A Fantastic Fannichs Five

[The English Alpinist]

The excellent Sgurr nan Clach Geala, flagship of the Fannichs.

This walk was preceded by 'Fiona offers a great view'
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Seeking a title for this, I looked up 'fabulous' five, and discovered this refers to a book series for preteen girls, so maybe not the most fitting choice. 'Fantastic' has to be it, not so much because of the superhero connotations, but the classic March conditions and good visibility I encountered, which enabled me to achieve a major bagging success but also enjoy it for the most part (must not forget to do that!). This was day 3 of my 4-day excursion, and such sizeable travelling demanded I achieve some Munros, so far having only one to show for the trip. I saw that 3 could be linked, and should not be too much of a problem even in snow. If time and energy permitted once I reached the top of the pass (marked + on my map, it pleases me to do that), then I might even go for five. There would be catharsis in that, since those last two had scared me off as a walk two days ago, in the low cloud and snowfall, when I chose to 'enjoy' Am Faochagach instead. So, off I set, bright and early at 6.45 a.m., to give myself a chance of, in effect, combining two routes into one.

McNeish's proposed routes. I blended B with C.

My old OS campaign map, served me well.

Another of these little problems.

I strike up the west slopes of Meall a' Chrasgaith.

Meall a' Chrasgaith 3,064 feet (934m), the ridge of Sgurr nan Clach Geala ahead.

Into the col towards Munro top.

On Munro top, with par de excellence perspective on Sgurr nan Clach ahead.

Still I'm holding to the ideal of being a toppist as well as Munroist. Happily, there was only one such on this route, and not such an onerous diversion. Early little problems, as is becoming customary these days, was getting across the burn to ascend Meall a' Chrasgaith. Maybe I missed an earlier fording point, but my fears of finding myself all the way up at the pass (thus messing up my 5-Munro dream) were unfounded, and I found some suitable big rocks that I could avoid skidding off. The sun rose above the horizon as I approached the summit, and up there on the plateau was quite a bit of spindrift which leant a great feeling of wildness and 'danger' as a solo wanderer, although really there wasn't any, not yet anyway. It was onward to Sgurr nan Clach Geala, the high point of the range and with form to suit its status. It's satisfying that it's above 3,500 feet, but it's the ridge that makes the experience. This did look a bit scary, but once on it was straight-forward enough. It was the only section all day that I felt I needed the crampons for reassurance, and had an exhilirating feel of the last section of ridge to Everest summit (not that I've done that or ever will, but I'm thinking of pictures I've seen).

Towards Sgurr nan Clach Geala.

The ridge to Everest's summit.

Superb view on the distinct 'F' shape of the western Fannich pair; might be doing them.

The ascent of Sgurr nan Clach Geala will be a lifetime highlight.

Sgurr nan Clach Geala 3,586 feet (1093m), Meall a' Chrasgaith behind me.

Emerging onto the summit of Sgurr nan Clach Geala, did I hear voices? The first people I had encountered so far on 3 walks? I was astonished to meet at the summit a black spaniel, closely followed by a female human. Clearly both knew very well what they were doing, but I couldn't quite get over how much energy the animal had for one with such short legs in all that snow. It would shoot to the edge of the precipices for a 'look', seeming to have an instinct for cornice-strength. Its owner did later admit (we met again on Sgurr nan Each) the mutt was making her a bit nervous with its 'confidence'. I can report I last saw them both descending safely to the pass. The only other person I saw all day was a young guy, who looked the part, resembling the Jake Gyllenhaal character from the Everest movie (but hopefully met a better fate). We shared a bit of crampon and 3-summitting talk before moving on. This section had treated me to some superb passing cloud experiences, then was down to the pass for myself and a decision to make on how tired I wanted to make myself.

Spaniel with a sense of cornices in this pic.

Sgurr nan Each next.

With or without cloud is best?

Happy me; I'm at least going to get 3 done.

Sgurr nan Each 3,028 feet (923m), Loch Fannich to the west.

Down to the pass, a decision was to be made.

The decision was yes! Up to Sgurr Breac.

Slowly but surely onto Sgurr Breac, Munro #4.

On Toman Coinich, the 'mid-top' after Sgurr Breac and before A' Chailleach.

Down into last col, do I really want to backtrack after this?

The final slopes of A' Chailleach; the wind getting up alarmingly.

Summit of A' Chailleach 3,271 feet (997m); I'm hunkering down from fierce wind.

Down at the pass, I found my legs did the talking in a good way. I sort of just kept moving, without giving myself chance to talk myself out of it. Well, the ascent was straightforward up the south ridge of Sgurr Breac, and plodding back down the glen from here would not be fatigue-free anyway, so why not get the pair in? The only issue was an alarmingly strong wind getting up now, or maybe it was localised to these two mountains; whatever, it got strong enough to almost blow me over. There were two basic options for descent off the last; backtrack to the Munro top, Toman Coinich, or continue off the north fork of A' Chailleach. The former was the safer, but I hated to backtrack, and the presence of footprints encouraged me even further to take the latter choice. I struggled off the summit of A' Chailleach walking at a tilt, like those APT trains of the 80s, and in my haste to get off there I didn't find quite the best line. I'd removed my crampons long ago, and maybe should have made the effort to put them back on, but I can happily say the axe came into its own. I hit a bit of hardened snow at one point, and the slope got disturbingly steep for a bit, and I really had to hack the thing in to make sure I clung to it and avoided descending the 'superfast' way.

'Warning: Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly' - there you go. Good stuff.

The descent this way had not been without danger.

Well and truly down, well and truly before dark; Loch a' Bhraoin.

They're always worth photographing I suppose.

Look at them all!

After the lochan below A' Chailleach, it was safe ground but needless to say a mushy plod, especially on legs that are already wearied. I did not enjoy the trek beside Loch a' Bhraoin as much as it deserved, under the setting sun. However, I would be enjoying a return journey of great contentment having got 6 Munros to show for my trip, not forgetting a darling Fiona. Decisions had been good, mostly, and useful lessons reinforced. I treated myself to a day off, where I gifted myself the Harvey's complete book of maps (and also ordered the updated 'Graham's and Donalds' book, meaning 'Fionas' of course) from Ullapool bookshop. Oh, and An Teallach has a way of teasing you, doesn't it?

Car is still there, and so is An Teallach.

Not cheap, but a statement of purpose.

This walk was followed by a long satisfying drive home.

[litljortindan]

Great stuff. Sgurr nan Clach Geala was looking mighty fine from where I was. Wouldn't have fancied that wind later on though.

[R1ggered]

Great photos and superb effort

[Verylatestarter]

A great report, thank you for posting.

We were thinking of doing an almost identical route this Summer but were hoping to add Sgurr Mor, there and back, from Carn Na Criche. Probably too ambitious but worth a try. Your report confirms that the East slope of Sgurr Breac should be scalable; we can always dip out at the bealach if we think it too much. 6 Fannichs would be fantastic but 4 would still be very worthwhile.

All the best.

John

[The English Alpinist]

Thanks R1ggered, another time-delayed wave across the rage to you, litljort, and John - yes, the east slope is fine, a tiny bit of easy scrambling, just give yourself long enough for the whole thing. The 6 is very feasible. especially in summer, you can gather your strength at the bealach and plenty of drinking water there!

[Mal Grey]

Wow, what a great, and somewhat strenuous, day!


We looked to the first three Munros as a plan about 5 days later, but the strong winds and some hill cloud, combined with weary legs from a previous day's unexpectedly strenuous wander, had us watching eagles on the coast instead. So basically, we wimped out!

[Colin1951]

Great report with great photos, thank you for posting. These 5 took me 3 outings - your first 3 on a sodden August day in 1982- the Sgurr Bhreac in November in trail running shoes and a disturbingly cold coating of ice crystals which gave me frost nip and took 3 toenails, and made me abort the short walk up to A’ Cailleach. Eventually took A’Chaillach’s summit in a grudge match last summer!
Respect for your determination in pursuing your list from such a distance.

[Colin1951]

And you need to get up here and do the An Teallach ridge, it’s the best thing on the mainland!