Five Hills from the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, Langdale,

[Sgurr]

Five Wainwrights from Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel

I drove down to the Lake District to attempt to bag the remaining Wainwrights in Langdale. Our original Lake District campaign started with the ones that would have been Munros in Scotland. Then when we had knocked off some Scottish lists and started on the Marilyns we had come down to do the ones in the Lake District. Finally R and I had started a mopping up campaign, which sadly ended for him on Glaramara. This week’s were what remained
I had booked in The Old Dungeon Ghyll which unsurprisingly was full of walkers….or ex walkers.

On Tuesday 8th August, I set out for Rossett Pike, having only got as far as the sheepfold at the end of the valley in March when the path had added a second gill to the one already there. Today was much better weather. The track was busy with people overtaking me, either en-route to Scafell Pike, or doing the Cumbrian Way.
Below: setting out


Below: looking back


Below: the path went through the notch


After the pass, there was very little climbing

Below: towards the summit (blurred)


Below: summit


Below: I had to scramble round some rocks before I could actually get at the summit


Below: Angle Tarn, looking very peaceful. “That’s what we thought,” said a friend, recounting the story of him (15 ) and his younger brother testing their new sleeping bags in the period between Xmas and new year 1973. The nearest weather station registered winds of over 100 m.p.h that night and the fly-sheet of their nearly new tent (£3-50 from Exchange and Mart.) flew away. He hoped that if only one of them died, it would be him, because he couldn’t bear to think how he would account for the loss of brother to his parents. Walking down they met MRT coming up looking for an overdue couple. The lads were told to go to the pub, where he ordered a pint and fell asleep. His brother hearing only one side of the radio conversation thought the couple were dead: but if big brother could play nonchalant, so could he. Only 20 years later did they discuss it again, and with the advent of the internet, friend looked up the episode and found that the couple had been found alive….just.

Below, descending was a bit hard on the knees, but it was still only a 2 ibuprofen day


I had been slow, and had a long lunch, so it was around 2.30 p.m. when I met a guy coming up here who said “Is this the way? “
“It depends where you’re going.” “To the top.” “Which top.” Deep thought. “I think it’s called Skyfall Peak.” I don’t have his photo, though he asked if he could take mine. Maybe he liked the Shetland hat I bought from friend Mark. As he is a paediatric nurse who had retired before Covid, he got out of returning to hospital as so few kids got it badly, but when the vaccine arrived, he volunteered and had spare time to knit 50 hats for charity in between jabs.


On Thursday August 10th. I had booked one of Graham Uney’s guides, Sharon, to walk with me up Bowfell, Esk Pike and Great End. It had been some time since I climbed a Munro, and these were near Munro height at 2960 feet, 2903 feet and 2984 feet. I don’t know what I thought she would do if I collapsed, but at least there would be someone to call MRT. She was great company, and I only hope I didn’t bore her, carrying on about hills, book selling et al. It took us 10 hours. Though I am sure she could gallop over them in 6 or 7 hours, she was very patient.

Below: Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel


Below: Bowfell in the middle


Below: walking up The Band

Below: looking back


Below: Summit


Below: Way down


Below: Way to Esk Pike. Sharon said that we were very lucky, she has never seen the views before




Below: Path up Esk Pike


Below: Sharon looking towards Esk Pike Summit


Below: Summit


Below: Summit Great End


Below: View point on Great End


Below: Descending


Below: Hooray for Sharon (alas, a bit blurry)


Two wet days followed. I spent one actually following my satnav to see if its nasty robotic brain really wants to kill me, and came to the conclusion that it is going the shortest way rather than the fastest, but it doesn’t seem to have anything to change it. I also went swimming in Cockermouth pool. I LOVE these Lake District swimming pools as the Health Authority seems to have told all the really obese men “If you don’t swim, you will DIE!” with the result that I have already overtaken 4 blokes down there; something that hasn’t happened at home for decades, if you don’t count the one where I made a superhuman effort, and then looked down to find he only had one leg. The other day I went shopping for a new jacket in Keswick, and after visiting seven shops and finding it far more wearing than walking up a hill, I decided on a bright red Alpkit one, so that now I am getting on in years, if I fall over, I can be spotted.

On Sunday, August 12th, I climbed Thunacar Knott. R and I had previously climbed up to Stickle Tarn and climbed everything that actually looked like a separate hill. Thunacar Knott does not. On the other hand it is higher than most round there, which I suppose is why Wainwright let it in.

I set off the old familiar way I had climbed Rossett Pike and descended from Great End towards Stake Pass.

Below: the Herdwicks had just been sheered, so the Mum was as white as she’ll get until next year.


Below: looking up towards Rossett Pike again


Below: marker for Stake Pass


Below: looking back with showers on the way


Below: I met someone walking to Keswick over the Stake Pass, and he kindly took a pic of the new Alpkit jacket in case I didn’t meet anyone else all day, and I wanted a pic. to show people.


Below: path along the Stake Pass


Below: a path angled off towards the east


Below: after this it poured heavily most of the way to the summit, which is this


Below: unless it is this


Below: unless it is the cairn


Below: I turned, and amazingly could see things, but didn’t want to get the map out to work out what they could be

Below: possibly Pavey Ark


Below: possibly Pike of Stickle (the big one)


After that, I just walked back to Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.

[past my sell by date]

REMEMBRANCE DAY
In ca 1924 the Fell and Rock club purchased as large amount of land over 1500 ft in the central fells, and donated it to the National Trust in memory of the twenty members of the club who fell in the great war

It was (IMO) the best thing the club ever did.
On top of Great Gable is a memorial cairn (recently renewed) listing those who died -

They include SW Herford first conqueror of Central buttress (CB) on Sca Fell, and Lehman B Oppenheimer whose book " Heart of Lakeland" was one of my early favourites. On one occasion he walked from Keswick via Newlands, Buttermere and Scarth gap to Pillar rock, soloed the North Climb and walked back - (about 18hours I think) - quite an outing in those days.
Every year on this Sunday there is a brief memorial service ( 2 minutes silence) held at the cairn which I attended on quite a number of occasions - mainly in the 1990s. Numbers have been known to be over a hundred.
I post this here, because living in Staveley I used this route - Rossett Ghyll, Angle Tarn, Sprinkling Tarn,and Spyhead a number of times to make my way there. It meant an early start - as I needed to leave the ODG around 7.15 in the morning

[Sgurr]

We climbed Great Gable in 1997 but as it was part of a large Marilyn bagging day don't think we saw it. Isn't in R's account if the day while he usually noted things like that. I climbed Baluderon Hill behind Dundee yesterday to pay my respects to Syd Scroggie. His cairn is up there, and while he didn't give his life, was blown up in the battle of Monte Casino ,was blinded snd lost a leg below the.knee. After return he sent an advert to the Dundee Courier "Blind man wants companion to take him to the hills." It got no further than the ad. department as a guy there thought he could fo.it, but it wasn't until they were camping and he put his hand out encountering a hard object that he said "What the hell"s this Scroggie, and got the answer "That's my wooden leg." that he realised Syd was an amputee too. He wrote 2 books, one poetry "The Cairngorms Scene and Unseen." I loved it when he used to come into.my 2nd hand book shop.*His wife did the reading " I have so many Syd stories. BTW I gave decided I HATE the phrase "Gave his life." In some cases it may be true, but in many the life was ripped from them in a horrible and untimely way.

[WildAboutWalking]

I attended the service on Great Gable a couple of years ago, a memorable day, but failed this year - stabbing pain in the ankle as we set off from Borrowdale Youth Hostel at 0700, so my friend went on alone.

[past my sell by date]

I attended the service on Great Gable a couple of years ago, a memorable day, but failed this year - stabbing pain in the ankle as we set off from Borrowdale Youth Hostel at 0700, so my friend went on alone.

Yes it's a memorable occasion but the (normally) numerous dogs don't quite know what to do during the 2 minutes silence. It would be wonderful to have a Bugler to play the Last Post, but I guess Buglers are in great demand on that day.

[CharlesT]

Thanks for the report Sgurr, took me right back to the start of my climbing life in my teenage years. I probably first did that round when I was sixteen, over sixty years ago and lastly in 1992. You have now spurred me on to go back and climb Bowfell again before my knees give out for good. Mention of the ODG always evokes memories of the climber's bar in the early 1960's and the variety of characters and maniacs encountered there. Happy, happy days!

[past my sell by date]

Thanks for the report Sgurr, took me right back to the start of my climbing life in my teenage years. I probably first did that round when I was sixteen, over sixty years ago and lastly in 1992. You have now spurred me on to go back and climb Bowfell again before my knees give out for good. Mention of the ODG always evokes memories of the climber's bar in the early 1960's and the variety of characters and maniacs encountered there. Happy, happy days!

Yes Jim Cameron behind the bar and Sid Cross in the hotel - I remember it well. Still know Jim's son Hugh
As you say, happy days. I used to solo Middlefell buttress every time I waas there.

[CharlesT]

I used to solo Middlefell buttress every time I waas there.

Quickest way to Gimmer Crag, used it often. Must have been annoying to the novices being given their first roped rock experience when we bombed past.😸

[past my sell by date]

I used to solo Middlefell buttress every time I waas there.

Quickest way to Gimmer Crag, used it often. Must have been annoying to the novices being given their first roped rock experience when we bombed past.😸

Yes that was in the days before harnesses, helmets and rockboots - but lots of lovely Severes on Gimmer. I didn't get round to the "hard " side -- Gimmer crack, F route, KG etc til much later

[Sgurr]

Thanks for the report Sgurr, took me right back to the start of my climbing life in my teenage years. I probably first did that round when I was sixteen, over sixty years ago and lastly in 1992. You have now spurred me on to go back and climb Bowfell again before my knees give out for good. Mention of the ODG always evokes memories of the climber's bar in the early 1960's and the variety of characters and maniacs encountered there. Happy, happy days!

They were so kind to me in the ODG bar and insisted on giving me a free drink when I did the 3 near Munro sized hills together. Easier for you to get to Bowfell by about an hour than me, depending which part of Oxfordshire you inhabit....besides, you are almost 8 years younger. Go for it.

[CharlesT]

I used to solo Middlefell buttress every time I waas there.

Quickest way to Gimmer Crag, used it often. Must have been annoying to the novices being given their first roped rock experience when we bombed past.😸

Yes that was in the days before harnesses, helmets and rockboots - but lots of lovely Severes on Gimmer. I didn't get round to the "hard " side -- Gimmer crack, F route, KG etc til much later

Yes, and runnerless leads of VS's on a secondhand half weight hemp rope. I did all my hard rock routes before I went up to university aged eighteen, when I was immortal. 😸
At some point common sense must have taken over.

[goth_angel]

Not sure how I missed commenting on this, but great report. I've yet to do Esk Pike and Great End. I seem to have left a lot of the big ones till last

[Sgurr]

Not sure how I missed commenting on this, but great report. I've yet to do Esk Pike and Great End. I seem to have left a lot of the big ones till last

That's why I ended up taking a guide: not because I doubted my ability to find my way, but in case I bombed through exhaustion. I am more worried about imagining the headlines now, all of which start "Foolish octogenarian...." Bow Fell, Esk Pike and Great End are nearly Munros and I hadn't done one of those since 2022. And that was just Ben Chonzue to see if I could still get up above 3,000 feet.

[past my sell by date]

Yes, and runnerless leads of VS's on a secondhand half weight hemp rope. I did all my hard rock routes before I went up to university aged eighteen, when I was immortal. 😸
At some point common sense must have taken over.

I had an 11mm nylon rope - hawser laid of course - but as you say almost no protection. But when I came to live in the Lakes 20 odd years later, I met (through work) the legendary Colin Read ( Lord of the Rings etc) who took me under his wing
By this time Colin had lost half of one hand in an industrial accident , but he was still two grades better than me and eventually went on to do (English)5c and 6a that I just couldn't follow

[CharlesT]

Thanks for the report Sgurr, took me right back to the start of my climbing life in my teenage years. I probably first did that round when I was sixteen, over sixty years ago and lastly in 1992. You have now spurred me on to go back and climb Bowfell again before my knees give out for good. Mention of the ODG always evokes memories of the climber's bar in the early 1960's and the variety of characters and maniacs encountered there. Happy, happy days!

They were so kind to me in the ODG bar and insisted on giving me a free drink when I did the 3 near Munro sized hills together. Easier for you to get to Bowfell by about an hour than me, depending which part of Oxfordshire you inhabit....besides, you are almost 8 years younger. Go for it.

Finally managed to get round to going back and climbing Bowfell and Esk Pike today, good going until rain set in mid afternoon making the walk back to the ODG a wet misery. After 32 years away I'd forgotten just how far that is from Esk Hause, Fortunately met up with another wet soul who showed me an alternative route down avoiding the dreaded Rossett Ghyll.