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There was a time when Alfie would have scoffed at the distance and happily ran along side. But that was also when he shunned the Corbett’s. He’s not as haughty with his hills now and things are not as they were. So, this hill - Càrn Bàn, Alfie’s penultimate Corbett, took a bit of thinking.
As the Munros ran out, we discussed and agreed that the Corbett’s seemed feasible in the given timescale (Alfie’s). He did set some ground rules and right up there was ‘no bike’. I tried to negotiate but it seemed an easy give at the time. I did suggest he could ride along in a trailer – but he felt that wasn’t in the spirit of things.
We had been all the way to Glencalvie before to walk Carn Chuinneag in 2022, but our Corbett planning was in the early stages then and had no idea this hill was even best from here. Alfie laid the blame quite fairly with me. He’s responsible for motivation and enthusiasm, while planning and logistics are mine. Mostly I deal with navigation and he does the route finding but this is more flexible. Sometimes we need someone else to blame.
Given no bike, Alfie approaching his 12th year and the Fred Whitton a few days away, we decided to break it into 3 half days of walking. From WH (and weaselmaster), I was aware the bothy at Glenbeg was usable. Alfie had never stayed in a bothy before (he prefers a tent, having a very sensitive sense of smell and ingrained stranger danger). I explained the bothy was very remote and likely would be all ours, and we would have a tent if needed. So, we agreed and set a route from Glencalvie up into Gleann Mor, then taking the right track at 4 Km over An Socach for an overnight camp on Càrn Bàn. Down the next day for an overnight at the bothy before the walk out.
We drove up with a dangerous stop at Tiso’s in Perth en route. Decided as we were now bothying, it was time for an aeropress. And a few other unnecessary essentials. Alfie wanted his stop too, so Birnam woods for a lovely loop over King’s Seat. This settled Alfie for the long drive.
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- Alfie on the top of King's Seat, stop off walk on the way to Glencalvie
Parked up at Glencalvie early enough to do a quick recce on the bike leaving Alfie to rest. Croick church has sad memories, the waterfalls further downstream looked excellent for a swim, even had a small parking space. But the hills at the 4 Km gate didn’t look inspiring – barren compared to the beautiful river and forest below. The info board below Alladale Lodge caused me some mental distress. There was a point around Bodach Mor marked ‘Two Ocean View’ that wasn’t on the planned route. I thought this might be a ‘one and only’ and had to be included. Tried to ask Google if it was unique, but no reply.
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- The estate info board with the map showing the 'Two Oceans View' point
Returned to Alfie a bit perturbed. Drew lots of lines across OS maps on apps and decided it was a must. It definitely looked like the narrowest point on mainland Britain to me. Alfie enquired if there was any other info on the board we should consider. I explained the excellent opportunities that were run for school kids on the estate, that there was no mention of wolves yet, and that the Bear Gryll’s survival academy is based here. Alfie’s eyes lit up. Now I never knew, but seems he’s a big fan. I asked if he appreciated my skills in the same way. He didn’t respond but I could see a condescending smirk on his lips. It hurt. But the route now seemed clear. A walk up past the lodge (Alfie was sure Bear would entertain him), up along the Alladale river and over the back of Bodach Mor for a camp. Then complete the walk as planned. The weather prediction seemed to favour this, with the worst of the weather forecast for the final day.
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- Supplies successfully delivered to enhance the overnight bothy experience
I set off early next morning to bike up and check out the bothy, take some wood and other essentials I didn’t want to carry round. Alfie was happy to have a long lie. Easy track most of the way, last 2.5 Km on foot. Met a few folk from HOWL with a school group around Deanick Lodge. Amazing opportunity and lovely work. Decided to go the same way back. There is a track marked on the map on the north side of the river at the middle bridge, but I was lidless and didn’t have time for poor route choices. Alfie was not at all ready when I got back. (The bothy bike loop is an additional 40 Km - about 5 Km on foot)
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- Alfie enjoying his long lie. Failed to be ready on my return and definitely on my side!
Packed up, had lunch and set off at 1pm. Lovely walk along the river reminding me very much of Glen Affric. Alfie struggled over the difficult ladder to the falls. I said we had seen and swum in them on our previous visit, but he insisted. Continuing on the way he kept darting down to the river for swims and photos. He does love any opportunity to pose, a tendency he blames squarely on Pavlov. Near the lodge, he tried to make a break for it and hunt down Bear. I explained an excitable dog would likely be greeted with a shotgun, and Bear was certainly away being filmed in a jungle.
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- Alfie struggling to get over the fence ladder to the falls
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- Alfie enjoying the view of the falls again. Advised him it was unwise to jump in form here
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- Taking every opportunity to have a swim and photos taken
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- Alfie's clear disappointment at missing Bear at the lodge
His disappointment evaporated with the views and he was soon asking why the pace was so slow. I explained I was carrying everything for the 2 of us and could he at least take his own collar. He nosed the air and walked away (surely his sign for giving the bird). Unbelievable, so silently cancelled the next treat stop.
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- View along the Alladale River
A good track runs all the way to the end of the Glen. Stopped for a drink and Alfie’s dinner at the burn crossing. Didn’t carry any water up as the map showed a water source high up, saved a bit of weight. MTV tracks intermittently on a gentle slope for quick progress. Left the big pack for short descent to refill with lovely clear water. Beautiful views emerging as we gained height – especially to the west. Stopped a few times to look at the Two Ocean View.
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- The climb was rewarded by the views, could see the 2 Oceans but the views to the West were special
Alfie was more interested in rolling on any soft flat areas to demo how suitable they would be for the overnight camp, but was overruled as they came with no view. Distinct mutterings about not caring. Found a perfect spot just West of the summit of Bodach Mor. Alfie supervised while I got the tent and bedding sorted, and once in his PJ’s, he dashed to bed.
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- Tent up, Alfie PJ'd and ready for bed
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- Alfie tucked up in bed
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- View form the tent which Alfie would have happily done without
The setting sun and the island hills of Assynt drew me out to look over the steep drop to the West. I was surprised to find that Alfie had joined me – suspected he wanted to photo pose some more, so I obliged. Clouds rolled over the hills further on – which was lovely to watch and not be in. Watched the changing light from the tent as we drifted off.
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- Beautiful light effects and sunset kept my attention
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- And even drew Alfie back out of the tent for more photos
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- Alfie posing beside the steep drop-off West of Bodoch Mor
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- And the clouds rolling over the hills
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- Drifted off watching the sun setting behind the Island Mountains of Assynt
Bright very early so upped and readied under Alfie’s watchful eye. He lapped up his breakfast and still seemed thirsty. By the time this was quenched, there was no water left for my aeropress coffee. Felt cheated. Set off for the summit over a couple of small blips with lovely views and cloud formations.
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- Alfie hogging all the morning coffee water
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- And keeping a close eye that I had counted all the pegs
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- The way round to Carn Ban - Alfie checking for the best route
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- Clouds that looked like UFO's
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- And the view South down Loch Vaich
Found a little stream tumbling over a cliff and we filled up. Alfie made a beeline for a patch of snow for a roll – raced him sliding down for a bit of fun. Great views looking back to our overnight camp. Onto the flat top of Càrn Bàn, which would also make a great camping spot. Stopped for the summit shot and moved on.
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- Filling up with water, told him not to step back for the photo
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- Alfie racing for the snow patch for a roll
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- Looking back, circle for campsite, square the drink stop
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- What Alfie came for. The summit of Càrn Bàn
Couple of easy Kilometres before a steeper decent to the little loch for lunch. Found the track and went down the zigzags. Alfie enquired about the bothy’s location and I explained it was to the West round the corner. He clearly didn’t understand why we were following a path heading East, and very soon he changed direction. I protested that any short cut meant we would miss the waterfalls, but for once he didn’t care about posing. The path he had found petered out and was surely only for goats. Anyway, we were committed and I had to agree it was shorter. He disappeared off among the boulders, to reappeared gnawing away at some spent antlers. The distraction stopped him harassing me to hurry over rough ground with a big pack.
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- Lunch stop by Loch Sruban Mora and a chance for Alfie to freshen up
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- Alfie's goat path petered out into big boulders to cross, his ears are a great weather vane
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- Happily gnawing away at the deer antlers
Found the left supplies safely at the bothy. Got the fire going, removed boots and settled into the beer. Alfie seemed happier outside with his prised antlers until the fire pulled him in. We had a quiet period, I played with the fire while Alfie reflected on his life’s achievements.
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- Alfie still chomping away in front of the bothy
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- Finding a cosy spot to dry out and reflect
Unfortunately, Alfie soon perked and suggest we walk up to the falls behind the bothy as we’d missed the ones earlier. I could take some photos. I explained that my boots were off and my feet were sore – but he said I knew nothing of sore feet and it was surely only a flip-flop walk. No point resisting. Steep decent to the falls was not flip-flop compatible so off they went. Alfie enjoyed a swim and shower, I behaved like paparazzi . He then suggested that if I really want to be like Bear, that after him, I should do all the Munros in flip-flops. I said that was hugely irresponsible and Bear would never do a foolish thing like this. Was clear he thought me a disappointment.
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- Flip-flop walk to the falls
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- Until the descent to the falls was too steep and slippery - flip-flops off
Bothy was very cosy overnight, lit lots of candles and used all my wood. Beer helped for a good night’s sleep. Quick tidy in the morning and a message in the bothy book. Outside it was low cloud and drizzle as predicted, so got fully gored up and started out. Dizzle lifted and became warm. Alfie had to endure a stop while I got rid of layers. He’s really never understood the need for all the faffing.
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- View looking East down Gleann Beag and the route out.
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- Alfie relaxing and rewarming after the waterfall shower
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- Snuggled up for bed - seemed to enjoy his bothy experience
Rest of the walk was surprisingly nice, took the path north of the river this time and was glad I hadn’t biked it. Stopped for a secluded swim once the river was big enough. Final few kilometres through the beautiful trees and back to Glencalvie. Alfie must have been tiring, stayed to the path all the way. Found the Amazon man doing a delivery as we arrived back at the van, the wilderness is definitely changing.
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- Joined Alfie for a swim and clean up
Headed down with the van to the falls I’d seen on the bike recce. The day was still warm and sunny and just ideal for a longer swim and scramble around. As we packed up, large raindrops started to fall, an ideal ending to a 3 day outing. Alfie didn’t stir during the drive home.
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- Final swim at the falls on the River Carron below East Amat
