Moidart Traverse

[Gareth M]

I had the idea to try a linear walk across the hills of Moidart. On a map it seemed feasible to link Beinn Odhar Bheag and Beinn Mhic Cèdidh with the Rois-Bheinn Corbetts. Logistics were slightly complicated though by needing to drop my bike off at the end in Glen Moidart.

I reached a lay-by overlooking the Sound of Arisaig at midnight just in time for a red alert for the aurora. After the previous weekends light show I had high hopes for my spot looking north over the sea. I set my tripod up anchored on the dashboard, armrest, and passenger seat and took some photos. Despite the red alert I only got some pretty poor shots of a very faint aurora, but still mustn't grumble. I went to sleep in the driver’s seat with the camera still set up above me, just in case things got interesting. They didn't and I slept ok considering, but only for two or three hours which probably isn’t the best preparation for a big walk.

In the morning, I drove round to Glen Moidart and locked my bike to a tree near the end of the track I planned to descend the following morning. Then I drove right back round to the start just outside Glenfinnan for 6am.

Moidart .gpx Open full screen  NB: Walkhighlands is not responsible for the accuracy of gpx files in users posts

The walk starts by crossing the train tracks and a path heads out onto the hillside. Soon the path disappeared, and I was picking my own way up a grassy gully through the low cloud. Eventually I emerged from the cloud into the bright morning sun. No sooner than I had had chance to take a few photos the cloud suddenly rose. I was then back inside the cloud until, after a few hundred feet of climbing, I emerged once more. Then the same thing happened, the roof of the cloud shot up and engulfed me. I then continued to climb the grassy pathless terrain to hopefully pop out into the sunshine again. Eventually everything got brighter, and I was free of the cloud again.

Emerging from the gloom

Emerging from the gloom...again

Now in the sunshine I stumbled upon a strange battle as a beetle was trying to eat a moth (possibly Emperor) that was at least four times its size. I had to admire the cheek of the beetle but felt sorry for the moth as it flailed around beating its wings and shaking its body as fast as it could. I didn't stick around it see who won, I'd like to think the beetle gave up and it was a draw.

Big moth trying to shake off a small beetle (the black smudge)

I'd been climbing fairly fast to try and outrun the cloud and I continued to climb at pace fearing the cloud would accelerate up to the top. It didn't and I made it to the top of Beinn Odhar Mhòr with the cloud now far below. While a little hazy, the views were excellent, with most of my route stretched out before me poking out of the cloud.

Tiny deer and big views with Streap prominent in the background

Looking down from Beinn Odhar Mhòr in the direction of Glenfinnan

Big decent and even bigger ascent to Beinn Odhar Bheag

Beinn Odhar Bheag now required a large decent and reascent, but it was a pleasure to walk out above the clouds. More amazing hazy views awaited at the first Corbett of the day. Unfortunately, the cloud obscured any views to Loch Sheil, but I can't really moan about the loch being replaced with cloud. Once I'd had a bit of a rest and refuel, I headed steeply down to the bealach, and briefly into the cloud again, before climbing the steep pathless slope of Beinn Mhic Cèdidh. There were more brilliant views from the top again. I had a big break here as I knew I was going to be descending significantly so thought I'd give the clouds a chance to break.

Beinn Mhic Cèdidh

Druim Fiaclach looking impressive

The decent into the clouds, towards a large flat hanging valley, was steep pathless grass again. Here I popped out the bottom of the cloud for a bit. I collected some water from Allt Dubh Easain next to some big Roche Moutonnée. Then it was up again, in fact this whole walk was very up and down with lots of serious looking peaks that don't make the grade as Corbetts or Grahams. I skirted round one such peak, Dìollaid Mhòr, which was probably the only time I could avoid the full reascent of any of them.

Loosing enough height to drop out of the bottom of the cloud with a view down Glen Aladale

Making it up to the ridge to Druim Fiaclach was simple enough, all pathless and sometimes steep. The ridge was a delight, not too airy but just a great place to be as I emerged from the top of the cloud once again. There was one rocky knoll on the ridge that I decided to bypass to the south. It looked like you could scramble up, but with a big heavy bag I took the easier option, and re-joined the ridge a few hundred yards later. Then it was a short distance to the top of Druim Fiaclach. I had it in my head that this was the next Corbett, checking after it turns out it wasn't a Corbett at all, still a great mountain regardless.

From Druim Fiaclach the view opened out to include Rùm, Skye, and a great sweep of mountains inland. To the south was a big wall of cloud blocking the view which looked quite dramatic. The view on to An Stac and Rois-Bheinn looked very good above a layer of cloud. Once I'd spent a bit of time enjoying it, I continued along the broad ridge.

Looking up to a summit on the ridge to Druim Fiaclach that I bypassed to the left (south)

Looking back down the ridge to the east from Druim Fiaclach

The view west from Druim Fiaclach with my target for the day, Rois-Bheinn (left centre), looking a long way away

Didn't have the energy to include An Stac

Clouds bubbling up inland

Black Cuillin poking out

Rùm

All the ups and downs, along with lots of pathless walking earlier in the day, had me abandon plans of climbing An Stac. Perhaps if I hadn't left my bike in Glen Moidart I could have climbed it in the morning and left a shorter bike ride. However, I quite liked that the end was a long way from the start. I also like quiet pathless places, which is what the area to the south of Rois-Bheinn seemed to be.

Cloud clearing out with Eigg just visible top right

In the time walking between Druim Fiaclach and Sgùrr na Ba Glaise the wind picked up and started to blow the cloud from the sea over the ridge. It was almost like Glen Moidart beyond the ridge was a plug and the cloud just emptied into it and disappeared. In the space of an hour the cloud that had stuck around all day was all but gone. This was great as I knew I'd get to see the views over the sea from Rois-Bheinn.

View to Ben More (Mull) in the distance from somewhere near the top of Sgùrr na Ba Glaise

Rois-Bheinn with Eigg and Rùm out to sea

Beinn Mhic Cèdidh and Beinn Odhar Bheag now looked a long way away

Sgùrr Dhomhuill Mòr

Loch Ailort

When I'd finally plodded my way up Rois-Bheinn, I set the tent up just below the west summit with an amazing backdrop. I then ate and wondered around taking photos. After a good sunset the light gradually faded, as did I, it was definitely time for bed. I got much more sleep than the previous night in the car and set my alarm for just before sunrise.

An Stac with an amazing collection of rugged mountains behind

Rùm beyond the shinning sea

Sgùrr na Cìche and Garbh Chìoch Mhòr in the distance

Think that's Streap on the left and Gulvain on the right

Creach Bheinn and Maol Odhar with the Pap of Glencoe and Sgorr nam Fiannaidh in the background (I think)

Blà Bheinn

Definitely one of the best places I've camped

Fading light on An Stac

Eyes are drawn to Rùm

The sunset I'd hoped for

In the morning, I packed away in the twilight and then did the normal wonder around taking photos. There were some thin clouds blowing across the tops and the roof of the inversion was a bit higher than the previous morning. This made for some interesting views and a bit of a change from the night before.

Slightly different in the morning with Ben Nevis just visible through a thin cap of cloud

I think that was Sgùrr Dhomhuill Beag just poking out of the cloud

A golden sunrise looking to Rois-Bheinn

Eventually I made my way down, first heading for the peak of Sgùrr Dhomhuill Mòr. Going was pathless, but straightforward, with a steep pull up to the summit. I imagine this peak is seldom climbed, however, despite this, I think I remember it having a fairly large cairn. By this time the cloud had risen, and the views disappeared, I can only imagine they're normally pretty decent.

Looking into the upper reaches of Glen Moidart from the decent of Rois-Bheinn

After Sgùrr Dhomhuill Mòr it was a long walk through rough grass weaving through crags. This is made significant easier these days by always having a GPS in your pocket. It would be easy to lose your bearings in this terrain with the low cloud. Don't worry though traditionalists and fans of safety, I always have a paper map and compass. I then passed Loch Dearg and then onto the sprawling Loch nam Paitean. Here I reached the sluice where I joined the first proper track. This led steeply down into Glen Moidart and was sort of harder than all the rough pathless stuff I'd been over. It was very steep, with loose gravel, and I had a heavy bag encouraging me down. My technique for such terrain is the speed shuffle, which I deployed, and stayed upright.

Loch Dearg

Halfway down the track I met a heard of cows with calves. I kind of knew what would happen as soon as they panicked and jogged down the track. They went out of sight, then I rounded a corner and there they were. They'd then panic and jog off again. Despite me being nowhere near them I could see this happening all the way to the gate at the bottom where they'd be penned in. I tried a cheeky move, descending through trees and rhododendron, to cut the corner. As I emerged onto the track the last cow plodded down towards the gate, still in the lead. Luckily at the gate there was an escape for them to the right and I managed to escape myself through the gate. I was glad I didn't have to find a way around them so close to the end!

Now at the bike my weary legs had the prospect of a twenty mile bike ride ending on a climb up the Road to the Isles that I was sort of dreading because of the traffic. I attached a high vis to my bag, in an attempt to not get run over, and got underway. The low cloud made it a nice temperature and the quiet flat road down Glen Moidart was a good warm up.

I either rode a clown bike back to the car or that's a big tree in Glen Moidart

The road around Loch Moidart was also very nice with barely any cars and great scenery. After a short distance I reached a big hill over to Glenuig where I made it three quarters of the way up before some pushing. It was pretty hard going with a big bag weighing me down. But the cuckoos were cheering me on and there was a big decent down the other side! The next bit of the road was great riding with only small climbs and Loch Ailort for company to the left. There were quite a few bikes riding the other way now, I was jealous of their backs free of large bags. Eventually I spotted a bit by the Loch with large patches of thrift and decided to have a big rest. Once on my way again I was soon on the A830 which wasn't as busy as I'd feared and the climb not nearly as bad. It was worst nearest the end where there were some sharp bends and the road steepened. Apart from one driver, who felt the need to over take inches away on a bend with a car coming the other way, everyone was fairly courteous. Then, unexpectedly, I rounded a corner to see my car, I thought I still had a fair way to go. If there weren't some railway workers nearby, I would have hugged it.

One of many stops on the ride back to the car. Thrift on the shores of Loch Ailort

[litljortindan]

Stunning photos.

[Verylatestarter]

Gareth

Thanks for great report and fantastic photos. I did this route in April in almost opposite conditions - low cloud obscuring the peaks (esp. Rois Bheinn) so it's nice to see what they look like. A wonderful area with a feeling of remoteness; I saw nobody else in two days of walking, but with easy access to the main roads.

Not being a fan of camping I split the two groups of hills over two days and thus avoided the 400m deep Bealach in the middle. Your route is similar to that in 'The Big Walks' by Wilson and Gilbert but they left the ridge at Rois Bheinn, presumably to get the train, or hitch a lift, back to Glenfinnan. Another alternative would be to add An Stac and exit by the low bealach down to the coast as Mountainlove's WR.

Kind regards

John

[Bonzo]

Pretty much anyone of those photos would win a competition. Amazing report

[weaselmaster]

A great walk in beautiful conditions- and a great report. Haven’t done these hills with a big pack - they’re touch enough without that!

[Gareth M]

Stunning photos.

Pretty much anyone of those photos would win a competition. Amazing report

Thanks very much

[Gareth M]

Gareth

Thanks for great report and fantastic photos. I did this route in April in almost opposite conditions - low cloud obscuring the peaks (esp. Rois Bheinn) so it's nice to see what they look like. A wonderful area with a feeling of remoteness; I saw nobody else in two days of walking, but with easy access to the main roads.

Not being a fan of camping I split the two groups of hills over two days and thus avoided the 400m deep Bealach in the middle. Your route is similar to that in 'The Big Walks' by Wilson and Gilbert but they left the ridge at Rois Bheinn, presumably to get the train, or hitch a lift, back to Glenfinnan. Another alternative would be to add An Stac and exit by the low bealach down to the coast as Mountainlove's WR.

Kind regards

John

Thanks John, it's probably more sensible doing it in two day walks. Like you say the Bealach in the middle is very low, that was a big energy sapper. I was surprised not to see anyone on a nice weekend given how good the mountains are!

[Gareth M]

A great walk in beautiful conditions- and a great report. Haven’t done these hills with a big pack - they’re touch enough without that!

Thanks. They are tough hills. By the end of the first day I was suffering, there was more resting than walking. It's a nice place to suffer though!