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From where we were staying at Riverbank Cottages the Pap loomed over us on one side and Meall Mor on the other. With Glen Etive Munros looking less likely I adjusted my thinking and on the first day (which looked like being the last day of good visibility before several days of rain) I went up the Pap. On the way up I had clear views of the winding forestry track up Meall Mor on the other side of the glen. Another Fiona, it's a very different kind of hill to eye-catching Sgorr na Ciche, to give the Pap its proper name. The Pap's summit is on top of a steep rocky cone with a little bit of hands on and much exposure where a head for heights is useful. Meall Mor is a sprawling grassy ridge of a hill with steep sides but accessed from the back via an easy gradient forestry track making it about twice the distance of the Pap but requiring less effort. Others might disagree but that's how I found it.
Meall Mor from start of climb up the Pap
As predicted the rain came but the forecast looked better for the Friday if I was to climb Meall Mor. In the end it was a superb half day. Pete dropped me off at 9.15 at the Glencoe Visitor Centre where there wasn't a soul about, making me think the centre was closed for the season, which I found out later it wasn't.
Chris Packham should be pleased
With a blue sky and frost on the ground it was a beautiful morning. Paths from the centre led quickly to the forestry track which I followed up to the col where a branch turns off right to a transmitter mast. I had imagined this part of the route would be through tall trees blocking any views, but that wasn't the case. It was magical with the sparkling frost, the low sun lighting up the golden birches and the gradually revealing views of the bigger hills around. I'd have enjoyed it even if only going up to the col and back.
Forestry track
Gorse blooming mid November
Snow capped Bidean nam Bian
One of many bridges over the Allt Fhiodhan on the way up to the col
Pap of Glencoe and Sgorr nam Fiannaidh
Pass of Glencoe beyond corkscrew road
There was no snow at this level but the sparkling frost reminded me of winding alpine tracks in the far off days when I used to ski. As we reached the col I was in euphoric mood. Was there even better to come?
I spy a vehicle
The van was parked at the exact point for leaving the forestry track for the climb up Meall Mor, but I walked a little beyond it just for the view.
Seat with a view
Loch Leven appearing
Zoomed to Ballachulish bridge
Sgorr Dhearg
I returned to where the van was parked (never did see an occupant) and headed off on a rough and in places boggy ATV track through a felled area. I knew this would lead to a deer fence but couldn't yet see it.
Rough ATV track through felled area
Deer fence
At the corner of the fence a rectangular space had been made about four feet up which it would have been possible for a person minus rucksack to climb through. But I had my labrador with me and she doesn't much appreciate being bundled through spaces in fences. In any case I'd read in others' reports there was a gate in the fence. I wasn't sure if the gate was to the left or to the right but guessed from the lie of the land it would be uphill to the right.
Still waters of Loch Leven and homes of Ballachulish
She knows what gates are for and often leads me to them
Once through the gate I didn't see a path but on the descent I did so must have missed it. Climbing up to the ridge on spongy moss and grass was the only part of the day which could be described as tiring, specially when out of the shade of the hill my eyes were blinded with the low sun. However turning round to enjoy the views was a great distraction and to be fair it was short lived effort and once on the ridge it was easy walking again.
Sprinkling of snow on Sgorr Dhearg summit
Snowy Mamores
Pointy Sgorr a' Choise (another Fiona)
Ambling along the gently undulating ridge towards Meall Mor's summit I felt the most privileged person on earth. The day I was on the iconic Pap I met so many people and the top was almost crowded but on this hill there wasn't another soul, just me and my dog. The views from the Pap are superb but I think the views from Meall Mor are better. Solo walking gives lots of space for thinking and seeing the Glencoe giants resplendent round me brought back memories of the days I'd climbed them and the friends I was with. Sgorr nam Fiannaidh and Meall Dearg with Moira, Bidean nam Bian with Liz, Roger and Clem, Beinn a' Bheithir with Ian and Julie, the Mamores with too many to mention and Sgurr na h-Ulaidh when it was just me and the dog. All wonderful days and treasured memories.
Meall Mor ridge looking west
Zoomed to Aonach Eagach ridge
Bidean nam Bian
Approaching craggy summit ridge
Almost there
Meall Mor summit
Summit to eat maybe?
I was too exhilerated to eat much so Keira did rather well, snuggled up to me out of the wind in a rocky enclave. She ate most of my sandwich while I just wanted to capture the moment before the dark clouds closed in.
Beinn a' Bheithir and Loch Leven
Pap of Glencoe and Mamores
AE ridge and the Three Sisters
Sgurr na h-Ulaidh
Zoomed to Glencoe village and Riverside Cottages
That done we set off along the ridge to rejoin the forestry track and back to meet Pete at the visitor centre.
Looking back at summit under a dark sky
Keira in the lead, as usual
Mast on Am Meall ahead
The van was still there but with nobody about it made me wonder if the driver was okay. Going down the forestry road was faster than the ascent had been partly as the frost had melted and cloud had come in making me less likely to stop for photos, apart from one of the dramatic V shape of the Pass of Glencoe.
Pass of Glencoe
I let Pete know when I'd be back at the centre, leaving enough time to visit the turf house they had been working on the last time I was there. As I turned off the track on to a path to the centre I heard human voices. So the place wasn't closed for the winter. It turned out to be two women working on the path and soon after that I met several people, some on holiday some walking their dogs.
What struck me about the turf house was how well it blends in with its mountainous surroundings.
Reconstructed 17th century turf house
With a similarly shaped Meall Mor behind it
It was a superb half day's walking for which I'm indebted to SecondRow and gld73 for their helpful route maps. I haven't included mine as it was exactly the same as theirs, except I didn't walk up to the mast or include Sgorr a' Choise!
