There and back again: the south Glen Shiel Ridge

[johnbythell]

So 'there and back again' refers to the cycle ride back to the start point, the bridge near the Glen Shiel battle site, after stashing the bike near the Cluanie Inn and after completing the middle 5 of the South Glen Shiel Ridge. This was easily the most terrifying bit of the whole day and it was also raining hard by then and a surprisingly long way - about 8.75 km as the crow flies. I also thought it was nearly all downhill in that direction, which it most definitely is not. I'd highly recommend doing this with friends and two cars, because I can tell you there are lot of people desperately trying to get to Skye in a hurry (maybe because of the first nice weather forecast this weekend in quite a while) making the cycle ride a bit of a desperate undertaking.

The hiking part sounds like a bit of an epic, but it really didn't feel like it - a bit of an 'iffy' weather day, but once you're on the ridge, the munros just seem to appear miraculously out of thin air - quite literally given the cloud base at around the height of the bealachs for most of the day. Here's how it went:

South Glen Shiel Ridge 20 July 2023.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

The somewhat dodgy-feeling start point, dipping under the barrier on the west end of the Eas-nan-Arm bridge, just west of the Glen Shiel battle site car park

First impressions were as per the forecast, with good weather untill about 11, then heavy rain for the middle part of the day. I got an early-ish start and was away by 8am to try and get as far along as possible before the weather broke.

Not sure where that light is pointing exactly, but someone should go and dig there immediately! - Looking up Glen Shiel to the east

The path lower down is well-trod, but the branch off to the west to Creag nan Damh is little used- it follows the ridgeline in the centre of this photo

This is the path!

Looking back down the ridge with the A87 in the background

Nearing the top, cloud already coming in with the weather from the west

Creag nan Damh summit - I nearly missed it by 20m, why do people build cairns at the not-summit?

The next one in line, Sgurr an Lochain and western Glen Quoich

Looking back to Sgurr nan Damh from the bypass path on the flanks of Sgurr Beag

With aerial views of the Wester Glen Quoich burn

There were a lot of disappointing false summits on the way up to Sgurr an Lochain, now lost in the cloud

The cloud made for some atmospheric vistas along the ridgeline

The Coire an Lochain appearing magically out of the mist

Not a lot to see on Sgurr an Doire Leathain

Loch Quoich revealing itself as I dropped out of the cloud again at the bealach

And Loch Cluanie over on the other side

Number four for the day, Maol Chinn-Dearg. The forecasted heavy rains had not materialised, but the drizzle set in for a while as I came up to the summit and on the lunch stop in the lee of the summit.

The cloud showing signs of lifting at the bealach, heading towards Aonach air-Chrith

The airy lower ridge of Aonach air-Chrith, which has a few spots of scrambling

All done! Now to find a descent route. I had planned on taking the scrambling north ridge of Druim na Ciche, but with the rain clouds coming in up the glen, I decided to head down into the Coire to the east (which I'd checked on the map the day before to make sure there was a safe exit!)

Which turns out is a pretty magical place, very little traffic down here

The going was easy in the upper coire, though more tussocky and boggy lower down, with the Cluanie Inn looking a welcome site in the distance

And plenty of botannical interest (spotted orchid I'm told)

Looking back up into the coire from the lower slopes. It was harder going here and very wet in places. I also had a couple of in-spate burns to cross before making it down to the Cluanie Lodge track.

Where I picked up my bike that I had cunningly stashed under a camo net (totally unnecessary most likely, but hey, no-one stole it..)

And then it was just the long, wet and terrifyingly dangerous cycle back down the glen on the A87 - job done!

A really atmospheric round, which was a lot less arduous than I had expected it to be, but I would seriously recommend not doing the cycle return option - the A87 is just too terrifying to ride. I had two very close (less than a metre) passes by cars at full speed, and that was with me pulling off the road at every available opportunity to let people pass. It really is not a safe option I'm afraid.

[mamoset]

When we did the south ridge, we left the car at Cluanie and cycled, mostly downhill, for just shy of 8 miles, to the start. Only took 30 mins. As we set off at 7:20, traffic was minimal. We figured we'd rather go the extra 180m uphill at the start and save the knees for the descent at the end of a long day.

Chris

[johnbythell]

When we did the south ridge, we left the car at Cluanie and cycled, mostly downhill, for just shy of 8 miles, to the start. Only took 30 mins. As we set off at 7:20, traffic was minimal. We figured we'd rather go the extra 180m uphill at the start and save the knees for the descent at the end of a long day.

Chris

Yeah, that would be a good way to do it to avoid the traffic. I think I figured that I'd be tired and just pull over whenever there was anyone behind me, but there are a lot of places you can't actually get off the road, and the traffic was pretty constant when I did it, at about 3:30pm... your way definitely better!

[Amanda1425]

Glad you made it safely!

I walked a couple of miles along the A87 this week after coming down Sgurr nan Conbhairean. You can stay safely back off the road for the most part on the verge, however some cars passed me at 80 MPH without moving over. Not the funnest experience I’ve ever had!

[johnbythell]

Glad you made it safely!

I walked a couple of miles along the A87 this week after coming down Sgurr nan Conbhairean. You can stay safely back off the road for the most part on the verge, however some cars passed me at 80 MPH without moving over. Not the funnest experience I’ve ever had!

Thanks - and you too! It's a bit ironic that we get all the safety warnings about being in the hills, when walking on the side of the road can be by far the most serious undertaking. As you say, not fun!

[gorillagorilla]

I did the same cycle when doing the ridge and knowing the road was apprehensive about the traffic, so did it not long after 6am, barely saw any vehicles at all and it was actually enjoyable. Being at the start of my day rather than the end it definitely felt mostly downhill and at the time was about furthest I had cycled at once.

Anyone else considering it I'd recommend an early start if that can work in with your plans.