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The last Munro trip of our Doune Knoydart week saw us taking the boat Gripper II from Doune, on an early morning start along Loch Hourn to Barrisdale for a landing at the far end.
Woody enjoying the sea air
Beinn Sgritheall with an overnight dusting of snow
Stob a'Chearcaill, on the Ladhar Bheinn ridge
The plan was to traverse the Munros Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe with a walk out to Inverie, from where we would be picked up in the van for the drive back to Doune, no boat retrieval this time.
We knew the weather was going to be a bit more changeable today but we got off to an excellent start with sunshine and a very smooth journey on the boat, with perfect clarity in the stunning Lochside views.
Looking back across Loch Hourn to Bheinn Sgritheall:
The first objective of the day, Luinne Bheinn, from Barrisdale:
Ladhar Bheinn from Barrisdale:
We were on our way shortly after 9 o’clock, past the bothy and campsite and up the path to the Mam Barrisdale, much like we’ve done on the first day up Ladhar Bheinn, but instead of cutting across rough ground, this time we went to the top of the pass and onto the boggy and occasionally indistinct path.
Luinne Bheinn and connecting ridge, from the Mam Barrisdale:
In fact, it became totally indistinct as Lee, our guide, led us straight up over tussocky grass to the ridgeline. This was a particularly awkward stage for me, as the terrain put a lot of strain on my blisters, but in due course we found the steep path on the ridgeline and things got a lot easier.
The views were opening up, not just back to the Barrisdale but forward to Inverie and the islands beyond.
The path on the ridgeline was steep and eroded in places, with the occasional hands-on, but got us up the hill quickly before easing off.
Woody checking Lee for ticks:
With amazing views all around us it didn’t seem that long until we hit the gentler summit slopes and then the top itself.
Barrisdale, Loch Hourn and Beinn Sgritheall:
Inverie with Loch Nevis, Eigg and Rum beyond:
Slopes of Ladhar Bheinn with Skye Cuillin beyond:
Meall Buidhe - the second Munro of the walk:
For two members of the party, Jo and Alison, this was their 50th Munro, a special landmark indeed (well, it was good enough for Muriel Gray – if you know, you know).
Woody the dog wasn’t too bothered about which number he was on but I think this was his second of the trip, although he’d ran several Munros worth in the time it took us to sweat our way up just the one.
After the usual celebratory backslapping and photos we decided to move on to have lunch down in the lowest point dip between the two Munros.
The descent was swift once over the subsidiary top, Lee even found a small shelter of local stones, with an excellent view over surrounding hills. He promised to himself that he would come up and stay, one of these nights.
Ladies that lunch:
After our lunch break we undertook the second task of the day, the ascent of the various ridges, lumps and bumps intervening between Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe. The Way ahead:
An entertaining and interesting part of the walk with much ups and downs, and some very interesting geology to look at. not that I knew much about it!
Eventually we got to the actual summit ridge and the final ascent of Meall Buidhe itself, where we met the first walkers that we’d seen all day on these wonderful hills.
Once again, we enjoyed ourselves at our second summit of the day and the last of the week. For me this was Munro number 192 and there’s been many times along the way where I didn’t think I would get this far (and still so far to go
!).
To this point we had had some pretty decent weather: clear, sunny but cool, and very pleasant to walk in. However, we could see a front moving in across the hills to the north and sure enough as we started our descent of Meall Buidhe we knew the precipitation would soon be upon us, and sure enough it started to snow.
We had an interesting descent of the hill across flat grasslands at first and then a steep dive off the south east flank of Meall Buidhe to eventually join the track from Sourlies and Carnoch, way down in Glenn Meadail below. The bracken for which this hill is notorious was just sprouting and we were very relieved not to have to force our way through that at the end of a long day.
On passing, we were invited to pop in and have a look at to the private Kilchoan estate bothy at the invitation of the occupants there, very impressive and smart as bothies go – by private invitation or booknig only! Of course, it being the last big walk of the week. as we left we had a prolonged downpour of heavy rain, the Highlands just reminding us to be grateful for the wonderful weather we’d had all week - and this is what we could have had!
On that last walk out Inverie did seem a long way away for tired legs, but finally, we made it, and had time to enjoy another pint in the Old Forge, where we were entertained by an exhibition game of pool (well , that’s what they called it), whilst waiting for Andrew to come along with the van to pick us up. There was to be no final boat trip today, but we were a happy bunch, having achieved much over the week in great conditions and in great company.
Doune, six miles from Inverie, is not itself on the road but requires a 10-15 minute, 150 m descent downhill walk on a grassy path to reach. At one time it is said approximately 150 people lived and crofted this area, but sadly we all know how that ended. Today the bay is home to several dwellings, but centre stage goes to our base at the Doune Knoydart restaurant and accommodation, run superbly by hosts Rebecca and Skipper Andrew. It’s a different way of doing these hills, and for us it worked perfectly, everything lining up nicely in terms of conditions, guiding and the group dynamic. Thank you Rebecca and Andrew from Doune, and thank you to my walking chums for the week, Lee, Jo, Alison, Jo (another one!), John, Sarah, Paul, Robert, and of course, Woody. Memories for a lifetime.
