Basecamp Benalder Cottage Day 1 (the walk-in)

[The English Alpinist]

On Sgor Choinnich, Munro top (929m), looking north to Ben Alder.

8 Munros, 6 tops, and a Corbett are hoped for from Wednesday 19th to Saturday 22nd June 2024.

Corrour 3:30 p.m. Ben Alder Cottage 10:30 p.m. via the tops.

Sooner or later, all we would-be Munroists have to venture to those parts which are not so easy to reach, and either camp or cycle or... bothy. It was time I tackled one of these areas. On taking some excellent advice from WH users on various bothies, I settled on the remote and renowned (possibly even haunted!) Benalder Cottage, thinking it unlikely to be oversubscribed. I had wanted to use Culra bothy too, but it happened to be 'closed for asbestos', so that was out. It would mean some longer walks if I was to get my 8 Munro compleation for this area, but a blessing in disguise was perhaps that I would be based there and could leave the heavy pack behind each day. The train got me in to Corrour at 3:30 p.m., after one connection at Glasgow Queen Street and an 8 a.m. start from Lancaster, England. This would leave just enough to time to walk over the tops, taking in two Munros, to arrive at the cottage by nightfall. The weather was idyllic so far, and I was the only soul venturing out from the 'station', although I encountered several folk coming the opposite way before I climbed into the mountains. Then I had it all to myself, and the views were superb.

Walking begins here!

Easy stuff to Loch Ossian to begin.

I shall take the high road, so to speak, to Carn Dearg.

Good ground to Carn Dearg.

Carn Dearg, 3,087 feet (941m), it's a good start.

In the Bealach Mam Ban to next Munro, Sgor Gaibhre.

On Sgor Gaibhre 3,133 feet (955m), looking east to Loch Ericht.

On Sgor Gaibhre, with Ben Alder in the background to the northeast.

Stupidly, I managed to lose all my paper maps for the whole 4 days, soon after Carn Dearg. These were photocopies sealed inside a plastic sleeve, which was rolled up like a tube sticking a quarter out of my back pocket - until it wasn't. Gone! Gone to the wind. Apologies for littering the landscape, but there's an element of fascination in wondering where and when and by whom (this century?) they will be found.This was unsettling if not a disaster, because thankfully I did have enough sense to have them all on my phone as good images. I would just have make sure I had enough battery each day, for which end I was carrying a little Halfords car battery charger out there with me, which I have found can also be used to recharge my phone fully (but only once).

After both Munros and the Munro top was done, I had to decide between going for the one Corbett of the area - Coire nan Giornach - or pressing straight on to the end of the ridge, and coming down from there to the bothy. That's what I chose, not fancying re-trekking over Sgor Gaibhre, and also suspicious of what lousy swamp I might meet getting down to Ericht from that direction. The end of the range is Beinn a Chumhainn anyway; a 'demoted' Corbett, I was later told, and something McNeish (whose guidebook I still half trust) extols highly for its great view into the Aonach Beag and Ben Alder massif. He's right about that!

Sgor Choinnich ahead, with the Aonach Beag ridge and western ridge of Ben Alder in view.

On Sgor Choinnich, a top at 929m, looking back to its parent Munro Sgor Gaibhre.

I press on north to Beinn a Chumhainn, 2,998 feet, 'demoted Corbett'.

On Beinn a' Chumhainn; offers a great view of Ben Alder and much more.

There's a 'cottage' down there in that bay.

A Beinn a' Chumhainn toad.

After enjoying my perch on Beinn a Chumainn for a while, I descended off it into the bealach of the same name which leads easily down to the delightful (yes I mean that!) Benalder Cottage in its sequestered bay by the great Loch Ericht. No ghosts there as far as I could see or sense, but just a lovely feeling of tranquillity broken only by the soft gush of the burn - but I did find four gents, also having arrived that evening and by coincidence staying for the same 3 nights as me. They were a touch more senior in years than my 56 even - just a touch, guys! - which encourages me in being out there. Furthermore, nice fellows - Roger, David, Mac and Keith - you can't know who or what you'll meet in a bothy until you get there. So, the scene was set. It was five men good and true - Englishmen at that - striking at the very heart of the Scottish Highlands.

This walk is followed by 'Basecamp Benalder Cottage Day 2 (the Aonach ridge)
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=125064

Lo, Ben Alder Cottage, by the shores of Loch Ericht.

I'm there at 10.30 p.m., to find 4 occupants on this pleasant Wednesday eve in June.