A moorland walk among more moorland (and bog)

[djarvie]

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When I arrived at 10am after an over 2 hour drive, there were still traces of cloud on the tops, but they soon cleared and it turned out to be a better day than forecast - warm with sunny intervals, and little wind. I started in my summer boots up the good track along Glen Banchor. I'd also brought my newish waterproof all season boots, but because they have previously caused foot problems, I didn't want to rely on them for the entire walk.

Track along Glen Banchor, the route being to the right before Creag Liath (centre)

Once I turned up into the valley alongside the Allt Fionndrigh, the track was rougher and occasionally wet.

Walking up beside Allt Fionndrigh past Creag Liath (left)

After the end of the track, a path continued, crossing the burn via a not entirely confidence inspiring wooden bridge, and then leading up through a dip between hills over to Gleann Ballach. The path got increasingly boggy, and I changed to my waterproof boots in time to avoid getting my feet soaked.

Càrn Dearg ahead via the boggy path into Gleann Ballach

It was quite a tramp through lots of boggy sections until I came level with the near end of Càrn Dearg's ridge. I crossed the Allt Ballach and headed up the steep slope below the south top, taking a route which avoided crags. It was grass mixed in some places with rocks, and with the steepness I found that using poles made it much easier. There were blaeberries all over the place on the slope (I ate a number, but unfortunately I had to push on), plus crowberries and cowberries too. I also saw frogs even near the top. After 45 minutes of increasingly steep climb, I was relieved to reach the ridge, just a short distance from the south top.

Càrn Dearg seen from its south east top

It was then an easy walk along the ridge towards the summit, where I could see a few people.

Càrn Dearg summit ahead

Càrn Dearg summit ahead

A group of 4 people left just before I arrived at the summit, but there was still a German woman dressed in hi-vis. We exchanged a few words before she headed off, leaving me to eat my sandwich and admire the view. Looking down at Gleann Ballach below, I could see the advantage of heading for the end of the ridge rather than carrying on through the bogs and peat hags on the normal route, which apparently ended up with a steep ascent in any case.

Gleann Ballach seen from Càrn Dearg summit, with the final hill a' Chailleach in the distance (far left)

Looking across Gleann Ballach to Meall na Ceardaich from Càrn Dearg summit

View north to some of the ridge to walk, from Càrn Dearg summit

The views in other directions (not photographed) were not as impressive as from other recent hills - much more rounded hills and generally somewhat rolling moorland. After leaving the summit, there was a nice sunlit view of Càrn Dearg summit from the north.

Looking back at Càrn Dearg summit

There was a small dip before reaching the next top, Càrn Bàn.

Càrn Dearg summit seen from Càrn Bàn

The next 2½ miles were fairly level, with minor ups and downs, following a line of old fence posts.

Lochan Uisge

Càrn Dearg east face, rising from Gleann Ballach

A lochan by the top of Càrn Ballach

Coming up the next small rise after Càrn Ballach, I saw a group of ptarmigan ahead. Seeing my approach, they started walking/running to the side, before eventually all flying off, at which point I counted 10 of them.

Group of ptarmigan

Ptarmigan close-ups

I caught up with the group of 4 people, who had driven from Angus that morning, and chatted before heading off ahead. I'd previously overtaken the German woman, who I was told was wearing sandals! It's a new experience to be the fastest walker on a hill round!

There was a somewhat bigger dip down through more bog before the climb to the top of Càrn Sgùlain. There were two cairns on top, so I wasn't sure where the summit was, but after visiting both, it turned out it was at the first one. There were again good views of the rolling moorland to the north (again not striking enough to bother photographing).

A' Chailleach seen from Càrn Sgùlain summit

After another bite to eat, I headed off back to the boggy col, from where I turned southwards across more boggy ground towards the last hill.

A' Chailleach gets closer

There was a bigger drop this time, and a steeper climb up to the top of a' Chailleach, but it only took 40 minutes top to top.

A' Chailleach summit

View west from a' Chailleach summit, with Càrn Dearg in the distance (centre) and the ridge walked (right)

Càrn Sgùlain seen from a' Chailleach summit

The descent was down a path, boggy in places (surely not!), to the south. The descent seemed to take quite a while, eventually reaching the Allt a' Chaorainn. This was a more substantial burn than the others, but I fairly soon managed to find somewhere to cross over stones. There was a muddy path along the other side, which eventually reached a track: finally the end of bog walking! Lower down, it passed the edge of a plantation, where I saw two red squirrels leaping about with white tails swishing. One stopped for a minute, so I was able to see that its entire tail was white, not just the underside.

I was soon at the car, tired after a long walk. The descent from the last summit had taken 1½ hours. I was very glad to have taken my waterproof boots, which had kept my feet dry, and after a lacing trick I first tried last week thankfully hadn't made my feet sore. I stopped off for a bar meal at the Duke of Gordon hotel in Dalwhinnie, and for once was back home in good time, at 9.30pm.

[Grisu]

Hi there,
here is the german woman who is walking in sandals and hi-vis
I love walking in sandals it's so much easier, it is good walking when your feet are strong enough. I would go barefeet if I could
I didn't expect to meet you again at the last cairn where all six of us got together for a short moment, you've been so far ahead of us!
I think that coming over the south top is a good alternative rather than going till the end of this boggy bealach. It looked quite relaxing the way you were coming up the ridge. I don't know if the ascent from the end of the bealach is less steep than the ascent to the south top, I found it quite steep, too.
It was a nice day which I enjoyed mainly, but the descent was quite tiring, right!
Last time I saw you was short before the track which was a real relief, finally.
We didn't talk much but it was nice to meet you and to see you and the other group ahead of me throughout the walk
Anke

What a nice approach, I thought, when I saw you coming this way.

[djarvie]

Hi there,
here is the german woman who is walking in sandals and hi-vis
I love walking in sandals it's so much easier, it is good walking when your feet are strong enough. I would go barefeet if I could
I didn't expect to meet you again at the last cairn where all six of us got together for a short moment, you've been so far ahead of us!
I think that coming over the south top is a good alternative rather than going till the end of this boggy bealach. It looked quite relaxing the way you were coming up the ridge. I don't know if the ascent from the end of the bealach is less steep than the ascent to the south top, I found it quite steep, too.
It was a nice day which I enjoyed mainly, but the descent was quite tiring, right!
Last time I saw you was short before the track which was a real relief, finally.
We didn't talk much but it was nice to meet you and to see you and the other group ahead of me throughout the walk
Anke

Hi Anke,
It's nice to hear from you again. I'm glad to hear that you know what you're doing wearing sandals - as I'm sure you are aware, it's not what serious hillwalkers usually wear, but if that works for you, then everyone to their own taste!

The ascent to the south top was very steep, but of course I don't know how it compares with the one you did. All I know is that looking down from the summit, I'd rather go the way I did to avoid what looks like a lot of bog .

I spent a while sitting in the sun eating sandwiches at the top of Carn Sgulain, which probably helped you catch up. And I'd agree that the descent seemed long - the track was very welcome and getting back to the car even more so. It was good to see everybody get back safely too.

Good luck in your future hillwalks.
David.