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I've been wanting to do this walk for sometime as Bute is fairly close to home and I like the idea of exploring a lesser travelled path. As I haven't been out for a good multi day hike/camp for sometime I thought it would be good to ease back into it.
There was also the appeal of leaving the car at home for the weekend and travelling via train, bus and ferry.
In order to avoid retracing our steps I spent some time planning the route and reading other people's experiences.
We picked the weekend just before the end of May bank holiday weekend as it was the only time I could take annual leave for it. This proved to be a blessing in disguise as we experienced the hottest weather so far this year. My friend had a bit more availability at the time so was happy to join me.
Day 1: 11.5 miles
We travelled by train from Glasgow to Wemyss bay which linked up with the next ferry to Rothesay. Lovely day for it, all the other passengers were in good spirits. After half an hour we arrived in Rothesay and headed to the tourist information building and obtained a free basic map showing the island and the route(more detailed OS maps are available for a price).
We walked towards the castle. Still in town we joined the B848 which then linked us up with the path. Walking on the single track road for a bit until we reached Loch Fad. The last time I was here was in 2018 where a team was attempting the fastest water speed record with the renovated Bluebird K7 speedboat.
We stopped for a break here. There were no speed boats on the water but plenty of fishermen taking advantage of the excellent weather and quiet surroundings. The path took us through a few fields- if in doubt follow the wooden markers or muddy foot/hoof prints. The walk to loch Ascog was quite exposed so we marched on past the loch where we spotted the bird hide but as this was occupied we continued on up a gradual slope. At the top/end of the lord James ride there were great views of Bute, Arran and kintyre and we stopped here for a short rest & refuel. The route then heads towards a nice beach(Stravanan Bay) then turns back inland through the golf course.
The path took us alongside the airfield and finally along a shaded section finishing at Kilchattan bay village where you can see the community orchard on the left hand side. Unfortunately we were too late for the shop so cracked on to the end of the village and began the Kikchattan bay circular.
This part of the route was quite rocky and we were exhausted when we reached Hawks nib. Luckily just round the next corner was our planned camping spot with a nice view of the lighthouse and Little Cumbria. There was space here for 4 tents but the grass can get a bit boggy here after rain. As it was such a nice sunny day a short paddle in the sea was necessary to cool the feet off.
Day 2. 12 miles
After breakfast we packed up and headed round to Glencallum bay which also looks like a great camping spot and has a freshwater stream running through it. We climbed out of the bay then reached a nice view point looking down onto loch Na Leighe.
Continuing along while enjoying the amazing views on both sides we then reached St Blanes ruins. Then heading upwards towards the Suidhe Chatain and finally descended through some woods with lots of pungent wild garlic into Kilchattan bay village. We were just in time to get a breakfast roll, snacks and water refills at the shop. The shop was quite busy with a lot of passing cyclists.
Caught the bus to Rothesay, and noticed a seal sitting on a rock at Ascog. When the bus got to the Glenburn hotel we got a nice view of the Waverly departing from Rothesay's harbour.
We got off the bus at Rothesay to restock and make use of the Victoria public toilets. We originally planned to do the north circular route from Port Bannatyne but due to the late start, heavy bags and lovely weather we decided to skip the Port B to Rhubodach section.
Later at Rhubodach we headed past the ferry terminal onto a path into the woods signposted Balnackailly loop. The path was directed due to dangerous trees that have fallen or were still in the process due to stormy weather they recently had. Out of the woods where the path splits it's worth leaving your bag here then head northwards to have a look at the WW2 bunker and decoy village. The views over to Tighnabruich and Colintraive are nice.
After some more well signposted forestry track we headed southwards down the glen(Glenmore)through a few marshy fields parallel to the burn and finally onto a farm road which links up with Ettrick bay. There are a few information boards about old settlements here but we were keen to get to the second camping area so didn't hang around to explore much else.
We headed towards the centre of the bay past a lot of campervans and soon found an area to camp next to a small stream around 7pm. We couldn't resist a paddle to sooth the feet and legs then set up our tents. I'm pretty sure we spotted the ISS but it might have been a satelite. Sorry - terrible photo.
Day 3 5.5 miles
After breakfast we followed the old tram track path this took us along the sides of some fields, skirting around a ruined church and through some nice wooded areas with views of Kames castle and gardens before turning towards Port Bannatyne.
Good Hobbiton vibes at this part and other sections (Kilchattan bay, loch Fad). We shortly arrived in Rothesay and rewarded ourselves with fish and chips at one of the many cafes.
On the ferry back we were lucky to spot some dolphins or maybe they were porpoises?
Due to the Sunday timetable the ferry didn't quite link up with the next train to Glasgow so we had to spend some time in the Station bar for a well deserved pint.
The amazing weather definitely made this trip a winner. It brought out plenty of wildlife to see and hear plus all the locals we met in town or on the track were friendly and helpful.
We did have some bother getting drinking water at Ettrick bay but I've put in a suggestion to Scottish water to site a water refill station there. We weren't at the point of dehydration and if it came to it, I'm sure the locals would be happy to help out.
I'm thankful to the volunteers than maintain the West Island Way, there was plenty of signposts and information boards to learn about the area and it's history. I would definitely do this walk again and maybe bring more water if the weather is scorching.
