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Corbetts: Beinn Lair, Beinn Airigh Charr.
Grahams: Meall Mheinnidh.
Date: 22-23/07/2023.
Distance: 17 + 15km.
Ascent: 970 + 880m.
Time taken: 8 hours, 40 minutes (Saturday), 9 hours, 15 minutes (Sunday).
Weather: Warm and sunny on Saturday breezier and more overcast (with the odd shower) on Sunday.
Plus 12km / 150m ascent on the bike.
This is the trip that I didn't think would ever happen - at least not for the pair of us. Just over 3 years earlier Jackie and I had been sitting on the summit of Beinn a' Chearcaill on the opposite side of Loch Maree and talking about our plans for the summer. Although getting onto Beinn a' Chearcaill had cost her more effort than it should have done due to her bout of Covid, things were looking good. We looked over at Beinn Lair and talked about possible plans for going up there - we reckoned with a bit of bike assistance and an overnight camp it might be possible by the end of the summer. As it turned out, things got worse rather than better, but that is Jackie's story to tell. Anyway, a long way down the line we were grateful that we were able to enjoy these kinds of adventures together again, even if her fitness levels aren't quite back where they used to be yet.
We were trying to agree something to do with David this weekend as he was up in the Highlands again. In the end I left it to Jackie to come up with overnight routes that she would be comfortable trying, and we landed on Beinn Lair. I was both surprised and pleased - I didn't think we would end up attempting anything so ambitious! We would use bikes to cut down the walking distance and she was also keen to look at Meall Mheinnidh and Beinn Airigh Charr, but all 3 of us were happy to shorten the route and leave some hills out if required.
Late as usual, we met David at the Poolewe carpark by the river and set off cycling just before 11:30am. 5 minutes later my back chain cassette fell to pieces and I had to hastily re-assemble it. I had been going on about doing some maintenance on my mountain bike for months but as usual had left it until it actually broke down!
Starting out from Poolewe Crisis averted, we left our bikes just past Kernsary and picked up our heavy packs again. Having not done much of this recently I had gone a bit overboard with goodies and was also carrying some of Jackie's stuff so she could keep her pack weight down - yikes it was heavy! After 20-30 minutes through the woods we emerged into sunshine and got our first glimpses of the hills we were aiming for.
First glimpse of Fisherfield 
Beinn Lair and Meall Mheinnidh 
Beinn Airigh Charr It was a warm day and despite starting late we weren't in any rush. So we ambled in, stopping regularly for water and rests. People take the opportunity to cycle this route quite seriously - everyone else we passed was on a mountain bike of some description (some powered). Not sure how I would feel about cycling this - I think I would need my bike in a more reliable state first! There are some steep ascents and descents (mostly short) and constant drainage channels to deal with - I think you would want to be reasonably comfortable with single-track mountain biking for it to bring any great benefit.
Approaching Beinn Lair 
Fionn Loch and Carn Mor Unsurprisingly there was swimming to be done so we made a small diversion to the shores of Fionn Loch. David joined us in the water - what a spot. Then he brewed us some tea and we spent a fair amount of time enjoying the situation.
Beinn a Chaisgein Mor above Fionn Loch 
Swimming in Fionn Loch 
Creag an Dubh Loch Eventually it was time to actually get up some hills. We retraced our steps to the junction then continued up towards Bealach Mheinnidh. The route passed through some incredible rock scenery - this link up to the bealach was the only part of the route I hadn't been on previously and it was well worth it. Near the col we collected some water and got onto the slopes leading to Beinn Lair.
Looking up to Beinn Lair through a jumble of crags 
Fionn Loch and Dubh Loch 
Across to Beinn a Chaisgein Mor 
An Teallach There was a faint path through the outcrops low down and the wind was also increasing. We debated where to camp - an actual summit camp seemed ill-advised. Jackie wanted to be higher though. In the end we found a spot at about 700m where the ridge turned a corner. There were adequate outcrops for shelter and a nice grassy spot as well as the hoped-for views out west. It seemed ideal so we dumped our heavy packs here and continued to the summit. If we found somewhere better we could always move them.
Heading for the summit of Beinn Lair with Torridon behind 
A Mhaigdean from Beinn Lair The summit is actually quite bleak and stony so in the end I was happy with our chosen camping spot. But what a place! This isn't quite the middle of Fisherfield as the main road is just on the other side of Loch Maree, but it feels like you are properly in the interior. Interesting light and shade crossed various other hills as we all took a turn at getting on top of the massive cairn.
Approaching the summit of Beinn Lair 
Out to sea along Fionn Loch 
An Teallach across Beinn Dearg Mor 
David on Beinn Lair 
Jackie on Beinn Lair 
Slioch 
Beinn Tarsuinn and Mullach Choire Mhic Fhearchair 
NW along the Beinn Lair ridge Then it was time to get back to the bags and set up camp. On the way back David tripped on a rock and did an impressive commando roll - fortunately he didn't break anything but a couple of weeks later his thigh had swollen up to the size of a melon!
Camp spot Tents up, food on, beer out, and there were some lovely rocks to lean against and admire the view - our own natural balcony. With a bit of a breeze (but avoidable behind various outcrops) we weren't bothered by midges either. An excellent sunset followed - first time I have watched one from a high camp spot in over a couple of years.
Evening light on A Mhaigdean 
Beinn Airigh Charr and Fionn Loch 
North end of Skye and North Uist 
Our dinner spot for the evening 
Sun setting behind Beinn Airigh Charr 
Sun almost gone 
Post-sunset The wind was up and down in the night but never too bad in our little corner. The next day was definitely breezier and more overcast. As we were packing up we saw the first other person of the day. He must've started early - he said he lived at Kernsary and was just out for a morning dog walk! He was surprised we had camped high. I think we chose well in avoiding the summit plateau as it probably wouldn't have been very enjoyable up there.
The morning after 
Beinn a Chaisgein Mor across Fionn Loch 
Morning sun on Meall Mheinnidh 
Showers moving down Fionn Loch 
Torridon and Loch Maree We started walking at 9ish, and by the time we had reached the col a short shower had come on. While this could have been the perfect opportunity to jack it in and take the easiest route out, we decided to go up Meall Mheinnidh. Glad we did as the weather cleared again. There are traces of path from this side and the ground is straightforward. Was Jackie going to swim in the lochan we passed? Not this time.
Rainbow 
Back to Beinn Lair 
Beinn Dearg Mor 
All of the good bits The top was quite breezy so we didn't hang around. Descent from here was steeper and more fiddly than the way up but we managed OK by weaving backwards and forwards around outcrops and small crags. There were goats and deer on the way down.
Beinn Airigh Charr from Meall Mheinnidh 
Looking across to Beinn Airigh Charr 
Goats on the ridge 
Beinn Airigh Charr across Strathan Buidhe Lower down the vegetation became thicker - a little bit heathery in places. While Jackie had a preference for avoiding this sort of stuff just now, she was prepared to accept a bit of it for a route that looked this good. Once over the burn it was onto the matching heather on the opposite slopes for a 500m pull up to the summit of Beinn Airigh Charr.
Jackie on Beinn Airigh Charr Not surprising that this was a bit of a drag but we were doing it at least - there had been a perfect opportunity to escape the hills in Strathan Buidhe. We took our time and had a break just over halfway up - David brewed us some tea again.
Looking back to Meall Mheinnidh 
The classic view of Ruadh Stac Mhor and A Mhaigdean down Fionn Loch The top section is quite steep but the ground is good and the feeling is of being on a higher hill than this. While it was a little breezy and overcast, this was turning out to be a pretty successful weekend! I think the plan had begun with maybe going up here for a summit camp then going back down the same way so Jackie had been pretty bold in attempting the rest - but it had paid off
. This is where you get all of the best views down Fionn Loch - the impressiveness only dented slightly by having been right in there the previous day.
Fionn Loch and Meall Mheinnidh 
Across Loch Maree to Torridon 
Fionn Loch and Beinn a Chaisgein Beag 
Spidean nan Clach 
Last look at that view I decided to wander over Spidean nan Clach for the views while David and Jackie skipped around it. I think David was literally skipping - when I next spotted them they appeared to be just getting up from having a rest. In fact no - David had tripped over something and fallen again! You leave him alone for 5 minutes...
Beinn Airigh Charr from Spidean nan Clach While we had now lost the Fisherfield views, we were still looking out over the coast which was great. In fact that scene stayed with us as we descended the corrie and picked up the stalkers path which would take us back to the bikes.
NW across Gruinard Bay and Loch Ewe 
North to Beinn a Chaisgein Mor We picked up the path which goes back over to the main Fionn Loch path - it was quite wet and went uphill a rather unfair amount for a descent. It actually heads quite a way back east again - in the end I persuaded Jackie that we should take a shortcut over the heather to get to the good Fionn Loch path. There was some grumbling here but we were soon back on a good surface (although still with bits of uphill). I don't think we realise how lucky we are with this path - Richard Gilbert's guide to the mountains of the NW Highlands (written in the mid 1990s) mentions that the route is a complete slop through bog - one of the worst hill approaches in the NW. When I first walked this way in 2001 that is what I was expecting but the work on improving the path had probably only recently been completed and it was brilliant.
Walking around the foot of Beinn Airigh CharrEventually we reached the woods, after which the forestry track section seemed to go on for about 4 times as long as it had on the way out
. But we reached the bikes and (mostly) freewheeled back out, wrapping up a fabulous weekend. Having missed out on swimming anywhere, we ended up stopping for a dip in Loch Maree on the way home.
