free to be able to rate and comment on reports (as well as access 1:25000 mapping).
I'd had my eye on the western Munros of Glen Affric for a long time, but had never managed to make it happen. I'd done An Socach on a long day walk in 2019 and thought then the other two looked very doable from Alltbeithe. Then covid struck and hostels weren't an option and by the time they were an option it still didn't happen. All that changed when the forecast looked fine for 16th Sept and I sent a Whatsapp to Julie saying "What about it?". She in her customary enthusiasm for an adventure replied "Let's do it" and began sorting her camping stuff to take her spaniel on his first camping trip.
I'd originally thought we'd both stay at the hostel but the adventure juices started flowing and I dug out the son's 2 man tent, my sleeping bag and after much deliberation over the benefits of comfort over lightness bought a sleeping mat and a pouch of dehydrated chicken and fried rice which at £7.79 ought to be gourmet food as well as very light to carry! I borrowed son in law's large rucksack but it wasn't the right fit for me and was uncomfortable so made do with Pete's day rucksack which is larger than mine and managed to fit everything into it bar the sleeping bag. The weight was fine but we couldn't find a way to reliably attach sleeping bag to outside of rucksack. I didn't want to risk it falling off half way along Loch Affric so phoned the hostel on the remote chance there was a free bunk. There was! So I didn't need to take a tent or sleeping mat and could fit everything else in.
The next thing to figure out was where to park. Notices have appeared at the end of road car park saying no overnight parking so the plan was to park at Chisholme Bridge, adding 1.5km to our 14km walk in. But when we arrived at the off road car park at Chisholme Bridge there was a sign saying no overnight parking. If we were going to risk a ticket for leaving the car overnight we might as well be at the end of road car park. We wondered if the sign is there more to discourage campervans from setting up camp, rather than to deter hill walkers. We paid for the parking and took the risk.
Julie and Seamus as we left the car park
Beach at west end of Loch Affric
Loch an Fheadain on way to Alltbeithe
River Affric
We started walking at 3.40 and the walk in was very pleasant with only brief midge interaction near the bothy, which was okay as long as we kept moving. About 40 minutes from Alltbeithe a smirr of rain had us donning waterproofs and after first spotting the hostel it seemed to take longer than expected to reach it. We arrived around 7.15 although it felt later due to poor light with the rain.
I said to Julie I'd dump my stuff and come with her to find a suitable camping spot. I got a very warm welcome from Mark the warden who explained about the boots off rule in the main building and that I was in dormitory 3 in the hut behind. The more concerning information was that there was no toilet attached to the hut behind and to go in the night would require waterproof and boots on and a torch to find your way to reach it. I made a mental note not to drink too much.
Julie chose a grassy area near the river to pitch her tent. I passed on Mark's invitation to herself and Seamus to come and join us, which once she was sorted she did. Seamus was a big hit with everyone and the small print stating dogs aren't allowed inside the hostel clearly isn't taken all that seriously.
Julie camped in peaceful spot by the river (J's photo)
I slept in the hut behind the hostel (J's photo)
I hadn't relished the thought of going solo in a dormitory of strangers, but it was no problem. When I arrived all the lower bunks had been taken but when a young lass saw me looking she immediately moved her stuff to the upper bunk so I could have the lower one. Gali was a 22 year old Israeli from Tel Aviv, just finished national service and in Scotland to walk the Affric Kintail Way, with hills thrown in if she felt like it. She carried a sketch book with her and was busy sketching as we talked. A lovely girl and a pleasure to meet.
Gali from Tel Aviv
Got chatting to two gents who'd been at school in London together, lost contact then reconnected to climb hills. One of them, a forester from the Midlands, described his experience arriving in Achnasheen at midnight and, not knowing in the dark where to pitch his tent, spent the night in the phone box! His walking pal was a military man who, when I mentioned my granny collecting sphagnum moss to use for dressings in WW1, told me sphagnum moss has antiseptic properties, so in pre-antibiotic times really did help wounds to heal.
The hostel tap water came from the burn and hadn't quite passed the test for drinking water. So all drinking water had to be boiled which I did before bed and waited for it to cool to go into my playpus for the next day. In the end I carried too much but you never know how much you'll need.
I was amazed by how quiet the dorm was and on that first night you could have heard a plastic spoon drop. I know that because despite a comfortable mattress and warm sleeping bag I only slept a few hours out of sheer excitement that the next day we were off to climb Mullach na Dhearagain and Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, hills I'd been thinking I might never get to.
Setting off next morning
The path from the back of the hostel is good. It first heads east to cross the Allt na Faing then north through a gate in the deer fence. Between that gate and the second gate there's a noticeable increase of young trees which have either seeded themselves or been planted there.
I took the next photo with my phone to send to Pete and the family as soon as I had a signal. I didn't notice the bird of prey hovering until my son Doug commented on it. I don't know if it's an eagle or buzzard but the location would incline me more to eagle.
A raptor I didn't see
Second gate
After the second gate we reached Coire na Cloiche and a soggy area which we avoided by walking round it to the left. On our return it had dried just enough for us to walk straight across. Or more likely we were so done in by that stage we weren't so bothered if we got wet feet.
We reached the ridge without fanfare, took a quick photo of the view on the other side and turned west along a path that disconcertingly went uphill. It felt wrong to be going up when we knew very soon we'd be going down!
Gleann a' Choilich
We were looking for what could pass for a small stream bed, but almost walked past it. I took a photo to show others how stream bedlike it does look. The next part of the route was unpleasant, on a steep sponge-like slope that held on to too much water and being north-facing isn't likely to dry out. Added to that it had rained in the night. A sit down would leave you soaked and a slip could start a slide that would be difficult to stop.
We took it slowly and got down without incident. The floor of the corrie was easily crossed before heading NW up much drier slopes to reach the Bealach nan Daoine.
Start of steep wet descent
Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan in centre with Bealach nan Daoine lower down to the right
Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan from Bealach nan Daoine
View north from bealach
Reaching the ridge put a new spring in our step. Walking along a ridge with views on either side is in my experience one of the most enjoyable kinds of hill walking.
Path ascending the knobbly top of Carn na Con Dhu
It's pure joy on a clear day to see the familiar shapes of hills once climbed. Glen Affric hills are so well placed for seeing layer after layer of mountain ranges in every direction. What a privilege to be here!
Zoomed to Torridon
The two guys I'd been chatting to about sphagnum moss and phone boxes were climbing Mam Sodhail and Carn Eighe and from what we could see would be in clag at the summits. They later conformed this was the case, but it had cleared by their return from Beinn Fhionnlaidh.
Mam Sodhail & Carn Eige capped with cloud and start of jumbled boulders
We followed a path that took us through the northern edge of the jumbled boulders and I managed to get myself stuck between jaggy rocks, briefly thinking I couldn't go forward and couldn't go back. So is this what it means to be cragfast? No it wasn't that bad, although I did think a wrong move could do me a mischief! The sad reality is that (with the possible exception of Angela Rippon) one's 75 year old joints aren't as flexible as they once were. I told myself to relax and reverse myself into a better position.... and then I was out of it. But it had shaken me enough to admit to a couple who happened along a few minutes later (and who'd been in dorm 3 the night before) I'd got myself stuck in the rocks and wondered about not following the path into more rocks ahead, but knew that it's best to keep to the path. The girl said sticking to the top of the ridge was best, as long as you didn't fall off the side. That was reassuring then.
Another knobbly top before descending to Bealach na Con Dhu
Mullach na Dheiragain now visible
What was different about this walk was the number of people we met who had stayed overnight at the hostel. It gave a new camaraderie to the occasion with much fuss being made of Seamus. One person we met who hadn't spent the night at the hostel was Grant who had walked in from Glenshiel and was climbing all the Tops. I saw him later at the hostel and he'd reached all his targets but had run out of water and said no matter how much he drank now he still felt thirsty. If you ever see this Grant it was great to meet you and we're looking forward to reading your report!
Grant on his way to SNC and tops
The last part of the way up to the MND summit was by a wide grassy slope and before we knew it we were on what is regarded as one of the least accessible summits in Britain. It didn't feel like that, being one of the more crowded summits I've been to (barring Ben Nevis!).
Mullach na Dheiragain summit 982 metres
It's always magical to have a view of Skye.
Zoomed to Skye Cuillin
It was windy so we dropped down a bit to find a sheltered spot for lunch. Then it was simply a case of reversing the route and heading for Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan. This time at the boulder jumble we took a different path through the middle, which was still a bit tricky but I didn't get stuck.
Ridge narrows here
A point came from where Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan looked dauntingly steep and we might have felt tempted to leave it out if the other return option hadn't been so unpleasantly wet! It's good that we weren't tempted as we'd have missed the climax of the day and, as is often the case, it wasn't as steep as it looked with a narrow path winding all the way up to the summit.
Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan
View back along the ridge from about half way up
A tired, windswept summit selfie at 1151 metres
We were over the moon to be there. The views from the top made all the effort worth it. The sun had disappeared behind thick cloud but, despite that, visibility was still good.
Zoomed north from SNC summit
NW and out to sea
South to Ben Nevis right of centre. Nearer view is A'Chralaig left, Ciste Dubh far right
We had some more food and started the descent, which to start with was encouragingly grassy and gentle, although it didn't stay like that.
Start of the SE ridge
Looking down to where we crossed over in the morning I could hear the stags roaring. Earlier I wasn't hearing them and concluded that being September it was still too early. But there they were, letting their voices be heard at the start of the rut. It's such an evocative sound.
Wet area crossed earlier
There were several undulations and minor summits to cross and my left thigh was complaining. I had maybe strained it repeatedly side stepping down the wet slope in the morning when I had tended to lead with my left leg.
Cairn on minor summit
My heart sank when I saw another top to be climbed but it had to be done. Julie had considered going on to include An Socach while I made my way slowly down to the hostel but even she was feeling she'd had enough and decided to leave it for another day, possibly using her bike. I urged her to go on ahead but she stuck with me until we were through the first deer fence after which I took my time hobbling down the path.
Another top to climb
I was looking forward to a shower at the hostel but one of the guys said it was cold water only. Water is heated by the stove in the kitchen and how much is available depends on how much has been used. That was okay, I got myself cleaned up with wet wipes! Then it was time for my Summit to Eat chicken and fried rice which I have to say was the best dehydrated food I've ever eaten. That was followed by a fruit smoothie and a mug of hot chocolate and I was ready to turn in. Julie was too tired for socialising so she and Seamus didn't join us, and several people asked "Where's Seamus?".
I was first in my bunk and thought I'd have no problem sleeping. Everyone who came in after me was very quiet and the main light went out. Then the gent in the bunk opposite started snoring and it was the loudest snoring I've ever heard. It wasn't his fault of course and the rest of us just had to endure it. I must have fallen asleep about 4.00 and when I woke at 5.15 he was still snoring.
Julie was along at 8.00 with Seumus to make up for his non appearance the night before. We weren't in any great hurry so I had a coffee and an egg roll and we took our leave about 8.30. The pain in my thigh was now only a dull ache and there was no problem walking the 14km back to the car. It was a beautiful morning with trails of mist hugging the floor of the glen, a fitting ending to a memorable trip.
Farewell to Alltbeithe
