North Morar 3

[go spazieren]

Bike route

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Hike route

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After Moruisg, I camped in Lochcarron with the intention of completing a longer bike-hike to include the three Munros just North of Loch Monar. I was up bright and early, had my traditional fry-up, packed the tent and headed to the car park at Craig arriving about 6:20am. Weather was a definite improvement on the previous day, cloud above the tops and brighter, although still overcast and pretty cold for June.
The cycle in was only 5.65km, a large part of which I pushed the bike up the steep incline, but I reckoned it was worth it to save tired legs on the return. I left the bike by the track near where the path marked as the Cape Wrath Trail on the Harvey map heads towards Beinn Tharsuinn and a wire bridge crosses the Allt a’ Chonais. The vehicle track was fine for cycling, a bit stoney here and there and a lot of climbing, but I managed to pedal in parts and covered the 5.6km in 45 minutes. A young chap had set off from Craig on foot just before me, we swapped the lead a couple of times but essentially he covered the same distance in just a few minutes more. He was moving fast though, doing the full round of Monar Munros and Corbetts. I met him later on Sgùrr a' Chaorachain, each of us having completed about 2/3 of our respective walks. His walk had already included Feartaig, Tharsuinn, Sheasgaich and Lurg Mor though! Impressive.
After leaving the bike, I continued up the track towards Glenuaig Lodge on foot, passing the watershed of the Pollan Buidhe where on the east side the River Meig flows eventually into the Cromarty Firth. The track would be very good for cycling as it is fairly level at this point and if only climbing Maoile Lunndaidh, or indeed doing Moruisg “the dry way”, pedalling in would certainly be worth it.

First glimpse of Maoile Lunndaidh

I followed the general route described in WH and also in my 1985 edition of the SMC Munros book, leaving the track a few hundred metres after the conifer plantation and before reaching Glenuaig Lodge.

Glenuaig Lodge in the distance

I didn’t see any path, just took a line to find a convenient crossing point of what I guess is the head waters of the River Meig, and then navigated amongst peat hags and rocks to cross the An Crom-allt at about the 380m contour. I then traversed East to cross the Allt an Fhuar-thuill Bhuig a little higher up before starting the direct climb onto the northern spur of Carn nam Fiaclan. There is about 400m of unrelenting ascent of steep grass and heather before the incline eases. I have to admit, this climb felt unusually hard and it briefly crossed my mind whether to just get to Maoile Lunndaidh and head back. Only briefly though, once the terrain levelled out and I could stretch my legs again, I got a move on and was feeling fine by the time I got to Carn nam Fiaclan.

Maoile Lunndaidh plateau

Maoile Lunndaidh is a big lump of a mountain, the top being plateau-like, but with two coires pinching in at Creag Toll a’Choin. The northern coire, Fuar-tholl Mor, is a particularly wild looking spot.

Fuar-tholl Mor - a wild and desolate place

The actual Munro summit of Maoile Lunndaidh seems to have moved to Creag Toll a’Choin since my Munro book was printed. The OS map has both summits at 1005m, my 2017 Harvey map still has the northern top at 1007m. Whatever, I made the short(ish) trek out to the northern top just to be on the safe side.

Other visitors to the north summit of Maoile Lunndaidh

The larger northern cairn on Maoile Lunndaidh

The smaller cairn on Creag Toll a Choin, Loch Monar in background

In retrospect, I think it would have been a better idea to use the descent route described in WH for the ascent. A bit more traversing over rough ground to reach the northern spur of Maoile Lunndaidh, but then a less steep climb (based on the map) and no need to retrace any of the route.
Having dealt with Maoile Lunndaidh it was now time get over to Bidean an Eoin Deirg. After returning to Carn nam Fiaclan, I continued west to descend the western spur into the bealach of Drochaid Mhuilich. There was a faint path initially, which became better defined as the ground steepened. This made progress down through the boulders a lot easier and it didn’t take long to drop down to the wide bealach at about 600m.

Bidean an Eoin Deirg to Sgùrr a' Chaorachain ridge, lochans of Drochaid Mhuilich below

It was then a case of traversing South East below some big black slabs to reach the North East ridge of Bidean an Eoin Deirg. This is noted as a Grade 1/2 scramble in the SMC scrambles book but is little more than a walk. Steep and bouldery, with some outcrops but you could probably climb it without putting hand on rock. One thing that wasn’t so nice was the boulders spalling off the spine of the ridge, especially near the top. Considerable care was needed to avoid dislodging big chunks of rock. Erosion in action. The summit cairn of Bidean an Eoin Deirg is perched right at the top of the ridge.
From Bidean an Eoin Deirg it is a pleasant ridge walk to Sgùrr a' Chaorachain and then on to Sgùrr Chòinnich.

Summit cairn on Sgùrr a' Chaorachain, looking back to Bidean an Eoin Deirg

Next destination Sgùrr Chòinnich on right, Lurg Mor and Bidean a Choire Sheasgaich in background

Summit cairn on Sgùrr Chòinnich, looking west

Bidean a Choire Sheasgaich, a fine shapely peak

The ridge never drops below about 860m, and there is a clear path. The climbs are quite steep but short thankfully. I met a few walkers on the ridge between the two Munros travelling in a West to East direction.
From Sgùrr Chòinnich I continued west, just reversing the route described in WH with a path all the way. The path takes a bit of a round about route at the Bealach Bhearnais but does find the easiest line around bogs and crags before meeting a more well-trodden path down to the wire bridge.

Made it across without mishap!

The wire bridge provided some brief excitement, it’s been a while since I’ve used one of these, but I got across safe and sound. Unless in spate, it would be an easy river to wade if you didn’t fancy the trapeze act.
And so back to the bike. After a short section of pedalling, I took advantage of gravity and completed the cycling return in 25 minutes or so, back at Craig just before 4pm. A moderately hard but enjoyable day once I reached Maoile Lunndaidh and got my second wind.