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it's got to that time of year when one is aware that the summer is waning, the fruit has ripened and autumn will soon be upon us all. No more evenings in the longlight, no more carefree balmy days. And this weekend had a feel of that, especially since I'll not be out on the hills for the next fortnight, by which time I expect winter will be starting to make an appearance 😂. So here's a little tune to celebrate what is just passing...
Wind was the primary problem this weekend; wind and the probability of heavy rain at least on Saturday. Where would be driest? The oracle suggested the NorthWest - part of me was loth to drive away up there again having just been in the Fisherfields a fortnight ago, but then it was to be the last green days of summer... We had a few Corbetts and Grahams® in and around Torridon which might as well be done now rather than later in the year. Allison had no idea where we were off to until she got in the car and saw me set the route map to Kinlochewe. Not that I had decided where we were going to camp, but I was sure something would sort itself out... On the journey up we had a discussion - ignited by a lie in a song - about whether or not it's darkest just before the dawn. Allison maintained that this was true and used Google to back her up. My view was that it was probably the time in the middle between sunset and sunrise when the light was actually furthest away.
It was about 10pm when we drove past Kinlochewe, having stopped for our tea in the "Burger Queen" lay-by up Loch Lochy. It fascinates me how that van continues to remain there, now with some barrier put over the smashed window of the cab. Back in the day I think we caught it open twice. As usual there were at least half a dozen vans clustered about the far end of the lay-by. Safety in numbers, maybe? On the drive I'd realised that I'd forgotten to pack our boots - that could have been interesting save for me having a set of spares for each of us in the back of the car. I'd also decided we'd try a wee spot I'd used once on my own up the side of Loch Maree...trouble was I couldn't quite remember where it was...
Loch Maree
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Al, on Flickr
We parked up amidst a very busy parking area and set off in search of the spot I'd used before. Past a couple of tents on the beach - Czechs I think going by the car reg. Onwards into the dark, heather tearing at our legs. A false memory of where the spot was then bingo...now I was concerned that it would be big enough to take the two man tent - I'd used it with my little one-man before...After a bit of jiggery-pokery we managed to get pitched, a strong breeze coming off the loch keeping midges away. Indeed the loch waters were lapping quite forcefully at the rocks on the shore. Loch Maree is the fourth largest loch in Scotland, Allison informed me. We enjoyed the stars then aimed for sleep.
My kind of morning
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Al, on Flickr
1 & 2 - Ruadh-stac Beag & Meall a'Ghiubhias 19k. 1370m asc 8.75 hours
A beautiful morning, brilliant sunshine scouring our eyes. The wind was even stronger than the night before and we had some little fun getting the tent down. Back to the wee beach where the campers were fixing breakfast. Today we'd do Ruadh-stac Beag and Meall a'Ghiubhais - a combination, I noted, that WH says is for "The Fittest Walkers". That must be us then 😂😂. With a bit of chortling at the idea we headed towards the Visitor Centre where I'd routed us from. Allison had run out of painkillers, her new script not being issued in time for the weekend, so she knew she'd be in for an exciting time. I'd chosen to do RSB first, as we'd done Ghiubhais first on the other occasion we combined this pair. To begin the walk, the sky was brilliant blue, the white clouds high up being torn along by the high winds. We could see some grey clouds coming over - hopefully they'd not trouble us with rain.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
The path out to the mid-point between the hills is a good one, typical of the area and takes you to just over 450m We knew it was a bit "off road" to the riverside path that follows up the Allt Loch an Tuill Bhain in the ravine between RSB and the Black Carls ridge. Across to our right, Meall a'Ghiubhais was looking lovely. Lovely but steep...we had that to think about for later. Following deer tracks we got to the river's edge and followed up on the east side of the river until we'd come to the southern extremity of RSB. Where we had our lunch. Beinn Eight was displayed before us - a complex and alluring mountain. Previous visits here have been with less than optimal views - today was a real peach.
Ghiubhais
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
The scramble up the boulder field to the summit plateau takes a bit of time - the boulders are sometimes loose - a bit like the scree path it you choose to take that instead. Allison had taken a less than ideal route thinking I'd gone that way...we were both finally up at the crown of the hill, ready to make our way over more boulders to the summit. Lovely views out to sea, along to Liathach, wherever the eye took you. Windy though. We reckoned RSB would be a difficult summit camp due to the rockiness of the ground. Back down the same route we'd taken up and along to the midpoint of the track again.
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Al, on Flickr
Beinn Eighe - a complex mountain
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Al, on Flickr
Summit RSB
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Liathach in the background
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
There are a few cairns marking a route over the heather and bumps towards the bottom of Meall a'Ghiubhais, then it's a matter of slogging up 350m. We saw a couple on their way down, going rather gingerly. Other than them, no-body else on the hills. From the top, some dramatic views of RSB nestled in the crescent of Beinn Eighe; more views out to sea. We headed down aiming for the path we could see in the distance snaking its way back to the visitor centre - make sure you take the correct path or you'll have a bit of a road walk to end your day with. We enjoyed views over to Slioch and Beinn a'Mhuinidh, one of the hills on tomorrow's list, as we headed down.
RSB nestling
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Summit Ghiubhais
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Beinn a'Mhuinidh
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Al, on Flickr
Another quite late finish - it was about 6.30 when we reached the car and we still had to decide on a place to camp. Drove to Incheril and found a spot not that far from the car park. Very windy, with a strong easterly hitting the tent, but we had the Nammatj so weren't bothered by the wind. A quiet night apart from the howls of the wind and sundry night-spirits taking flight. Realised, in the morning, that I'd left the porridge in the car, so we had an extra ginger snap each with our coffee. Packed the tent away and returned to the car for our day packs, meeting a couple of guys who were off along Loch Maree to try a high camp on Beinn Lair...I did suggest the causeway or indeed the barn at Carnmore if the night got really wild...
3. Beinn a'Mhiunidh 10k 750m asc 3.5 hours
This was another hill in a prime location that we'd had less than ideal views from in the past. Especially the first time when we were staying in Kinlochewe for a week in February and we had awful weather. Anyway, wasn't looking too promising today when we set off from the car park - grey clouds with a threat of rain. We loosely followed Black Panther's track but took an earlier line up though the bracken following a deer run that served us well. Once you cross the Allt Chnaimhean it's a series of ups and downs, aiming for the eastern shoulder of the summit outcrop - definitely easier to attain when you can see where you are headed, as previous journeys over here in mist have taught us.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Summit Mhuinidh
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Al, on Flickr
When we reached to top, Slioch was still capped by cloud, as were the other Torridon giants, but slowly this started to peel away and by the time we were headed down we had some more than adequate views. And it had stayed dry! We were both feeling a bit knackered today, to be honest and not really in the mood for another hill. Our options included Meall a'Chaorainn at Achnasheen, but as I wanted to do it along with Fionn Bheinn that was going to be left for Sunday; Fuar Tholl - too big a day to start now; and Beinn Ghobhlaich which was a short enough hill but needed a 60mile drive round to Badrallach.
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Al, on Flickr
Slioch
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
I opted for the latter and we set off, going via Poolewe. Gorgeous sunshine - Ghobhlaich looked fantastic from Badcauk as we passed by on the south shore of Little Loch Broom. I don't really like driving the thin strip of road from Corrie Hallie to Badralloch if truth be told, and it didn't upset me to think this is probably the last time I'll drive it. We parked at the end of the road in a parking area that was full and sat eating a bag of crisps. As we did so, a man who looked like a friendly wizard passed by in a blue van and gave us a cheery wave.
4. Beinn Ghobhlaich 9k 650m asc 3.5 hours
I'd been up here just a month ago, completing my second round of Grahams so was familiar with the terrain. On that occasion I'd camped at Badrallach and walked from there - adding probably 2k to the route. We plodded along the coast path, turning up at the large cairn of small stones. The WH route would have you go up the middle of the gully - my suggestion is that you turn up at the cairn and keep to the higher ground on the east of the gully where it is firmer and drier underfoot and you don't have to avoid the many holes in the ground made by the stream that also runs down the centre of the gully. Either way brings you to the highpoint before Loch na h-Uidhe, which you have to walk round the eastern shore of, until you come to the little beach at the north end of it - after which you make your way steeply up to the summit. Deer paths, human paths, whatever, you get up to the sandstone nub of the mountain. Last time I'd been hurrying up here to try and reach the summit before the clag obscured everything and narrowly failed. Today it looked like it might start raining, but no, it kept dry where we were although we could see rain falling elsewhere around us. Another summit, a better view than last time.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
We descended by the same route, wearily lumbering along the path back to the car. It was about 7pm and almost all the other cars that had been there when we'd arrived were still there. Surprising. Didn't see anyone else on the hill. If it was to be Meall a'Chaorainn and Fionn Bheinn tomorrow I thought we'd better head back along the road a bit tonight. The campsite at Bdralloch was full - we'd seen that when we came up, so we headed round by Corrieshalloch and camped in a place we often use along the A835. One other vehicle in the parking area, a Welsh registered small van with blackout material strapped across the windshield and front windows and bungee corded to the wheels. Maybe it was a vampire? Perhaps they'd have been able to answer the question about the darkest time of night, being a vital bit of information for the fanged kind...
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Very windy when we pitched the tent - we wondered about the guys who'd been planning to camp on Beinn Lair - the forecast for Slioch was 40mph with gusts of 50 overnight. Not my idea of ideal for a hight camp. By morning the wind had abated, enough in fact for some midges to start congregating by the tent. We drove round to Achnasheen and got ready to set off once more.
5 & 6 - Meall a'Chaorainn and Fionn Bheinn 11.5k 1000m asc 5 hours
There didn't seem much point in doing the Graham® on its own - given that adding in Fionn Bheinn was only another 400m ascent or thereabouts. And it would come in handy for Round 4. So we took the usual route up Fionn Bheinn crossing the Allt beside the little dam. Indeed there is a proper track leading up on the west side of the Allt you could use to get to here, although the "Walkers" sign points to the opposite side of the river. Anyway, after that, there's a morass of bogs/peat hags to negotiate to reach the base of Meall a'Chaorainn. Then a steep but drier pull up to the summit. As I was climbing, a hare popped up no further than 6 feet ahead of me, decided to "play dead" and lay with ears back, belly pressed into the ground hoping that I'd not notice him. I walked the opposite way but when I looked back from a bit higher up he was still there, watching me intently.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
Fionn Bheinn
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Al, on Flickr
Meall a'Chaorainn
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Al, on Flickr
The summit of this one is another hill I've not previously had views from and it was great to have that changed today. A superb viewpoint and would serve as a good high camp as well, with soft mossy carpet underfoot.
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Al, on Flickr
The bealach of bog...
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Al, on Flickr
We headed back down to the bog-strewn bealach, pausing for lunch on the bottom slopes of Fionn Bheinn. A steady climb up easy grass, eventually joining with the standard path up. Lots of walkers on this hill today. From the trig, cracking views into the Fisherfields and further north. We took the standard route down, which is basically a soggy motorway. No matter the weather you can always count on Fionn Bheinn to be wet underfoot.
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
The drive back home was sunny and hot - we were both feeling quite tired. No cold juice in the car, nor in the petrol station I stopped off at in Tore.
