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I know where Chris Packham is coming from saying Glencoe is "sad and broken" but from his perspective the same could be said about most of the Highlands, which 5000 years ago was covered by the Caledonian pine forest. We are where we are now due to human management of the land which has steadily chipped away at the existence of native trees and people in the glens in favour of sheep and deer. It's also true that we enjoy views now we could never have seen 5000 years ago, because trees are taller than us and block the views.
It may not be what it should be but I'm constantly drawn back to the dramatic landscape of Glencoe and six months ago made the optimistic booking of a cottage in November in the hope of balmy autumn weather to climb some hills I've still to do in Glen Etive. We've had good November weather in the past - that special time after the midges have gone and before the snows come - and all in rich autumn colour. This year was different. After a succession of named storms wreaking havoc with landslides and flooding, things weren't looking hopeful. In October the east was bearing the brunt but by early November it had changed and the forecast was for low cloud and rain coming in from the west. Oh well, at least we weren't camping.
The day for our drive down dawned murky with an opaque blanket over the Moray Firth extending down the Great Glen. That clinched it, we would go down the south side of Loch Ness rather than by the loch level A82. That proved a good choice as we were above the fog before we reached Daviot and didn't meet it again until Fort Augustus. The views were stunning.
Meall Fuar-mhonaidh above the fog in Great Glen
Loch Tarff looking south to more fog
Arriving too early to get access to our place we had a walk round Glencoe Lochan. With low cloud on the higher hills I'd been thinking I might have to revise my plans from Munros in Glen Etive to lower hills. An obvious candidate was the Pap of Glencoe. It's a stand out hill which always draws the eye and from some angles looks a bit too steep to climb, but from the lochan it didn't look too bad. With the weather closing in I decided to have a go, on the basis I could turn round if it became too much.
Pap of Glencoe from lochan
The next day was November 5th, granddaughter Sophie's birthday, and according to the weather sites was to be the best day of the week. Leaving from the village I left the car at the start of the forest track just beyond the electricity substation on the minor road that leads to the Clachaig. A few cars were already there. With the dog on lead I set off along the Orbital path that runs parallel to the road.
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Moira and I were up this way in 2013 to climb Sgorr nam Fiannaidh. I didn't recall any difficulties with the path, apart from a bit of scree higher up and that would be higher than I was going today. I recognised the gate with the rough sign Pap which leads immediately to a second gate. The only snag was the presence of a cow by the fence which startled Keira, making her bark. Not a good start. With cattle you don't want to get them worked up. The cow further away didn't look in the least concerned and these cows must be used to walkers, so keeping the dog close I went through the gate and up the track towards the bridge.
After crossing the bridge the path traverses the hillside and soon there are lovely views over the village and loch towards the hills of Ardgour. Doing the first part of this climb would be worth it for that alone.
After all the rain of the past weeks it was no surprise that the path was wet.
The views of Loch Leven developed with changing light and height gained so apologies if I've included too many!
The view again
Another local Fiona is Meall Mor across the glen. With a forestry track going a good way up it could be an option for later in the week. A rounded grassy hill it would be very different to the Pap.
Across the glen to Meall Mor
I heard shouting but couldn't see anyone. The only other person I'd seen so far was a girl from Germany. We walked together for a bit until I urged her to go on as my pace would be slower once we started climbing and I didn't want to hold her back. She was going up the Pap and said she'd see me at the top or meet me on her way down, but I never did see her again. The voice I'd heard was louder now and very agitated with what sounded like "Lie down Jess" repeated increasingly desperately. Jess evidently didn't feel much like lying down.
Someone was gathering sheep just up from us so first thing I did was put Keira on the lead in case she felt the urge to go and join in. Then I saw a bunch of sheep in a gully with a black and white collie running around them which I guessed was Jess. There was another dog, a white one, cavorting around like he was there for the party and generally adding to the confusion. Between them the sheep were scattering in different directions, not what you want to see on One Man and his Dog.
Zoomed to the voice
Three of the sheep raced up the wrong side of the gully and headed straight for us. They didn't seem bothered by us being there and stood on the bank just above our path looking into the middle distance. The owner of the voice had spotted us and said to keep going as we wouldn't affect anything.
The three that got away
Itching to join in the fun (with Bidean nam Bian under her chin)
We went on as instructed and presume the sheep were eventually persuaded to go the way they were meant to. We didn't see them or the man with the voice again. It was becoming a day of fleeting encounters. I started to wonder if my encounter with this path was going to be more fleeting than originally planned. I didn't remember it being so eroded when Moira and I went up it, but that was ten years ago and it's a path that takes a lot of traffic for the Pap as well as being the descent route from the Aonach Eagach. It was in places quite badly eroded, with deep cuts filled with loose debris, not so bad on the way up but I didn't like the thought of it on the descent. I remembered reading in sakura 1989's report on the Aonach Eagach that she found the descent from the ridge unpleasant and even at this lower level I would agree with that.
Eroded path
I rarely consider turning back but I started to. Parts of the path were fine but other parts had me thinking negative thoughts. In the absence of anyone to discuss it with I kept plodding, thinking I'd just do a bit more and then maybe turn. The views were a good distraction from my darkening mood.
Bidean nam Bian, Sgor na h-Ulaidh & Meall Lighiche under a darkening sky
Three cheers for a good stretch of path
With some rocky steps up
Sgorr Dhearg towering above Ballachulish
I kept looking out for the division of the path, the left fork to the Pap and the right fork to the Aonach Eagach. After that I'd be on new territory which would give a renewed impetus to keep going. In any case the path wasn't so bad after the split, more of a level traverse with muddy sections that were easily avoided to the side.
Where path heads off to Aonach Eagach
Zoomed to Ballachulish bridge
When the Pap came into view it looked more like a pudding basin than the sharp point it presents from the west. It didn't look too bad. By this stage thoughts of turning back were gone.
Stony dome of Sgorr na Ciche, commonly known as the Pap of Glencoe
From flat-topped rock the path swings right then left
Glimpse of sun on the Mamores
Cairn to mark way up the Pap
Stones had been added to improve the path and I found it pretty stable. I was soon aware of girls following, chatting as they climbed, so when they came close I stepped off the path to let them past. One of them was visiting from America and was being shown some of Scotland's best bits by the other two. They made a big fuss of Keira before going ahead to let me negotiate the rocky bit without an audience. Keira wasn't so keen on the rocks, needing a word of encouragement to cross from one jaggy rock to another. On hills I'd say quadrupeds usually have the upper hand. But when literal hands are an advantage it's that rare moment when bipeds win. We make a good team. I've always found a well trained dog a great companion on the hill and very intuitive. When I'm edging over a tricky bit Keira often comes close and I'm never sure if that's for her benefit or mine!
Steep and rocky
It was a lovely reveal moment when the Kinlochleven end of the loch came into view round the corner. I knew I was near the top now.
East end of loch now visible
Garbh Bheinn with Blackwater reservoir in gap
Mamores topped in cloud from eastern summit
The top of the Pap is rocky but flat if that's not a contradiction. It reminded me of the top of Goatfell on Arran with groups of people enjoying the views, each in their own rocky enclave.
Approaching western summit
This one is for Sophie whose birthday is today!
To Sophie Keira is Kiki (as in the cockatoo in the Famous Five). She developed a special bond with Kiki during the year the family stayed with us after a time living overseas. Dogs make wonderful confidants when times are tough.
Kiki resigned to sitting by another pile of stones
Her patience was rewarded when we found a sheltered seat in the rocks and she got her summit carrot, as well as half my chicken and bacon wrap, bought the day before in the M & S food outlet in Fort William. It was interesting sitting there watching groups of predominantly young folk taking selfies and photos of each other with the view behind.
I didn't stay too long at the top as was concerned about the steep descent and wanted to get on with it. After a last photo of the view west I set off to follow the path down, pausing for a last photo of the view east. Even with weather closing in it was beautiful.
Last shot of Loch Leven looking west
Last shot of Loch Leven looking east
I took it slowly and the descent of the steep rocky part was easier than expected. Keira hesitated at the same jaggy rock area she'd not liked on the ascent but with a word of encouragement managed it fine. All the same it was a relief to reach the grassy area at the foot of the cone, though looking back on it parts of the lower half of the descent where the path was eroded and full of loose stones were an absolute pain and the steep descent at the top was far preferable!
I saw a lot of young people on the Pap but don't recollect seeing anyone who looked a day over 50 (though looks can be deceptive), apart from one older gent I met near the flat topped rock, on his way up with a large rucksack. I asked if he was camping but he said no it was full of camera equipment. He'd driven over from Stirling where he said the weather was better then here. At that point the top of the Pap was in cloud as were most of the tops around. I said I hoped it would clear for him but I'm not sure that it did.
Good path
Eroded path
It was raining softly but enough to make the stones wet and slippy. Once we reached tree level care had to be taken on wet leaves. Someone I know broke her arm slipping on wet leaves in her back garden. Two other friends broke their ankles slipping on mud. It's often the more mundane 'safe' places we drop our guard and have accidents. With that in mind I was being careful with foot placement, probably going more cautiously than I needed to. I was with those two friends who broke their ankles and were airlifted to hospital and am rather keen not to make it a hat trick!
Even in the rain the birches glowed
When the path swung right to cross the burn I decided to follow the path straight down to the road. It was a fine path through pretty woodland which crossed the burn lower down. I wondered if that might be tricky but it was possible to cross on wet stones, a time when poles are helpful. Speaking of poles I wouldn't have managed this walk without poles, specially on the descent. I didn't use one until my mid 50s and got a second one when I turned 60. They help with balance and take some of the strain off the knees. I remember before using poles having painful knees on descent and having to take ibuprofen but now my knees are fine as long as I use poles.
Alternative descent through woodland to avoid the cattle
The Pap from Loch Leven
I'd agree with the Walkhighlands description of this as a steep and very rough hillwalk, harder than many Munros I've done. It's a climb tourists will be drawn to as it seems so accessible from the village but it needs respect, a head for heights and a good pair of boots.
