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The plan that fell apartThis day was, to be best described, a very successful failure. I had taken up the 06:40 Citylink from Glasgow in hopes of doing the two Aonachs from the Nevis resort. Research on the Citylink site the year before had shown me that the Skye bus stopped at the road end for the ski centre, google map agreeing with such. What I had failed to fully notice, though, was that that was no longer the case by this date. Despite the stop no longer showing on the booking, I assumed it was just a fluke as I had come across a similar issue for the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar, where the bus had still stopped for me. I ended up booking Torlundy as a result.
My plan was brave from the start. It involved walking all the way along the road to the resort carpark and taking the walker path (doubling as a BMX track) all the way up Aonach Mor, a real bagger-by-bus mission. The timings were tight, and the Gondola was off the cards - mainly to save me money. Regardless, it all fell apart soon enough when the bus reached Torlundy and the driver told me it was not stopping for the ski centre, throwing away all the timings I had planned. I got off there and began considering my options. This was hastened when another coach heading for Glasgow was soon able to pick me up.
Travelling back south, I was still determined to fit some sort of hike in for the day. Options ranged from redos like Ben More or Beinn Dorain, to attempting to meet the Glasgow Uni Mountaineering folk that were staying at Clashgour. Ultimately, I saw that I had time to attempt Beinn Dubhchraig and Ben Oss, the two Tyndrum hills I had not yet done. And so I had a new plan for the day.
An uphill battle
- The Crianlarich hills, from the West Highland Way
Around half past noon I was dropped at Tyndrum, where I ate and refreshed before setting off down the West Highland Way towards Dalrigh. Morale was not high, I had spent over four hours on the bus, added with waiting around in Fort William twice. Nevertheless the weather was good, and walking toward the views of the Crianlarich hills was refreshing.
- Ben Lui, and the Oban railway line
It took not long over half an hour to reach the path from Dalrigh, and I continued up towards Beinn Dubhchraig, the paths getting boggier and steeper. My afternoon start meant that the many walkers up there were all going down as I passed them. The day's mood lightened up when I got to the ridge for Beinn Dubhchraig, and was rewarded with the views around. It wasn't long before I made it to the Beinn Dubhchraig summit at about 15:30. Views extended towards all the hills around Loch Lomond, Crianlarich, Tyndrum, Loch Awe, and beyond.
- The Beinn Dubhchraig summit
- Tyndrum and Mamlorn, from Beinn Dubhchraig
The day fufilled
- A lake halfway up Ben Oss
Keen to not waste too much time, I continued on towards Ben Oss. Snow conditions were on the melting side, but there was more of it than not as I ascended the north-east end of the munro, straying from the path about halfway up the ascent. Regardless, I reached the summit about 16:38, having another break to admire the views. Besides Ben Lui, which I had done at the start of the month, dominating the sights, I was also surprised to spot the buildings of Glasgow shining in the distance. The day had truly been recovered, and with the hills now to myself I had the last drops of my Jura whisky to celebrate.
- The Ben Oss summit
- Glasgow in the far distance, from Ben Oss
- Filip Mikulec once camped there
I hastely made my way back down towards Dalrigh, wasting no time as the daylight was coming to a close. By the time I was back on the West Highland Way, the sun had fully set, and the light was rapidly going. The gradual darkening, though, meant that my eyes were adjusted when full night had fallen, and so I lazily did not get out my headtorch and walked the last five minutes into Tyndrum in darkness. Ending off around 19:20, I got a celebratory chips and curry at the Real Food Cafe before getting the bus back.
- Descending from Ben Oss
- The night's sky at Tyndrum