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Setting off at 8am from the car, we walked in the estate track passing a few walking groups. The walk in felt relentlessly uphill with our backpacks, water and a (nearly) vintage tent, and we mused that many choose to cycle in. Certainly the cycle out would be better.
We found a cracking spot to camp just east of the wire bridge used to get to Sgurr na Feartaig. Some lovely flat grass for the tent and a nice bank to dip the feet (or oneself) in after a long walk. Our hike was to be about 28 - 29km all in and we'd take in Maoile Lunndaidh, then ascend the NE ridge of Bidean an Eoin Dearg taking in the top then on to Sgùrr a' Chaorachain and Sgùrr Chòinnich... then if legs willing we'd tag on the Corbett Sgurr na Feartaig. As you can see from the GPS, that didn't come to fruition. My friend preferred to do the route the other way around in order to enjoy a pathed walk in - and that sounded sensible to me, apart from contemplating descending the NE ridge of Bidean an Eoin Deirg. So plans changed and Sgurr na Feartaig was dropped. Shame, but I reckon it would be nice to combine with Beinn Tharsuinn to make for a bigger day. My gripe about most Corbetts is that they are often a long drive for a short (<15km) walk so any change to string two or three together for a meatier day is welcome.
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There's not lots to say about the ascent up Sgùrr Chòinnich other than a few interesting but mild scrambles - although the views back to Bidein a Choire Sheasgaich were impressive. I've always wanted to take that and Lurg Mhor in from the North as it looks a more interesting route. Keen to hear from anyone who has done so as from here the Northern crag bands looked formidable.
After tagging the top, we continued over Sgùrr a' Chaorachain, a fairly easy plod but with stunning views in all directions. From the top, our attention was immediately onto how we'd get off the north of Bidean an Eoin Dearg. As we approached the sub top we looked down every corrie and ridge for a route down onto gentler slopes. Annoyingly a residual cornice of snow was blocking entry into the corrie immediately before the summit.
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I'd read a couple of walk reports where folk had climbed the NE ridge of Bidean an Eoin Dearg - but looking down it from the top itself it looked very steep. My friend decided to take an extended break to contemplate the descent. He had tired legs so that factored in, but I descended about 40 metres and at points loose rocks were coming away with wanton abandon. I was as concerned about knocking a boulder onto someone below as I was about slipping on a loose rock so I turned heel and returned to the summit. It was much easier going up, but we didn't fancy going down it. We sat on the summit for a good half hour pondering whether to just go for it but eventually decided to retrace our steps and consider an alternate ridge.
Heading West I decided to try the head of the next ridge, I descended about 15 metres, but the grass felt incredibly steep, like a shear wall, and I descended onto a bit that felt precarious with a clump shifting under my foot. Had that gone, I would have had a considerable tumble. I was back at the top in what felt like 10 seconds but adrenaline had kicked in and done it's job. My friend said he got a kick of adrenaline just watching me.
Defeated on the prospect of a direct descend, we headed back West to Sgùrr a' Chaorachain to take the gentle north ridge down, briefly following Sron na Frianich then heading directly to Drochaid Mhuilich. From there, we looked up the ridges we had considered descending and agreed that ascent would be much more sensible. I'm always awed by how a mountain 'talks' to you, whether it's the wind picking up, or a loose stone giving you a wobble, dispelling hubris. 'not today lads'.
From Drochaid Mhuilich, after my friend recovered from pretty bad leg cramps, an intermittent path and some zigzagging made for an easy 350m ascent. Once up on the plateau it was a straightforward plod to the sub top. Tagging that we headed for Maoile Lunndaidh, commenting that it felt much like something you'd find in the Cairngorms. We briefly marvelled at the massive northern corrie and it's strange lumpy floor. I'd love to come back and give that some exploration.
The descent North hugging the edge made for some great views and the sun was beginning to head towards the horizon making for some beautiful light. To get back to the tent, we roughly followed the WalkHighlands route but in reverse. Contouring around the North flank of Carn nam Fiaclan was not fun, nor was plodding through the boggy peaty land south of Glenuaig Lodge.
Getting to the stream, we looked for the crossing indicated, but it looked pretty deep, mucky and would require boots removed. Instead we doubled back and headed to the narrowing shown on the OS map where it was barely a hop across, dry feet and all. Once on the estate track it was a mindless plod back to the tent, my mind wondering if we'd have had an easier time doing the route in reverse, but nonetheless satisfied with our decision making.
Back at the tent it wasn't long until I was neck deep in the river and washing off the muck of the day as the sun began to set. After the dook I laid in the tent and contemplated that I've now only 22 Munros (and 23 sub tops) until completion - an exciting prospect but almost tainted with a feeling that the finish line is a little too close for comfort.
