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Corbetts: Beinn Leoid.
Grahams: Meallan a' Chuail.
Date: 17/08/2023.
Distance: 16.5km.
Ascent: 1060m.
Time taken: 6 hours, 15 minutes.
Weather: Warm and breezy.
Midway through our week off, we decided to go away overnight. Originally I had fancied 2 or 3 nights on the Western Isles somewhere but in the end, midges, busy (and unreliable) ferries and general lethargy conspired to push us towards something a little easier to organise. The far north is a good substitute for the Islands though and Jackie had a voucher to spend in Cocoa Mountain, so this reduced version of a getaway seemed more appealing.
Our original plan had been to come up with a route on Foinaven to take advantage of the good forecast but again we downgraded to something a little simpler - Beinn Leoid. While not Foinaven I had good memories of this and its neighbour Meallan a' Chuail, and knew there were good paths in the area to ease some of the way.
It was after midday when we finally set off - something which highlighted why our more ambitious plans would have been difficult to stick to! There is a convenient parking area for 2-3 cars a couple of km west of Loch Merkland and the initial path towards Meall an Fheur Loch is really good.
Ben Hee 
At the start of the up 
Loch More and Arkle while the going was a little sweaty to begin with we soon caught the breeze and were cooled down. At the top of the pass south of Meall na Leitreach, we could see much of our route ahead. At the end of the path we stopped for lunch before doing the roughest part of the walk - the drop down into upper Gleann Dubh.
My recollection of this bit was that it wasn't too bad last time. Then again it was under soft snow so the actual ground conditions probably hadn't mattered that time - turns out this ground is quite rough. Fortunately there is only a km or so of descent required before the path up to Loch Dubh is reached. Again another good path if not quite as well maintained as the initial one.
Beinn Leoid from Loch Dubh 
Arkle and Foinaven across Loch Dubh We considered swimming in Loch Dubh but it looked a bit shallow and reedy so we gave it a miss. Instead it was time to follow the zigzags up to the col before heading west to Beinn Leoid. There is a bit of distance to cover here but the ground is easy with traces of a path most of the way. It was breezy on the summit but also a great spot to admire the rough ground between us and Quinaig. My ultimate plan for this hill would be to approach from Glendhu or Glencoul bothy but that would be for another time. Jackie had in fact been down to both of these earlier in the summer without me so I was doubly keen to visit them now!
Ben Stack and Arkle 
Meallan a Chuail from Beinn Leoid 
Ben More Assynt 
Arkle and Meallan Liath Choie Mhic Dhughaill 
Quinaig 
Canisp, Suilven and Quinaig 
Zoom to Quinaig After a short break we headed back the way we'd come before hitting the slopes of Meallan a' Chuail. This was shorter and steeper and any notion of a path soon disappeared. We made good time and soon were scrambling through the boulders and scree on the summit ridge.
Jackie descending Beinn Leoid 
Looking back to Beinn Leoid Again it was blowy on the summit. While the longer distance views are better from Beinn Leoid, this one has the nicer summit area, with a relatively narrow ridge flanked by lochans at different levels.
Meall an Fheur Loch from Meallan a Chuail 
Ben Stack, Arkle and Foinaven 
Ben Hee There were traces of path on the NW ridge and a couple of steep sections to descend. At one point an eagle took off from the ridge in front of us as we approached - gave us quite a fright as it was massive!
Ben Hee and Meall an Fheur Loch 
Meallan Liath Choire Mhic Dhughaill and Carn Tionail 
Back to Meallan a Chuail Near the foot of the ridge there were decisions to be made - should we swim in Loch Cul a' Mhill and go up Meall an Fheur Loch or should we call it a day and think about getting back to the car? We made the sensible decision to leave Meall an Fheur Loch for another time and think about having a swim and camping at Faraid Head. Even without the extra hill we'd be putting out tent up in the dusk. We made a fairly quick descent back to the car before 7pm.
Back near the head of the stalkers path On the way up to Durness we made a quick stop for a swim in Loch Stack. It was so nice here (and with sufficient breeze) that we almost put the tent up.
Arkle and Loch Stack 
Meallan Liath Choire Mhic Dhughaill from Loch Stack 
Evening swim Ultimately we decided to stick with the plan we had come up with originally and camp near Faraid Head. The road was fairly quiet and we made good time to Durness and Balnakeil. From here it is a 15-20 minute walk along the beach to a good camping spot above the cliffs - one we have used a couple of times before. Balnakeil was relatively quiet this evening compared to our previous post-Covid visit in August 2020 when it was like some kind of music festival. however you don't have to walk very far to get completely away from everyone which is why this is a favourite spot of ours.
Balnakeil beach 
Walking out towards Faraid Head 
Northern part of the beach We enjoyed the sunset and cooked dinner but after the sun had disappeared the wind went with it as well! We ate dinner being eaten alive by midges but fortunately the breeze re-appeared after 20 minutes or so and we were able to enjoy the rest of the evening.
Sun setting 
Almost gone