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The Great Glen Way, 29/04/23 - 02/05/23After successfully completing the West Highland Way in 2022, I decided to tackle another one of Scotland's Great Trails, this time going for the Great Glen Way, hiking it before peak midge season. I decided that by the end of April the weather would be nice enough for the hike and that it wouldn't be too cold at night in the tent.
I planned to do the walk over 4 days, with 2 nights of camping and one night in a hostel.
The first stage of the journey involved traveling by bus at from Edinburgh at 0630, arriving into Glasgow at 0756. I then caught the train departing Glasgow at 0821 and arriving into Fort William at 1208. The train journey via the West Highland Line is often heralded as one of the must scenic in Britain, unfortunately for me it was a misty and overcast day with fairly low visibility. On the train I was worrying that my pack was too heavy and that the daily distances were going to be too long but I settled down and soon the dread turned into excitement as we travelled north, passing some of the most remote stations on the network - including the famous Corrour station that is featured in Trainspotting "It's sh*te being Scottish! We're the lowest of the low!"
- Corrour station from the train
After arriving in Fort William it was time to get going, the goal was to reach Laggan Lochs, a distance of roughly 23.3 miles or so. Upon arriving at Corpach I paid £10 for the key that grants access to the Trailblazer facilities that are available during some of the route. I looked forward to a shower that night at Laggan. The first day passed fairly uneventfully, I was making good progress taking in the sites. The famous ship wreck, Neptune's Staircase and Loch Lochy were all passed and admired. I found the walking here very easy due to the path, although perhaps in some places it can become a bit monotonous.
- Obligatory shipwreck photo
There are some fantastic houses along this stretch of the trail, and it's worth visiting St. Ciaran's Church, although it is spooky being able to enter the church alone with nobody else around!
- Still waters
Finally I made it to Laggan Lochs at 2046 after walking 39.11km, I left Fort William at 12:37. I hadn't even set my tent up before a local man approached me to ask about my hike etc. He said he has a campervan and regularly stays at Laggan, he also told me to avoid the Eagle Barge Inn for reasons I won't go into - this was very disappointing as I couldn't wait to get a pint and a nice meal. After pitching my tent I then went to use the Trailblazer facilities... and discovered somebody had snapped a key in the lock! Not an ideal end to the first day.
Day 2 was to see me hiking from Laggan to the Lochside Hostel at Alltsigh a distance of 24.4 miles. This day was nothing short of gruelling. My Apple Watch ran out of battery 25km into the day, just outside of Fort Augustus so I'm not sure how far I travelled this in total. I had planned to check into the hostel at 1900 and didn't end up arriving until around 2300 with extremely sore feet and knees. I did stop at the Invergarry Hotel, Fort Augustus and Invermoriston which definitely slowed me down, but I kept telling myself I was on holiday so why not
I took the high route out of Fort Augustus which was well worth it. Incredible views.
- High route out of Fort Augustus
I did take the low route out of Invermoriston, partly because I was going to have to cut down halfway in order to reach the hostel in Alltsigh and secondly because I was cooked by this stage. It was also beginning to get dark as well. By the time I arrived at the hostel I had been walking in the dark forest for what seemed an eternity. It was such a relief to get into the hostel (which was very busy!) and get a nice shower, some grub and to charge my devices. The downside being the room was shared and I had a German lady who was a real window rattler, snoring all night from the second she went to bed
Day 3 began with very sore feet. I was planning to hike to Loch Laide and wild camp. This day went fairly quickly. I did perhaps against my better judgement make a pit stop at the Abriachan Cafe Campsite after reading the endless signs advertising their cakes. I found the place a bit bizarre and was put off by the behaviour of the lady who came to serve me. Firstly I was the only person there and secondly when I asked how much it would cost (I had read about people being ripped off) she told me she just served the food and didn't deal with the bills!? I'd heard enough by this stage so kindly declined and proceeded to walk further on the route, eventually finding a suitable camping spot just off the road a lot further along the trail then Loch Laide. At one stage I questioned if I would be better just continuing onto Inverness and finishing the hike. Day 3 ended up being 31.29km, beginning at 1013 and finishing at 1906.
Day 4, the final day. I awoke and had breakfast before packing my kit up and hitting the road. My bus back from Inverness to Edinburgh was booked for 1725. With the end in sight I ate up the tarmac (a large stretch of this section is road) and was on my way. Admittedly the end stage walking through rural Inverness is not very exciting but the sun was shining so it wasn't too bad. By this time I had swapped my hiking shoes for flip flops as my feet were knackered. I arrived into Inverness at 1245, and set off from my camping spot at 0906. The distance walked was 16.90km. That was it! I'd successfully completed by second long distance trail.
With a few hours to kill I paid £5 to use the shower at the bus station then went to Wetherspoons for some grub before exploring Inverness, eventually catching the bus home.
Highly enjoyable trail, even if a bit samey in parts.
- Well earned beer!
Instagram: Robbiemo10
