had a beautiful view of the NW highlands and a faint hint of the Western Isles on the horizon. A stiff breeze kept any midges away. This was more like it.

Not so steep after all. by Seal54, on Flickr

Over the steepest part and enjoying the view by Seal54, on Flickr

Nice spot for a camp by Seal54, on Flickr

Late evening view by Seal54, on Flickr


View to Seana Bhraigh and Beinn Dearg (zoomed) by Seal54, on Flickr

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08/06/2023
As usual, first night out I slept badly, so was slow to start but I wasn’t worried as I was in no great hurry. I eventually started off at a relaxed 10.00 am after a very leisurely breakfast drinking in the views along with my coffee. Happy memories of my walk across from Braemore Junction 2 years ago reminded me of what I had acheived so far. Less happy memories of how I had struggled back in April encouraged me that I was now in a much better place , physically and mentally.

Morning view by Seal54, on Flickr

The view that kept giving by Seal54, on Flickr

Looking back along the Watershed, the knobbles above Loch a' Mheallain (middle distance) looking very spine like by Seal54, on Flickr

Loch Ailsh to left and draining to North Sea, small Loch a' Mheallain on right draining to Atlantic by Seal54, on Flickr


Breabag is a far more complex mountain than encountered on the usual route up from the A 837, the way I had first (and the only previous time) climbed it in February 2006. Then there had been snow and ice underfoot and the cloud was low affording no views. I remember deteriorating conditions and keeping my head down as I battled to the summit. Today was a complete contrast and the walking relatively easy initially across short, mossy vegetation as far as Bealach Choinnich. Then the terrain changed to dry quartzite rock with a liberal outcrops of pipe rock (trace fossils of marine organisms that had burrowed in the shallow seas) overlying it. The conditions were nigh on perfect with just a summer haze obscuring long distance views. The brisk breeze meant an absence of midges and kept the temperature comfortable. There was a considerable amount of up and down and I made slow progress but it was such a great walk I didn't care. Ahead, the crags of Conival and Ben More Assynt dominated my view with Ben Hee (I think, rather than Ben Hope but happy to be corrected) peeking up behind but also as I twisted and turned the distinctive shapes of Cansip, Quinag, Cul beag and Mor came in and out of view. Over to the NE Klibreck was visible for the first half of the walk. Whatever was ahead of me this was an impressive walk and the realisation that I was running out of the Scottish mainland and with it the end of the Watershed gave me cause for some hope.

Short, mossy lichen turf to begin with Conival and Ben More Assynt ahead. These dominated the forward view for the rest of the day

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2oK7H8m]Ben More Assynt, with Benn Hee in the dip before Meall an Anaoich and Klibreck behind. by Seal54, on Flickr

Canisp to left, Breabag summit ahead, Conival to right by Seal54, on Flickr

Getting to the grey stuff! by Seal54, on Flickr

View west from Bealach Choinnich by Seal54, on Flickr

View to Ben More from Bealach Choinnich by Seal54, on Flickr

Pipe rock showing top (nodules) and side (stripes) view. Pole for scale. by Seal54, on Flickr

Natures colours, thrift amongst the quartzite by Seal54, on Flickr

Paving slabs! by Seal54, on Flickr

Views to Conival and Ben More Assynt by Seal54, on Flickr


I stopped by a lochan just below the 815m summit. I wanted a little shelter out of the breeze to brew up my lunch. First I popped up to the summit took the requisite photos and was just settling back down for lunch when a long legged walker appeared behind me. He strode off to the summit re-appearing a short while later but not stopping and with only a brief acknowledgement of my greeting. Not everyone wants to chat. He was going at a pace I could only dream of but it is not a race and I am doing no bad even with my gammy hip. I decided not to have a dip… the lochan was very shallow and there would be nowhere to hide if anyone else appeared. (that’s my excuse and I’m sticking to it) I figured that I would have further chances over the other side of Conival.

Pano Breabag sumit by Seal54, on Flickr

R-L Canisp , Suilven, Cul Beag from Summit Cairn by Seal54, on Flickr

View back along Watershed, initially down the broad ridge of Breabag then wiggling off to the right and towrards the hills in the far distance by Seal54, on Flickr

Conival and Ben More Assynt from summit of Breabag by Seal54, on Flickr


It was about this time I noticed that my phone (on supersave battery) was rather low. I plugged it into my brick of a powerpack and didn’t think much more about it. The brick has loads of power in it (if I remember to charge it) This meant I had to stow my phone so it wasn’t so easy to take photos.

Continuing on, I had another close encounter with nature. An adult ptarmigan came screeching out from under rock rushing at me with a very angry attitude, I thought she was going to peck me and struggled to avoid treading on her. Her chicks came bundling out after her and dispersed downslope twittering in panic. Mother ptarmigan rushed around my feet, zig-zagging rapidly. I tried to get out of her way but she turned as I turned. I just wanted her to go and round up her chicks before a real threat appeared in the form of ravens or bigger but as I went faster, so did she. This went on for a least 50 metres until she finally decided that she had driven me away from her chicks and she flew back to them. I continued, once again feeling guilt for the upset and stress I had caused the local mother's union in Assynt. I did reflect that if she had stayed put, I would have probably passed her without seeing her or her chicks but that seems to be victim blaming and she was doing what she needed to protect her young.
The rocky terrain occasionally gave way to wind blasted grass with lots of wild flowers including all the usual ones for this time of year but also, as I approached the end of the ridge, lots of mountain avens.
At some point I came across an interesting feaure that ran right across the mountain and gave a nice safe (very short) scramble up and down. It almost looked like a man-made ditch with a flat grassy base and straight rocky sides,

The contrasting ground of this mountain, grass, stones, rock by Seal54, on Flickr

The grassy channel looking to the North Sea drainage by Seal54, on Flickr

Looking to Canisp and Culs Beag and Mor along the grassy channel to the North Sea Drainage by Seal54, on Flickr

Canisp ( Left), LochAssynt with Quinag on its right by Seal54, on Flickr

Conival and Ben More Assynt getting closer by Seal54, on Flickr

View back along the rocky mass of Breabag by Seal54, on Flickr

Mountain Avens by Seal54, on Flickr


Some of the descents from the rocky outcrops required care and I was conscious that I was not as flexible as I could be so these took time, watching all the time that I didn’t unduly aggravate my hip. The fun of the up and down on dry rock was beginning to pall when eventually I reached Breabag Tarsainn and headed down to Bealach Trallgill.

Looking back up one of the rocky down climbs by Seal54, on Flickr

The SE Ridge of conival from Breabag Tarsainn by Seal54, on Flickr


Ahead the SE ridge of Conival looked seriously jaggy and any doubts I harboured about not tackling this were well and truly banished. I reached the col and made my tea by some huge boulders of sandstone breccia before heading down the narrow path. I didn’t think it would take me long to reach the main path up Conival despite the length of time I had taken so far. I stopped to have an evening meal then jauntily set off down the path only to get to a point where the drop off to my left was a steep, grassy slope of the sort I no longer feel comfortable with (cue flashbacks to my fall). I could see a path below so turned back and joined that. I suspect if I had stuck with the first path I would have reached a better gradient. The lower path had its moments to a seriously compromised mind like mine so I made a real meal of getting down.

Looking to the North Sea side of the Watershed Bealach Tragill by Seal54, on Flickr

The way up to SE ridge of Conival by Seal54, on Flickr

Looking back up to Breabag Tarsainn from the bealach by Seal54, on Flickr

Huge boulders of Breccia in Beallach Trallgil by Seal54, on Flickr


Worse was to come. My phone was not taking a charge. I switched it on and off a few times (something that usually works) but even worse the power pack was only flashing one light. It should have been flashing 3 or 4. I racked my brains and realised that I hadn’t charged it. I had no idea how much was left in the power pack. My big problem was needing the phone to check on those thunderstorms forecast for the weekend and also for phoning and booking a seat on the bus. Less importantly it was also my clock and camera.
I checked bus times from Inchnadamph. Tomorrow (Friday) there was a midday bus (half school day) and this connected with the Ullapool bus. Reluctantly I decided that I would have to again abandon the Watershed. If I was superstitious I might make something of it but no, it’s all about my failure to prepare properly for my walk.

View from last night camp by Seal54, on Flickr

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09/06/2023

My campsite wasn’t as great as the one on Breabag but still plenty good enough and midge free. The only drawback was it was amongst leggy heather and vegetation and with everything being so dry, the next morning I put off lighting my gas burner until I reached a stony area. It was a pleasant walk down to Inchnadamph with plenty of small heath butterflies and a regular number of walkers and fishermen heading for their respective destinations. After reaching a stony area I dumped my excess water after making my coffee and having breakfast. I thought I could have a refreshing drink in the Inchnadamph hotel only to discover that it is no longer not open to non-residents.
A botanist couple I chatted to about a yellow flower that was unusual to me (seen on Durness limestone) offered me a lift to Ullapool in their smart new campervan. Somehow I almost missed my connection to Inverness (still not having laid my hands on a drink) but was rescued by Rapsons who ran me up (with a busload of children) to the High school were the coach was held for me. The driver was pleasantly grumpy. “You’ve held me up and now you are making me go all the way into Inverness. ah well”
I idly wondered if the walker met on the bus out would be at the school house stop and sure enough there he was. Turns out the “blog” he had read was mine from WH. We exchanged tales of our 2 days out in great conditions, lack of water being the main problem. The bus driver now had 2 people travelling all the way to Inverness but before we got there we were held up by an accident at Braemore junction and the road was closed. Fortunately, it wasn’t serious and I don’t think there were any life threatening injuries. My delays to the service therefore had no effect.
The trip held more surprises. It turned out that back in the 1980s Ron (the other walker) when at Stirling University was a student of a very good friend of mine (from my days at Stirling in the 1970s). What is more before the end of the bus journey, I had made contact with my friend who not only remembered Ron but asked that I pass on his details so Ron could contact him. 6 degrees of separation and all that and every cloud has a silver lining.

I am not a lot further along the Watershed but my hip held up with only brief episodes of pain and I have regained a belief that it is possible for me to finish. There is the small matter of my mind reducing me to jelly on steep slopes. I need practise but I am also not going to obsess about taking less steep routes. One other side effect of the bump to my head is that I seem to have lost my musical accompaniment to my walking which is a bit of a shame for me but not to anyone else who may caome across me as I am bumbling along.
Friends have given up asking how long it is going to take me now , if the subject comes up, the reaction is more "Have you not finished that yet" but I am not ready to throw in the towel.

[Sgurr]

You are SO persistent. Hope the hip continues to improve.I sympathise either feeling wobbly, not that I have your excuse of MRT rescue, but even a pavement smash took away my confidence for a while

[rohan]

You are SO persistent. Hope the hip continues to improve.I sympathise either feeling wobbly, not that I have your excuse of MRT rescue, but even a pavement smash took away my confidence for a while

I wish I was more persistent ( or stubborn), I probably would have been finished by now. Currently the humid, thundery weather is stopping me returning, but I know I wouldn't enjoy it . My main reason for doing it is coming out with the better days outnumbering the dreadful ones by a big margin and I have had some of the best weather that Scotland can give which has spoilt me.

[litljortindan]

Not easy to get walking again after injury. Surely the rest will be (relatively) plain sailing.