Ben Alligin and snorkeling around Longa Island

[Mountainlove]

Magnificent, majestic and one of the most impressive Munros with gorgeous views, probably describes Ben Alligin pretty well.

It was the second day of our holiday and unknown to us at the time, the last cloudy day for the next + 3 weeks...oh what a sunny June was laying ahead. We had set up camp in Torridon and left before we had a chance to get breakfast (midges in biblical proportions had arrived over night and we did not fancy being breakfast)

When we arrived at the car park (well before 9am) we were pretty shocked to find it ram packed. Instead of squeezing the van into a tight corner, we drove 500 meters further along the road and found a space big enough for 3 vans- success! With a full day ahead, there was no rush and first things first, breakfast was on the menu. The other two spaces next to us soon filled up and at some point around 10ish we set off.

The path looking back on the way up

The start of the track was as delightful as I remembered it and we made good progress. With white cotton grass swaying in the wind, the mountains of Torridon started raising ahead of us. It's simply a sight which I will never tire from seeing.

Cotton grass

With the 'easy' part behind us, the steep drag up to the first summit was laying ahead.
It's utterly impressive to see the steep cliffs of Alligin raising above you, but it's also pretty daunting from the bottom.

The steep part of the path ahead

Slowly but steady we walked up the track, together with a number of other walkers ahead and behind. It's was a slog and we were happy when we finally reached the small cairn close to the summit. From the cairn it was a short push and we finally reached the summit of Tom na Gruagaich and wow wow wow. The view ahead is simply breathtaking and total unexpected. It was great to see the reactions from other walkers, as everyone was equally in awe.

Stunning views from the first summit

Myself

With views like that to enjoy, we stayed quite some time, just to take it all in before continuing along the ridge.
What followed was an easy scramble down a rocky path, with lots of bypasses, so that everyone was able to find their preferred way down. With the steepest part behind us, the path continued gently downhill with stunning views towards all sites. Sgurr Mor was right ahead and the track climbed up the next slope.

The walk towards Sgurr Mor

The cleft

With the impressive cleft ahead , we continued until the huge gap opened up in front of us. It's far more impressive than any photo could capture and it must have been amazing to see the part of the mountain which once stuck in it's place, crash down below. The summit of Sgurr Mor was now pretty close and leaving the cleft behind us, we continued along to the summit with stunning views back towards Tom na Gruagaich to be savored.

Views back

The views from the second summit are equally stunning and the full glory of the other Torridon mountains can be appreciated from here. The horns of Alligin which terrified a number of walkers we met that day, could also be spotted in it's full glory straight ahead.

Simply stunning

Posing

On the way down to the horns

It's a long way down from here

The path down to the horns was steep, but the views are amazing. We continued down the track until the first of the horns was rising steeply ahead of us. Kevin wasn't keen on the scramble and wanted the bypass.
Suited me fine, as I have climbed over the horns many years ago and was keen to see what the bypass was like.
In the dry conditions we had the bypass was very easy to follow. Yes the drop off to the side was pretty steep and maybe people who are afraid of heights would struggle, but in generally a good option when you don't fancy the scramble over the horns.

The bypass

Looking down from the bypass

With the bypass soon behind us, we had thought that the worse was actually over. Lol it wasn't as I totally had forgotten how steep the actual down scramble was. I say scramble as some parts were nearly vertical and the going was pretty slow. After what felt like ages we finally reached flattish ground again and were able to stop and marvel at this amazing mountain in all it's glory while walking back to the van.

Ben Alligin looking back

It was hard to leave Torridon and the mountains behind, but with the next adventure looming ahead, I looked forward what the next few days would bring.

Longa Island

With the inflatable kayak full of snorkel equipment we paddled across the relatively short distance between Big Sands and Longa Island. Arriving on the other side we were greeted by a few highland cows which eyed up curiously, but decided to bolt up the hill as soon as we stepped on land.

Arrival on Longa Island

An old slip broken way was the first indication that the island was once inhabited. Kevin decided to stay with the 'boat' (as I like to call my inflatable) while I was keen to explore the island and climb up to it's highest peak. I set off and had to admit that wearing my wetsuit pants, water shoes and an old t-shirt wasn’t probably the best gear to walk in, but it was only a small price to pay.

A faint path , which seemed well used by the cows, lead up hill across some of the old ruins. It’s remarkable to think, that approximately 30 people used to life on the island back in the days. Even though it was all hopelessly overgrown, it’s still a fascinating place to visit.

The old ruins

View across towards Big Sand

Creagan Mhurchaidh ahead

I continued uphill along bracken and heather and saw part of an old stone wall and some further ruins. Straight ahead Creagan Mhurchaidh (Cliffs of Murdoch) was my first hill of the day. It's a wonderful view point towards the mountains of Skye, Torridon and Gairloch in the far distance. My view went inland and across a flattish area covered in thick heather I spotted a cairn which marks the highest point of the island - Druim an Eilein (The Ridge of the Island). Only 70 meters in height it was an easy place to reach, which was just as well considering I was already sweating buckets in my neoprene pants.

Creagan Mhurchaidh summit

The summit cairn

I returned the same way I came, now more than keen to find a place to snorkel. We continued our paddle along the southern side of the island. Due to the northern wind that day, the area was protected and the sea nearly mirror like. Below us hundreds of jellyfish, mainly moon and small lion’s mane jelly's could be spotted all around us. At Uisge Ruadt we spotted a small sea cave and continued until we reached Sron na Caillich (the nose or lost nose?). A number of tiny bay areas allowed us to lift the kayak out of the water and finally start our snorkel.

The seabed was a mix of small sandy patches, steep drop offs, kelp and rocks. In some areas the seabed dropped quickly to 10 meters, but the visibility was excellent and juvenile fish, star fish, sea urchins, jellyfish, anemones, dead man’s fingers and kelp were plentiful. In simple words...I was in heaven!

A red lion's jellyfish

Dead man's finger

Below the surface

Duck diving below I spotted light-bulb anemones, sponges, crabs and an amazing variety of life. It was simply a stunning area.

The beautiful barrel jellyfish

While I explored a huge overhang covered in kelp, I noticed two heads with big eyes peaking out of kelp - seals.
I was exited to see them and not wanting to spook them away, I lay flat on the surface of the water and waited. Not long after, 2 seals swam out of the kelp to see what the strange thing above them was up to.

I watched them for a while and continued my snorkel along the coastline. A steep cliff face was covered in
hundred of anemones. I duck dived down to take some photos and to get a better look. Minding my own business I suddenly noticed a shadow behind me. Turning around I saw another seal

Facing the seal, seemed to spook it. So instead I kept on duck diving down and continued taking photos (while secretly watching it) . The seal must have found my activity rather odd, as it continued to stay close by. Once I had enough photos taken, I did some duck dives, while rotating my body in the water (it's great to be silly when the only
one watching you is a seal)

Sea urchins

The seal

Returning to the surface, I looked down and saw the seal swimming in a half circle coming towards me, before returning to a save distance. I continued making pirouettes in the water and retraced, while waiting to see what the seal would be doing. It was a great game and at some point the seal settled on a sandy patch a good 7 meters below we and looked up towards me, watching me.
We swam together what felt like ages and the seal came closer and closer, probably reassured that I was harmless. It was a magical experience and one of the many things which I love about snorkeling.

I was getting rather cold and swam to the rock where Kevin had waited for me. Keen to get warm we got back to the kayak and paddled towards the protected bay area at Eag Mhor.

Kayaking along the coast

Getting out of the kayak we stumbling across the slippy rocks until we reached a grassy area where we had a rest.
Wanting to explore more we walked the short distance across the heather towards Camas na Rainich, the other bay on the island.

The two bays on Longa

Amazing views from a small view point I climbed

Our rumbling tummies indicated that it was nearly dinner time and knowing that we had to paddle a good 3.5 kilometer back, we set off again and arrived rather knackered back at the tent.

That evening I sat on the dunes, looking over to Longa Island. The warm evening light cast the island into a magical light and I could not wait to get back.

Longa Island

[Senja]

Good to hear that there are cattle on this one. Island vegetation is often horrific. Thanks for the underwater shots, enjoyed those.

[Mountainlove]

Good to hear that there are cattle on this one. Island vegetation is often horrific. Thanks for the underwater shots, enjoyed those.

It was lovely seeing the cattle, based on some online research, sheep are also sometimes left on the island to graze

[litljortindan]

Never tire of seeing Ben Alligin reports. Pretty special to have those seal encounters too imo.

[dogplodder]

Fabulous underwater shots and always love seeing Ben Alligin. It was climbing it that coaxed me into writing my first WH report and that seemed to start something...

[Mountainlove]

Never tire of seeing Ben Alligin reports. Pretty special to have those seal encounters too imo.

Totally agree and I love seeing photos of the mountain in all seasons. And yes felt really privileged having that seal encounter

Fabulous underwater shots and always love seeing Ben Alligin. It was climbing it that coaxed me into writing my first WH report and that seemed to start something...

Many thanks Never realized that Ben Alligin was your first report and yes, it started quite something 😂