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I've been reading Graame Thomson's excellent new book about the early years of Simple Minds - the most dynamic, exciting band in Scotland from 1979-81 and reflected that this week was a disturbance from my normal routine - albeit a pleasant one...
Allison was off on a family holiday to The Borders so I was at liberty to do whatever hills I wanted, for as many days as I wanted. Given my current obsession with a third round of Grahams it was obviously going to involve those: there was little point in doing Corbetts as all but one of the Corbetts I need for that round three are required by Allison as well, so it would be inefficient to do them. Even if Foinaven and Cranstackie were calling loudly to me.
Efficiency, I decided, would be the watchword of this trip. The weather looked to be a bit middling - quite a lot of rain forecast, high winds and the possibility of thunderstorms but nothing too severe, at least for hills of Graham height. It would put a kybosh on any plans for high camps though. I had a look at the map - I wanted to finish off the three outstanding hills from my Second Round so that I could concentrate exclusively on the Third. That would mean Strathcarron/Torridon areas. Fine - lots to do around there. I would start in Strathconnon and move gradually west, maybe heading north of Ullapool. I might - if the weather gods were merciful, head up to Laxford Bridge at the end of the week or so...could I resist Foinaven if I went up that way? We'd see...
My planning had been somewhat interrupted by the emergence of some lurgy on the Sunday night I'd come home from our last trip...sore throat, cough, pyrexia. I felt weakened and even resorted to a mid-day nap on Monday or Tuesday (it clearly has impacted on what's left of my memory too
). Allison had been under the weather that lsat weekend but had rallied when pushed to do hills - she'd relapsed after returning home and was sent home from work, having to spend the next few days in bed - excellent prelude to her holiday week, not. My aged parent was urging me to take time to recover - however I decided that the best medicine for an illness like this was hills, lots of them. The trip was still on.
I had improved sufficiently by Thursday to head off at lunchtime, still a bit of stuffy nose and a sore throat but functioning otherwise. I arrived in Strathconnon at 4pm and decided there was time for a hill - an easy one to start with: Carn na Coinnich was almost all track. That was another rule for the week - no nice looping circuits, no Simm diversions - this was going to be hardcore Graham bagging. We'd been up Carn na Coinnich just recently, so I was acquainted with the route.
1. Carn na Coinnich 12k 600m asc 2 hours 30
I parked at the mill building and walked along the estate track, past the various well maintained estate buildings/holiday lets and happy dogs in their kennel. Onto the hill track - it was very warm if not sunny - I'd drunk my water quickly and topped up from a stream halfway up. There were clouds around, rain threatened for later but for now all was well and I was enjoying a rapid tramp up the hill. I reached the high point of the path, where there's a small cairn, and set off across the boggy ground to reach the trig. The views weren't great because of cloud, but it was nice to be out and about again. I took the same route back to the car.
C96802D7-B1C3-4FC0-AF32-CCBF54AB4CE3_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
11CCF2E7-4E45-49B4-BCEF-07946A400652_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
From here I drove a few miles along the glen to a camp spot we've used before. I was pleasantly tired after the long drive and brisk walk - the glen was very quiet overnight, I didn't hear one car pass by. However sleep was elusive due to my ongoing stuffy nose and throat pains. . I was up at 6 the following morning with a plan to do the other two Grahams along the road then head off to Beinn na Feusaige.
2 & 3. Beinn Mheadhoin and Meall na Faochaig 14k 1050m asc, 4 hours 20
Both previous occasions I'd been up Mheadhoin, it had been from the west, whilst we were doing the Corbetts An Sithean and Bac an eich. On one of hose occasions we'd descended by the route I intended to take up today, but I had little recollection of that. I parked at the beginning of the track to Inverchoran Farm and set off. No-one about, the air still. I noted the derelict cottage to the east of the main estate is being nicely refurbished, nearly complete by the look of it. Good to see. A cross the stream on the stepping stones then onto the left branch of the track. There's a clear cairn marker where the stalkers path leaves the main track - this looks a bit ropey initially but quickly turns into a good path that winds its way almost to the summit, with only a couple of sketchy sections - but there are more cairn markers to keep you right. The sky, which had threatened a downpour not long after I set off gradually seemed to be clearing, although stubborn clouds sat on the tops of the nearby mountains. Some patches of blue were opening up, the gloominess dispelled. I returned to my starting point by the same route, walked past the car and continued on the road for a short while til I came to the gate for the track up Faochaig.
Again we'd been here only a matter of weeks ago, so I knew what was coming. The rough farm track propels you up to around 300m after which you have to make your own way up the grassy/heathery shoulder of the hill. Ewes and their lambs glared at me for disturbing their grazing. I was at the summit for ten thirty and jauntily descended to the car - not even lunchtime yet! I'd get the next two hills finished off today - I had thought I'd need to camp somewhere along the route but now could go quick and light without the encumbrance of an overnight pack.
Inchoran
3D9C9DF7-0AE6-4B1D-A5A5-BFEEB357016C_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
828BE360-CE48-4A8B-9730-EC9B19845219_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Mheadhoin summit
2CB59F46-3F80-4756-9FB0-B0C3722133C9_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Faochaig
4D435661-BCAF-422E-A62E-E9D1E3F950B6_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
BAC6D52E-4E3E-433C-9655-735BEAA88294_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
4 & 5. Beinn na Feusaige & Carn Breac 15k 750m asc, 4 hours
I drove the long and windy road out of Strathconnon, meeting almost nothing on the way and headed round past Achnasheen to the start of the track for these two hills, where there's room to park out of the way of the gate. Again, we'd been here very recently. I sat and had my lunch in the car then prepared for the off. I decided to climb Feusaige first, mainly because on previous occasions we'd done the route clockwise. I had planned to climb up by the Allt Fhearchair (the descent route used I our Easter visit) but that would mean some extra walking along the track - why not just go straight up at the end of the tree line? This was ferociously steep for maybe 150m - I was on all fours, pulling myself up by heather roots, it was brutal but quick, not aided by the swarms of cleggs that appeared out of nowhere and tried to get inside my mouth/nose/ears. Soon I was on easier ground and made my way towards the summit. On both previous occasions I'd forgotten that the highest point is actually the first cairn you come to, not the 625m spot height which is a half km further east. Today I didn't forget this useful fact and was able to start down towards Lochan Meallan Mhic Iamhair that bit sooner.
79EC48E7-B6BB-481F-B193-AC58435754DC_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
4DEB43FE-92F1-4376-A960-466BEA960C22_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
5C384E0F-3263-466C-8541-04BFC2C75097_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
View from Feusaige
5ACFA1FC-D275-4BC0-85FE-81651690D956_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
There's one definite advantage to doing the route anticlockwise if there are views - and that is the splendid view towards Torridon that you can enjoy whilst walking towards Carn Breac. That helped to leaven the trudge over boggy ground towards/round the Lochan. I opted to go round the north of Meallan Mhic Iamhair rather than over the top and began the long walk up the back of Carn Breac. I just kept salivating over the views, which we'd been deprived of on our last visit. Eventually I reached the castellated trig enclosure, had a welcome snack and pondered whether to descend via the gentle curving shoulder to the south east or to use the "track" that's marked down into Coire Crubaidh. I chose the latter, although the path is pretty much invisible until you are well down into the coire. It was approaching 6pm as I was walking back to the car and thoughts turned to where I was going to pitch tonight. Tomorrow would be Creag Dubh Mor at Strathcarron and I wasn't sure where I could pitch near there. I did notice a useful looking spot about 1km from the end of the track as I walked past, so returned to the car, loaded up my overnight kit and walked back to enjoy another quiet night, with the spashings of teh nearby river to lull me to sleep. Surely after a long day I'd sleep tonight? Once again my stuffy nose precluded any serious slumber, despite frequent use of an Olbas Oil stick.
DA263DAF-40D5-4BA2-B418-0A8354D5CC3B_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Carn Breac
1D753D70-5686-4710-AC81-3D9AF157F42F_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
B1BBAE57-9DA2-474D-B8F1-BD604438B1B1_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
095D1B53-770D-4B20-AFEF-EF354874C43C_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Saturday was a fine morning and despite my tiredness and lack of sleepy refreshment I got up early and walked back to the car. One thing about camping solo is that it takes about half the time to pack ups than it does when Allison is there with me. Just saying...I drove to Achintee for my next hill. I struggled to find a place to park and ended up driving back to the start of the turn off into Achintee and parking by the cattle grid. Actually there is parking for the trails if you take the unpaved track signed to Park Cottage and turn right. I'll know for next time (although I doubt there will be a next time for this particular hill).
6 & 7. Creag Dhubh Mhor 22km 1285m asc 8 hours
Creag Dubh Mor was the first of the three Grahams I still needed for Round Two. Allison had done it twice, having holidayed nearby. I decided I would use the quickest route I could find (thanks Malky) and set off to find the track running along the River Taodail. There is a signpost pointing towards teh Ben Dronaig route and also north to the one I wanted. The initial part of the path is seriously overgrown, then involved clambering over a stile and fording a stream but only after pushing through a gorse enclosure. Then you are on better path, which briefly joins hydro track. Don't stay on the hydro track too long or you come to a small dam and a dead end - there is a cairn marker shortly after you cross a bridge which rejoins the stalkers path. To the north are the south Torridon mountains, resplendent in the morning sunshine. It was hot, the sky cloudless. Continue along, wetly in my case, til you pass the terraced slopes of the hill and turn away from the path towards an obvious grassy cleft. You can walk up this, but I took a stopper and more direct route up to the summit. I looked over at Mail Chean Dearg and An Ruadh Stac, two of the three in my planned completion - Beinn na h-Eaglaise hidden behind those two.
AA9111B4-6A4E-4E26-A8A0-98B27FA64296_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
5EBD0CD6-6FC0-4A3B-A1D3-A99454CE3AE2_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
C7569079-0AB5-4CD2-A886-40F6ACCD3164_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
371AF2CD-86EE-4C1F-8316-DD4D08A979C3_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
04B3C9FC-1B44-4DFD-B839-0F652D0ACA8A_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
I opted to descend the NW, rejoicing ht path I'd come in on rather than heading over Carn Geuradainn. Just pathless heathery tussocks. I sat on the track to get my breath back - I was sweltering in the heat now. As I walked the remaining kilometres to the start, I decided I would do it all again - after all, if this trip was about efficient bagging then it was definitely efficient to just do my third round ascent today rather than have to come back. I couldn't face going the same route however - there's still a modicum of sanity left, so I returned to the start point and took the track marked for Ben Dronaig bothy.
This starts as good track, gaining height more quickly than the path along the Taodail river. It was midday and I stopped for lunch, feeling exhausted. Yesterday's mileage and today's heat taking their toll. Every footstep had been slower and heavier. Only slightly revived by lunch I continued on. I decided that I wasn't going to have the extra ascent involved in climbing over Carn Geuradainn - instead I planned to bypass it on the north side. This was actually quite easy and unlike many of my "shortcuts" which can turn out to be long-cuts. Back at the summit cairn I looked at the same views - the only difference was that some clouds were coming in from the west. I elected to take the same return route that I'd used on the earlier climb and was back at the car, tired but quite pleased, at around 4pm
F9B7E98D-818E-4776-8140-3E9E46CEF7DD_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
4F40FDE3-3A89-4BA0-B468-42CDA393FE11_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
B4ACA841-B23E-411C-85DF-2315DECD72E7_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
B4E58128-26A6-4FF9-A097-5BD9FD8A90F0_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
The next target was Sgurr a'Gharaidh, which I intended to do from the west. I drove round to Kishorn, through a busy Lochcarron, and pitched the tent beside the bridge. Had I been feeling fitter, I might have gone off and done Gharaidh that evening, but I was very tired and heavy rain was forecast to come in about 8pm. So I sat by the tent having my Huel and watching the motorbikes head off towards the Bealach na Ba. The rain did indeed come on heavily overnight.
A9C08229-73C5-42CC-B49F-296D55B8B2E2_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
8. Beinn a'Chlachain 12k 620m asc. 4 hours
Lying in the tent overnight I had decided that it made sense to head out to Applecross and climb Beinn a'Chlachain - after all it was nearby and fell under the banner of "efficiency". My only slight misgiving was an aversion to driving the Bealach na Ba - or rather of encountering large vehicles coming in the opposite direction when driving the Bealach na Ba. I reckoned that if I set off early that shouldn't be a problem. Up before 6, stowed away the wet tent (which I probably could just have left pitched) and off I went. The rain had stopped, more or less, but the cloud was lying low. I met only one other vehicle the whole way into Applecross, although I did need to put on fog lights at the highest part of the route. Past the campsite, where we'd stayed a couple times and along to the parking area beside the war memorial.
15A78B40-2E29-45C9-A9C6-F797F35153A7_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
I'd given a cursory glance to the route, knowing it was simply a matter of labouring up the lochan infested whaleback of the hill to reach the summit. As long as you started off to the north of the Allt na Guailne - if you head up the hillside before this it's too steep and bracken-bothered. Stupidly I walked along the road, rather than on the track which starts at the car park, and it was only after I'd passed the aforementioned stream that I noticed my error. It looked inadvisable to try to climb up the hillside to regain the track - so I walked back to the car park and took the track I should have taken in the first place. Eedjit. Onto the hillside, over tussocks, ferns, marshy bits, heading vaguely tp your right as you gain height, using the lochans for navigation. I can't recall another hill that has so many lochans on its back. Behind me the Cuillin peaks were starting to emerge from low cloud like gigantic shark fins. The forecast was for it to brighten as the morning went on - I was hoping so as this hill is a grand viewpoint.
C39A81B8-9A32-4E41-AA6A-8B7FE1BADA05_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
F6D89AE2-E051-4809-8D8A-39B8BEE3259C_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
2AFA7F7C-448E-4FE5-80D1-2FCDDD02A187_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
1C69DE5F-CA17-42D0-A78B-1F746B17C889_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
08319E86-F470-4B36-B3AE-B3D8451CA185_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
I reached the summit at 9.45 and took a few minuted to enjoy the views, constrained as they were by the persisting clouds. I descended by my up route, having considered and discarded the thought of a steeper, quicker descent to Srath Maolchaluim which I think we did first time round. I was in no particular hurry today. I sat on the stone bench at the war memorial having lunch and contemplating the names of the young men fallen in the Wars.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Time to get going - of course this meant going back over the Bealach na Ba at a busy time of day, unless I wanted to take the long way round...no, that wouldn't be efficient
As it happened, the traffic wasn't too bad and I didn't meet any behemoth-sized motor homes labouring up the road. I headed along the road to Couldoran Farm for Sgurr a'Gharaidh
9. Sgurr a'Gharaidh. 13k 780m asc. 5 hours (some cricket involved)
There's room for one car at the opening of the track to the farm with the sheep pens. I walked through the various gates of the pens, aiming for the rough farm track that goes basically all the way to the top. Or nearly. Cows with metal bells in a Swiss style were lowing excitedly or aggressively as I walked by, paying them no attention. After east night's rain the track was wetter than it had been when we were here last, but wasn't too bad. I checked the cricket score when I had signal - the Third Test was beautifully poised with England looking unlikely to triumph but still I with a shout. It was a gorgeous day now, blue skies and freshly washed looking white puffy clouds. I paused t the top and decided to listen to the last half dozen overs of the match. I never listen to anything when I'm in the hills but stuff it, why not! England managed a good victory keeping the series alive - I don't care who wins the Ashes, but I'd like it to go down to the last match of the series.
B62A088E-EB6B-41EA-82E3-A09009B414EA_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
800C1E06-9236-4076-A3B0-227CE1B3AD8C_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
85A32ECF-1D43-450F-B86B-AC3A8A1DF414_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
I stretched out my stiffening limbs and set off back down the hill again. What next? I'd planned to do Beinn Damh and Beinn na h_Eaglaise tomorrow - should I head along to Torridon now? If so where would I camp? I suspected the village campsite would be crammed and didn't fancy camping in the woods as the wind was noticeable by its absence - midge hell. So I elected just to go back to where I'd camped the night before and have an early start the following morning.
06A981C2-1658-4726-A442-9E0FF33A1BA6_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
5CF003BF-1BBA-42AB-B9B6-3CEBEE45CE7B_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
As I parked and started to get my tent out the car a cyclist returned to his car parked near mine. I asked if he'd been up the Bealach na Ba. He had, and had found it easy compared with the cycle around the Applecross peninsula. We spoke for a while about hills and stuff - he'd done the CMD arête the previous day in high winds. I headed across to my spot, once more had a gentle evening routine of Huel then a book before bed. Some un-forecast overnight rain.
10 & 11. Beinn Damh & Beinn na h-Eaglaise 17km 1400m asc, 8 hours
I drove round to Torridon, parked at the Hotel and set off up Beinn Damh the usual way. The forecast had warned of thunderstorms around noon, so although I thought I'd not be high up at that time I decided to leave my poles behind in the car. I'd watched the cloud come in over the summit of Beinn Damh when I was packing away my tent and didn't have much hopes for views today. I was surprised to see two parties of two come down the hill as I was going up - I'd begun my ascent at 7am so they must have set off really early. The cloud continued to sit on the summit as I climbed and enveloped me as I reached the boulder field. I remembered one time we were up here and had to abandon the ascent in the boulder field due to a combination of high winds and the rocks being completely glazed with ice - not a good combination
I was grateful for the cairn marker through the boulders then was surprised when the clag began to lift, revealing the slightly intimidating summit ridge of Spidean Coire an Laoigh. I'd forgotten about this bit.
122B75C0-8838-40CF-AC27-BAABCD3F13BD_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
DB31C869-C724-45F0-BA4D-BFDB4B6F1D2E_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
An enjoyable walk over the boulders to the top and some unexpected but very welcome views over to the Torridon giants - the clouds whipping over then away again revealing the mountains with sleight of hand. I looked across at Beinn na h-Eaglaise, choosing a route up. I did think about dropping down into Toll nam Biast which would get me to Eaglaise more quickly. I thought I might be able to manage a line down the north side, but as I had no poles with me, it would have been foolish to try. So I returned along the spine of the mountain, dropping into Toll Ban and contouring round to reach the floor of Coire Roill. Some good views of the black cleft of Alligin from here. I picked a line up the sandstone terraced side of Eaglaise following the line of a stream from the obvious lochan below the summit. Plenty of deer paths to choose from to wind through the craggy bits. I was able to have a good look over at Toll nam Biast and was glad I hadn't attempted to drop down there. "Drop" being the operative word.
65B024B4-CC1B-4ADD-B844-99322C508992_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
79F31ADC-2247-4FCC-8C6B-3CEDF88A2E1E_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
C0240FB7-66C8-40E2-BE5E-2E7A6BDE882F_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
A88CEFD3-117D-415E-9F7B-3E6573EDB06D_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Eaglaise
EEC3E645-15E0-4119-A228-A05F34A13520_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Toll nam Biast
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Al, on Flickr
Probably a bit steep
5E36339D-8A78-4D93-AF87-FDAEDF4AFDD6_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
I slowly gained the summit of Eaglaise, noting a large block of sandstone that appeared to have been recently rent by lightning. The threat had disappeared from the forecast, but I was still a little nervous of being caught out up high. I hunted around for the summit cairn, noting that three possible cairns had - quite recently - been demolished, with the stones flung down the hillside. That'll be bloody Alan Dawson doing spot heights - I've seen him in action... I decided, since this was to be the ultimate completion of my proposed triple, that I wanted a proper cairn to celebrate at, so spent a few minutes building one up again on the proper summit. Then a strange alarm sound I'd never heard before came from my phone. WTF??? I had downloaded a lightning app the night before, and my first thought was that there was lightning on the way. I rapidly made a decent line, before working out that the alarm had been some sort of signal from my watch to my phone, which had nothing to do with lightning
87C32214-9CF8-4C7E-B5D0-004A42118529_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
64797CDC-7E66-4250-89F9-14B84753227A_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Lightning strike
A420C45B-C231-4059-A874-4FC0162B8867_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
1381A446-5419-4AC6-B66F-574C56509AA0_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
E3479915-90F9-4A50-8238-9D737F4BC263_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
B20C74ED-753E-4C60-806C-ADBEBC1CB5C8_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
It did get me rather more hastily off the hill than I had planned. There's a good path running across Coire Roill which passes by some Caledonian pines as it nears the Allt then you have to cross the river to regain the path to the Torridon Hotel. Really could do with a bridge or better stepping stones there. Back at the car I contemplated what to do. It was only about 3pm. I wanted to do the one long walk I had planned tomorrow, which meant I could do a walk in towards Beinn na Ramh tonight. But that also meant I'd have time to squeeze in the short but steep An Ruadh-mheallan.
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Al, on Flickr
D5E96480-C9BB-4120-A1CE-39B4D5286EE6_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
12. An Ruadh-mheallan 8k 520m asc. 2 hours 45
I really didn't feel like doing another hill today but it would be efficient to get this one done. So I drove round towards Diabeg, passing an empty village campsite (shock!!) and parked up at the Bealach na Gaoithe. At least I was starting at over 200m elevation rather than the close-to-sea level starts I'd been having recently. We'd been on this hill at Easter, although that was an approach from the north we came down by the route I'd take up today. Not one of my favourite, I have to admit - the early section is up and down over outcrops and round lochans without a clear sight of where you are headed. Then it's a question of making for the southern flank, to the east of the crags. Just a slog, basically. I pushed my tired limbs to one more effort, kept my head down and just got up to the summit - an hour and a half. Sat having some fruit and nuts and panting a little before descending by "the same" route as I used up. Actually it wasn't the same route, I went off beam, first too much west then too Far East and added at least a km onto the route. Irritation! But finally I reached the car and drove along deserted roads through Torridon village. I did briefly think about stopping at the campsite and spending the night there - one camper van was the only resident - but the night was to be wet and still - midge hell... So I reverted to my original plan of heading to Incheril and walking in to Leckie which I hoped would still be open and would give me dry and midge free conditions.
An Ruadh-mheallan
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
13, 14 & 15. Beinn nan Ramh, Groban & Beinn Bheag 36km. 1640m asc quite a few hours
I'd got the idea of tagging on Groban and Beinn Bheag to Beinn nan Ramh when we were on Ramh last year and I saw how close the other hills were to the western end of Ramh. It's a long walk in to Ramh so why not get your money's worth? I'd originally planned to add in Beinn a'Mhuinidh too but this became a sacrificial victim. We'd stayed in the estate bothy at Leckie that time and despite the holes in the floorboards, it had sufficed as good accommodation. There were no cars at Incheril car park when I arrived at about 7.30pm - in July? Really? Rain looked like it was coming my way soon. I'd already stopped at Torridon village to pack my overnight rucksack by the shore, where there was a little bit of breeze (see, not always so daft am I) so I was ready to go in the leafy overhung car park with its midge denizens. It was 7km, but at least it was on proper track.
I was a little unused to having the big pack on but walked tall and broadened my shoulders and soon the distance was passing quickly. Met not a soul. Passed the start of Kinlochewe Heights and the Hydro buildings then got a sight of Leckie off in the distance. No bikes parked outside, hopefully it would be vacant... I got closer and was getting my hopes up - I desperately wanted my dinner as it was after 9pm by this point. Got to the door and found...the place was boarded up. No admittance. And the rain had started. Nothing for it but to get the tent up - there was, at least, a flat bit of grass outside the building. Managed to keep the worst of the midges at bay as I cooked my meal then bundled everything into the tent and feasted. Well, feasted like a church mouse actually, ut you know what I mean.
Leckie
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Al, on Flickr
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Slept alright overnight despite my disappointment at no roof over my head and decided I wouldn't get up so early this morning, partly because it was still raining. It did go off however and I packed up my pack and started off up the track towards Beinn nan Ramh. The grass was soaking wet and my strides brought up clouds of silver-white moths, fluttering around like confused emissaries. It's a reasonable stalkers path, for as long as it lasts, which is basically where Beinn nan Ramh starts climbing. There are peat hags and some waterways to navigate then a grassy climb to the back of the mountain where the going gets easier. I left my pack at an old fence post and went the remaining 300m to the top unencumbered. Turning around I could see Groban and Beinn Bheag clearly off to my right, with Meallan Chuiach, an outlier from A'Chailleach, being the nearest of the peaks. I retrieved my pack and continued down to the bealach with An Carnan. From there I could se the sweet river valley to the south of Groban that I wanted to camp in.
Beinn nan Ramh
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Al, on Flickr
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I headed over the top of An Carnan, riven with peat hags as it was, and turned down towards the valley and the Abhainn a' Chadha Bhuidhe. I noticed some nice looking spots to camp - my plan was to pitch the tent and leave my stuff so I wouldn't have to lug it over these two hills then return to camp there, or move further on depending on how I felt. I set up tent by the river on some nice dry ground and had my lunch.
Groban
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Al, on Flickr
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I would proceed directly up the back of Groban then down and up to Beinn Bheag using the "usual" route, coming down the rear of Bheag and returning to the tent. This would give me a look at the Abhainn Gleann Tanagaidh, which I'd have to cross to get back to Kinlochewe Heights. The lower section of Groban was more peat hags, with the whitened roots of murdered trees poking out of the peat, the higher sections just grassy. Reached the summit at 2.45 and pressed on to Bheag. Thankfully Bheag is 100m lower than Groban, so it's probably worth doing them in this order as you only have 200m of steep upness from the bealach to do Bheag second rather than 300 if you have Groban to do. I noticed a herd of 30-odd deer on the flanks of Bheag, barking and running off once they spotted (or smelled) me. Probably the latter
The ascent to Bheag wasn't that bad and I was soon at the summit. As I descended steeply off the south side I got a view of the river obstacle - it looked broad but shallow (as if I could tell depth from this distance) but I was reassured that I'd get over alright. I made my laborious way back to the tent over many peat hags, finding an ATV track at one point.
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Summit Groban
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Beinn Bheag
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Abhainn Gleann Tanagaidh
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Beinn nan Ramh behind the tent
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It was now about 5.30 and I withered whether to stay put or move to the banks of the Tanagaidh river, which also looked like it had ideal campspots. Heavy rain was forecast for overnight and the wise thing to do would have been to head over tonight, get across and have nothing to worry about in the morning. But I thought it would be ok and I liked the spot I'd already chosen , so that was what I did. I love camping in remote river valleys and this was a nice one. I had my meal sitting by the river's edge then read for a bit before the rain started. And it rained for most of the night.
In the morning the river level was several inches higher than it had been the night previously. I donned waterproofs and started off towards Gleann Tanagaidh, which took a while as not only were there peat hags to negotiate but lots of new gushy streamlets as well. I got to the river and noticed it was very fast flowing. And deep. Hmmm. I could walk upstream for 2-3km and cross higher up if I had to...I walked towards the start of the track on the opposite side and saw a point where I could at least make out the rocks on the bottom all the way across. I took off trousers and boots, donned my watersheds, tied my boots around my neck by their laces and set off into the current. It was strong, and up to mid-thigh, but the stones under the water gave good footing and I was over without incident, a little refreshed by the immersion. I just kept my water shoes on until I'd reached the track, as there were a few smaller tributaries to cross, then dried off as best I could and started up the track.
Hmmm
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It's a good stalkers path, typical of the area, and had me up to the top of Meallan Odhar quickly, before dropping down the other side into Gleann na Muice and joining the track up from Kinlochewe Heights that is very familiar. I thought I'd see some CWT walkers, but not a one. All the streams were white and gushy today. I Mae good progress back along the track, the only person I saw being an old man who had come from the rental cottage along the track and was going fishing in the swollen river. My car was still the only vehicle in Incheril car park.
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My journey so far had gained my two of my remaining three Round Two Grahams as well as a clutch of third round ones. It was now time to finish the round off on Beinn Ghobhlaich. But first, in the interests of efficiency, there was one more hill to be climbed. The tale continues...
