Basecamp Benalder Cottage Day 3 (Ben Alder)

[The English Alpinist]

Loch a Bealach Beithe & Beinn Bheoil from high on Ben Alder.

The route-standard, more or less, for the pair from Benalder Cottage.

This was was preceded by 'Basecamp Benalder Cottage Day 2' (the Aonach ridge)
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=125064

I had written off the idea of walking today. My 'plan' was to stay esconced in the bothy all day, nursing myself from yesterday's epic, the damp and murky forecast giving a further excuse, and saving myself for the big effort over the two Munros and out to Dalwhinnie tomorrow. That would have required a stupid o-clock start - like 3 a.m. - to be able to reach my train in time, and with heavy pack. By late morning, the other 4 tenants had decided to venture out to do the 'demoted Corbett' of Beinn a' Chumhainn, and I found this inspired me to also not sit around. Beinn Bheoil and Ben Alder were 'only' a short-distance walk (6 hours-ish), with high bealach in between. I'd get it done now - now - and have a nice easy exit day tomorrow! I found I could walk okay, surprised by how simply laying down all night without much sleep can recharge muscles, and it was just a matter of a damp slog up there and into the mist to reach my first mountain. I found the Sron Coire nah-lolaire cairn after a few minutes nervy meandering, and arrived at Bheinn Bheoil proper via the narrow ridge, easily enough if spookily.

I found getting off it less easy. Following the compass heading, I found the ground began to descend far too steeply and strangely compared with the way I'd come up. 'Trust the compass' I tried to tell myself, but this was clearly all wrong; disappearing horribly into the void below. I knew the worst thing to do would be to start wild guessing, even though in one's anxiousness and tiredness to get out of there that is exactly the instinct. The only thing for it was to climb a quarter an hour back to the summit cairn, which hopefully would be obvious enough; just go 'up'! From there I would at least be 100% sure where I was and could try again. I figured out what I'd done; I'd carelessly processed SE as my direction back onto the ridge, instead of SW which I needed. Concentrate! SW a few metres at a time, don't deviate, how difficult could this be?! Yet somehow I lost it again, being tempted by steepening ground, whereas there isn't actually much descent at all to meet the thin ridge between Bheoil and Sron Choire. This time, however, I backtracked and hit upon signs of the path without having to return to the summit. I was considering taking the obvious, but out of my way, descent via the north ridge to Culra just to get out of there if I couldn't solve this, but happily I did, so it was game on for Ben Alder now. I took no chances with finding the bealach after that; revisiting the Sron Coire nah-lolaire cairn and just taking a direct bearing down from there knowing the contours were mild.

Sron Coire nah-lolaire, Munro top (955m), looked like this.

Beinn Bheoil, Munro proper 3,343 feet (1019m), looked like this.

I did a lot of this, not always competently. Concentrate man!

Okay, stress (mostly) over; Ericht is in the right place and the Bealach is to the right where it should be.

My 3 attempts to get off Beinn Bheoil.

It is almost worth the stress of mist for that wonderful moment when you emerge out of it to see you are not actually at the end of the world, but only in a spectacular and remote wilderness. My spirits lifted even more down at the Bealach Breabag, as Ben Alder's clouds also showed possible signs of doing so. The way up was obvious if steep initially, and a reassuring cairn is reached once up there on the plateau, but hey I had visibility by now anyway. I would say I was something closer to 'inspired' as I rounded the great rim to Ben Alder summit, with its grandioise views and intermittent cloud adding drama rather than fear. I enjoyed a quarter of an hour stay up there, with no fellow visitors at all, in contrast to yesterday where my housemates told me there had been quite a few. So happy I was now - this was my Munro 'compleation' of 8 for the trip - that I even contemplated going down by the famed Long Leacach for the hell of it, and giving myself a round trip on the good paths of Dubh and Chumhainn to get back. It was probably a good idea that I didn't. I was more weary of mind and muscle than I realised. Another small error had me erring further over to the left than I wanted to be on the steep return to the bealach, but fortunately not onto the really perilous stuff. It was now just a matter of a safe descent through the sludge to get home; home being the 'haunted' cottage (yeah, sure).

Now for Ben Alder, up there in that.

At the top of the bealach, signs the clouds are beginning to break, as I prepare for the initial steep ascent.

Up on the ridge, the great sweep to the summit in reassuring visibility.

Loch a' Bhealaich Bheithe down there, with the contemplated north descent of Bheoil beyond.

Ben Alder, 3,766 feet (1148m), 25th highest Munro. Number 8 of this trip. Pleased.

The walk down from the bealach was, as expected, pretty horrid. It was the steepness of it with already-tender toes being shoved forwards, the relentless wetness, lack of a quality path but moreover the accumulation of aches from the previous day. Apart from this, my standout memory of this descent was on approaching the cottage. I noted the homely sight and smell of woodsmoke emanating copiously from the right chimney from where I looked. My first thought was this must be from the private section, and a visiting estate person. This was because my four fellow guests had already told me they'd had no firewood to get a fire started, so I assumed that was still the case. There's a fireplace, I've since learned, in the main 'dorm' as well as the kitchen area where I'd enjoyed my own fire. I never thought to ask my companions, or to look, whether they'd managed to get one started after all. I completely assumed we had a 'neighbour', although I never saw or heard one. This niggles me now. I wish I'd asked or bothered to check (I was so tired I didn't care at the time). I hasten to add - it only 'niggles' me, I'm not seriously suggesting anything!!! But if any of you 4 fellows happen to read this, do tell me if you got a fire started. Of course, you did, didn't you?

Looking northeast: the Long Leacach tempts (a bit), Loch Ericht & Dalwhinnie out there.

View of Loch a' Bealach Bheithe & Beinn Bheoil as I head back the same way.

Another look at the various options I gave myself.

This walk is followed by 'Basecamp Benalder Cottage Day 4 (exit-walk)'
https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=125108

[HalfManHalfTitanium]

I'm enjoying these episodes from your Ben Alder expedition! I am currently out of action due to knee problems, but am still enjoying vicarious adventures posted on the website. Virtual hillwalks are my new normal.

I liked this - "It is almost worth the stress of mist for that wonderful moment when you emerge out of it to see you are not actually at the end of the world, but only in a spectacular and remote wilderness." - I think everyone who reads it will know that feeling.

I've only stayed at one bothy (Shenavall) although I've had a look round many in the course of my wanderings over the years. I think every lonely dwelling in the wilderness probably heightens our sense of the unfamiliar. Combined with tiredness, it leads to the many 'haunted bothy' stories that circulate.

The only time I can remember such a feeling was on a very long walk from Conwy to Llanberis pass via all the main summits and fitting in as much scrambling as I could. My last peak was Lliwedd, and as I descended it I thought I saw a huge snowy owl sitting on a rock. I took a few steps forward, but the owl just sat there, staring me down and daring me to approach. I got right up to it before I realised that it was a quartz outcrop that looked nothing like an owl.

Looking forward to episode 4.

Tim

[The English Alpinist]

I hope your knee recovers, Tim, and you can get out there before long. I do appreciate your feedback and it's good to know I'm preaching to the converted! You're right about the psychological effects of all that wilderness and exertion of course - probably!

[RayK]

Another great trip report(s) - really good read. Like HalfManHalfTitanium I've been resting up with a knee injury but hoping to visit the Lake District again very soon, very much enjoy walking there. Like the way there is a pub at the end of every walk. Did have a shufty at some of your winter trip reports - great stuff. You do know though If you keep on doing all of these big days you will kill your knees as well

[The English Alpinist]

You do know though If you keep on doing all of these big days you will kill your knees as well

That thought often crosses my mind yes
So far I'm ok (56 and counting, age that is), I've not had knee trouble since I was 28, doing mad marathon training, but I certainly feel the strain especially downhill! My weakness these days is the calves and achilles, where something tends to go pop if I attempt serious running training, but fortunately not walkiing on the hills - yet! I would not have the confidence to go up alone, unless I can jog 10k without issue.
All the best in your rehab, and sometimes I think who really needs the Scottish hills when we have the English lakes!?