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Astonishing Assynt: Two nights at Suileag and the north west ridge of CanispNow we got to the main part of our week, after our weekend foray to the edge of the Cairngorms. Nige and I had planned to meet up with Steve at Forest Way bunkhouse, south of Ullapool. Unfortunately though, Steve had come down with a particularly nasty cold since we saw him on Friday on the way north, and had to cry off. So it would just be Nige and myself heading out for a bothy for the next three days, and some hasty rethinking of who would carry what!
Assynt, Inverpolly, Coigach. All names that speak to me of that marvellous land north of Ullapool, a place that draws me back time and again, on foot or with canoe. To me, this is one of the most special places on this planet, the way the mountains rise from the loch-studded moors, dramatic and inaccessible looking. Once you penetrate their fortifications, the views are astonishing, the back drop the shimmering sea with floating islands as far as the eye can see. I’ve visited several times in the last few years, but mostly with the canoe (I was with, rather than by, because of the amount of portages required to really get to know the area!). This time would be on foot, heading for a couple of nights in Suileag bothy before ascending either Suilven, or more likely Canisp. Yes, they can both be done in a day, but that’s not the point for me, time living in a landscape is time spent wonderfully.
The walkers parking about a mile east of Lochinver on the Glencanisp lodge road, was empty. It’s a great place to set out from, with the hills lined up on the horizon ahead of you. I tried to concentrate on how stunning it was, rather than the nagging feeling that now the communal stuff was to be shared amongst two of us instead of three it was going to hurt more; and we’d brought bigger pans etc from home so couldn’t even make it much smaller. Of course, the communal stuff also includes a bag of coal, which Nigel traditionally carries (Steve and I always say its because he’s tallest), and a guitar, which is mine. I got most of the cooking gear and food, but Nige did take a good share too. Also, we don’t go for lightweight dehydrated stuff; I’d prepped the veg etc the night before for two proper meals and would basically be cooking pasta Bolognese from scratch first night.
We debated the ironmongery issue; there was a little snow clinging to the hills, but just a little and no more forecast. In the end, we decided on taking crampons in case of short slippery patches of frozen ground, but not ice axes, just poles. If there was anything with any fall potential down snow needing ice axe braking, we’d simply either avoid it or turn around.
We set off in good spirits. I assume Nigel’s little dance was deliberate. The sky was blue, the sun warm on our faces, and the wind howling. The first section to Glencanisp lodge is on tarmac, not the best in our heavier mountain boots, but quick and flat!
Once past the lodge, the track is good, well surfaced all the way, contouring the north slope of the glen. Always the views are to die for, its an enjoyable walk even with the increasing number of little ups and downs. The hills looked magnificent.
After a break and a short, sharp climb, the way ahead opened up, a long shallow glen, a little like a tunnel. A wind tunnel. And it was. Now we felt the full force of the 30mph headwind, though of course it refused to be consistent and occasionally came from either side unexpectedly. This was really wearying! None of that shows in the photos…
After about 2 hours, we finally reached the little path that left the main track and turned up to the bothy just a few hundred yards away. Phew.
We’d reached our home, and what a lovely place it is. Suileag bothy was in fine condition, and the previous resident had left it lovely and clean. And the location, well it is frankly amazing, staring out at Suilven, with Canisp looking down at it through a fold in the hills.
We’d arrived well before sunset so had a bit of a wander around before darkness fell, and we retired to our cosy home. Well, cosy-ish, as it took a while for the fire to warm it up. Suileag does, though, have loft insulation so once warm, it stayed warm! Dinner was a pasta Bolognese, with Laphroaig Quarter Cask chasers. Later, a little music, both from me and the guitar, and a little quiet folky stuff from phone via mini speakers.
Our luck with the weather continued, and we awoke to another wonderful day, the cloud clinging to the towering flanks of Suilven clearly already starting to burn off. Inside, the coffee was soon on the go.
Today’s plan was to continue up the glen. We’d toyed with either Suilven, which we’ve both done before but is simply stunning, and Canisp, which I’d never done before. What confirmed our choice as the latter was the realisation that the whole ascent of Suilven would be in the shade, up the steep flanks with ice expected on the path. We hoped that Canisp would lose its cap of cloud before we got there. It’s a reasonable distance, maybe 3km along the glen then a similar distance up the glen’s sides and the north west ridge to the summit.
By the time we’d got going, happily enjoying rather lighter packs, most of the clouds had lifted. Except for the one on the very top of Canisp, of course. The walk along the glen remains simple and on a good track. We met a couple of other chaps near the turn off to Suilven, which they’d overshot, and were soon above Loch na Gainimh, where our climb would commence.
Here, a decent stalkers’ track climbs up an obvious valley, a nice steady way to gain the moors. It was warm work and we stopped to replenish our bottles near the top, and to take in those views, of course. We also had first lunch too.
Leaving the narrow valley behind, we had a short moorland crossing, pretty dry today but potentially a tad soggy, which took us to the foot of the north west ridge of Canisp.
As we ascended, the views were opening up. This is what I’d come for. I just love this landscape, and it never disappoints. As well as Suilven, Cul Mor and the hills of Coigach were now appearing to the south.
Our ridge rose ahead of us, simple enough though with a couple of steeper sections, some with a hint of snow on. The wind had found us now, whenever our route took us onto the crest, and our ascent was one of contrasts between the cold wind biting hard, and the warmth of the sun when on sheltered slopes. Poor old Nige had now caught Steve’s cold so was suffering in a different way too.
The steep bits were a little awkward, some thin soft snow lying in places, but nothing crampons would have helped with. The amazing scenery was enough of an excuse for frequent ‘photo stops’ too. Quinag had now joined in too.
Cresting a false summit, we reached the clouds, still clinging stubbornly to Canisp’s cap. Now the terrain was more awkward, stumbling around a bit in the wind for the final steeper climb.
The summit itself was reached quickly enough, but was probably the least memorable bit of the whole day. Views were non-existent, so we didn’t hang about either at the high point, or in the excellent summit shelter perched right next to the northern cliffs. Quickly we dropped back below the clouds.
Now we could really enjoy ourselves, the hard work over, and inevitably the clouds were lifting clear of the top as soon as we were a few hundred feet lower. We didn’t care, just look at the landscape laid out in front of us, the overwhelming magnificence of Assynt.
It was time for a late second lunch, tucked in below the ridge out of the wind, which never relented.
The walk back was uneventful, other than that astonishing scenery, though it did still drag a little, and I was feeling a little battered after yesterday’s lugging and today’s wind battling. We were glad when the bothy came into sight.
Look clear top!
As the sun lowered, I had my tea on the terrace, once more gazing at the ever-changing light on the buttresses of mighty Suilven, before returning to our glowing fire and more good food and a few drams.
Finally the wind died, and for the only day of our whole week, our walk out was not troubled by gusts and wind chill. Though the packs were still pretty heavy, they weren’t a patch on the walk in, even though I hadn’t burned the guitar, and I could actually enjoy the walking. Which wasn’t bad, really…
One last, lingering, glimpse at the unique monolith of Suilven, and it was off to the pie shop to recover.
Suileag: 5km each way, 100m ascent/descent
Canisp from Suileag: 15.5km round trip, 932m ascent/descent
Next, the mad mini mountains behind Gairloch!
