Beinn Eighe - from end to (almost) end

[Verylatestarter]

The Route

Our previous visit to BE was on 20/6/2019, a damp miserable claggy day when we only saw one other person on the hill (a fell runner who didn’t stop to talk). Being such a big complex mountain the regular route misses a lot of interesting features, including four Munro Tops, spread along the ridge 5Km apart. With a view to revisiting on a hopefully better day I compiled information from other reports and thought I could do an end to end traverse, Sail Mhor to The Black Carls, a long day but worthwhile.

Thanks to jmarkB – (Beinn Eighe Scrambles – In Victorian Footsteps)
Christopher Pulman – (Beinn Eighe the complete ridge)
Caingorm Creepers – (A fine route to Sail Mhor on Beinn Eighe).

The problem with visiting Scotland for short periods (1 to 2 weeks) is that you feel you have to commit to doing the hills in “sub optimal conditions”; I would always avoid big hills on days with a bad forecast but when the forecast is uncertain as it was for 21/5/23, the temptation is to trust to luck and go for it. The MWIS forecast was for early low cloud clearing to 70% clear tops later. Given the long walk in and the big scramble I thought it would work out well, and envisaged a stroll along the main ridge in beautiful clear weather i.e. not like last time.

I left the car park at 7;50, disappointed not to see the resident deer; the cloud was low (500m ish) but at least it wasn’t raining. Somewhere along Coire Dubh Mor I met up with Albert, a Bavarian who tours Europe with a Ska band and works part time in a chemical factory and on his son’s farm. A delight to talk to which some interesting views on the World talking to Albert seemed to make the time fly by and we arrived in Coire Mhic Fhearchir about 9;45. Albert was hoping to see the Triple Buttress and didn’t intend to traverse the hill so we parted company after a snack.

The bottom of the scree fan; on the West side of Coire Mich Fhearchair.

Looking back down at the loose scree, I kept close to the bottom of the wall

I headed for the scree fan which I had identified as the start of the Lawson Ling and Glover route, back in 2019 (the 3rd photo in Christopher Pulman’s report shows the route profile very clearly) . The boulders are large and loose but with care can be ascended close to the wall; at the top of the fan it narrows into a steep gully; a vertical face on the left and, lower down, on the right, steep grass. The first issue for me was that the grass was sodden wet, steep and with a vertical drop at the bottom of the slope. Now was the time to turn back if I was going to but the temptation to try a bit, then a bit more took over and before too long it was just as difficult to go back as go forward. Essentially, I crawled up the grassy slope, trying out every step, hold, and anchor point, making small moves and getting soaked on the grass.

The grassy slope, as steep as it looks and sodden wet.

Start of the rocky outcrops, over to the left is the steep gully and vertical wall forming it's South side

The start of the scrambling, good steps, good holds, if a little damp. It was a relief to get onto the sandstone.

The start of the rib that ends in the tower; fortunately the clag conceals the exposure.

Looking back down the rib, Morrisson's gully is on left.

I eventually made the base of the rocky outcrops, and even though they were wet they were a much better prospect than the grass. I looked over to the gully to check if it was still accessible if I wanted to retreat; it was but once on the rock it became increasingly inaccessible due to the drop. I worked through the rocky steps, none of which were too difficult, and the wide bands of rock became narrower until a pronounced rib loomed out of the mist. Again the scrambling was not difficult but there was exposure on both sides. The thickness of the mist limited my awareness of the exposure but I was now between two gullies (Morrison’s and the one I started up). Concentrating on the moves on the rock, the appearance of the tower came as a surprise despite the fact that it’s mentioned in all of the reports I had read. In the mist it looked even more intimidating but given that it had been climbed by many and that going back down from where I was would have been hazardous I resolved to give it a try.

The 'Tower' with the North face behind. It's maybe 20m although id didn't hang around to measure it.

The 'Tower's' very own Mini-me.

Wet, slippy, scrambling on the 'Tower'. A progression of 1.5 to 2m steps with narrow ledges between

The tower clearly had weaknesses; there being at least three apparent steps, when viewed straight on but when I tried the most obvious the moves just seemed too risky; both the damp conditions and the feeling of solitude inhibited taking any risks. I gave up after two attempts and followed ledges round to the right (West) where the exposure was greater; after a couple of steps up I had to retreat as no more moves opened up. Back I went to the original route still looking for alternatives on the way. After another two attempts with my stupidly heavy (because I’d packed for a very long day and a full range of weather) pack removed – I had to push it almost out of reach to make enough room for myself on the ledge – I got onto the first ledge, now I worried about getting back down if I couldn’t get further. The next few steps were easier but very exposed and I was relieved to get my hands onto the flat slabs on top of the tower. What an eerie place in such conditions, the slab is remarkably flat, and could almost be human made – a place of sacrifice in an Aztec temple? The steep rock strewn gullies either side receded into the mist and the feeling of isolation was profound. Above me the sandstone blocks and slabs just kept going on upwards. I had a welcome sit down and snack, preparing for the next stage.

The 'paved' top of the tower. The first point at which I could rest, knowing that the worst (or best?) was behind me

Looking down on the flat top of the 'Tower' with steep gullies either side

The sun makes an appearance and reveals how much scrambling is left to do - how my heart sank!

The route above the slab was mainly grade 1 scrambling with a few grassy bands between. Looking back down, the slab soon receded out of view and lo and behold, the sun made an appearance, there was hope that the sky may clear and I’d get my sunlit stroll along the ridge. The only problem was that in the improved light I could see how much height I still had to gain, which was a lot. I eventually made it onto an apparent nose above which the sandstone turned to quartzite; the latter formed a 2m high barrier which had no easy lines viewed from where I stood; so I moved along the grassy area to the left (East) until I found a break in the barrier. Once on top the view was filled with random slabs of grey quartzite with a cliff on the right, above Morrisson’s gully. The cairn loomed out of the mist and I rock hopped over to it. There was nothing to see except the immediate vicinity; the piles of slabs look very unstable and I proceeded with caution. It was a blessed relief knowing I had completed the most difficult part of the route.

Continued scrambling on sandstone, nice.

The last of the sandstone, the North 'prow' of the summit ridge.

The top capping of quartzite slabs viewed from the top of the 'prow'. The easiest ascent is round to the left (East)

First view of the summit, from the North. Apparently it has unrivalled views of the Triple Buttress!

South view of the summit, I tried not to sneeze as it looks as though the whole top of the hill was loose. This also appears to be the top of Morrisson's gully.

It was clear that the clag would not lift quickly, no spectacular views of the Triple Buttress were on offer so I made my way down to the bealach and then up the gradual ascent to the Ugly Step. I have a whole folder of pictures of this feature, some taken by myself from adjacent hills, partly because I have never read a convincing report of the route; unfortunately today was not a good one for route finding.

Profile of the Ugly step as seen from Liathach

Again the sandstone turns to the quartzite as the level rises and there are several large blocks to be circumvented. I thought I was doing well over the first couple of outcrops on the ridge until I came to the very steep nose that appeared to be a fourth buttress . There was a fairly obvious route which veered to the rights around the base of the nose and along the South side; this route seemed to give out at a steep corner which looked as though it might be possible to scramble, but not by me.

The approach to the Ugly step from the Sail Mhor bealach.

Start of Ugly step, first rise.

Second rise.

Jumble of quartzite blocks along the ridge

The Ugly step reveals it's true self after the preambles. For some reason this came as a suprise.

I worked round to this large step on the right ride and recognised the location however, I didn't think I could tackle what appears to be a steep scramble.

Looking back over my shoulder I could see a stepped incline which seemed a reasonable route, so I took it and made height pretty quickly until I came to the nose and a band of inclined slabs, wet and slippy, with a small ledge at the base. At the end of these there was a shallow gully and a series of awkward blocks but none too large that couldn’t be climbed. The slope gradually eased off and grass appeared; I noted a well-used route on the right hand slope coming up to the ridge and surmised that this was the route commonly used, it appears that the path carried on past the steep corner over what appeared to be easier ground.

A much easier route was apparent back on the left.

The slabs at the top of the 'easier route' wet and exposed but led onto a shallow groove and stepped blocks.

The top of the Ugly step nose; widening out onto Coineach Mhor

The ridge levelled off and broadened out, a couple of cairns marked the start of the down route I had just ascended. I checked a compass bearing to get me to the other end of Coinneach Mhor and kept to it until I met a cairn with a path going to the left, disappearing into the clag; I was convinced that this was same cairn I had lunch at in 2019 so I sat down and had my lunch. It was only when I got going again that I realised my mistake, the ground did not drop off to a bealach nor narrow but the wide open expanse of Coinneach Mhor seemed to go on and on (I would have measured how many football pitches could fit on it – but I couldn’t be arsed); fortunately I kept to my compass bearing and eventually the ground seemed to rise to another cairn. At that point I met a man walking in my direction, dressed all in black and with walking poles, he seemed intent on crossing the Mhor but when I spoke to him (the first person I talked to since parting with Albert 4.5 hrs. before) it was apparent he was heading the wrong way and was intending to descend via Coire an Laoigh. After a long discussion about which one of us was the one eyed king in this land of the blind we headed the way Ben and I went 4 years ago. The only problem was that I knew the direction but couldn’t for the life of me remember any of the features, except the Trig point. I think it must have been the poor visibility on both days that disorientated me as I normally have a good recall of routes and features, after all it’s not as if I rush over them.

Yours truly looking almost cheery, having survived so far. Taken by my temporary walking companion.

After traversing the narrow bealach we reached the Trig point at 3;20 and parted company, I could just about make out a figure easing down the slope towards the Stuc. Reassured I carried on along the ridge towards SCnC, first downhill then gradually uphill over rough narrow ground with rocky outcrops. It appeared that the clag was lifting and there were occasional glimpses of features beyond a few tens of meters. I arrived at the summit at 15;35 in time for another lunch which I took on a rocky step facing South, my hope being that I could see the air clearing and see anyone approaching, having heard voices through the gloom. I sat there quite some time and came to the conclusion that I was wasting time waiting for it to fully clear so at 16;20 I headed off East towards Sgurr Ban. As I went down the slope from the Munro the wind was beginning to shift the mist giving glimpses of the ridge ahead and the Coire below; looking back the top of SCnC cleared momentarily but filled back in again after a few minutes.

The view from SCnC, looking back to the trig point and, on the left, Stuc Coire an Laoigh emerging from the clag. I suspect the weather Gods were taunting me.

The view of the ridge to Sgurr Ban from SCnC

Stuc Coire an Laoigh now clear, SCnC clearing and Lathach peeping out.

Sgurr Ban top with SnFD beyond. Apparently there's solid rock under all that scree.

I am no great fan of quartzite hills and was reluctant to come back to Beinn Eighe; compared to say Beinn Alligin it is an uncomfortable walk at times, especially Ruadh-stac Mor with its large field of loose sharp boulders. However the quartzite at the East end of the hill appears much more benign; smaller and less angular, everywhere you look on the hill there are scree slopes but these are mostly fine light chippings, not large lumps. Sgurr Ban (the 3rd Munro Top of the day) was a pleasant stroll; the path down to the next bealach was straightforward and the mist continued to clear. The slope up Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe was a little rougher but not too strenuous; over to the left were the dark angular pinnacles of the Black Carls descending from the North ridge of the last Munro Top. I reached the top at 17;40 and carried on towards the Carls easing downhill to the first big step; this side of the hill was still shrouded in mist, there was a lot of loose rock and it didn’t seem too appealing to my eyes.

Looking West from Sgurr Ban, SCnC now clear - I was only 50minutes too early for a decent view

Sgurr nan Fhir Dubhe with the Black Carls halfway along. I got to the first big notch before I turned around.

Sgurr Ban from the top of SnFD. The WH descent route can be clearly seen in the Coire to the left.

Not the Black Carls - the West slope of SnFD. My descent route was left off the lowest point of the bealach.

A quick look at the map and considering the time I surmised that I would not be back at the hostel for 20;00, which was the time I’d stated on the ‘Clive form’ I’d left with the reception, if I carried on along to Creag Dubh and Kinlochewe. It was a fairly easy decision to turn back so I headed back over the Top and down to the bealach having had a good look at the bands of scree descending down into the coire below. I selected the widest one with the lowest start point, this proved to have remarkably fine gravelly white quartzite scree and descending in long strides was surprisingly easy and comfortable. A couple of times the streams of scree joined and there were occasional bands of larger blocks and steps; but visibility was good and by keeping my speed down I avoided any hazards. In a short time I had descended 300 to 400m and was in the Coire; it was my fastest and most enjoyable descent of a Munro ever.

The scree slope made up of very fine scree. The exit path passes the small square copse by road.

The view back towards Sgurr Ban from road level

I intended to head over to the main exit footpath but given the dry ground it was easier to follow the lie of the land and ease down to the small wood where the path meets the road. A couple of miles stroll along the road in the now beautiful clear evening got me back to the car park where Callum the deer was sitting next to my car; he looked listless and I suspect he was feeling his age, he was not the only one and I’d be surprised if he’d be there next year. I arrived back in the hostel just as the receptionist was about to phone me.

A long tiring day but what a day; for me a great challenge, at times alarming and at others miserable but I was so glad I did it. The Black Carls will be there for a while yet and it would be good to have a go at them, hopefully with Ben, maybe on a clear day.

[WildAboutWalking]

An excellent and at times quite gripping account. Pity that you missed the view, but what a day on the hill!

[weaselmaster]

I’ve often thought about using that route, but have been put off by the “bad step” We still have business with some tops on Beinn Eighe and may or may not be brave enough to do it this way…
Pity about the clag.

[Christopher Pulman]

Glad you got a chance to try the Lawson Ling and Glover route. Looks like you had an excellent day notwithstanding the weather. I don't recall the bad step being a problem at all (at least in ascent), but I was doing it in bright sun, which makes route finding much easier. It's always a bit unnerving to have a buttress ahead suddenly loom out of the cloud.

[Verylatestarter]

I would not be put off by my apparent difficulty; I was hesitant, given the conditions and being solo, and I would like to think it would be a much lesser problem without those two issues. I suspect, from your many excellent reports, you would have no difficulty. It was a dramatic and interesting route and I'd be happy to do it again.

It was a great day despite the difficulty and weather; I'm coming to the conclusion that is the normal weather on Beinn Eighe and everybody else's reports are faked.

All the best

John

[weaselmaster]

I would not be put off by my apparent difficulty; I was hesitant, given the conditions and being solo, and I would like to think it would be a much lesser problem without those two issues. I suspect, from your many excellent reports, you would have no difficulty. It was a dramatic and interesting route and I'd be happy to do it again.

It was a great day despite the difficulty and weather; I'm coming to the conclusion that is the normal weather on Beinn Eighe and everybody else's reports are faked.

All the best

John

I’m not much of a scrambler so I’m taking nothing for granted. I’ve been up on Beinn Eighe four times and always had good weather, especially last time in aug 21 when it was a perfect day. Sorry 😊

[Anne C]

Ooft - tough stuff! - glad you got some views though difficult conditions overall , John.