Tracking my family history on Gairich

[Paul4Jags]

Gairich.gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

(gpx starts at Walkhighlands suggested point, but then continues on the return to where I camped - distances and times just for the WH walk)

Gairich isn't a physically challenging summit to climb, but it is a perfect wee mountain for a day out, with some of the most spectacular views around. However, I came to Gairich mainly to try and track down my great-great-great-great grandfather, who hailed from these parts.

In his time the king's authority was clamping down on lawlessness and new rules were being established for land use and land ownership. In 1782 the area around Loch Quoich, which had been used as pasture for cattle by the local residents, was turned over to sheep farming. By 1796 sheep outnumbered cattle by 40 to 1 in the nearby Kilmonivaig parish. Ewan MacPhee was born about 1785 somewhere around Glengarry. When I walked the Loch Lochy Munros last year I felt I had followed his last journey, down the old Coffin Road to the old graveyard at Kilfinnan where he was buried around 1850 on the banks of Loch Lochy. Between 1785 and 1850 he led a "colourful" life. Conscripted to the British Army in 1807 he fought with them in Spain before deserting and returning home, After being arrested at Corpach, he escaped and fled to the hills around Loch Arkaig for 2 years. He then settled on an uninhabited island in Loch Quoich, took a wife, raised a family, and made a living from healing sick cows, weaving charms, and stealing sheep. It was the latter that caught up with him eventually after living this way for over 30 years, and he was arrested and died in prison in Fort William.

The outlaw Ewan MacPhee

The island in Loch Quoich where he lived was sunk beneath the loch when the water level was raised by 100ft in 1955 when the hydroelectric works dammed the loch. Old maps show it near the south bank of the loch, as "MacPhee Island", in the shadow on Gairich. 

1920 OS map of Loch Quoich and McPhee's Island

View across the dam

Arriving early in the morning at Loch Quoich there was plenty of space at the wee car park near the dam. The route I followed was as described in Walkhighlands, so I won't go into much detail. It starts by crossing the dam and skirting round the loch before heading up a muddy path onto the hillside. The path soon dries out and offers great views across to Spidean Mialach. The incline is gradual all the way, with just a short section where you need to use your hands on the rock.

Path along the lochside

Towards Gairich

Looking back down on the path

Looking down on Loch Quoich

In my imagination I had my outlaw ancestor scrambling over these hills with his ill-gotten gains under his arm, making his way back home to the lochside. It is hard to imagine how the landscape looked around here 200 years ago, but if Ewan ever came up to the summit of Gairich he must have felt like master of all he surveyed. He would see Loch Quoich below with smoke rising from his bothy on the island, sheep dotting the hillside, and occasional settlements up and down the glen, and from the summit the views today looking in all directions were spectacular. Skye visible off to the west, and the Glen Shiel ridge to the north.

Views north from the summit cairn

Loch Quoich, where the island was submerged

Golden plover coming to see me

Looking back towards Gairich on the way down

Returning by the same route to the lochside, I had decided to camp on the north side of the loch, as near as I could to his submerged island. There was plenty of empty, dry space here for me, and my plan was to tackle Gleouraich and Spidean Mialach the following day.

Did I feel the ghosts from the past walking the shore at night? Nah, not really. It is easy to romanticise the tough existence that they must have led out here, but it was a nice way to try to see my forebears in the environment they knew so well. It made a change from researching my family history in dusty libraries or from behind a computer screen, to get out to where they lived and died. As a walk, I think Gairich has been one of my favourites, a perfect wee walk and a spectacular setting.

Camping on the lochside

View of Gairich and location of McPhee Island from Gleouraich

[R1ggered]

Very enjoyable post. We can only imagine how hard life was then compared to today. Had a great day on Gairich myself a couple of years ago.

[Bonzo]

Interesting read. Does the water level of the loch ever drop low enough to reveal the island?

[Paul4Jags]

Yes, it's a lovely day out. Wee bit of everything.

Very enjoyable post. We can only imagine how hard life was then compared to today. Had a great day on Gairich myself a couple of years ago.

[Paul4Jags]

I don't think so. Looking at old OS maps the island seems fairly flat to the previous water level, with no contour lines, so must be beneath almost 100 feet of water now. That would need to be a very long, hot summer.

Interesting read. Does the water level of the loch ever drop low enough to reveal the island?

[litljortindan]

Going by this he had a good innings:
https://www.statista.com/statistics/1040159/life-expectancy-united-kingdom-all-time/

[Paul4Jags]

Aye, he contracted cholera in prison and died from that, or I think he'd still be living rent free on his island today. He seems to have been tolerated by the local landowner as a bit of local colour, apparently always dressed in a kilt, with a dirk hanging by his side.

Going by this he had a good innings:
https://www.statista.com/statistics/1040159/life-expectancy-united-kingdom-all-time/