An Ettricks Compleation by Bothy

[The English Alpinist]

Approach to Croft Head along part of the Southern Upland Way.

Main walk (red); Return next morning (green).

This walk was preceded by 'My One Visit to Cauldcleuch Head'
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=123831

It may seem a little grandiose to talk in terms of 'compleation' for such small fare as the Ettrick Hills - mere 'hills' - but with real compleations a long way away for me, I shall take what I can get! Treating myself to a shorter journey than the last outing to the Fannichs, I chose these, and research revealed that it is normal to break them down into two or more separate walks. I do not feel time is on my side to savour a very small-bite approach, but also didn't really need to gobble them all at once. However, the challenge was irresistible, the weather was good, and I had a further reason: Bothy experience! Contemplating a 4-day Cairngorm tour in the summer, utilizing the bothies of the area to get as many peaks done as possible, I felt I really needed to try out a single bothy somewhere first to, well, see if I can stand it. Up until now, I have much preferred to return to my car after every walk, and sleep in it for a good night's sleep. Bothies (and tents for that matter) have not appealed to me as facilities for sleep. Well, I saw that the Ettricks has its very own bothy at Over Phawhope, and furthermore by using this it would enable a complete tour of the Ettrick Donalds (with Tops) in one day of walking. Starting from the pass at Birkhill on the A708, returning to it the day after, spending the night in said bothy. It would have been possible to return all the way to the A708 in one day, but making for a rather monster walk, which was already quite big enough thanks: one has to have some enjoyment, and I had an important bothy rehearsal to do.

Herman Law and more or less the true summit of Trowgrain Middle; that's two of 15 accomplished.

Herman Law (2,016 feet) from the leaning tower of Trowgrain Middle (2,060 feet).

Andrewhinney Fell, 2,222 feet (677m), with just about the rest of the day's tour in view in the distance.

From Andrewhinney to Bell Craig (Donald 2,044 feet) to Mid Rig (Top 2,020 feet), and snow I endured.

View of Under Saddle Yoke and Nether Coomb Craig across the valley from the Andrewhinney ridge.

On Bodesbeck Law, 2,179 feet (664m), a lot to do to loop around to Ettrick Pen (far left).

Coming down to the pass at Bodesbeck Burn, with White Skank and 'phase 2' ahead if I fancy it.

The day was a grand one. Visibility was always full, although it was quite cold (near freezing on the high ground) despite a good deal of sun, and I was even treated to what the forecast called 'light snow' at times. In reality, this comprised a sprinkling of those polystyrene bead-like pellets, with barely any power at all to cause wetness - delightful! Donalds are sometimes maligned (for their terrain, and I have been a culprit for this), but I must roundly state that on a great day such as this there is no more relaxing and liberating experience in the world, with great open spaces and far-ranging views to be enjoyed, indeed some of the Donalds themselves looking like quite impressive mountains (eg the Moffat Hills) when viewed from such good vantage points. Okay, the ground underfoot was often not very inspiring, and at times a pain (eg Herman Law to start, and later West Knowe) but I shall have little else but fond memories of the day. Reaching the pass at the end of the Andrewhinney ridge, the obvious option was to cut the venture into two easier halves by descending to the bothy there and then - or even wimp out of the bothy experience and return to the car and drive around for the next day's walk - but come on, I needed to be made of sterner stuff than that. This was safe country, and I had all day to get around the range. It was on to the next phase, beginning with White Skank (unflattering, but not unjust name), and ultimately all the way around to Ettrick Pen if energy permitted. There would still be plenty of options to break off if necessary.

From White Skank to Capel Fell, which gives me a sobering view of Croft Head when I reach it.

This, I believe, was the summit of White Skank in all her drama (2,039 feet). Smidhope Hill up next.

Coming down to Ettrick Head, with Ettrick Pen poking up as high point of the range (and my finale).

This is The Southern Upland Way, with the zigzaggy Croft Head ascent awaiting.

The Tunguska event of the Ettricks. I'm climbing Croft Head.

Croft Head, looking southish; relieved to attain it, but work still to be done.

I descend Croft Head, respool some of the Southern Upland Way, then choose any old way up to the right.

Up West Knowe (a Donald Top and a pig) and onto Loch Fell (worthily scenic once there), 2,257 feet.

It was coming over Capel Fell that my spirits sunk the most. Here I got a view of Croft Head, after a bit of confusion working out what was what and not wanting to believe it was so far away (and Loch Fell), but having to accept that it was. Down at Ettrick Head, I did give some thought to heading for the bothy and calling it a day, leaving the rest for tomorrow. But I didn't fancy that either, much preferring the prospect of a nice leisurely trek over the pass and up the road to my car in the morning with no peaks to do. So, a bit of stubborness was all that was called for, the evening was young and I was in one piece, so onward! This section, along the Southern Upland Way, was the standout bit in terms of surroundings and I did feel it was a pity I didn't enjoy it more, the prospect of getting up and down Croft and then up to Loch Fell not a stroll in the park. The satisfaction of getting it done, however, makes it worthwhile; that was the philosophy for this day. Then there was that bothy to look forward to! Getting onto Loch Fell, via West Knowe, was indeed a pig underfoot (not wet today but very tussocky) but once on Loch Fell it was sublime, tiredness not being so bad to ruin it. The sun came out, a bit of black cloud threatened but did nothing, and views were splendid; including my 'home run' of the last 3 peaks ending on Ettrick Pen, high point of the range. Then down to that bothy! Excited, just a bit cold and fatigued.

The clouds displayed some attitude, but didn't do anything on me.

The homeward run in evening sun; Wind Fell, Hopetoun Craig and Ettrick Pen.

The 'twister season'.

Over Wind Fell, and sighting Ettrick Pen summit (but Hopetoun Craig came before this).

Big cairn on Hopetoun Craig (not the summit), looking back to Wind and Loch Fells.

Hopetoun Craig (2,073 feet) is a Donald Top and a New Donald; grand finale of Ettrick Pen ahead.

Ettrick Pen, 2,270 feet (692m): moments to be savoured, and then descended from.

The ground from Loch Fell all the way along to 'the Pen' was very acceptable, and I was now feeling quite pleased with myself if a little anxious still about the waning of the day. Wind Fell was not windy for me today, but I do think it might be renamed 'Hag Fell' for what it looks like on the summit, with Hopetoun Craig next up (Donald Top) having a bit more character I suggest. I think maybe this is why it gets 'New Donald' status, where not all the Tops do. There could be little doubt about Ettrick Pen being the fitting finish to this high hills tour, but there was regret about not being able to enjoy it for longer, being a bit too cold but moreover wanting to get down to the bothy by what was left of the sunlight rather than by torchlight. This was prudent, although there are no great dangers hereabouts, I probably did make a slight blunder in not following the north end of the Pen around where I believe there was more of a path, instead descending directly west through felled forest (a bit lucky it was felled perhaps). There was something primeval, reassuring and satisfying about aiming directly for the setting sun for my direction on the bothy, though, so that's my excuse. Who needs a compass?! (joke). I found myself alone at the bothy, and wasn't sure whether I would have preferred a little bit of company on my first visit to one of these things, but in the event I truly enjoyed my stay (I will do a separate post on it, because I'm enthusing so much about this experiment).

Oh, yes, and 9 Donalds and 6 Donald Tops done . I do recommend doing the complete range in this way, if the weather is good and fitness permits, but also I recommend breaking it down for easier enjoyment, as it's well worth a leisurely stroll for the views and the peace with only the sound of the breeze, the running waters and the birds chirping. There are various ways to break these down, making them a gem in my opinion. They'd be quite something in snow too, but grim and very drab without visibility. Well, if you've read this far you may have noticed I enjoyed my day in the Ettricks, and I hope I have sold their case.

I beat the sun down to Over Phawhope Bothy, and spend the night alone in there. Magic!

This walk is followed by 'Bothy Experience - Over Phawhope - was no Bother'
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=123837