The Fast, The Slow & The Mountains: Beinn Dearg4 + S/Bhraigh

[Meiklie Mist]

In 2023 I had planned a route to take in the Beinn Dearg round of four and include Seana Bhràigh over a two-day hike, but for various reasons hadn’t managed to get around to it. It then ended up being an almost last-minute decision on the Thursday to make the trip at the weekend – two slow humans and one fast Border Collie.

With three dogs to choose from now (all fast Border Collies), we chose to take Ted (all three would have been way too much) on his first hike, which was to include an overnight camp .

The intention was to start walking at 07:00 and camp somewhere near the top of Eididh nan Clach Geala, then head out to Seana Bhràigh on the second day, but we didn’t start walking until 09:00; the day was hot, and the packs were heavy, so things didn’t go quite to plan…

We were only a couple of miles in when I realised that I’d left my waterproof coat in the van . I contemplated going back but felt sure that we wouldn’t finish the round if I did, as we’d already started late and knowing how slow we would be walking… so, with a mostly good forecast, and a survival bag that I could cut into a sort of rain mac if needed, I decided to push on and hope for the best! BTW it wasn’t the best decision, and I wouldn’t recommend it, but in the end, I was glad that I’d made it.

The initial forestry track is wide and easy going. Once through a gate and out of the trees onto open ground, the path is narrower but easy to follow as it meanders up the hillside towards Beinn Dearg.

Looking ahead towards Beinn Dearg.

Ted taking a rest whilst we took pictures.

Beinn Dearg ahead looking intimidating!

It was a glorious day but although the sunshine was welcome, our packs felt heavy, and we made slow progress. After stopping for lunch at Lochan Làthail (a very pretty green lochan) we plodded on up to Lochan Uaine, reaching it at about a quarter past three. Here we decided to ditch the heavy packs and take a few essentials up to Beinn Dearg and Cona’ Mheall.

Looking back at Lochan Làthail.

The climb up to the summit of Beinn Dearg, whilst only about 200m, is steep and rocky. There are large rocks to clamber over and Ted was unsure in places, and I was concerned that he might slip, trap his leg and break something, so we took it even more slowly than usual! The rocks are relentless all the way to the top .

Looking north-west from Beinn Dearg, with Stac Pollaidh in the distance.

Looking south from Beinn Dearg.

After returning to Lochan Uaine we headed up Cona’ Meall, which starts off grassy, but very soon the rocks return – more slow progress!

Looking towards Seana Bhràigh from Cona’ Meall.

Looking north-east from Cona’ Meall.

Looking west from Cona’ Meall.

On the way down we passed a herd of deer, who seemed totally ok with us being there , they couldn’t even be bothered to run when they noticed Ted, who was on the lead at that point, much to his disappointment .

Looking back up at Beinn Dearg on the way down from Cona’ Meall.

When we reached Lochan Uaine it was around 20:00. After a brief thought about pressing on, with only an hour or so of usable daylight left, we decided to camp for the night.

Packs retrieved, tent up, supper rehydrated, and coffee drank, it was time to retire for the night. Ted who had never even seen a tent before, and who doesn’t even like getting into a vehicle, decided that this “portable kennel” was not for him! However, after some “persuasion”, he got into the porch area and settled down. By now it was heading towards midnight, but I was finding it difficult to sleep, mainly because I was aware that Ted wasn’t really settled, and there were some other campers on the other side of the lochan, who wouldn’t have appreciated Ted’s attention if he got loose!

Having just drifted off to sleep, I was woken at around 01:00 by Ted growling and upon investigation, found him to be almost fully outside of the tent, although thankfully still attached to his lead, which was pegged to the ground. Having got him back into the porch there was even less chance of sleeping now, given his antics so far, so when he then decided to get into the inner tent, I reluctantly allowed it as I could zip him in and feel a little more secure. The next two restless hours were spent dozing whilst Ted moved from the head on my sleeping mat, down the outside, across the bottom and up the middle several times while he tried to get comfortable – it was hot in the tent with two humans, sleeping bags and a hairy mutt!

Eventually Ted, followed by us, went to sleep at around 03:30 😴 – fast forward two hours and everyone was awake with the sunrise!

Having got up shortly after 05:30, made breakfast and packed our kit away, we made our way onto our next objective - Meall nan Ceapraichean. By the time we left the camp spot it was around 08:00 – I have no idea where the time went but we seemed to be doing something the whole time!

Looking west on the way up to Meall nan Ceapraichean.

The route up to Meall nan Ceapraichean was straight-forward on grassy slopes, and only about 100m of ascent , but shortly before the summit, the rocks returned .

Looking north-west from Meall nan Ceapraichean.

The route ahead from the summit of Meall nan Ceapraichean.

Once off of the pesky rocks the going was mainly on grass, interspersed with stones. Next, we headed up over Ceann Garbh – yet more rocks near the summit (we were fed up of them by now – not my favourite ground to walk on ).

On the route from our camp spot, we were passed by the other campers and another couple, who may have camped as well – we weren’t sure, and they didn’t stop to chat. Both of them headed further east than the WH route before descending to the lochans below Eididh nan Clach Geala. We followed the WH route, but wondered if we had missed a trick . The first couple were way ahead, but although the second couple had overtaken us, we reached the lochans before them, and were pleased that we’d made the right choice of route. It looks rocky on the map, but as long as you stay on the WH line, it’s very straightforward and avoids the rocks altogether.

It was probably about 10:00 when we reached the lochans below Eididh nan Clach Geala. When we were deciding whether to press on the night before, we considered trying to reach these lochans, and whilst that would have been just about do-able, I was glad we hadn’t because there was very little flat ground and due to their sheltered position, there were a good deal more midges around! 🦟 🦟 🦟

The climb up to Eididh nan Clach Geala was straightforward, but just when we thought we’d seen the last of them… there were more rocks near the summit! After reaching the summit, there is another highpoint a few yards further north and in between, a nice soft grassy piece of ground that looked ideal for camping, although I can’t testify to any rocks that might be just below the surface!

We reached the summit of Eididh nan Clach Geala at 11:15 and now we had a decision to make… continue on our planned route (the next 2km were my route, rather than WH – so there was some uncertainty) or return via the WH route for the Beinn Dearg round . I was keen to press on, so we decided to follow my route and then reassess when we reached the river just below the path leading out to Seana Bhràigh.

Looking west from Eididh nan Clach Geala with An Teallach in the distance.

Looking back towards Beinn Dearg from Eididh nan Clach Geala.

We reached the river sometime between 12:00 and 12:30, stopped for lunch and discussed our options. Rain was forecast for the afternoon (and thunder ) and given that I didn’t have a waterproof coat, it wasn’t a straight-forward decision. The other slow human had had enough by now and wasn’t keen to cover another 5 miles to include Seana Bhràigh (he’s not intending to do all of the Munros). Ted, bless him, had had enough as well and was taking the opportunity to sleep whenever we stopped for a minute 🥱😴. But I didn’t want to have to walk back out on a second trip, so the decision was made that I would take a much lighter pack, leaving the heavy stuff behind, and the other two would stay by the river (it was warm and sunny) and have a snooze for what I estimated would be about three and a half hours.

Looking north towards Seana Bhràigh.

So, I set off at 13:15 and headed off towards my final objective of the trip. The going was easy and very pleasurable compared to the previous four Munros. However, after an initially easy to follow path, I managed to lose the trail several times in boggy ground. Apart from that, the route was straight forward, with just one steepish section between about 800-900m (it probably wasn’t that steep but felt it after a hot day walking the day before and very little sleep).

After going over the 905m top, the route dips down about 50m, then climbs 70-80m up to the summit of Seana Bhràigh. There were some rocks near the top, but these were easily avoided .

I reached the summit at 15:15 (very good going for me), had a quick snack and turned around for the return trip.

Looking north-east from Seana Bhràigh.

The return route cuts across the hillside above some crags to rejoin the boggy ground where I’d lost the path earlier. About 15-30 minutes after leaving the summit, it started to rain – big heavy raindrops, followed by hailstones. Alone and without a waterproof coat, I was wishing I’d returned for it yesterday, but it wasn’t cold, so that was a bonus. Next came the thunder and due to the amount of rain and the fact that I hadn’t laminated the paper maps I’d printed, I didn’t want to get them out or the phone, for fear of getting it too wet, so I rushed on as fast as I could, trying to keep well to the left in order to avoid getting too close to the crags. I did have waterproof trousers with me, so put them on . Part way down, I saw another couple of walkers ahead (I hadn’t seen them at the summit, so not sure where they’d come from). I didn’t want to get too close to them as I was embarrassed to only be wearing a non-waterproof insulated jacket, that was already soaked , but as they appeared to be going my way, I (foolishly) followed the line they were taking! After about a kilometre, I felt something was wrong and decided to take my phone out to check, and sure enough, I was off course and the route down to the boggy area that I should have been in was now steep and slippery ). With little choice, I cut down the steep section and across the bog to join the path that I should have been on! That little detour cost me at least 30 minutes, probably more.

Once back on course, it was straightforward to get back to the river to join the others, although my feet got soaked as well crossing the boggy ground . Even though I had taken the survival bag with me on my solo jaunt, I decided to wait until I was back with the others before cutting it into a “rain mac”. Once back to the river, I changed into the only dry things I had - a t-shirt and waterproof socks (should have had them on earlier) and cut up the survival bag into a makeshift rain covering. The other human wasn’t intending to wear his insulated jacket on the return leg, so I put that on as well. After another rehydrated supper, we headed down the hill, at about 18:30.

The next 6km or so were easy going on a clear path . The following section from about 450m down to where the path joins the outward track (about 330m of descent), was steep, but the clear path made it a little easier. However, when we entered the forestry section, the rain returned with a vengeance and by the time we reached the outward track, it had seeped under my makeshift covering and I was soaked again (and not a little fed up). I was glad though, that I’d carried on the day before, because I felt that if I’d gone back for my coat, we might not have completed Cona’ Meall on the first day, the knock-on effect being that I would have made the decision not to do Seana Bhràigh and I would have had to climb the steep section, that I was now descending, and that prospect didn’t appeal at all!

Looking down towards the forestry track and the end of the trail!

Once back on the outward track, we put on as much speed as we could and “raced” back to the car park – poor Ted was fed up too and was lagging behind a little by the end. He’s not a dog that rushes off ahead when he’s on his own with us, and I had him on the lead a lot, so that we could pace him and he wouldn’t overdo things on his fist expedition, which worked well.

Irritatingly, the OS Maps app stopped tracking when we went through the gate into the forestry, about two miles before the end .

We arrived back at the van at about 22:00 and ironically, the only dry thing that was available to wear for the journey home was my waterproof coat!

Our route.

Until next time!