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Another solo weekend. Casting around for where to go, weather seemed to be better away from the West, so my eye settled on a clutch of 5 Grahams® up on the west side of Loch Ness. I headed up on Thursday afternoon and arrived at Alltsigh just before 4pm. Time enough to walk in and have an early camp - my only concern was whether there would be any suitable spots to pitch in soggy tussocky ground.
1 & 2. Glas-bheinn Mhor and Meall Fuar-mhonaidh. (18k 864m asc)
Two hyphenated hills which we've previously done using a circuit that uses the hydro track in then loops around the north end of Fuar-mhonaidh. This time I decided that it would be a lot easier to join them to the south of Loch nam Breac Dearga and I'm pleased to report that is indeed the case. There's parking for 4-5 cars at the start of the track, or alternatively at the Hostel across the road. Up through the trees on what is a bit of the Great Glen Way then a left turn through a metal gate and another reasonably good path along the side of the Allt. I was looking for somewhere to pitch and I found a nice grassy spot just off to the north of the track near the dam. There were also good looking spots beside the river. Pitched, fed and off for a fairly good night's sleep. Not a sound other than the odd night-bird.
6454F061-0DA2-4BA2-8FB1-F7A7BC48B9C4_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
578F8C00-1CB7-40B7-B05A-3B96588FFADB_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Fuar-mhonaidh
734644AD-FF1A-4425-9553-CDE1A1FB4D1B_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Rain was forecast for bits of today - light in the morning then heavy for a time around 2pm. Somewhat miraculously I managed to avoid it all day, even though I could see it falling nearby. I left the tent standing and set off up the rough slopes of Glas-bheinn first, avoiding the deeper peat hags. Steady going, nothing too challenging for the early part of the day. Good views over to Loch Ness from the top, some scarves of cloud lying over the adjacent hills. I came off to the SE, avoiding one craggy outcrop and heading for the southern shore of the loch before heading steeply up the flank of Fuar-mhonaidh, using deer tracks and heather to assist. A rugged little section just before the very top. Descent back towards the track to the tent (which I haven't shown on the map) and back to the track for a brisk walk back to the car. Just in nice time for lunch - I sat and ate my sandwich and made coffee whilst I watched a couple of tourists in a Fiat 500 try to drive up the track, past the "no unauthorised vehicles" sign before being turned back by a locked gate.
The route up to Glas-bheinn
D88BC1A5-4BB4-4514-A9CD-0FBACEA3AEE1_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Towards Loch Ness
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Al, on Flickr
2BCC5490-79FE-466E-A690-154D2A033569_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Fuar-mhonaidh from Glas-bheinn
9B4AF8F5-C903-490B-99ED-DC479E533A0D_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
41DBC31C-5FAB-42FB-A581-AFA8A1E08367_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Glas-bheinn mhor
41E1B781-17AA-416E-AC8C-DFB75C8F2ECE_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
821E0FB4-DF92-43FB-8919-034F4FD48B48_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
3 & 4 - Meall a'Chrathaich and Càrn Mhic an Tosich (27k 927m asc)
I drove along to Bhlairidh, parked on the grassy verge just after the bridge/crash barrier and got my kit together. I'd walk in today, do one or - if I felt fit enough - both the hills and walk out tomorrow. Again I wasn't all that optimistic about camping in what is a wind farm after all, with the turmoil to the terrain that causes, but I remembered we'd found somewhere "almost suitable" to camp once before up here.
Past the houses and onto the wind farm track, made for rapid progress. I intended to camp up by the higher dam, which is at the split of the route between the two hills and hence ideal for my purposes. Once again didn't meet a soul. Got to the upper dam about 3pm and considered where to pitch - it was windy and forecast to get windier, so I hoped I'd have enough shelter where I chose to set up. Left the stuff inside the tent and set off for Meall a'Chrathaich first, it being the easier option. It's almost entirely accessed on wind farm track, with only the last half km up to the actual summit being on heather. The turbines had all been still and silent, despite there being a stiff breeze, but as I walked past one there was a clang and a creak and it started to turn, very very slowly. Then the others began turning slowly too. All a bit creepy, like mechanical creatures coming to life...From the summit I could see rain over to the north west - Allison was holidaying in a cottage in Tomich, less than 5 miles away as the crow flies, although much further by road. I imagined she was getting rained upon, as that's usually her holiday weather type...
Lower dam
B57067F7-604E-4328-A52E-1D8A27198677_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Upper dam
29041947-8C8A-4F13-867B-12A1B2766119_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Chrathaidh
9CB8D574-0DC2-47C6-8C69-B14BA8F540F0_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Windfarm track almost to the summit
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Al, on Flickr
87793A0E-2289-4F7E-BC08-B78E576079AD_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Mhic an Tosich off in the distance...can I be bothered?
8EF88F78-B3B4-4E5E-AB76-527B486E8CBA_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Mhic an Tosich
00B0D048-FC8C-4007-88AA-2C53F9CA02D6_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Back along the track to the tent. It was after 5pm now and I'd walked quite far today - would I do the other hill or not? It was about 6k return without any of the nice track...come on, get it over with... There's a deer fence, which wasn't around when we first did the combo back in 2016. However there is a gate a little down the track (to the south) which I made use of, finding a soggy ATV track leading from it, which actually went a long way towards Mhic an Tosich, skirting the southern side of Carn na Caorach. There are a lot of new trees planted at the western end of this track, where the ATV track peters out, but follow the fence line north for a short way and another gate appears! From there it's only a short walk and maybe 100m ascent to the summit. Good views back over the wind farm. I returned by much the same route and reached the tent just gone 7pm. The wid was chilly by now and I hastened inside for my Huel and a read of my book.
CD352C27-B0D4-47C4-A64E-7A1D1EE57484_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
55D1B16E-BD45-4A78-8A0C-E20D567C5A38_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Chrathaidh and the windfarm
BB83A236-264B-4AF2-A5E9-9031260368F9_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Another quiet night, although a cold one - the wind was strong for a few hours, battering the side of the tent into my head then dropping off to nothing. There was ice on the outside of the tent in the morning - after last week's chilly overnighter, I'd taken the precaution of packing my winter bag, so was lovely and toasty despite the chill weather. It was a lovely morning however, full sun in the sky. The spot I'd chosen to pitch in was still shadowed from the warm sun by the lip of a bank, whereas the spot I'd rejected was basking in golden warmth. So I had a wet tent to try and dry off.
Packing up, I was late away, just after 9am - unusual for me when I'm on my own. Passed a woman out for a walk on the lower section of the track - she obviously lived locally as she said "no-one ever comes here" and looked at me as if I were some kind of dangerous animal.
5. Càrn a'Chaochain (21k 840m asc)
I'd been a bit ambitious with this one - Carn a'Chaochain is usually approached from Cougie in the north, where there's a good track in for much of it, shorter route too. But that would mean driving all the way round to Cougie - miles and miles, and it's a rather dreadful road in the latter section after Pladda Falls, from memory. So I 'd had a look to see if it was possible to do it from the south. I also wanted to add on the Simm of Meall Odhar - I've only got a few Simms remaining in this area. I'd come up with something that used a combination of forest track and hydro track, with a great deal of pathlessness in the middle. I did worry about stalking going on here, as I was definitely going to be "off piste" - a worry I hadn't had on the previous hills given the proximity of wind farms and all.
Was surprised by just how many houses there are along the little road off the A887. Various parking options near where my route started - there's a rag-tag collection of vehicles and farm storage stuff in an open area, then cleared forestry. My route was one of those dotted lines that only appears on larger map types and I wasn't sure where it actually started - or, lets face it, if it actually existed. I noticed numerous deer tracks coming through a broken bit of fencing and thought I'd try there - big mistake! This led me to extraction tracks of a steadily deteriorating nature, with deep dark pools alongside and seemed to be taking me in the wrong direction too...I saw an outcrop up ahead which was on the map, and the "track" was marked as going past that...we'll see. My main fear was of plodding on for a while then coming up against an impenetrable wall of trees and having to return to the beginning. But yes, there was indeed something...deer used it at least. I found that it was a perfectly serviceable track keeping near the fence line, without having to struggle through branches.
Start of the route
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Al, on Flickr
Hmmm
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Al, on Flickr
Could that be the path?
BFF6FDC1-A2DF-41D0-B9EA-DDEB2B20505D_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
0AC3AEBA-C5EA-4C73-8313-74F59DC8D60E_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
6190E221-602F-4332-899C-B0C8D90EC7F1_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
I continued like this for a while, wondering when the last person came up this way. After a time the path came to the banks of the Allt na Muic, the fence broken here. I continued along the riverside, nice camping spots here if you were interested - you know my love of river-meadow camp spots. I stopped for lunch in the sunshine, considering my options. I had planned to continue "round the corner" and follow the Allt Tarsuinn for a bit then make my way up the south slopes of Chaochain, but I could save some distance by cutting that corner off. Ground was a bit squelchy, the river crossings easy on stones, and soon I was making my laborious way up the slopes towards the summit. Saw a few stags who vamoosed when they caught sight of me.
30E53487-712F-4561-A416-64251ABA1DC4_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
2B8777CC-355A-4B0F-AAD5-761911C5BCC4_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
I wasn't sure if this was A'Chrailaig or Ceathreamnahan - probably the latter
835BA079-1743-483B-AA7E-5C4D766D65CF_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Carn a'Chaochain is one of those hills that the trig column is on the "wrong" summit - if you arrive from Cougie like any normal person, you'll be annoyed by having to walk about half a mile to the actual summit (or even more annoyed if you claim the trig column and retreat then only later realise you were 2m too low) But coming in from the south, one can go directly to the "right" summit. The views are great - the southern Munro Tops stretching out like long hilly fingers from Mam Sodhail - how well I remember going out and back to the likes of Sgurr na Lapaich along these ridges. Today's task was now to head off to the west and climb the rounded lump of Meall Odhar. The descent was initially on short cropped grass, lovely, then tussocks and hidden streams. And a drop to 440m bealach, meaning a re-ascent of 170m!! For a Simm! Just what I wanted.
The gradient was not punishing, however, and I stood on top of the Simm looking east at the route I'd be taking out...all bog/hag/tussock.
9D563493-8AD2-49E6-9B88-00E2AFCAF044_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
69783457-79C2-4CD7-8BF3-89C6A9BEED22_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
The many fingers of Mam Sodhail
47B3D4E6-31F3-4B2B-93D1-3C25A8D93665_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Meall Odhar
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Al, on Flickr
B5B46C37-E1D1-495F-B7A4-38F36B6A4A27_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
The way out - round to the right of that hill
A8DC93FB-5923-4917-BB2F-451226C3B249_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
It was a bit of a challenge, I'll be honest. I think this is a purist's route up Chaochain...a pure mentalist's that is
It's about 5k over rough stuff before you get anywhere near the hydro track on the way out, and there's even another deer-fenced enclosure to navigate before the track is reached - fortunately with gates accessible. I was pleased to meet the hard track after all the rough stuff, although it had been quite a pleasant day out all in all. The track took me down to a farm, then a kilometre or so along the road, back to the car. A solitary cow was standing roadside, munching disconsolately. I wondered why it was away from its kind in the large adjacent field...until I saw it wasn't a cow at all, but a rather large bull who was clearly unimpressed with being excluded from the field where all his wifelets were. He brought his head up as I got closer and fixed be a baleful glare. I kept to the other side of the (narrow) road and whistled a happy tune....after I got past I kept thinking I heard hoofs behind me...he was quite a specimen. But I did make the car untossed and considered my options.
Chaochain
67E56B66-3804-4185-B06A-4494B4EF1203_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
EEC111CC-CE9B-450C-AD04-5E3631DEB243_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
5150B260-914D-4FB9-A1FE-FAD7707425AA_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
The forecast for Sunday was dreadful for everywhere it seemed, with wall-to-wall rain and wind. I was tempted to head along the Loch Arkaig road and do the two Grahams® Meall Blair and Sgurr Coinich. However I've a couple other hills to do along there and it would make a weekend sometime to do all four. Maybe the two at Glencoe? Meall Mor and Sgurr a'Choise? But then...where to camp overnight? I settled on Stob a'Ghrianain/Druim Fada in Glen Loy partly as it was a straightforward hill and partly as I knew a place to camp nearby. I drove down the road, still in good weather and arrived at my selected spot just as dusk was falling. Had a wet tent to put up, with little chance of it drying now, although I had been able to dry off the outside of my sleeping bag by leaving it spead out in the car while I was up the hills today. A nice wee spot, really quiet save for the plashing of the river. Have seen otters here in the past, but not tonight. Frustratingly I didn't get to sleep at all.
557181B6-2E22-4C70-BAD6-2F79C07A451A_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
6. Stob a'Ghrianain (9k, 700m asc)
Morning started off with a dry spell to get the tent packed away. Low cloud over the hilltops - Beinn Bhan across the glen was anonymous. Parked at the start of the route, where there's parking for several cars. Have been this way twice before, it's a way marked route through the trees then a turn off to the right on a soggier path into Coire an Lightuinn. An ATV track wends towards the Allt and there's a plank bridge to cross over. My memory was of the ATV track continuing all the way to the summit, but that was wishful thinking as it disappears around 450-500m. The rain, which had been drizzle so far got steadily heavier as I gained height, making it a miserable and driech experience. My light waterproof jacket failed to exclude the rain so I was getting wet and a bit cold too. Time to resurrect the Paramo Alta jacket now, I think.
Beinn Bhan
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Al, on Flickr
D06A04A2-E65D-40C3-91F7-37B705C2970B_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
These would be eaten later
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Al, on Flickr
Into the coire
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Al, on Flickr
87D4B06B-B5A6-408F-A90C-B6A866EF1ADB_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Once you get onto the nose of this hill proper there's a succession of false summits and I felt like a weasel on an Escher staircase, , putting in maximum effort but never getting any nearer to the top. At last the gradient flattens out and I knew I was getting near the summit. Past a lochan, a rocky outcrop and then the cairn. Actually this is also another of those hills with the trig in the "wrong" place - but here the trig is another couple of kms away at the west end of the ridge, and 30m lower. Having previously experienced the alternatives from here - continue along the full ridge or return in a southernly arc around the coire - I felt no need to do anything other than return the way I'd come up given the dreary conditions. I'd spotted some chanterelle mushrooms in the woods on my way up and stopped to harvest them on the descent. I've never had the confidence to pick wild mushrooms before, but we'd found some a couple weeks back which Allison had identified and taken away, so I reckoned it wold be ok. Back to the car with a hat full of fungi, and a wet and windy drive home.
AC6D395D-B728-4B38-80AE-042C8B431F8F_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
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Al, on Flickr
EE47ABF1-4AE6-4D82-9B5F-B1E960D44B87_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
6FB7E78C-74CB-4099-9C26-D411B01F377D_1_201_a by
Al, on Flickr
Mushrooms were cleaned and cooked as a chanterelle and sweetcorn risotto which was very good indeed. Then back out into the maelstrom for a gig at the Hug & Pint - Anna Erhard.
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Al, on Flickr
https://youtu.be/Rgnlt9rKDEw?si=lzqo1ZYBo0LMieGe