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Possible heatwave talk was in place for early September. As I get ready to wind the adventures down for the year, I pinged my pal a text seeing if he fancied another assault on the Mamores or nearby Aonachs in the Fort William area after exhilarating fun on the Ring of Steall recently.
To my delight, he said if it was that warm, what about taking his boat over to Arran and tackling Mullach Mor on Holy Isle and staying over. I sat bolt upright and replied ‘yeah, of course, let’s do that instead!’ I wrote back, trying to conceal my excitement. I had this down as kind of bucket list material. I’m a seasoned Arran traveller and aware a boat goes over, but to go over at your own leisure and take as long as we pleased had more appeal. Got to seize the moment with these sort of things.
Prep consisted of getting the tender inflated and the boat amply fuelled, not to mention having adequate food and drink(!) to keep our bodies going too.
- Heading across
We set off from Ardrossan marina around 4pm on the Wednesday. It was one of those rare days where the sea was so calm. In no rush whatsoever we stopped not too far from Holy Isle when we encountered the first of God’s creatures on out travels, a trio of dolphins. I managed to secure a quick but poor photo of them before waiting patiently - and giving up - on seeing them again.
- Dolphins
I cracked open another can while my friend had an iced coffee from the cool bag and chilled for some time. We knew the bars and restaurants were open for a good bit so made the most of the sun and had a good survey at the challenge that lay ahead of us the next day.
- East face
- North face
We moored just off Lamlash Bay and got ready to head ashore. A couple of paddleboarders passed, I asked if they’d been to Holy Isle on them, to which I was surprised that they said yes!
- Tender
The tender was released into the water and a change of clothes took place. I was now bedecked with a lifejacket, swimming shorts, a daypack with a towel and a pair of jesus boots for the short paddle. I never knew how well the boat would react and soaking shoes/clothes just did not appeal. The crossing went great with no chop, no water managed to spill in either, sturdy and reliable it was.
- Drift Inn
We hung a right and done a well familiar road for me to the Drift Inn and ordered a drink on arrival. It was disappointing to learn all tables were fully booked for the night, but after calling ahead, we managed to book dinner at the Pierhead Tavern (PHT).
We sat outside and managed to secure a table on this busy evening and had drinks before moving on to the PHT for our Last Supper before our day out tomorrow. I had fish & chips while Jordan opted for seabass.
- The Last Supper
I had a taste for the pints and we then headed along to Lamlash Bay Hotel for a nightcap.
Time was getting on and we were now overwhelmed by nightfall as we headed to make the short crossing back to the boat. I had a headlamp in my backpack and also had a torch too as we launched the tender and paddled and weaved our way through the boats to where we were moored.
- Rowing back
It was a nice breeze but I put on a fleece and that helped as we sat out in what was forecasted 3mph winds and played some tunes.
- Back at boat
We gazed to the heavens and despite having optimal conditions being clear and devoid of most urban pollution being out in the open, it was hard to capture the starry sky with our phone camera. I pointed out Ursa Major and Ursa Minor in the constellations and asked Jordan to pick out the northern star. It’s hard to imagine how sailors navigated with stars and very little else centuries ago compared to technology nowadays.
- Let there be light…
After a night in the cabin, we got up back of 7 and stuck the kettle on and started getting ready for the short crossing. Packing my daybag, getting changed, sending messages etc while Jordan kindly made the porridge I supplied. Plenty suncream after that and we were on our way. Having emailed the island days in advance, we were asked to not use the first third of the pier.
We docked at the pier and spoke to a swimmer who said a lot of lions manes jellyfish were out and about. He had swam from Lamlash at times too like the keen paddleboarders we spoke to the previous day. We headed up and had a wee look at the nearby area before starting the walk up to Mullach Mor.
- The start
A location pillar pointed that we were 1.7km to Mullach Mor. It had plenty of waymarkers on the route too, and on a dry clear day, it would be difficult to go wrong. We set off and made our way up to the minor top. We kept looking back and enjoyed the views of the four corbetts of Arran and Lamlash bay behind us. Jordan remarked there wouldn’t be very square metres I haven’t stood on in the higher parts which I suppose is true, although the A’chir ridge still eludes me!
- Arran mountains
It wasn’t long until we were at the shattered cairn at Mullach Beag where we had a brief rest and recharge.
- Mullach Mor
The summit of Mullach Mor lay ahead and it didn’t take much time to descend into the wee nook and start climbing uphill again to Mullach Mor’s summit. I believe it is a Tibetan prayer flag on the trig pillar.
It was now lunch time proper and we sat on the rocks near the trig pillar and had lunch. The coolbox done well for keeping the sandwiches fresh from the previous day and shortly after, I was surprised to see a C-17 flying below us. I can only imagine it had just taken off from Prestwick Airport and continued to head NW as it continued along Brodick bay area. Although, it never seemed to gain any height as we looked down on it from 1030ft above sea level.
- C-17
The views of Lamlash and Whiting Bay from the top were something else.
- I’m on the, top of the world
- …looking, down on creation
It was time to get moving again.
- Heading down
Downhill required a hand at times for balance at the short easy downclimb sections.
- Steep in places coming down
We kept on the path for the roped off sections and there was crevasse warnings at either side of this section.
We could also pick out some equine species in the distance, unbeknown to us at the time, it was the Eriskay ponies.
- Eriskay ponies
We were going to the Pillar Rock lighthouse, a landmark we can see from the Ayrshire coastline back home.
We got there and I was happy to look on from nearby, Jordan reckoned it warranted a closer look. ‘Mate there’s a loo here, complete with toilet roll’ he roared in Eureka fashion. I sat and chilled while he enjoyed a 20minute comfort break. Just as well the weather was good!
- One of Jordan’s pics - keeping edgy!
So on we went retracing our steps a bit before looping round the second half of the island. Some of the retreats were well built into the landscape and the signs were asking you to respect their privacy.
Beyond that there was another warning on a gate too of a Tibetan retreat.
We stumbled upon what I thought at the time was St Molaise’s cave. We used the torch from our phones and walked in as it goes in for a fair bit.
Before heading back out and making our way past the majestic artwork on the rocks. The green tara one in particular had a 3D effect to it with the way it had been sculpted into the rock.
- Green Tara
We then past St Molaise’s cave and we had a quick explore there too. A depiction of St Molaise and more information greet you at the entrance.
Back on the coastal path and we were greeted by some saanen goat shortly after on the path. We caught up with a walker and he told us it was rutting season for them too at this time of year.
Before long, we were at the boathouse where we were going to buy a drink. It didn’t appear to be open on this occasion. We headed on to the pier nearby where it was time to make our exodus from holy isle.
We cruised in a general 60° bearing back to Ardrossan. It was still ‘taps aff’ weather as we unloaded and rinsed the boat back down at the marina. It was well worth taking a day off work for. If you like hillwalking with some differences along the way, Mullach Mor on Holy Isle is well worthy of consideration.
